Epifanes Varnish FAQ

Varnish Questions & Answers by Epifanes

What is the best way to remove old finish?

There is no right way or wrong way to strip varnish. Whatever works for you, is the best way. Our recommendations are based on our own experiences and preferences. First, begin with a good (6 or more. You can't have too many) selection of scrapers. Go nuts, experiment with a variety of styles, brands, and shapes. These should be treated as tools. That is what they are. Learn how to sharpen them. We cannot emphasize enough the value of a sharp scraper. Books should be written on this subject. If you want to know more, ask us. Next, experiment with stripping methods. There are a vast number of chemicals out there to choose from. We do not use chemicals. We have tried most of them and have always returned to a heat (hot air) gun and sharp scrapers. This method is by far the least messy and most effective for us. However, having said this, try different methods. You may discover a combination that works better for you. That is o.k.

On the subject of heat guns, we have tried them all from the most expensive at $140.00 to a $25.00 Black & Decker. We use the Black & Decker exclusively. Why? It is a fraction of the weight and produces the same thing. Hot air! Once you have determined the method that works best for you and your boat, get organized. Establish a sharpening area, lay out your tools, clean your space, put on your favorite music and begin. Start at one end and work your way to the other. This sounds basic but avoid the tendency to jump form here to there. You will have better success if you approach the job logically and orderly. You may find that stripping is a two-stage process. Strip off the bulk of the varnish first time around then, hit it a second time removing the residue and bringing the wood back to fresh. This is o.k. too. Scrapers remove more material easier and faster than sandpaper. Stay with them until the job is done. If you find that your scrapers do not work on a particularly tight spot, make one that does. With an old file and a grinder, one can make an excellent specialized scraper. Deck seams. The old caulk, and it may be very old, very hard putty, needs to be removed. Do not try to save this. You will not be able to and still retain the integrity between the caulking and the seam edges. Again, a heat gun works best. Make a gouging tool that fits your seam width. Take your time and be careful! Do not lie awake at night devising a "router/circular saw seam removal machine". We have not seen one that works yet. Take your time and enjoy yourself! This is fun remember?

What is the best way to care for a good Varnish brush?

Although the tendency to use a foam brush for the ultimate in convenience may be great, there is absolutely nothing as satisfying as a good quality, natural bristle varnish brush. When selecting a brush watch for the following:
- A true varnish brush will have slightly shorter bristles in order to "bite" into a heavier product like marine varnish. This makes for a slightly stiffer bristle.
- Check the bristle ends. A good brush will have split ends (just like a split hair).
- Watch for the way the bristles have been cut or chiseled. This will determine how well the brush will smooth the varnish as well as how well it will draw the air from the finish.
- It is difficult to determine how the bristles have been set. Epoxy is normal, vulcanized rubber is great.
- Ensure that the ferule (metal part) is well put together. Hopefully, the material used is stainless.
- If the brush has passed the test so far, chances are the handle is hardwood. At the very least, the quality of the handle will be a good indicator as to the standard used in constructing the rest of the brush. New brushes are very dirty! Take some time to break in a new brush. Use it and clean it out several times with mineral spirits. Keep in mind it may take many sessions to really get it clean. We have brushes that are reserved for final coat only. We still spend up to an hour cleaning a brush prior to a final coat. Sit in front of the TV and flick the bristles back and forth. In front of a bright light, you will be amazed at what will come out of it.

The best way to store a good brush is to keep it wet, suspended in diesel fuel or kerosene. Yes, diesel. Nothing works better as far as we are concerned. Diesel is oily enough to keep the bristles nice and soft while still having enough cutting capability to keep the brush clean. We have a brush that is easily sixteen years old. Prior to varnishing, clean the diesel from the brush with mineral spirits, rinsing and spinning several times. Once done repeat the process. Your brush will be as happy as can be in a diesel or kerosene bath. Change the diesel once or twice a year.

We will bet that what you are experiencing is dust. Dust and/or lint particles that dry in the varnish can form tiny craters that can certainly look like air bubbles. It is very rare for air to dry in a coat of varnish. Let's try to figure out where this dust might be coming from. If the coat looks great upon completion but several hours later looks as if someone has taken a saltshaker to your boat, then the dust problem is most likely airborne. If the dust occurs right away, brushes and the initial cleanliness of the surface are more likely to be the culprits.

Here are a few, sometimes overlooked, sources of dust:
- Although your brush may appear clean, try flicking the bristles in front of a bright lamp. You will be amazed at what comes out of it. Turn on the TV and be patient. It can take an hour. Do not assume that a new brush is clean, new brushes are particularly dusty.
- Be aware of what is happening overhead, it may be that your basement ceiling is shedding dust each time someone crosses the room upstairs.
- Fluorescent lights will act as a dust magnet until the moment you turn them off.
- Check your clothing. Wear dampened Tyvek coveralls.
- Mask or temporarily seal all screw holes. Your brush will certainly pull out whatever is hiding in those holes. We know a painter that varnishes in the nude listening to Vivaldi. Hey, whatever works.

I am having trouble getting successive coats of varnish to smooth out on my boat.What level or grit of sandpaper should I use in between each coat and how hard or how much should I sand the previous coat in order for the next coat to lay up smoothly?

The purpose of sanding is to create a mechanical bond, or "tooth", between two layers of finish. In addition, sanding also flattens the surface creating a smoother surface and improving the appearance of the subsequent coat. Please keep in mind that the purpose of varnish or any other coating is to protect a piece of wood. Don't lose sight of this. Over sanding for the sake of appearance may result in a thin finish with little or no protection. Mil thickness is everything in a varnish system. Let's start at the beginning. Bare wood should normally be prepared to approximately 100 or 120 grit. Anything much finer than this will not create adequate adhesion for that ever so important first coat. Dry paper of about 220 grit should come next to help knock off the raised grain after the first few coats. Once the grain fills and closes, switch to 320 wet or dry. 320 will offer enough adhesion without taking off too much varnish. Stick with 320 right through until the end. If you are using a heavy body varnish, 320 sanding scratches should not show through. Switching to 400 somewhere prior to your final coat is a good idea but, not essential. Anything finer than 400 grit will not offer enough adhesion. Thorough sanding is important. In answer to your question, if you are looking for a "show quality" finish, it is essential that the finish is "dead flat". This can only be accomplished with serious block sanding. In most cases, this style of sanding will remove more varnish than is necessary but does produce the "mirror finish that goes on forever" look. Just be aware of this. Chances are that your edges and possibly, the whole system will be thin. It takes extra care and usually extra coats to produce this type of finish. Our best suggestion is to work towards something in between a "show quality" and a "utility finish". This will produce a better than acceptable finish that will have lots of staying power. We would rather see a not so smooth finish with occasional sags than a too thin finish that has been sanded to death.

Could you explain the differences between varnishes that require sanding between coats and those that don't require sanding?Is there a difference in life expectancy between the two? Also, what is the effective shelf life of varnish? Does storage temperature play a roll?

There are many, many varnishes; clear finishes and hybrid clear coatings on the market today. Most manufacturers have made some attempt in various directions in order to create an easier, faster, longer lasting finish. Unfortunately, we can only comment in any detail on our own products. For obvious reasons, it would be unfair to do otherwise. Twelve years ago, Epifanes produced a finish very similar to our Clear High Gloss Varnish, called Wood Finish Gloss. It is a tung oil, alkyd resin based finish just like our varnish however, it does contain ingredients not normally found in traditional varnishes producing one significant difference. Wood Finish does not require sanding between coats provided the next coat is applied within a 72-hour period. This feature has an obvious effect on the amount of labor and time required to build a finish from bare wood. Sanding is optional. Wood Finish changes the focus of sanding completely. You are no longer sanding for adhesion but appearance only. Are you sacrificing any integrity by using this product? At this point in time no. However, having said that, we are recommending top coating this product with our varnish for the ultimate in performance. We have 97 years experience with our Clear High Gloss Varnish and only twelve years with the Woodfinish. Time will tell. Unopened varnish has virtually no shelf life. We have opened five-year-old varnish that has been perfectly good. The oils and resins may change color and consistency slightly but essentially the product should be fine. Once opened however, the life of the varnish will be greatly reduced. Each time it is opened, a portion of the solvent evaporates leaving a thicker mixture more prone to solidifying. Store the container upside down, reduce the air space, and keep the varnish cool. I have more problems keeping varnish in Florida than Maine. The temperature plays a major roll. Store in a cool area of the basement.

For sanding purposes, what is the effective drying or "cure" time in between coats of varnish or does it vary depending on the relative temperature?

Manufacturers publish a theoretical "dry time" based on a predetermined temperature and humidity level. Certainly, if the conditions are beyond these levels in either direction, the dry time will be effective. Generally speaking, a single-part paint or varnish is safe to sand after 24 hours. This will ensure that the finish is hard enough to withstand the abuse of a good sanding. This does not necessarily mean that the material will be easy to sand or, that the sandpaper will not clog. Better quality varnishes will contain more oil and therefore, will simply take longer to really cure.

For the last two or three coats of varnish, how 'fine' should the sandpaper be and would you suggest that the last coat be thinned or not?

400 grit wet or dry is the absolute finest grit that we would ever recommend. In fact, I usually lean towards 320 grit. Anything finer than 400 grit does not create enough "tooth" or mechanical bond to ensure adhesion. Thinning the final coat is the applicators decision entirely. If you have been building with full strength (my preference) and the varnish has been laying down o.k. then by all means continue with full strength. If however, you are having problems keeping a wet edge or, it is just not behaving, then consider a splash or two of brushing thinner. Only a large dose of thinner (15% or more) will affect the ultimate strength and quality of the finish.

When it comes to cleaning and storing brushes, we are stuck on one method that works very well for us. We have tried many methods, none with any degree of success, especially over the long term. Most methods of course, work great over the short period but, it's months or years later that really tells the tale in our opinion. This is how we recommend cleaning and storing a natural bristle brush:

First, find yourself a container that is impervious to solvents (polyethylene works good). Epifanes manufactures a Brushkeeper specifically for this purpose. The container should be tall enough for your biggest brush and wide enough for your collection. Devise a rack system (ie. coat hanger) that will hang your brushes suspended just clear of the bottom. Fill the container with Diesel (yes, Diesel) or Kerosene until the ferule (the metal part) is halfway submerged. This will ensure that the bristles are "underwater". This is where they will live. When it comes time to use the brush, simply rinse out the diesel two or three times with common mineral spirit, spin and use. After use, repeat with two or three rinsings, a spin and back in the diesel. This method will keep your brushes clean and supple for years. we have 15-year-old brushes that are in great shape. The diesel has enough cutting capability to keep the varnish from clogging up the bristles but, is oily enough to keep the bristles soft. Most brushes these days are Natural or Chinese bristle. Occasionally you will come across a Badger Bristle brush. Have a close look however, as some of the "Badger" bristle brushes are Chinese bristle that have been bleached with the "stripe" to look like Badger. These are called "Badger Style". Read the fine print. Chinese bristle is a stiffer and longer lasting bristle and our choice for high solid paints and varnishes. They will outlast a Badger bristle by years. Beyond this, it comes down to personal preference.

There are several things to consider when analyzing the condition of an existing finish. If you have just purchased a boat, hopefully at a great price, chances are that it is due for a complete refinish. However, having said that, you might be lucky and have found a boat that has intact varnish and only needs freshening up. First, visually examine all of the varnish. Look for discoloration, lifting, peeling or cracking. If this is the case in any area, strip it! If the problem is isolated, at the very least, strip that section. Any deterioration like this means that the varnish has "parted company" with the wood. When this occurs, it doesn't matter how much fresh varnish is applied, the finish is not and will not adhere to the wood. Pay attention to the decks where the seams may be caulked. If these seams show any cracking, this can lead to water damage below decks and will need to be stripped and recaulked. If the finish appears intact but "tired", it may be worth hanging on to the varnish for a few more years or more.

There is certainly value in an older finish especially, if it is original. Wood and varnish changes color with age. The patina that develops with time is impossible to duplicate. If the finish appears good but you are still having doubts, generously dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the surface. This will simulate (for a few seconds) what the finish will look like with a fresh coat. If you like what you see, then you can likely get away with a few fresh maintenance coats. Whether the finish needs to be replaced or not, now is the time to remove hardware. Carefully identify each piece as it's removed using tape Select a type that will not be difficult to remove at a later date, and label using a system that you will understand. Keep in mind that you may not be replacing hardware until the following season so mark it well. You might be amazed at how foreign a piece of hardware may look come Spring. Also, tape the screws to the piece of hardware. Now you can really stand back and have a good look. This is an exciting stage. Enjoy every aspect of it.

I am restoring a 1950's vintage Wavemaker Wolverine with mahogany decks. Should I thin the first few coats of varnish before I apply them? If yes, what percentage of thinner should I use for each coat?

The first few coats of any varnish system are extremely important. The adhesion between subsequent coats will only be as good as the bond between the wood and the first coats. Epifanes Varnishes are loaded with solids. This means that thinning the first few coats is that much more important. Extreme thinning at the beginning maximizes the penetration into the wood and obviously, encourages good adhesion.. We generally recommend thinning the first coat 50% (half & half), the second coat 25% and the third coat 15%. This scenario becomes even more important if the wood has been stained. The aggregate used in a filler stain can sometimes prevent the first coat of varnish from penetrating the wood surface. The first thinned coat or, sealer coat, should be forced or worked into the surface with a good brush or clean cloth.