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Layup and Laminating Epoxy is specifically designed for ease of use in resin and fiberglass composite construction. Made by Smiths, famous for their clear penetrating epoxy sealer, it is exceptionally compatible with wood, fiberglass, and epoxy boat construction. Ideally suited for glass layup on hulls where blister repair requires additional work.
Curing at temperatures as low as 28 F, lLaminating epoxy is easy and forgiving to use with its one to one (1:1) mix ratio. Derived from wood resins, it is not brittle, but flexible and will bend with wood or fiberglass. No amine blush.
Note: While it is appropriate for layup work and laminating wood, it is not intended for hardwoods.
$25.62
$52.67
$99.28
$272.58
$955.26
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This product is intended for fiberglass layup or laminating wood. This product is not intended for hardwoods.
Cure Schedule
Pot Life
Dry to Touch
Full Cure
28 Deg F
8 Hours
2 Days
16 Days
40 Deg F
4 Hours
1 Day
8 Days
55 Deg F
2 Hours
12 Hours
4 Days
70 Deg F
1 Hour
6 Hours
2 Days
100 Deg F
30 Minutes
3 Hours
1 Day
BRAND:
Smith and Co
Material:
Epoxy
Usage:
Laminating
Questions & Answers about Smiths Layup and Laminating Epoxy:
2013-03-08JOHN POWER asked: can this epoxy be thickened for use in overhead (deck re-core) applications? recommendations?
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2013-03-08ROBERT LEVELLE: I've thinned it with penetrating epoxy and thickened it with micro balloons with good results. if you're worried about it running and dripping I would probably go with a thicker epoxy to begin with. Like the other guy said "they seem to be all compatible". I'm surprised the makers don't publish more detailed info. Excellent product.
2013-03-11TOM ANTHONY: I am not sure how you would thicken it. My experience with it has been great, but I have been pouring it into cavities that could contain it. When mixed without additives it is about the consistency of molasses.
2013-03-25CHARLES MARSHALL: Yes, this can be thickened according to the rotdoctor's instructions. One method would be to remove the loose rot, dry, paint with cpes till it is no longer absorbed, let dry, use the thickened layup and a treated piece of replacement core as needed.
2012-02-19LEANDREW WILLIAMS asked: Im making a new bulk head and repairing a stringer.Can fiber glass be used over this product? and can I had anythings to it for extra strength? sawdust or chopped fiber glass.
thanks for your time
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2012-02-27ROBERT HINGER: This company, Smith & Sons, has a very informative website-- rotdoctor dot com, They are also very responsive by phone, to discuss individual situations.
2012-03-09BRIAN MULLIGAN: Leandrew,
You can put other fiberglass over this product as it is just another fiberglass product. I would not add anything to try to strengthen it. It is ok as is. It is a 50% mix and I would tend to stay with the same product.
My 2 cents.
Brian Mulligan
2011-12-13ROGER SMITH asked: will this product work well for scarfing plywood joints?
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2011-12-30BRIAN MULLIGAN: Scarfing the edge would mean to seal the edge I suppose. If this is correct, then yes it would work fine.
2012-01-27ROBERT HINGER: The L&L would work, and if you need to do your work in very cold temperatures (down to 28 degrees), that's would you should use. But it's not for hardwoods. If you're strictly gluing wood, hard OR soft, the Smith's Tropical hardwood epoxy resin glue, which cures down to 50 degrees F., would probably be a better choice. The prices are almost identical.
2011-11-16WILLIAM RICHARDS asked: Can I use Smiths Laminating Epoxy to Laminate a yellow pine keel?
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2011-11-16BRIAN MULLIGAN: Yes, Why not. Use patience.
2011-11-16PAUL MCDONALD: I would think it would be perfect and it's flexibility and ease of use are awesome also. I have used it for several repairs (large and small) including a rotted out cored roofdeck that is still holding up great after several years of use and exposure.
2011-11-17MARK JOHNSON: William,
First off I am NOT a professional. I am an experienced amateur. I love smiths layup epoxy resin. It is not temperature activated so it wont "kick" if the temp warms up during the day as your project progresses. However you need to be aware that this is a slow cure product and if you are working on a vertical or overhead surface you will need a means of holding the resin in place. ie a mold of some kind. The end result is much more flexible than other resins, and resists cracking. I have found other products too rigid and very prone to cracking under stress.
Hope this helps, Good luck!
2011-11-18ROBERT LEVELLE: Hi William, I've used most of the epoxies from JTDs and most recently Smiths. It really is all it's advertised to be. We have white pine out west here and it sticks like crazy to it as well as mahogany and lots of rotten old marine ply in a 1954 runabout I restored. I recently used Smiths laminating and the their penetrating epoxies to coat an old british motorcycle gas tank to protect against ethanol. I mixed the two types from 1:1, 2:1, and more and was incredibly pleased with the results. That being said I always do small test batches with wood sticks which I'd recommend also with your Long leaf, if any doubt or to increase adhesion maybe wash the mating surfaces with benzine or alcohol. Good luck, Robert.
2011-07-30A shopper asked: what do you think about this product , say compare to mas resin?
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2011-08-04DUKE FUZZELL: I've never used MAS resin, but the Smith's Layup and Laminating Epoxy sure helped out a soft deck that I had on a sailboat. I mixed up the epoxy and shot it through several holes and let it treat all the wrotten wood before adding epoxy and saw dust, which made the deck feel very strong and sturdy. May not be as good as a new deck, but worked very well for about a 2 ft by 2 ft soft spot on the deck of a sailboat. I would definitely recommend using their product exactly as they describe. I did and will continue to use their product again and again.
Duke
2011-08-04charlie zylstra: i have only used the west system products prior to this. i specifically chose this product because i needed to do a substantial amount of repair to a water logged and rotten balsa cored deck on my powerboat. this product is very, runny and you need to be careful to protect your eyes and hands as well as wear a respirator. even so, it was pretty easy to make a mess so be sure to mask off any areas that you don't want spill marks on as its very difficult to clean this up even when you have paper towels and acetone handy.
I felt the product worked very well for repairing my deck. I drilled many (hundreds) of 1/2 holes, let them dry out for about a month and then went back and poured the product into all the holes, multiple times over the course of about 2 weeks. Once the balsa had fully absorbed all the Smith CES that it was going to, i went back and filled the holes. I had planned to re-paint the deck anyways so this was probably the best way for me to do the repair. If I only had to repair a small area, I would probably have cut out the rotten areas from below and then just glued fresh balsa in place and epoxied over the repair. Doing the repair with the Smith CES allowed me to do everything from the top of the deck, which was much easier to access given how much repair I had to do.
2011-08-04FRED TOLER WOODWORK: We have used Smiths products in restoring two wooden boats as well as for repairs of wood parts & trim on others. We have been very happy with the results. Its easy to mix and work with. It will continue to have a place in our shop. Five star product.
2011-08-05KATHRYN BROWN: I don't know what mas resin is. We used this product to re-attach a fiberglass deck to new plywood. It worked well. It spread with the consistency of thick honey with a trowel. Somewhat self leveling. We primed the plywood surface with another smith product (2 part wood restorer) first so this resin would cover easier. Very happy with the way it all came out. Hope this helps you.
C. Brown
2011-08-05EDWARD KRUSE: I used this to repair some softspots in my deck. It worked great.
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