Boat Detailing 101

Article from Interlux website

 Boats are subjected to harsh conditions that, over time, dull fiberglass, dim the shine of metals and fade paint. Winter storage is particularly unkind to boats sitting sadly neglected for several months. Boats in southern climates endure tropical exposures that age their appearance faster so, either north or south springtime clean up demands some powerful cleaning aids. Factor the multitude of products on store shelves and as many theories on their application and you have the makings of a job gone awry. As with any task, choosing the right tools and materials can save you time and money.
Before heading to the boatyard, collect your tools (refer to the clean-up kit on this page). Once there, follow these steps to quickly and easily clean and protect your boat all season long.

Cleaning rule number two: Always use a boat soap. Leave the Cascade, Fantastic, Palmolive, Simple Green et al at home. Household products may work great but they can damage gelcoat if allowed to dry on the surface. Most of these products are highly alkaline with a pH of around 12 to 14 (Figure 1). They can completely strip wax layers and even etch the gelcoat (known as alkaline streaking), if allowed to dry. Neither acidic nor alkaline, most soaps formulated for marine use have a neutral pH of 7 and are safe to use on gelcoat surfaces.
Soaps come in liquid and granular form and some liquids are concentrated. Concentrates are nice because you use as much as you need to get the job done. The first spring cleaning demands full strength soap; for routine cleaning dilute the soap. Some soaps remove wax so take care to select the right one if you want to remove wax.
If it's not stated on the label don't assume it's safe; household soaps definitely remove wax. As for cleaning power, boat soaps work equally well. A high-sudsy soap doesn't clean better and, with suds, less is best. We associate suds with cleaning power but covering the surfaces to be cleaned with suds obscures the dirt that needs your attention.
One-step wash and wax products apply an additional barrier that, depending on the amount of rainfall and sunlight your boat withstands, gives up to two weeks of protection. These waxed soaps make surfaces easier to clean and slightly enhance surface gloss. For the final rinse, remove the nozzle and turn the hose pressure down to about 50% so water gently wets the surface. Spraying surfaces with a blast of water won't remove the wax affect but you're adding more water to the surface than necessary and this extends the drying time.
To remove wax you'll need a heavy duty acidic cleaner. Use full strength or dilute following the manufacturer's instructions. Some products will damage painted surfaces so, again, check the label and look for "paint safe." Always follow with a thorough scrubbing with soap and water and rinse well to remove all residue, which contaminates surfaces and leaves a hazy finish after waxing. If the gelcoat is in good condition, follow with a wax or polish or apply a rubbing compound on faded surfaces. [Step-by-step instructions on refinishing dull and faded gelcoat and the proper application of rubbing compounds, glazes and waxes appears in DIY 2002-No.1 issue.
 

More than Bristles
Cleaning rule number three: Invest in quality brushes and you'll need more than one. Brushes are useful to clean those hard to reach areas and to apply more cleaning power on deck non-skid. W've owned a variety of inexpensive brushes sold for home and auto use and none cut the mustard. Wood brushes rot where the handle shaft screws into the brush and, with wear, the bristles flatten and fall out, leaving a blue trail on the deck and exposing the screw that secures the handle. Better brushes are made of plastic or poly with a molded-in handle. Premium brushes have a rubber bumper around the edge that protect surfaces in contact with the brush head.
Brushes are rated by firmness and for most cleaning jobs you'll need two: a soft brush for cleaning gelcoat and painted topsides and a stiff brush for cleaning non-skid decks, teak, canvas and cushions and scrubbing waterline stains. Flying bridge cruisers with a large enclosure will want a third, very soft brush to gently clean windows. This supersoft brush is gentle on graphics, too. A brush that curls and pushes out or flattens usually means you've been scrubbing too hard.

 Spot-free Finishes
Cleaning rule number four: Always dry surfaces. Professional boat detailers always dry a boat yet most boaters opt for air drying. Drying does a couple of things. The freshwater used for rinsing contains a concoction of chlorine, lime and maybe iron from well water. These sediments create a residue on surfaces that is only removed by wiping down.
A secondary benefit is that drying gets you up close with your boat so you can check for damage or defects and inspect fittings. After rinsing, wipe down all surfaces using a PVA cloth (Absorber) or use a squeegee for a spot and streak-free finish. Surfaces will look cleaner and glossier if dried.

Cleaning Do's	Cleaning Don'ts
Cover your boat for long-term storage, preferably with shrinkwrap, which offers better protection, lessens chafe and keeps the boat appreciably cleaner.	Use alkaline cleaning products that can damage surfaces and the marine environ-ment.
Before using any product, read the application and first aid instructions on the back label and then follow them.	Use a metal hose nozzle as it will chip or crack the gelcoat when (not if) dropped.
When washing a boat in a slip or a mooring, use a biodegradable, environmentally friendly soap.	Dry wipe bird droppings with a towel or you'll scratch the surface area with the excreted seeds and nuts that birds eat.
Start rinsing and cleaning at the highest point and work your way down.	Use a towel or rag as contaminants might scratch the surface. Use micro fiber towels, which gently lift and remove dirt and grime without smearing or streaking. When dirty, toss them into a washing machine and machine dry.
When cleaning a very dirty boat, have a second large bucket filled with clean water to rinse the brush or wash mitt often to remove dirt and grime.	Use a fabric softener, dryer softener sheets or a detergent with fabric softener when washing any rag.
Minimize soapsuds so you can see what you're cleaning.	Scrub hard or you'll scratch surfaces. Let the cleaning products do all the work.
For the final rinse, remove the hose nozzle and reduce the water pressure so water sheets rather than beads on the surface.	Use any products that contain silicone oil.
Dry surfaces after washing, rain or heavy dew.	Let any soap dry on surfaces. Keep a rinse hose handy.
Vigorously shake product bottles for a few seconds prior to opening.	Apply rubbing compounds, polishes or waxes on hot surfaces and never apply in sunlight.
Apply rubbing compounds in a back-and-forth motion. Apply polish (or wax) in a circular motion.	Apply polish on a wet surface as water droplets can cause streaking or make the polish difficult to remove.
Apply polish to everything onboard, including painted (except Awlgrip) and var-nished finishes, metals and plastics, for a glossy, easy-to-clean protective layer.	Apply a polish or wax to non-skid surfaces. Woody Wax, when applied according to label directions, offers good non-slip protection to non-skid surfaces.
	On painted boats, use products that are not approved for use on painted surfaces.

Original link from the Interlux website