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Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend, and is used to aid in the restoration of rotted or deteriorated wood.
The epoxy resin system chemically adheres to the wood fibers and significantly strengthens them while allowing for normal expansion and contraction.
CPES is effective because it contains a special blend of solvents that penetrate deep into wood cellulose and fibers. When applied to rotten wood, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer changes the cellulose (which the bacteria and fungi find easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose that resists fungi, while reinforcing and restoring the wood.
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Two-part product, mix 1:1 equal parts of A and B by volume
Apply with brush, roller or immersion
Will cure down to 50°F
Makes excellent paint and varnish primer as it chemically bonds the finish deep inside the wood grain
Note: The 10 and 100 gallon size must ship via motor freight
Temperature
Warm Pot Life
Warm Full Cure
Cold Pot Life
Cold Full Cure
86°F/ 30°C
4 Hours
2 Days
Use Warm Formula
Use Warm Formula
68°F/ 20°C
8 Hours
4 Days
2 Hours
2 Days
50°F/ 10°C
16 Hours
8 Days
4 Hours
2 Days
32°F/ 0°C
Use Cold Formula
Use Cold Formula
8 Hours
4 Days
BRAND:
Smith and Co
Material:
Epoxy
Rate Of Cure:
Slow
Usage:
Woodrot
Questions & Answers about Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
2013-04-22A shopper asked: Can you stain over CPES?
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2013-05-14E STANTON ADKINS III: A penetrating stain will not work. The gel stains that could be used will not be very durable. If you want to stain, use a water based stain first, tnen the penetrating epoxy, then cover with a few coats of varnish
2013-05-14TOM PARSONS: I've gone both ways. I've stained over CPES with filler stains like Interlux Mahogany and under CPES with the same. I have not used the water stains, but know they are by far the most beautiful. My wood is old and I tend to cover up age rather than bring out new beauty. Don't even try to brush CPES over oil base stains. Mud results. I spray CPES over my stain with a HVLP gun, however Steve Smith says do not spray CPES as you will loose desired solvents. I've had problems with old (20 yrs)varnish removal with this system. Heat gun and putty knife tended to lift the grain. So my latest is to do what you are thinking and stabilize the wood first, then stain, then spray CPES on top to glue the stain, then varnish. My project is a 1939 19' Chris Craft.
2013-05-17CRAIG HOLBERGER: CPES is a sealer, I have varnished over CPES but have never tried stain.
2013-05-20ROBERT DIAK: You can apply a solid stain only.
I have stained with a penetrating stain first then applied the epoxy and it worked very well.
2013-04-22BRAD CHISHOLM asked: How much would I need to effectively cover 100 Sq Ft of plywood?
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2013-05-14E STANTON ADKINS III: Depends upon how porous the plywood is and how many edges you have. The cut edges will absorb a lot more than the faces.
2013-05-14TOM PARSONS: A two-quart kit would probably do, but I perfer to buy 2-gallon kits and have it available for all the fun uses I find for CPES. I've had previously opened cans for over 5 years with no problems.
2013-05-15CHARLES SCHROTER: I have no experience with plywood. My usage has been on weathered door and window trim and shutters on a vacation home. After scraping loose material off, I have treated 2 3'x4' storm shutters and the trim around 1 door and 9 small windows (2x2). I have roughly half the Epoxy left. It is very thin, unlike paint and needs to be applied carefully not to drip. The repainted surfaces are looking good after 2-3 years weather.
2013-05-20ROBERT DIAK: The 2 quart kit should do the job
2013-02-12CHUCK SCHAFSTALL asked: Can you use CPES on new wood, to protect it from excess moisture, as in a steam room ceiling?
Chuck
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2013-02-18ROBERT MACALUSO: Yes, I believe it would be very helpful. Remember, however that you will have to seal all 4 sides of the wood with CPES. Every time you puncture the wood with a fastener such as a nail or screw you have provided a pathway for the moisture to penetrate into the wood so minimal punctures would be in order.
I use CPES on many materials as a barrier coat and that is what you are trying to do here.
2013-02-18JAMES RIGNEY: I dont see why not. altho these rooms are usualy made of cedar and left with out a finnish. to allow for expansion and contraction
2013-01-31PETER OTOOLE asked: I'm building a plywood trailer and want to weatherproof it, your product was recommended. Can you give me the coverage rate please?
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2013-01-31E STANTON ADKINS III: The coverage rate depends upon the porosity of the wood. Edges will absorb alot more than surfaces. So it's hard to predict. Also, the CPES is only a sealer and must be followed with an appropriate varnish/ polymer.
2013-02-28PAUL MILLER: ES is right on, I keep applying the CPES until the surface remain wet looking. That can be 3 to 6 or 7 coats depending on how the wood. Soft woods tend to absorb more and hardwoods less.
There is no UV protection in the CPES so as said you need to cover it with something; paint or vanish.
I use it a lot to fill the grain and make the wood stronger. It makes a great base for the varnish even if you're doing furniture and not a boat.
Paul
2012-10-25DELMARVA BOJOS asked: can this be used to fill in soft spot repairs on a core deck? and if not do you have a product for soft spots that is just as easy to use?
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2012-10-25BOB BRYANT: No.but it should be used to prep the soft wood around the damaged area by filling the pores after you scrape away all the rot you can with a scraper. Then soak the remaining wood with CPES until it will take no more. After cure fill the area with thickened epoxy.
2012-10-25Delmarva Bojos: Thank You.
2012-10-25LARA GARRETT: The Smiths CPES epoxy is liquid and very runny. It fills long cracks, but will not fill a sizable hole. And I have put 9 coats on my new, south-facing mahogany back steps so far this year, and the coverage isn't holding up.
My husband uses a 2-part wood epoxy paste that comes in round cans and has the consistency of peanut butter for filling sizable rotten spots on exterior woodwork. It sands easily and takes stain/paint afterwards. And he uses a specifically-designed "Rot Terminator" epoxy wood hardener for repairing "spongy" parts of the porch floor.
Good luck.
2012-10-25STAN HESS: It will work if you let soak till it takes no more! Stan
2012-10-25DON CROWDER: Yes if you read the instructon that come with the product thay
tell how to do it Have a good day Don C.
2012-10-26HARRY BEGG: Go to the Smith's web site. They have "how to" instructions on how to use the CPES for Core Damage Repair. I haven't tried it myself but it sounds logical that it should work.
Harry B.
2012-10-23JIM M asked: How much do I need for 2 bare 30" mahogany doors?
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2012-10-24JEFFREY BRYANT: You might be able to squeek by with the 2 pint kit. The 2 quart kit will definitely be enough. Do two coats and pay special attention to letting the end grain really soak it up. Start the first coat of your finish roughly 24 hours after the second coat of CPES - ensures good adhesion before the CPES has a chance to cure.
2012-10-25WILLIAM DEHUFF: I guess it really depends on how rotted they are - the more rot, the more epoxy it would absorb. But I would think you would need at least a 2-pint set for each door.
2012-10-10A shopper asked: What is the difference between cold and warm CPES Epoxy ? Are they used for different purposes, why and when ?
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2012-10-12Kerry Souza: The different formulations of warm and cold are designed to be used and to cure correctly in different temperatures. The cold formula is designed to be used when your working temp is between 50-68 degrees and the warm formula is designed to be used when your working temp is 69-90 degrees. Thank You.
2012-09-10A shopper asked: I am repairing the bowsprit on my boat and I am inclined to use penetrating epoxy to seal the wood. Other sources say don't use epoxy because wood contracts and expands with the weather and needs to breathe. Also, will penetrating have an adhesive quality so it can be used where the wood is separated but not easily accessible?
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2012-09-10CHARLES LAWRENCE: CPES is the perfect way to start the repair on your bowsprit. Properly applied, it will prevent liquid water absorption into the wood, but not water vapor penetration. It stays flexible, and there will be no problems with expansion and contraction. Although it has adhesive qualities before it cures, it has a low solids content (the volatiles are what give it its great penetrating capability), and it would take a long time to buidl up enough to fill or glue together gaps. I suggest you use Smith's Tropical Hardwood Epoxy to fill inaccessible gaps, even accessible ones. Especially if the wood and epoxy are warm, the epoxy will wick into small gaps and wood cells beautifully, and it will fill large gaps as well. It remains flexible, with approximately the physical properties of wood itself. I've used it to fill gaps large and small in redwood (previously saturated with CPES) outside, with outstanding results: no cracks in a decade. Even a couple of year's exposure to sunlight didn't seem to faze it except for dulling of the surface, although epoxies need UV protection and I wouldn't leave it unprotected. Unlike stiff epoxy fillers that can be applied anywhere without running or sagging, the Tropical Hardwood Epoxy flows (that's what you need) and must be contained. Aluminum tape is useful to make small forms, but don't expect the stuff to flow uphill!
2012-09-10WAYNE HACHEY: Well lets think about it, wood expands & contracts because it is exposed to
moisture,the Smiths Epoxy takes care of that problem if you do a total encapsulation. If you need to bond wood layers together I think Smith makes a bonding Epoxy for that part of the job,but go ahead an seal the wood first.
Hope this has been helpful, Wayne
2012-09-11PHILIP G RASMUSSEN: Your question re: separated wood would best be raised with the manufacturer. there is little "filler" property with Smith's in terms of filling voids. I really like this stuff and have coated every piece of wood in the boat I am building. I can't see that it will inhibit expansion/contraction, but again, talk to Smith's about it.
2012-09-11BRAD WALSH: Hi;
As far as my experience with CPES goes, I would never do without it. I have a 52ft. CC under reno since 2006. Here's how I finished my mahogany brightwork. This is a wet on wet application. Sanded down to 80 grit. Soak CPES until wood will no longer absorb. Let CPES get to 6 to 8 hours dry time. Then 5 subsequent coats of West 105/207 wet on wet. (dry enough to touch or walk on, but not longer than 12hrs) Sand down the epoxy with 150 followed by 220. Bristol finish x 6 to 8 coats wet on wet. Ditto for the old worn out teak decks. The decks on my boat had been sanded down over the years to 3/8" thickness, basically a veneer. I removed all the rubber caulking, replaced over a thousand bungs including screws. Then I v-grooved the deck joints. Soaked the deck and joints with CPES, then filled them with West 105/207/404 tinted white. After I had a pro boat carpenter grind down the deck/epoxy joints to a totally smooth surface. I sanded off the minor grinder marks with 80grit. Soaked the deck with CPES then followed up with West 105/207 x 5 coats. Finished the decks with Bristol like the sides. Now the real story. After trying all kinds of finishes, I found that the CPES + West + Bristol was the best combo. In a nutshell. If you don't apply the CPES as the first coat no matter what finish you use, it will lift off of the wood surface at the first sign of moisture getting under what ever coating you put down. CPES is the "foundation" of a lasting moisture proof wood finishing system. Don't leave home without it.
Brad
2012-09-12TED SUNDIN: Without question, the penetrating epoxy will seal and protect the wood.
Considering the stresses on a bowsprit, I really can't comment on the advisability of using it in your application without more information regarding condition, type of sailboat, dimensions, etc.. I strongly recommend you contact Smiths directly and ask them. They will be sure to see you have just the proper material for your project.
Ted
2012-09-13ALAN SUGARMAN: I have used Smiths on my bowsprit the last couple of years.
I figure that it is a good way to get the sealer into any Dryrot.
I use a syringe and insert it into the seams and brush on the surface.
If you want the adhesive quality, then after getting the Smith's into the grain of the wood and any dry rotted area, you can fill the seams with West epoxy, again with a syringe.
Because there is no UV protection, I do this a couple of times a season.
I would contact Smith's directly and see what they think.
Also, Smith;s is not epoxy as such but an epoxy based sealer. West epoxy will not penetrate into the grain except on the surface.
2012-08-28A shopper asked: Is it advisabel to use CPES on new, kiln dried lumber used for exterior furniture? Can it be appled after a stain coat?
+Expand Answers
2012-08-28WILLIAM STIRLING: I've used CPES in a number of applications. The one closest to yours is on the mahogany transom of my Cape Cod catboat. I sanded it down to bare wood and then used some stain to bring back the reddish color. I then applied two coats of CPES to seal the wood and finished it off with nine coats of varnish to protect it all from the UV rays. Each spring I lightly sand it and put two coats of varnish on. It still looks great after five years.
2012-08-29TROY CAIN: ok to use oj new cleaned lumber
not advisible to use over stain
2012-08-29TOM PARSONS: Yes, I would use CPES kiln dried lumber for exterior furniture.
Use a test piece to see if you can apply it over your stain without it turning to mud. Put it on and move on. Don't over work it. If that isn't successful, you might try what I do and that is to spray it over the stain. Steve Smith never recommends spraying CPES due to the undesireable loss of solvent carriers, but I've had success doing it. You will need to topcoat the CPES. I recommend two coats Sikkens Cetol 1 followed by one coat 23.
2012-08-30ROBERT LIBBY: I didn't use it on stained wood. I used it on my boat that is in the weather all the time. It is still working well.
2012-08-26JOHN MACIELAG asked: what are the temperature ranges for using either the warm or the cold weather versions?
+Expand Answers
2012-08-30NIALL FINNEGAN: John,
The ranges are printed on the back of the can. The curing time is what is critical. I had to wait for four days for one piece to finish out gassing. If I had used the war weather formula I could have cut the time to two days. Good luck.
2012-08-31J T MARSHALL: we use the standard product at all temps with good results
hot summer and cold to 32 or so
I use it to protect my wood boats. Most recently, the windshield of my 1962 Cruiser's Inc. Also did the transom and bottom and am preparing to do the bench seat. This pro...Read complete review
I use it to protect my wood boats. Most recently, the windshield of my 1962 Cruiser's Inc. Also did the transom and bottom and am preparing to do the bench seat. This product is widely used buy the members of my Antique boat club with great satisfaction.
VS
Most Liked Negative Review
It's OK
I purchased both the warm and cold version for a few projects, the penetration is excellent however it's so thin it does not provide any structural help even on lightly rotted wood. The scale ...Read complete review
I purchased both the warm and cold version for a few projects, the penetration is excellent however it's so thin it does not provide any structural help even on lightly rotted wood. The scale (and cost) of the projects I had lead me to this product and if I had it to do over I would have used BoatLife's GitRot as I have before on other smaller projects. Even though its more expensive, it provides a better, stronger result. My best comparison would be that this product would make all the individual fibers strong in a rotted area, but still leaving them individual, requiring additional reinforcement(as they state in the directions) where GitRot makes all the rotted fibers a solid mass (it's a little thicker). The mass is much stronger than each fiber strengthened, and does not require as much or any additional reinforcement. GitRot penetrates well, and cures much faster than the Smith's
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
Used CPES epoxy to stabilize exterior beam affected by dry rot. It penetrates rot and wood very well. I was able to inject about a quart of the product into a section of the beam through cracks using syringe. Can't comment on the durability yet.
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4/24/2013
5.0
Nothing else compares to this product
By Rod
from Dallas, Texas
About Me Professional
Pros
Easy to Use
Fantastic Primer On Wood
Fantastic Sealer Wood
Great Endgrain Sealer
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
expensive
Best Uses
Indoor
Outdoor
Quick Fix
Wood Trim
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
seal end grain prior to applying epoxy... offers deeper penetration and a higher level of moisture protection as it soaks in deeper in the end grain than plain epoxy. Offers a very strong bond to epoxy applied afterwards.
IT has a strong odor and is too expensive.,
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4/7/2013
5.0
Excellent Wood Sealer
By Ray
from Phoenix, AZ
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
expensive
Best Uses
Seal Or Repair Wood Rot
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
After 27 years in the desert heat I applied CPES to the wood which makes up the back and bottom of the front/rear seats before having them re-covered. I also applied the product to the back of the side panels. Although CPES is expensive, it was less money then replacing all of the wood and I still would have had to seal the new wood too. One seat bottom was warped. I applied two coats, placed the wood face down on a flat surface covered with plastic and weighted the seat down overnight. The seat returned to flat & stayed flat. Drys to a hard resin. Like applying water not thick like resin or paint and it penetrates new or old wood deeper then resin. Order enough to build it up especially on older dry wood. Much Easier to work with compared to thinned out resin.
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3/31/2013
5.0
Useful for all marine restoration projec
By Jim
from Sheboygan, Wisconsi
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
A Great Product For Resto
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Cons
Best Uses
Outdoor
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
A great product for restoration projects such as my 1948 Chris Craft. It gives old wood many more years of useful life. Pricy but worth it.
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3/25/2013
4.0
great for New or Old work
By NFK
from Atlantic Highlands, NJ
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
Works well as a primer for new wood to be painted but with the added weather-ablity
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2/8/2013
5.0
Smith Warm CPES Epoxy
By The Wood Worker
from Little Rock, AR
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Lots of fumes
Best Uses
Outdoor
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
I recently read an article about using CPES with Epifanes wood varnish for outdoor wood furniture. So far, the finish looks great using a combination of CPES and Epifanes. According to reviews, this combination will provide a very durable and long lasting exterior finish for wood.
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2/6/2013
5.0
Excellent for wood restoration
By Silverton 34C
from Norwich, Conn.
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Weather Proof
Cons
Stong Odor
Best Uses
Virtually Any Wood
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
Smith's CPES has been around for years and is well known to wood boat owners. The 50-50 mix of this two part liquid is easy to apply to deteriorated or soft wood. When allowed to soak in and dry thoroughly, a number of coats can be applied. I've found that CPES also makes a great base before applying varnish or Sikken Cetol when simply refinishing rather than rehabilitating wood.
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11/14/2012
5.0
Penetrating epoxy
By Meistro
from Los Angeles
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Outdoor
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
I use this stuff as a primer for hatchcovers and lazarette cover on my sailboat. It provides a varnishable surface much better than starting varnish without it.
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10/7/2012
5.0
Super Product!
By Bruce J.
from Chesapeake Bay, VA
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
High Viscosity-like H2o
Penetrates Extremely Well
Protects Well
Cons
Best Uses
New Wood Prep
Outdoor
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
I used CPES to seal new marine plywood--two coats came out just like glass. This will be the base for Interlux paint.
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10/3/2012
5.0
A staple in my shop
By Jazz the fish
from Newport, RI
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Warm CPES Epoxy:
It is a staple for sealing wood. It works exactly as promoted. I don't think the odor is as strong as others make it out to be, but good ventilation is a very good idea.
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