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Groco In-line Bronze Ball Valves
Rugged, Bronze body construction designed for long service in the harsh marine environment.
Features:
Patent-pending field reversible handle allows you to select the closed position orientation (clockwise or counterclockwise) that best suits the installation.
Handle has square hole to accept standard ratchet, to ease valve actuation in hard-to-reach locations.
400 WOG Rated
Full pipe-size flow
Connections are NPT (tapered thread)
Stainless steel stem, handle and hardware.
Chrome-plated solid brass ball.
PTFE seats and seals.
Bonding attachment.
$20.99
$20.99
$28.28
$26.75
$41.09
$62.18
$90.28
$130.68
$227.84
$319.98
$692.22
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UL Listed for fuel applications. (Note: ABYC H33.9.2 states fuel valves must have independent means of support. Groco Full-Flow Fuel Valves are the best option for compliance.).)
Fits IBVF for Seacock Application
BRAND:
Groco
Metal:
Bronze
Type:
Ball Valves
Questions & Answers about Groco In-line Ball Valves:
2012-01-15SKIP LUCAS asked: The "handle" just broke off the seacock which is below the sinks in the galley. Although sort of "green", the boat is a 43' 1991 Hunter sailboat, the rest of the fitting through the hull appears solid. Do I have to replace the entire thru-hull and seacock or can I just replace the valve? Thanks.
+Expand Answers
2012-01-18SIMON CAPSTICK: Hi Skip,
if you can get it off, you could just replace the valve. These things are usually very hard to get off if they are old, as they corrode. One potential problem is that by trying to remove the valve, you may break the seal between the through-hull and the hull, i.e. if you turn the through hull by torquing hard on the valve, it will not longer be watertight. Of course, this has to be with the boat out of the water, as once you remove the valve you have no way of stopping water from coming in, fast!
I had to replace the engine intake through-hull on my boat, and no way was I getting that valve off any other way than cutting it off with a Dremel tool. I ended up opting for the clever Groco flange with a triangular base. I put three quarter inch by 1 inch wood screws through the flange into the 1/2-inch thick backing plate, after screwing it down onto the new Groco through-hull (this was allowed to set up first for 24 hours with fast-cure 5200, and someone held pliers inside the through-hull on the outside of the boat while I did this, to stop it from turning) and onto a little sealant on the backing plate. Once the screws were in place, I could install the Groco valve without any worry of turning the through-hull, and if in the future I need to replace the valve (again, out of the water!) I won't have to worry about breaking the seal on the through hull!
Hope this helps, Simon
2012-01-18SIMON CAPSTICK: Sorry, that is 1/4" X 1" wood screws.
2012-01-18VINCENT MCNAMARA: Groco inline ball valves is the heading of this request which is what I believe the question is asked about. However from the sound of things you have a seacock thru hull which is where the handle broke off from. Most of the time it is possible to replace the handlle if there has been no damage to where it attaches to the seacock. If you inspect the seacock and find that you cannot repair or replace the handle then you will probably need to replace the entire unit. On my and many other boats I find that seacocks have been replaced two part through hull fittings that have a threaded end where a threaded inline ball valve with handle can be connected as a two part system with the added advantage of being able to unscrew the ball valve if the handle breaks or malfunctions. This makes it possible to replave the valve easily with out hauling the boat out of the water for repairs. As a safety precaution I also always have a tapered wooden plug attached to the whole assembly with a short lanyard for plugging the hole to be close by in case there is ever any chance of having the valve break away by corrosion or accident. As far as cost goes I think that although there are two pieces of hardware involved they can be installed for less than most seacocks. Another preventitive measure is to ground all of the metallic fittings to help prevent corrosion. You need to consult a qualified marine electrician to be sure of doing this correctly however, which could prevent this from ever happening again in the future... Vincent
2012-01-28WAYNE ROBERTS: Skip,
A difficult question without seeing what you have. If it is a seacock the valve is integral with the fitting and the whole thing will have to be replaced. If it is a through-hull fitting with a nipple and ball valve, you can replace the nipple (if not integral to the through hull) and ball valve if the rest if the fitting is solid.
Make sure you use a bronze (not brass) nipple. Usually by the time you unscrew the valve it will be ovbious if the through-hull fitting is solid.
Since it is below the waterline, if in doubt replace the whole thing.
Wayne
2011-12-28WALLY MALLETT asked: This valve has a brass ball, how much of an electrolysis problem will this valve be?
+Expand Answers
2011-12-28STEVE PHILLIPS: The ball is Highly polished and appears to be stainless or chrome over brass. I have not had a problem with this product.
Steve P.
2011-12-28PETER SNIECKUS: ironically, i just read a very complete article on this yesterday !! it is in the Jan/ Feb 2012 (brand new) issue of WoodenBoat magazine... the article is titled " SEACOCKS", and it begins on page 24... they talk about "de-zincification " of brass components... which i was unaware of till i read this article.... i will be checking my valve frequently !!
pete s.
2011-12-28STEVEN MINNICH II: My new ones haven't experienced any sticking of freezing closed. . .and some on the boat are going on 8 years old and work fine. . .these have been around for years, I'm sure an electrolysis problem would have surfaced by now ;)
2011-12-29ANDREA DELENA: Wally,
I am not a marine professional, just another idiot outfitting his boat, haha! I can't say whether this valve will be more of a problem than the ones I took out (electrolysis was not the reason I replaced them,) but I will add that I plan to bond all of the metal thruhulls/valves. Once they are all properly bonded to a ground I can't see why they would be more of a problem than a valve with a stainless ball?
Hope that helps you out.
Fair winds and following seas,
Andre
2011-12-29WILLIAM ADAMS: Zero if you keep your zincs up to date
Application: fuel system, sailboat, diesel. I found the valve adapted to my design needs and exceeded my needs. It is a well engineered design, has installation flexibility, and is sturdy, perfect for a boat and its tough environment.
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