JD VIP Buyers Club
JD on Facebook
JamestownTV
JD Points Program
Request A Free Catalog

Boatlife Caulking Teak Deck Seams


Caulking Teak Deck Seams

You have all seen gorgeous teak decks with perfect black seams. Those seams all have one thing in common. They were caulked with a highquality marine grade sealant. The most widely accepted brands of deck sealants are BoatLIFE Life-Calk, and Teak Deck Sealant. Life-Calk comes in two types. The popular one-part which is available in the familiar yellow tubes and cartridges and the professional's choice for teak deck work: Life-Calk Two-Part Type P (pourable). The two-part is a fast* curing (24-48 hours), tough and resilient seam compound that will deliver years of leak free and aesthetic service. Teak Deck Sealant is available in cartridges.

It is a do-it-yourself job that can be accomplished with beautiful results.

1. Proper preparation is critical to obtain professional results. Your seams must be perfectly cleaned and prepared prior to mixing and/or filling the material.
To prepare the seam properly, first remove all the old caulking. For this we offer an electric Hot Knife which slices and removes caulking from seams. Another tool is a bent screwdriver that has been filed down to a point, much like a can opener. It should be bent to a 90Deg angle.
After the material has been thoroughly removed it is wise to rout out the seam to provide a clean fresh edge. This step may or may not be necessary depending on how well the old caulking came out. (If you discover you have a "V" type of seam we recommend you square them off with a router. For new construction sometimes routing is needed to provide the seam. At times teak strips are laid over plywood, fiberglass, or steel at regular intervals which automatically provide the seam because 1/8" or 1/4" gap is calculated between the strips.

2. Minimum joint size excluding the bondbreaker (we'll explain later) is 1/8" wide by 1/4" deep. Bondbreaker or caulking cotton must be used to line the bottom of the seam.
Reason: adhesion should not be achieved on three sides. The bottom should be able to "ride" along the base of the seam with the deck as it flexes and works. The caulking should ride much like a rubber band would.
Allow for Bondbreaker in calculating your seam size. If however, you are laying or recaulking a cosmetic deck (a deck laid over existing fiberglass deck), use a thin piece of paper as a bond breaker.

3. After cleaning and routing, the seams must be washed out with a good oil free solvent. Life-Calk Solvent and Cleaner is excellent for this purpose. This process will dry up any surface oil from the end grain of the exposed teak.

4. When using one-part Life-Calk you must prime the seams first with Life-Calk Primer. This will seal the end grain from any escaping oil that will impede adhesion.
It is important that you use ONLY Life-Calk Primer for this application. Do not use a paint product such as red lead. These products are laden with oils that will produce the opposite results you are expecting and the Life-Calk will not stick to the teak. However, if you are using the Life- Calk Two-Part Type P or Teak Deck Sealant, primer is not needed as the primer is built into the product.

5. The next step is to put in the bondbreaker. BoatLIFE Bondbreaker is sold in 50-yard packs and is available at most marine stores. It is generally forced into place with a chisel, screwdriver or an old fashioned caulking iron.
Next is choosing whether to mask the seams with masking tape. It is a tedious task but will eliminate the need to sand your deck after the caulking cures. If you mask it, it is important to get the tape right to the very edge of the seam but not go down into it. If you are not careful the tape will be caulked over and when removed, the tape will rip out the sealant covering it. Just run the tape over all the deck surfaces getting it good and flat.
Now you are ready to apply the caulking. If using the Life-Calk Two-Part, you will be mixing two components together for at least two minutes.
Afterwards the mixture will be poured into empty cartridges. We recommend using the quart can kit. You will get about 2 1/2 cartridges. The mixing is a critical step. We recommend you turn the can upside down and cut out the bottom of the can with a can opener. This will assure that the catalyst will not collect under the lip of the can when mixing. Make sure you get a good top to bottom mix. We recommend the material be mixed by hand. Do not use a high-speed drill as it will whip air into the caulking and create bubbles.

6. After the product is thoroughly mixed, squeeze the can to form a spout. Fill the cartridges 2/3 full and insert the plastic plunger provided with the empty cartridge.
You are now ready to apply the material. It is a good idea to keep the other two cartridges out of the sun and in a cool place. This will slow down the already active curing process. Do not waste any time because the material is starting to cure as soon as the two components are mixed.
Cut the tip of the nozzle, puncture the inner seal, or cut tip of cartridge, place the nozzle at the bottom of the seam and push the gun away from you along the base of the seam slowly while squeezing the trigger.
Do not pull or draw the gun towards you. By pushing the gun away from you, you are forcing the material into the seam. If you pull the gun toward you, you will trap air and produce air bubbles in the seam. Next take a spatula or putty knife and smooth out the seam against the tape.
Remove the tape immediately. The result is a perfectly caulked seam.

7. If sanding is needed, allow the material to cure first. Life-Calk Two-Part should be ready for sanding in 2-3 days; Teak Deck Sealant will be ready for sanding in 24* hours. Life-Calk One-Part curing will depend on the temperature and humidity and may be as long as 7 days or more. When sanding, sand with the grain and do not use an oscillating type of sander as it will tear the material loose. Do not walk on the freshly completed seams until they are fully cured.

8. Now treat your seams right. Don't clean the deck with two part liquids and don't coat your teak with fancy teak treatments that can attack the caulking. Use Teak Brite Powder Cleaner and Teak Brite Teak Oil. They are the ones you can rely on for teak care. You'll love your teak...your gorgeous teak deck.


The Proper Seam
The recommended ideal seam is 1/8"W x 1/4"D
Correct joint configurations

No


No


No


Yes



ESTIMATING GUIDE FOR SEALANT COVERAGE

Each cartridge of BoatLIFE Sealant will yield the following lineal foot of seam:

WIDTH
D
E
P
T
H
Seam Size1/8"1/4"3/8"1/2"
1/4"57281814
3/8"371812.59.5
1/2"28149.57

Note: All curing times subject to atmospheric conditions.



Related Boatlife How-To Topics:

  • How to care for teak
  • Caulking teak deck seams
  • How to use wet wood epoxy
  • How to use "GIT"-ROT
  • Tips for Life-Calk & Release
  • Tips for Fiberglass Cleaner
  • Tips for TeakBrite

  • To learn more about Boatlife Products please visit


    JD on Facebook Live Tech Support JD Customer Photo Gallery Free Catalog