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Interlux Epoxy Primekote is a multi-purpose two-part epoxy primer for use above the waterline. Epoxy Primekote is an excellent under coater for Perfection 2-Part Polyurethane finishes.
Epoxy Primekote is used as a sanding surface to smooth rough lay-up and to resurface cracked and crazed gelcoat. Use Primekote to overcoat clear epoxies to eliminate the effects of amine blush.
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Epoxy Primekote (formerly Epoxy Barrier-Kote) is a multi-purpose two-part epoxy primer that sands freely without loading the sandpaper.
Epoxy Primekote can be used with any topside paint but it is the recommended primer for use with two-part finishes such as Perfection and can also be overcoated with Toplac, Brightside, Interlux Yacht Enamel, Interdeck and Bilgekote. It is also used as part of a system to re-surface cracked and crazed gelcoat prior to the application of topside paint.
Use Epoxy Primekote over clear epoxies as a sanding surfacer and to eliminate the effects of amine blush. Epoxy Primekote is bright white, which makes it ideal for priming bilge and locker areas. Can also be used in some underwater systems.
APPLICATION AND USE
Preparation
BARE FIBERGLASS: Degrease by wiping with a rag soaked in Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Abrade with 120-220 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.
CLEAR EPOXY: Allow three to five days for clear epoxies to cure fully. Remove amine blush by using Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Sanding does not remove contamination. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Abrade with 80-120 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Sand with 80 grade (grit) sandpaper and remove sanding residue with Brushing Reducer 2333N. Repair any defects with Interfill Epoxy Filler or Watertite, then sand with 120-220 grade (grit) paper and clean with Brushing Reducer 2333N.
BARE METAL: Surface should be blasted to bright metal. If blasting is not possible, grind with 36 grade (grit) discs. Apply one very thin coat of Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354. Allow to dry for 1-24 hours. (but no more than 24 hours).
BARE WOOD: Sand surface with 80-120 grade (grit) paper, wipe clean.
For Additional product information click the "LINKS" tab above.
BRAND:
Interlux
Material:
Epoxy
Number Of Parts:
Two Part
Type:
Topside Paint Primer
Questions & Answers about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
2013-05-15PIETER G asked: can i use epoxy 2 part prime coat underneath brightside paint?
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2013-05-30MARK WEBB: Pieter G, Sorry I cannot answer you question. I have applied over two part epoxy which works well. Good luck.
2013-05-30LAWRENCE COLEMAN: Yes. The application info on the Primekote can says that Primekote can be overcoated with one-part paints and mentions Brightside as an example.
2013-05-30ATLANTIC SPECIALITIES: Yes, works fine
2013-05-01ROBERT PORRECA asked: I have a large sculpture made of epoxy. I want to paint it black with a interlux poly product. Do I need to use the epoxy primer? Thanks.
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2013-05-30BRAD HICKMAN: I'm sure Interlux would say yes but I used the epoxy primer to fill imperfections while finishing a wooden dinghy covered with fiberglass/epoxy. I then sanded enough off to expose bare epoxy over most of it. That was followed with Interlux two part poly and it's stood up well for two years.
2013-05-30Robert Porreca: The piece I'm working on is new epoxy with a high gloss surface. Can I paint that kind of surface with the two part poly ?? There is also a lot of texture to the surface that I don't want to sand off. That said, it's high gloss and will the primer stick.?? Thanks Brad for the advice. Bob
2013-05-30BRAD HICKMAN: I wouldn't expect the paint to adhere well to a high gloss surface. If a durable finish is needed media blasting may be an alternative to sanding.
2013-05-30BRAD HICKMAN: Another thought, you may be able to use Scotch Bright pads to scuff the gloss without removing the texture.
2013-05-30STEPHAN SCOTT: Hey Robert,
I have used Primekote when building my boat and had great success as a primer. I know that it works great. My question to you would be this: Do you have confidence in the final coat without using this primer? If so, then no problem. If not, then using primekote probably makes more sense. That's just my logic and no guarantee, but it seems safer than not using the primer. Hope that helps and good luck with your project. Steve.
2013-05-30RICARDO CALLADO: Not sure for sculpture but I definitely used primer for my board
2013-05-31ROBERT NEWMAN: Yes, you should prime the sculpture. The Primekote will fill any small pin holes and allow you to sand and fair the surface. Use the two part linear urethane products for the final coats. Thee is a flattening additive available if you do not want a high gloss surface. The two part finishes have better UV and abrasion resistance. Bob N.
2013-05-31Robert Porreca: Thank you. I was not aware of the flattening additive and now I plan to us it. Sanding this thing will be painful. I learned a great deal doing this sculpture. No time for sloppy craft. Thanks again.
2013-04-13WILLIAM HARTIS asked: Do you thin Primekote with 2333N ?
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2013-04-16DENNIS ROBB: I do not thin it and get excellent results. To be sure it works well that way for you give it a try on a small piece first.
2013-04-16DAN HOUSTON: Yes please see below from the mfg website
BARE WOOD Sand surface with 80-120 grade (grit) paper, wipe clean.
Method Apply the first coat and allow to dry overnight. Sand between coats with 120 grade (grit) paper.
Hints Mixing Stir or shake individual components thoroughly. Add curing agent to the base at 1 part curing agent to 3 parts
base (by volume). Stir and leave for 20 minutes induction time and to allow the bubbles to disperse. Add thinner after the
induction time.
Thinner Brush/Roller - Brush Thinner 2333N. Spray - Reducing Solvent 2316N.
Thinning Epoxy Primekote must be thinned a minimum of 25% before application. Use Brush Reducer 2333N when
brushing or rolling, and Reducing Solvent 2316N when spraying. Add thinner after the induction time.
Cleaner Bare Fiberglass - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Epoxy - Fiberglass
Solvent Wash 202 or Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601.
Airless Spray Pressure: 170-204 bar/2500-3000 psi. Tip Size: 0.53 mm/21 thou.
Conventional Spray Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi (gun pressure); 8-10 psi (pot pressure). Tip Size:
1.8-2.2 mm/70-85 thou.
Other If fairing is required, apply 1 coat of Epoxy Primekote. After overnight dry, sand and apply Interfill Epoxy Filler or
Watertite. This should be followed by additional coats of Epoxy Primekote. When u
2013-04-19GENE FITZPATRICK: Yes that's the appropriate thinner if you need to thin.
interlux provides this info at their yachtpaint website in the Thinners Section.
2013-03-07MIKE SCHMIDT asked: Can interlux epoxy primekote be used as a prep coat for Kiwi Grip?
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2013-03-10DAN HOUSTON: Yes... Carefully READ all the instructions and take time to do the proper surface prep.Epoxy Primekote can be used with any topside paint but it is the recommended primer for use with two-part finishes such as Perfection and can also be overcoated with Toplac, Brightside, Interlux Yacht Enamel, Interdeck and Bilgekote. It is also used as part of a system to re-surface cracked and crazed gelcoat prior to the application of topside paint.
2012-06-17JONERIK JOHNSON asked: I have a Bayliner 2855 - and I am about to paint everything above the waterline. I was thinking about using the Interlux epoxy primer and paint, I hear great things about it. But, with the built in non skid areas, I am concerned about priming and painting these areas in the cockpit, around the cockpit and on the bow. Too much paint and primer will make the non skid area look messy and not so professional. can I use just the epoxy paint and skip the primer? Or, do you have another product that will work better? Maybe I just use the epoxy primer and paint on the hull, and something else on the rest of the boat? But I am not sure how to blend those areas because of the different products, I have no definitive lines to separate areas, everything flows together above bump guard. I see many people with same issue, and I would like to come up with a solution...or at least options for them and myself. What do you recommend?
JonErik Johnson
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2012-06-18CARL SALAMONE: I used Epoxy Primekote over the nonskid on my Catalina 22. You just have to be careful not to get too much paint in there (I used spray application). For the topcoat, I taped around the nonskid areas and used Perfection + Flattening Agent on the nonskid. Gloss Perfection everywhere else. All spray application looks great. Never used a roll and tip though....
2012-06-18JonErik Johnson: Thanks for the information Carl, much appreciated. Did you sand the primer before applying the topcoat? Often when I spray product, I spray one write over the other, after a short cure periods...I was planning on roll and tip, but you peak my interest about spraying. If you didn't sand primer, hows everything holding together?
Thanks ~ JonErik
2012-06-18JIM GRANT: I have used the primer and brightsides topcoat on my Islander 37 nonskid with great results. It is true that the Islanders had a very coarse (knobby) nonskid but I think the primer is thin enough that even a sandpaper textured nonskid would not be made ineffective under two or three coats of primer and paint.
I have used the brightsides paint on smaller boats (Lasers and Sunfish) without the primer and it is quite evident that the primer treated surfaces are much more durable.
2012-06-18JonErik Johnson: Hi Jim,
Thanks very much for the information. I wonder if you're talking about spraying or using the roll-tip method? If I get the non-skid area prepared for primer, then I have to re-sand for topcoat, I am wondering if I should just spray one over the other in a matter of a few hours...I guess using a chemical bond rather that sanding cleaning and applying topcoat a couple days later.. What would you recommend?
Thanks ~ JonErik
2012-06-18JIM GRANT: I used a cone shaped wire brush in a quarter inch electric drill to prepare my non-skid surface for the primer. Then I applied the Bright Sides within 12 hours or so to get the chemical bond that you mention. It seems to have worked well. At least so far (I am just one year beyond the application). Oh, one other thing, I wiped the surface down with Interlux fiberglass solvent (is it # 202?) after the wire brushing.
2012-06-18JIM GRANT: By the way, I used the roll and tip application method. I find that this results in a higher gloss than the sprayed on finish when it is properly thined. I also sanded lightly the smooth painted areas with 600 wet paper and then polished with 3m Imperial.
2012-05-09JEFF WILL asked: Want to use epoxy prime coat but am not sure if current paint is 1 part or 2 part, and i have read that this must NOT be applied over a one part paint. Also would like to know the coverage, as I have a 16 ft sailboat and want to paint the deck and topsides.
And how many coats do you need or is one sufficient?
thanks
geoff
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2012-05-09PAUL COTTRELL: Jeff,
there is an easy test I have used to see if the current coating is 1 part or 2 part.
To test - soak a rag in MEK (available at home depot or a paint supply) and tape it against the surface to be tested. It's best to cover it with a small piece of plastic like a ziplock bag and seal it up on all sides making sure the soaked rag is against the surface. Wait a couple of hours or so and take the rag away. If the coating bubbled up and can be scraped or wiped away you have a 1 part coating - if not than 2 part coating or gel coat.
Coverage has been pretty good for me. I have a 42 foot sailboat and did roughly 80% of the deck with 1/2 gallon - 1 coat.
2012-05-10ROBERT MURPHY: I recently used Primekote on the bilge in a 23' Seaway 8' Beam. I applied it with a brush and the coverage was excellent. I did follow the preparation procedures. I would think a gallon would do the job for you.
2012-05-10ATLANTIC SPECIALITIES: Do Not put this over any paint!
This is a great primer to use over epoxy of fiberglass. BUT it is the most viscious, toxic stuff out there. You need a full respirator to use this indoors and in any kind of enclosed area if you would like to have a functioning liver.
If you are unsure of the base you are painting over try a one part primer from Interlux like Pre Coat or Petit's hi build.
Either of these will go over a (solid) mystery base with out lifting it.
As for coats, it depends on how fair you want the finished product to be and what you are starting with.
For that size boat I would start with 2 quarts of primer and go from there, sanding up thru the grits to 220 before the finish coats.
Good Luck!
2012-05-10JON GRAZNAK: I don't have an answer to your 1 part/2part question, but I recently used Primekote on a kevlar canoe I refinished. It performed just as I would have liked on the old gelcoat and formed a great base for the Perfection 2 part color coats. (I realize that these products are not really supposed to be used below the waterline, but this canoe is a freshwater only boat that comes out of the water every time it is paddled.)
As for coverage, I rolled and tipped the Primekote, and a quart gave me two coats on a 17 foot canoe. I estimated the area at about 35 sq/ft, and I had a few rollers full in the bottom of the pan following each coat. I'd guess that you could count on 75 sq/ft a quart pretty safely if you were rolling and tipping. I've not ever sprayed this product.
I was also pleased with the build and opacity. I was going over an old deep blue and two coats covered well and gave me a good base for using only two color coats of Fighting Lady Yellow.
2012-05-10ROBERT DARBY: I used it to overcoat west epoxy on a 17 foot wherry hull. The boat is plywood stitch and glue with one light coat of fiberglass. I found it took two coats of the Epoxy Primekote before I stopped breaking through as I sanded but the hull is not nearly as smooth as a molded fiberglass hull.
Hope that helps for what its worth.
Bob
2012-03-21A shopper asked: can i add a color addditve to the interlux 404 primer to have a contrast withmy snow white interlux perfection topcoat?
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2012-03-23CARL SALAMONE: Isn't primekote a primer? And thus intended to be covered with a colored topcoat? Why would you want to tint the primer? You could certainly call the folks at interlux, but I wouldn't mess with their mix. You'd hate to jeopardize the paint / primer bond by adding some outside component.
2012-03-24JENNIFER STOKES: Not sure but you can always ask interlux (yachtpaint). But I am fairly certain that they do not offer any additive. However I painted mine snow white and it already contrasted. The second coat of the snow white was more difficult. The primer is really a dull somewhat off white. Hope this helps.
2012-03-24LOZANO EDDIE: Yes, I do it all the time for my model RC jet plane.
2012-03-24JOHN BOECKEL: The hull of my Poke Boat was beginning to craze. Some years ago I pinted it with Interlux epoxy primekote. It has been in the North Crolina summer sun and winter cold for about 4 seasons now and shows no sign of deterioration, I do not know about color addatives.
John Boeckel
2012-03-25MATT ZAREMSKI: I don't know, but I also don't know why you'd want to do that. You can't sand perfection, and I've read you can't touch it up. If the primer were a contrasting color it would take a lot of coats to cover it. If you nicked the perfection, it would stand out like a sore thumb.
2012-03-27JACK PRICE: I think adding color to the prime coat is a good idea to give more depth to the final coat. Epoxy formulations are usually pretty robust and you can usually add a pigment to it without effecting the cure. But just to be safe, add pigment to a small quantity and allow it to cure fully to ensure that the pigment doesn't interfere with the epoxy reaction. The other alternative would be to contact an Interlux technical representative; they might be able to recommend a particular pigment.
2012-02-22NATHAN N asked: If I plan on Primekoting but not painting with Perfection for a month or two afterwards, is that alright? Do you need to put the finishcoats on within a certain timeframe? Will being exposed to the elements (after it has dried) cause any adherence issues when I do get to the finish coats??
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2012-02-22WILLIAM SHAMBARGER: Adam,I did not use Perfection after Primecoat.I would suggest contacting Interlux.
2012-02-22MATT ZAREMSKI: I don't know off hand but I think the primekote specs available here (or through google) would answer that.
2012-02-23STANLEY STRONG: stuff is pretty bullet-proof, but i wouldn't leave exposed to uv for
more than a month. interior-wise, good until you're ready.
2012-02-23PAVEL SHEVCHENKO: No it will not work this way. Yes exposure to elements, dirt etcetera will definitely affect quality and life of the paint job. The whole idea of a primecoat is to achieve the best possible bond between surface and finish coat. Timing is crucial. It is the best to apply next coat right after the previous is ready. Make sure you follow datasheets for all products from interlux web site. There is very nice painting guide on the same web site which explains all aspects of successful boat painting for all paints. Hope it was helpful
2012-02-02JIM BENWAY asked: What is the best way to dispose of this material when its been sitting around for three-four years?
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2012-02-02CARL SALAMONE: Mix the hardener in and let it dry...
2012-02-02DAN HOUSTON: 1. If it has been stored sealed up, it is still good.
You could
1. Use it
2. Give it to someone that can use it.
3. Mix the two parts together and when it cures dispose of it in accordance with
Local, State and Federal Regulations
See the mfg website:
TRANSPORTATION,STORAGE AND SAFETY INFORMATION
Storage TRANSPORTATION:
Epoxy Primekote should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage.
STORAGE:
Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Epoxy Primekote to be realised
ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5°C/40°F and 35°C/95°F. Keep
out of direct sunlight.
Safety
DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to
harden before disposal.
Remainders of Epoxy Primekote cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit.
Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities.
GENERAL: Read the label safety section for Health and Safety Information, also available from our Technical Help Line.
IMPORTANT NOTES The performance of any marine paint or coating depends on many factors outside the control of International Paint
LLC., including surface preparation, proper application, and environmental conditions. Therefore, International Paint
LLC. cannot guarantee this product's suitability for your particular purpose or application. IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF
FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND/OR MERCHANTABILITY ARE EXCEEDED. International Paint Inc.
SHALL NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. By
2012-02-03DENNIS ROBB: I am not an expert but will propose some options. Most epoxies that I have ever used recommend that you mix them, let them cure and throw them in the trash so this may be a viable option. I would contact Interlux tech support for confirmation. My first choice however would be to mix a small amount and see if it is still any good, if so, use it on a project that does not have a super critical need, even if aged it will likely be much better than any single part primer you could use.
2012-02-03JACK PRICE: Mix the two parts together and allow it to harden up, outside with the lid off, and then throw it out in the trash.
2012-02-03LOZANO EDDIE: I never had an experienced on keeping them for a while. If they are still good and you don't them I can take them away from you.
Thanks,
Eddie
2011-12-27A shopper asked: I have fiberglass hatch covers from a Grady White 20' walk a round 25 years old - 1986 mfg. I have sanded them down with 220 grit sand paper and washed them off with the garden hose - lot of water pressure to clean off sanding dust, also used paint thinner to clean then after water wash,then cleaned with soft dry cloth.All ready for painting now.The marina paint shop wants 250.00 each to paint these- i have seven off this boat.Very cold here in Ct., the only place i have to paint them is my basement next to the oil fired furnace which is on this time of year.I don't have a spray booth in my basement so i will do them with a roller and brush, primer & paint. They are off white in color and will be painted off White.Help me with what paint & primer to use with out blowing up the house painting next to the furnace?? Or should i have the marina do it and take me to the cleaners? Please Help Me With This Mess. Thank You Again. Tell me everything i need to do this job and i will give you an order for it or send me to the marina with my pants down. Ha Ha
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2011-12-27JIM DEVER: I used this PrimeKote on my 1969 Marinette hull and painted it with Interlux topside epoxy paint...but I did it outdoors. The Primekote and the final top paint was done using the roll & tip method and really does a nice job. As an old timer boat guy once told me..."you're not putting it in a museum, just paint it and use it".
That being said, the paint job using "roll & tip" method worked real well. Google it and you'll see how it's done. Basically roll on the paint (primer or finish coat) and "tip" which is blend the edges together with a real fine haired brush to eliminate roller edge marks. The Interlux top paint flows together quite well and with a brush you can eliminate most roller marks. Just don't do a too large and area before "tipping". Hatch covers should not have that problem.
If you crack a window open and stay at least ten or fifteen feet away from the furnace, you should be fine. Just keep the lid on the paint as much as possible. The thinners for clean-up are the real issue. I'd clean the brushes in the garage or outside...that's the real flame issue. And keep the rags outside or in the garage too. The thinners really smell and are highly flammable. Hope this helps.
2011-12-27DAN HOUSTON: I would not recommend doing this next to the furace. Surely you can find a space in the house that is warm for something as small as hatch covers.
Perhaps the kitchen counter top. Just send your wife off with a gift card to go shopping . It is easier to get forgiveness than permission anyway.
Put a blue tarp down and work on top of that. Work slowly and carefully and you won't make a mess. Use a little 3 inch foam roller with a small plastic roller pan. I promise you it will work just fine. Be sure that the paint and cure has been inside and is warm before you mix. Pay attention to all the mixing instructions. For small batches I use small plastic drinking cups then pore all into a plastic yogart or coffee container to mix well. Let it have the proper induction time.
Use the little foam roller and tip it with a brush to get the bubbles out.
You can do this and it will turn out fine. If this was here in my shop I would be happy to do it for $40.00 so $500 is way out of line.
Capt Dan
2011-12-27CHRISTOPHER PLONSKY: I'm painting a 1987 Jefferson 42 that has been outside in Florida its whole life. Since surface preparation takes up 95 percent of the time and effort I recommend you wait for better weather and do the priming and painting out doors. I prop my small pieces up on "painters pyramids." The best application technique I have found is to use the small (1" dia) ultra smooth foam rollers and put multiple coats of paint on very thin. (I buy the contractors multi pack and change the rollers every 1/2 to 1 hr.) Use the organic fumes mask, safety glasses, wear protective gloves, a long sleeve shirt and long pants. If you overcoat in less than 24hrs there is no need to sand between coats. Be sure to follow the recommendations about shading the surface if possible and thinning .
I would strongly recommend against using the primer and paint indoors especially near a furnace.
The fumes will probably permeate the whole house. (Read the MSD's on both the primer and paint concerning toxicity. You can get them off the Interlux web site. Adequate ventilation and protection gear are very important for personal safety.) I actually mix batches of primer and paint in a 3 car garage with the doors open and a large ventilation fan. I wear a 3M organic fumes mask. But when I take off the mask the fumes are pretty strong and take a long time to dissipate entirely. Spreading primer or paint with a roller in an enclosed area will make the outgassing worse . I don't know what concentration level is explosive, but I would recommend only mixing and using the primers and paints outdoors away from opn flames.
I hope this answers some of you questions.
2011-12-27CHRISTIAN SEGER: My son and I are building a 12' catboat (stitch and glue plywood with fiberglass overlay) and are preparing the fiberglass now for painting. We are using the Jamestown Epoxy Primer to good effect. Be advised that this two part primer produces very strong fumes, and I think doing it near your furnace would be catastrophic. It's pretty cool here now in Houston, and our solution might be one for you to employ. We put together a paint booth composed of tarps that I bought at Home Depot. They come in heavy duty and light duty, get the latter; a 12' x 16' tarp is about $35. Using some 2 x 4's, scissors, and a staple gun, you can make a small paint booth outside your house and heat it with a cheap little electric heater sufficient to bring the temp up to around 55 F. while the primer cures. I would strongly suggest getting a mask that handles vapors because the fumes are dangerous for your lungs. Also, when you order the primer, make sure you order the 2333N solvent too, which is used to dilute the primer that comes almost gelatinous in the can. One can has provided enough diluted primer to cover the bottom and sides of our 12' catboat twice. Use that to judge your needs for the hatch covers. I'll bet you can buy the whole deal-- paint, tarp, heater, and wood to construct the tent for much less than what the marina wants for one hatch cover. Just be sure to do all this OUTSIDE! It's so messy for the neighbors when a house blows up.
2011-12-27LOZANO EDDIE: I primarily use this material to prime my fiber glass model airplane. I tried once to paint in the basement but never again due very strong fumes and will give you migrane headache. The question is, " Help me with what paint & primer to use with out blowing up the house painting next to the furnace" I don't think it's going to blow up your when using this material.
I don't really know the properties, but if we mixed them part "A" and part "B"
outside your house , not close to the furnice you should be OK.
Wear a good resperator if you going to do the job in the basement.
I hope i answered your question
Eddie Lozano
2011-12-27MATT ZAREMSKI: How big are these hatch covers? $250 each sounds pretty steep. Crazy steep in fact, especially since most of the work is in the prep and you've done that.
I don't think you'll find any paint that won't blow up your house if there's a flame nearby. Even if the paint doesn't, the thinner will. At any rate, I wouldn't risk it. The garage maybe, but not the house.
Based on the price they quoted you, I'm assuming you're planning on using a 2 part LPU. II've rolled and tipped that in 40 degrees with good results using Epoxy Primekote and Perfection.
There are a ton of DIY instructional videos to roll and tip LPUs on youtube, many from Jamestown Dist. Between youtube and google you'll find a lot of info on how to do it and what you'll need. One tip I can give you is that solvent resistant foam brushes left a better finish after tipping than expensive badger hair brushes. They may work for pros, but they didn't work for me.
You'll also need foam rollers. I bought 9" ones from a big box store and cut them in half with a razor knife to use on a 4" roller frame.
Once you get everything together you should be able to do all 7 at once. Between the primer and topcoats you should be able to get the job done in 3 days so you can get started when the temp is reliably above 40 and still have plenty of boating season left.
2011-12-28JOANN TOPOLSKI: No, you can't. I'm glad you are asking. Industrial marine paints have serious solvents. Fume as well as fire risks are substantial and can't be controlled sufficiently in your situation.
Your only options are latex or water-based acrylic, both of which are fine for weather resistance but not for abrasion resistance.
Frankly, it is wiser to wait until spring with safe and good drying conditions. If the hatches are already off and your boat remains safe now, why rush it?
2011-12-28JOHN BOECKEL: I used Interlux epoxy Prime Coat on my fiberglass Poke Boat (kayak) which was beginning to craze. It went on well and has lasted for several years of use and exposure to North Carolina summer sun without ill effects.
Joh Boeckel
2011-12-28GRANT WORSLEY: For $250/ea I'd absolutely do them myself, there is no way they can justify that price as I'm sure they would set up and do them all at one time. The Interlux epoxy is very easy to use and it has quite an amount of thickener in the formula which allows for easy fairing of minor scratches etc. Both the primer and the single part epoxy are flammable so don't be dumb and do this around an open flame. For what you would pay the boat yard to do this you can easily justify paying someone to use their garage for two or three days. Use an electric space heater to warm the place up to about 70 or 75 deg. You should also invest in an "organic" dust mask to eliminate dying brain cells from the fumes. Put an ad for the garage on "craig's list".
Went on really well with a brush, but it has to be thinned. I found conflicting instructions online. Doesn't run too badly, covers the square footage they claim. The smell is awful. ...Read complete review
Went on really well with a brush, but it has to be thinned. I found conflicting instructions online. Doesn't run too badly, covers the square footage they claim. The smell is awful. Wear a mask and/or have a good breeze going!
VS
Most Liked Negative Review
Not as easy as advertised
I originally used this product based upon some recommendations from moderately experienced people who have applied 2 part Epoxy LPU's. It was very thick and required much thinning even at 60F. My best results ...Read complete review
I originally used this product based upon some recommendations from moderately experienced people who have applied 2 part Epoxy LPU's. It was very thick and required much thinning even at 60F. My best results were to go thin on the coats with 25% thinner. It was very difficult to tip and settle. Very noxious fumes even with respirator since 10% still make it past the 3M VOC cartridges (according to 3M).
I've switched gears and went with the single part LPU's. OK because it's just the deck smooth sides. I know it won't last like the 2 part LPU, but single part LPU's are less toxic for people and the planet and easier to apply.
I've used alot of different products and painted alot of stuff if my time. This was the first time I ever rolled anything, Ive always sprayed. It's thick like the old laquers, stir the base and activator seperatly then combine, then thin, It was about 80degrees when i was aplying it so i thinned it 25 percent with the brushing reducer as instructed on the can and achieved good results. I rolled it out with a foam roller and did not tip. It did dry with an orange peel finish but you have to sand it anyway. It sands easily and feathers out really nice. It takes about 3 coats to hide any filler you may have behind it. All in all its just like any other quality paint but the best part about it is the price. Its cheaper than others I've used in the past and is no better or any worse. You cant go wrong.
9/16/2012
5.0
Read Directions + Effort = Great Results
By mjf4ster
from Lockport, NY
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Covers Well
Fills
Good Working Time
Cons
Tougher To Sand
Best Uses
Over Old Gelcoat
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
I did much reading and spoke to a couple folks at marine stores before buying. I also found a couple YouTube videos on Interlux products before selecting Epoxy Primekote to go over old gel-coat. The research was a wise investment as the results so far are great. I have some experience with autmotove paint systems and expected more spot filling. I misted a shadow coat of dark sandable primer over my first coat of Epoxy. I'm block sanding with 220 and I'm finding that this primer - even thinned 25% - filled in so many small imperfections that I believe my second coat will be the last. It does sand harder than automotove primer, but it is an epoxy so that's to be expected. That same toughness will help you from sanding through edges. Use lots of water when sanding - it really helps. I intend to cover with 2-part urethane.
6/5/2012
2.0
A tough but dangerous primer
By B
from New York
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Cons: Epoxy Primekote contains numerous known neurotoxins (xylene) and carcinogens (benzene). Use only with a full face mask respirator with organic solvent cartridges (e.g. 3M 6000/7000 series cartridges), shave your shave and check to make sure you've got a good seal, wear a tyvek suit, good gloves and ensure as much ventilation as possible as the organic solvent cartridges can only filter out the solvents if they're below a certain concentration. Covering up as much skin as possible is important because these solvent go right through your skin and into your bloodstream. DO NOT FOLLOW THE PROCEDURES OF THE GUY IN THE Jamestown Distributors video who only wears gloves, a suit and safety goggles in a closed, poorly ventilated shop. These are seriously nasty chemicals that can do lasting harm. Interlux and Jamestown should emphasize this much more!!
Also, if you're laying down multiple coats of this stuff, its a real bear because it doesn't level well and require lots of arduous sanding.
Pros: Its tough and covers imperfections (deck crazing) well.
3/12/2012
4.0
exactly as described, don't be discourag
By Nick the....well, you know
from landlocked
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Superior protection
Cons
2 part
Best Uses
Large Areas
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Just put the first coat on a 13' plywood dingy as a primer to interlux perfection. I have to say that after reading poor reviews about mixing, coverage, and being sceptical overall, I am very pleased with this product. Read a review about the base being thick; read several about having to thin. READ THE LABEL. It specifically says "must thin 20-25%". Once mixed and thinned this goes on as easy as any marine paint. I highly recommend this system, the varnish has provided superior results already!
3/19/2011
(0 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
2.0
Base is not a Liquid
By JB
from Williamsburg, VA
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Adheres well
Cons
Base not pourable
Best Uses
Small Areas
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Shame on Interlux and JD for not advising the user that the base is NOT a liquid. It's a gel, and does not pour. I shook the large can and heard no liquid. When I opened the can, I thought that the base had congealed and was no good. Two very long trips to West Marine, and we found the same thing in other cans. Store called Interlux and was told that the soft lard-like consistency was normal!!! A real pain when you are trying to mix a partial batch for a small job. Very disappointed.
11/28/2010
(1 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
2.0
Fumes are horrible
By ptp
from Michigan
About Me Casual Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Cons
Messy
Best Uses
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Don't let the videos on the site fool you. People are rolling/brushing this stuff on with no respirators on. You need high end respirator to use this product the way they say with the brushing thinner. Never used anything with this bad fumes in my life.
4/25/2010
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Excellent product
By ET
from Saint Johns, Florida
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Easy to use
Even Paint Distribution
Good coverage
Great barrier
Sandable
Cons
Messy
Best Uses
Detailed Work
Large Areas
Small Areas
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Great product. All paints and primers are messy and virtually all to some degree will have an odor. As someone who has painted hundreds of cars and many boats I can say that it doesn't make sense to list strong smell as a con ( I have read this on reviews by others). This is rated for above or below water line which makes it great for all applications. It;s also very sandable and can be used for leveling as well as barrier coating.
1/18/2010
(3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
4.0
When all else fails read the instruction
By BIG DUMMY
from FL
About Me Beginner
Pros
Cons
Messy
Best Uses
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
I did not thin as described and I had all sorts of brush strokes!
12/17/2009
(0 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
2.0
Not as easy as advertised
By CH
from Alameda
About Me Beginner
Pros
Adheres well
Drys quickly at 55F
Good brochures
Sand easily
Cons
Did not level well
Required much thinner
Respiratory hazard
Best Uses
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
I originally used this product based upon some recommendations from moderately experienced people who have applied 2 part Epoxy LPU's. It was very thick and required much thinning even at 60F. My best results were to go thin on the coats with 25% thinner. It was very difficult to tip and settle. Very noxious fumes even with respirator since 10% still make it past the 3M VOC cartridges (according to 3M).
I've switched gears and went with the single part LPU's. OK because it's just the deck smooth sides. I know it won't last like the 2 part LPU, but single part LPU's are less toxic for people and the planet and easier to apply.
10/12/2009
(4 of 4 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Great Stuff!
By Capt. Chuck
from Duxbury, MA
About Me Casual Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Covers Well
Easy application
Even Paint Distribution
Excellent with Perfection
Lightweight
Cons
None Great Product
Best Uses
Detailed Work
Large Areas
Small Areas
Comments about Interlux Epoxy Primekote:
Used on a 13'Boston Whaler along with Perfection Paint. The results were terrific! IF using the roller and brush tip method be sure to thin using 2333N with a 25% mixture. If you dont,it'll be too thick and not flow well leaving brush marks. Other wise, just follow the instructions, it's a fairly easy product to use and to get terrific results with! (Add thinner after letting the mixture sit for 20 minutes just before application!)
Price Match Promise:
If you find a lower delivered price on a new identical item in stock and available for purchase from an authorized U.S. merchant.
- email us at pricematch@jamestowndistributors.com. This offer does not include special coupons or other promotional offers.
Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
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