Customers most agreed on the following attributes:
Is very easy to get professional results with the roller and brush tipping looks like I have used a spray gun , you have to work small linear areas and fast with the brush , tinning helps to gain time to brushing tipping, with the second coat and you're done and saved thousands of dollars as DIY.
I applied 3 coats of Ocean Blue (two quarts) over 2 coats of PreKote (1 quart) on my '79 Jeep CJ5 using high density foam rollers and foam brushes. The paint covered well and did a relatively good job leveling, although I couldn't avoid mild orange peel. Although not a mirror finish, it is significantly glossy. After the paint has a chance to fully cure, I'll determine if I want to wet sand and polish. The first coat of PreKote went on at 100% and the second coat was mixed 50% with the Brightside. I think that was a good approach for laying down a consistent base coat that was easy to cover with 100% Brightside.
I have quite a bit of experience with paint, both marine and house paints. I am very pleased with Interlux products. I have a wood boat that is in the water year round uncovered.
I used this paint primarily because of the high gloss value, plus it is getting more difficult to find traditional oil base marine enamel in stores.
The paint goes on smooth and produces a very nice finish, just a little thining, roll and tip, and your all set.
2 years ago I used off white and blue. I have a friend that used yellow. I noticed that after 8 months there was a very noticeable color fade with the blue and the yellow; the off white was difficult to tell, but all lost gloss, and the cabin top was worse than the other areas, more sun Im sure.
I used traditional Interlux yacht enamel for all the white on the boat, that held a much nicer gloss over the same time period.
The next year I experimented with the 2 paints, traditional oil based enamel blue and off white, and polyurethane blue and off white. Yes the Polyurethane lost more gloss and a lot more color, under the same conditions with the same prep. I was much happier with the enamel.
I have heard reports from other wood boat owners that it also tends to crack. Maybe because its a harder paint? Maybe better on fiberglass?
My opinion, good paint, but I much prefer traditional oil based enamel, primarily for color rentention. But there are very few colors available, try Epifanes for variety.
I have had the same experience with other brand Polyurethanes, Petit Easypoxy brown, not just Interlux.
I have used the polyurethane inside with great success.
I have to admit I fell for the slick adcopy on the homepage of Top Secret/Supermarine paint. I bought over [$] worth of their paint, primer and thinners.After wasting months trying to getting decent results on my boat with various techniques (rolling, brushing, roll and tip and spray) I finally gave up and purchased Interlux Brightsides and it looks marvelous.The TS paint would not "flow"to give a smooth finish. When I wet sanded it with 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper the paint was so rough that in places I wore through the paint and could see the original gelcoat or primer. I would paint the bad spots again, only to get the same result over and over. I thought it was my technique. Their floor grip paint was just as bad, separating immediately and giving an excessively rough, uneven finish. When I repeatedly called and emailed TS for advice they "fixed"their problem by refusing to answer.I finally "bit the bullet" and decided to purchase another brand. After reading all the reviews I could find, I emailed the major marine paint manufacturers with questions , and received a personal, detailed response to my questions from Interlux, better than anyone else's response, so I decided to go with them. So far I have not regretted my decision at all!Brightsides is great at leveling after it is applied. There is no need to sand out bad places, there aren't any! The finish is incredible, it looks like it's still wet. My endless days of sanding are over, the project is moving forward again. Now if it just holds up well it will be the "perfect" 1-part paint!
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
Some quick notes:
- 'Topsides' are the _sides_ of your boat (above water), not the deck; don't use this stuff where people will be walking.
- Interlux says use 333; I did and got great results. Why use something else then complain about it?
The main thing we figured out was to roll first then tip in the edges (quickly!) and brush out the bubbles (again, be quick about it). Work fast to maintain a wet edge, and add a little 333 as the paint in your tray starts to thicken.
Brushing: cheap chip brushes will work (and it is pleasant to toss them rather than clean them), but the best results we got were from a better (around ten buck) brush. Also, brushing vertically gave us the best results.
I repainted the fiberglass top structure on a 32 foot 45 YOA Chriscraft used in freshwater. Altogether it was a huge undertaking for a do it yourselfer, but it came out great. Most of the work is in the p[repping, including two primer coats. All materials, cleaners, etc. etc. by Interlux (333 and 216), quality brushes ( I did use a roller for the larger spaces when I had a helper going behind me with a brush). Use the 333 as a thinner -- it helps the paint level out. Just a little bit of 333 goes a long way.
Now I'll do the deck, and despite all the opinions, I'll probably stay with Brightside. It's price, coverage and ease of use make it a real bargain.
I have used this product for many years on my 40-foot mahogany sloop. It applies easily, looks good and it lasts. The gloss holds up quite well for two or three years and the paint is at least as abrasion-resistant as any other I have used in the past.
[0 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
I am very unhappy. I spent a lot of time on the prep. of my boat and I hate the final look. I used 216 thinner on the first two coats. And it looked like a eggshell. Then I used penetrol Witch I have used with good results in the past. But not with this brightside. I would not recommend this product.P.S. this was not my first.
West Marine folks recommended this material from the Chicago boat show. Great product, superb color (flag blue) outstanding gloss, requires care in tiping and working with wet paint but don't be afraid of this you'll be up on practice after the 3rd coat, (2 primer and 2 or 3 top coats).
First time boat painter and I'm 100% pleased.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
Pained a small car with Hatteras off white and light blue. It looks great! If you roll your car, you should use this paint.
Used primer as directed (2 coats) and boat looked and felt perfect before applying brightside. There is no way to stop the numerous air bubbles that form when applying with brush or roller. I tipped off the paint as directed and air bubbles persisted. Also thinned out second coat with solvent 33 and it still has hundreds of air bubbles. When sanding bubbles (wet 320 grit) you remove the sheen. I would only use this product if spraying.
[2 of 2 customers found this review helpful]
I decided to use this on my 20ft Mako, and so far am very pleased with the results. Paint laid up nicely, and the shine is much better than expected. Looks like a 2 stage paint. I wet sanded with 300 after my first coat, and then rolled out a thin 2nd coat. Think I'm going to wet sand again, as I got some dust particles and bugs......then apply a 3rd and final coat. Looks alot better than the previous paint I used and way better than my buddies one part paint he used on his boat.
[0 of 2 customers found this review helpful]
Extremely disappointed with this product. I used this product to paint the topside of a 14 foot Laser sailboat that was THOROUGHLY prep'd. Although the product applies fairly easily and has a nice gloss, the negatives greatly outweigh the positives.
(1) It finishes line an enamel (cake-like) where product can be picked off with your fingernail even after two weeks of dry time. (2) The finish absorbed the color (and became discolored) from straps used to attach the boat to a trailer only after 24 hours. (3) This product will show the scrapes and bumps of every little impact from ordinary usage and provide very little resistance.
All of the above took place after two weeks of dry time AND one week's worth of light usage.
I am extremely disappointed with the product and will likely strip it off and replace it with a different product. It was a terrible waste of time and money. I can't recommend this product to any person in good conscience.
[3 of 3 customers found this review helpful]
I own a 16 ft. plywood boat built in 1955 which I have owned since 1972. I retired in 1991 and started using Brightside after that when I refinished my boat. This is the third time I have
used it since then. I have found it wears well and color matches perfectly every time.
[2 of 2 customers found this review helpful]
I have painted several boats with this product for myself and friends. Use 333 brushing thinner and mixed to slightly heavier than water consistancy and apply with foam roller tip with a good Purdy brush. Build several layers and sand in between with 220/320. It takes practice but you can achieve a spray on finish for a few dollars verses several thousand.
[2 of 2 customers found this review helpful]
When doing a fiberglass boat with an existing gell coat, make sure all the cracks are filled, surface sanded and all of the repairs have a good coat of primer.
Spray at least two wet coats and sand between coating.
It can give a professional durable finish.
I did not check it on large areas, but on small area
it works great. Easy to apply with brush or foam.
[2 of 2 customers found this review helpful]
This product applies and covers nicely! It's met my expectation for a high quality single part urethane paint. Nice finish, easy to apply by novice or seasoned pro, without the downside and danger of certain 2 part urthanes. A bit too pricey at [$]- [$] per quart, [$]per quart about right.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
I have used this paint for over 15 ears and have continually been impressed with how durable it is. I recommend using the primer on bare wood substrates, sanded smooth with 220 grit to fill all pores. I usually do thee coats of the Brightside, wet sanded between coats with 360 grit. The finish is gorgeous. Mixing it with some of the fattening agent gives the same smooth finish with less gloss. Work in a ventilated area or use a charcoal filter mask.
[1 of 3 customers found this review helpful]
I used this on my 18ft Cobalt Boat. I wanted to freshen up the topside appearance of it. I had my boat under a full portable enclosure with minimal wind but found the paint drying much faster than advertised when tip and roll applied.
The most disappointing part is the topsides starting bubling up by the end of the summer. Now the entire deck has raised bumps everywhere.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
painting my homebuilt airplane smooth surface results,cost
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
I'd probably want to use a 2-part polyurethane if I were painting the entire topside, just because they are harder and more durable, but this paint is great for painting stripes and smaller areas. Easy to feather out the brush strokes, and it levels itself and gets smoother and shinier as it dries.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
I like this paint, it's easy to work with and coat well
Grat product for roll and tip application. Goes on easily and flows smooth. After a little final buffing, it looks great.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
Brightside does everything you could ask for in a high quality finish. Will spray to a perfect coat over complex, curving surfaces like outboard engine covers OR can be brush applied when you don't want to mask and clean up a gun. Vivid colours, hard, easy to clean surface, fast drying.
Easy to brush out, doesn't leave brush strokes and keeps a wet edge. I've found it cures at cooler temperatures quicker than some of the other one part paints[...].