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Customers most agreed on the following attributes:
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
WE NOTICED THAT IT WAS ALREADY THINNED TO A USABLE CONSISTENCY, AS WE APPLY IT TO OUR HORSES HOOVES. IT SPREAD EASILY AND STAYED IN PLACE WELL. [...]
from Seattle, WA on 10/29/2010
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
Great product just as described. Good consistency and makes great soap. Takes a litte work to clean up. I will purchase again.
from Swampscott, MA on 5/8/2010
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
Great product for homemade varnish to waterproof decks. Has an excellent consistency for mixing with boiled linseed oil. Note, paint thinner works just as well as turpentine and dries just a tad faster.
from Saint Paul, MN on 2/27/2010
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
Wikipedia says that pine tar was used to treat wooden skis in the past. I treated them a couple weeks ago, so I guess I'd say that is the recent past. I went skiing and had fun, so I'd say the product met my expectations.
from colorado on 2/24/2009
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
I use it in wood boats and I just smelled it and it dosn't smell like the pine tar I get from other sources. runny also. maybe this shoud be stuck with horses feet like the lable says. It need to serve its purpuse and smell good too.
from Grass Valley Ca on 2/15/2009
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
Pine Tar is a great product to add a nice brown color to natural wood and protect the wood from the elements. The problem I have with Bickmore Pine Tar is the smell. Stockholm pine tar has a nice pine odor. Bickmore has a very strong smell that is anything but the smell of pine. So be prepared to air out the garage after using it. Whatever you do don't try to paint over a wood surface that has been coated with pine tar. The paint will not dry properly. That also goes for varnish.
Swiftsure Sailboat with Pine Tar interior
Tags: Using Product
[7 of 7 customers found this review helpful]
from Willow Street, Pennsylvania on 11/13/2008
Comments about Bickmore Pine Tar:
North East weather is hard on porch floors. The summer sun can UV/bake the best finish. Fall rains can soak the floor repeatedly. Slushy wet snow can lay on it for days. Pre-painted mahoghany is just not up to the task. And I can't afford the plastics. What to do?
I looked at Jamestown's traditional coating recipe and some others. The consensus out there seems to be for repeated "soaker" coats followed by a "finish" coat.
I took two Jamestown one-quart plastic containers with lids. In one, I put 10 oz Raw Linseed Oil, 10 oz Pure Gum Turpentine and 4 oz Pine Tar, for a "soaker" batch. In the other, I put 10 oz Boiled Linseed Oil, 10 oz Pure Gum Turpentine and 4 oz Pine Tar, and a dash of Japan Drier, for a "finishing" batch.
The "finish" was applied to the tops of the treated joists, open grain of the decking on the house side and the bottom of the flooring. The "soaker" batch was applied repeatedly to the flooring tongue and groove, and to the top surface and open end grain. After the walking surface looked dry - some time later - I'd hit it again with the soaker. After rejection, that is, no more soaker coat being absorbed, I finished it.
Caution: follow up with a soaker coat on a periodic basis, especially on the end grain. This will give one a dark porch floor over time. But it will be as weatherly as a frigate's squared yards.