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Interlux Hull Makeover


If you have the time you can paint your boat yourself
by Gary Caputi, Motorboating magazine.
Article from Interlux website Boat

Step 1: Pre-Prep:
With the boat on blocks I removed the rubrail and everything attached to the hull below it and above the waterline. Thru hulls in the bottom were left in place because they get painted. The local Soda-Blast Systems guys (www.sodablast systems.com) removed the old bottom paint (see the August issue of "Motor Boating"). Then I wet-sanded the hull sides and transom using an orbital sander with 120-grit disks to remove the gloss. I wiped them down with 202 solvent and examined the surface for dings, pits and cracks, which I circled with a pencil.

Step 2: Repairs and First Prime
The damaged areas were filled using Evercoat Formula 27. After hardening, each area was sanded and second and third applications were made as n eeded. Filling with spreader Pinholes and blisters below the waterline were similarly repaired. A wipe down with 2333N solvent preceded the first coat of Epoxy Primekote, applied using a solvent resistant 8" roller and brushed in tight spots. After drying, the primer was sanded with the orbital using 120-grit, taking it down to the gel coat in places, which revealed more subtle flaws.

Step 3: Small Repairs and Second Prime
Using Evercoat PolyFlex glazing putty, available at auto body supply stores, I filled fine imperfections quickly, some taking two applications. Each repair wasrolling primer sanded by hand with 220. A quick wipe down and another application of Primekote followed. This coat was carefully sanded to a thin layer using the orbital and 220-grit. The primer creates a smooth, imperfection-free surface. (Top-coat paint will highlight, not hide imperfections.) With the aid of friends, an honest 40 man-hours of prep went into the hull before mixing the first quart of color.


Step 4: Color Time

Applying self-leveling, two-part Interlux Perfection polyurethane marine paint with a roller and brush is a two-man operation with one rolling a thin layer of paint color onto the hull and the other "tipping" it with a fine, China bristle brush. Tip first in an X pattern, then up and down, and finally horizon-tally. We worked in small sections starting at the bow and down one side,then the other side, and finally the transom. We applied as little paint as possible to prevent sagging. Start at the bottom and work up with a loaded roller so less is applied at the top of the stroke where gravity can create sags. Additional coats are applied without sanding within 24 to 36 hours. We applied a total of three, and the final coat was touch-dry in eight hours and cured to a hard finish in seven days.


Step 5: Bottoms Up


The paint looked fantastic, even without buffing, but the bottom was still naked. I carefully taped off the water line and sanded the gloss off the new yellow paint masking the line where we carried it below the water line. Over two days I applied three coats of Interprotect 2000 barriercoat (see September issue of "MotorBoating") and I sanded and primed the trim tabs. When the barrier coat was dry and the bottom and the tabs had two coats of bottom paint (Micron CSC), they were reinstalled with black Quick Drying 5200 sealant, along with all hardware. A new Taco Metals Flexible Vinyl Rubrail was installed according to Taco's website instructions, and I added a black bootstripe to complete the new look and make my 17-year-old Mako shine like new again.



Original Link from Interlux website





Bottom Paint Guide
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How Antifouling Paint Works
Interlux Antifoulant Selection Guide
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Antifouling Paint Systems for Various Substrates
Handy Specifications
How To Paint Previously Painted Bottoms
Interlux Applying Antifouling Advice
Antifouling Paint Calculator
Antifoulant on Aluminum Hulls
Interlux Antifoulant on Metal Outdrives, Keels and Centerboards
Hints for the Perfect Bottom Finish
Interlux Antifoulant FAQ
 
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How to Recognize and Treat Osmosis Gelcoat Blisters
Protect Against Gelcoat Blisters with Interlux Interprotect
Interlux Gelcoat Blister Repair FAQ
 
 



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