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I've used West System epoxy for repairing cracked teak toe rails, for re-glassing bulkheads, and other general repairs. The DVD that explains its use is very helpful, with good visual and verbal explanations for various uses.
Proper mixture of resin and hardener are critical. The optional pumps make measuring exact, and IMHO are essential. Mixing as instructed will ensure a solid, nearly bulletproof repair.
Clean up is best done before the spilled mixture has time to kick/set up. Acetone usually cleans up the mess.
I found that using the 205 fast hardener permits proper curing down to 40 degrees F. A little extra heat from a heat gun or light bulb helps.
An excellent product!
I have used West System for years on dryrot on my boat. Dig out the rot. I use a spoon to messure 5 to one and add filler. It drys in an hour and I only need one coat of paint over it. Sometime if not completely dry I paint anyway and the paint and resin dry together. If a large hole I use water base wood filler and when it drys I sand it and then put a coat of West over the filler.
I have to agree with radiodude's review. West Sys appears to be very sensitive to getting the proper mix ratio (5:1). The pumps help, but if you don't get it just right, or if some epoxy does not get mixed in well with the hardener, you will get partial cures. Also, the amine blush can be pretty bad compared to other epoxy I've used. Finally, I had some incompatibility with Interlux Schooner varnish (this has been loosely documented as an occasional issue in the past) over the West epoxy. I still keep it around for laminating and small jobs that will not be overcoated directly, but personally will not use it for glassing, or flow coats.-[@]
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
The packaging system and pumps make it easy to use in the correct proportions, and it needs to be in the correct proportions, it is not forgiving of mistaken mixes.
It is possible to get bad results if the ambient temp drops during cure, or humidity gets very high during cure. In the humidity case, the result was a milky appearance and partial cure. In these cases, you need to remove it and start over. I have also had some instances of partial cure, where the "final" result is rubbery.
I have found that this epoxy is good for general repairs, especially with coarse cloths and mat, it laminates well to polyester and vinylester when making hull repairs. The powder fillers are dusty and messy but work well for 'fill' repairs and make it easy to sand smooth and flush.
This epoxy does not seem to work at all on Teak or Oak wood. It is too viscous and does not penetrate the grain. This results in just a skin coat of epoxy on the wood's surface, which later peels off the oak or teak, like old, blistered latex paint.
It worked ok on mahogany and pine/fir.
Do not use it in thick coats or try to 'pot' anything, even something tiny, the exotherm will make it smoking hot and you will have a rubbery mess that is hard to clean up.
It seems to accept mix-in color pigments fairly well.
There is not anything one can say against WSystem; saves lots of maintenance used properly.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
Great product. Buy the pumps, it makes life that much easier.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
I use West 105 Epoxy with the clear 207 hardener for coating cedar strip canoes with fiberglass. The glass wets out easily, adhesion to wood is great, and the clarity with slight amber color enhances the wood's beauty. Sanding irregularities is hard work, like any resin, so it's worth taking the time to get a good finish to minimise this. The epoxy also makes a wonderfully strong glue if thickened a little to prevent running out of joints.
Images shared by: PeterMy first canoe
Tags: Made with Product
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
What can i say, i love this stuff. As easy to use as any two part glue. The pumps make everything one to one. Here in NE, the 205 cures quicker in the lower temps so my parts are sandable the next day.