We are committed to delivering
the perfect order - on time and hassle free.
Fast and reliable -- Jamestown Distributors will ship anywhere in the world.
Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend, and is used to aid in the restoration of rotted or deteriorated wood.
The epoxy resin system chemically adheres to the wood fibers and significantly strengthens them while allowing for normal expansion and contraction.
CPES is effective because it contains a special blend of solvents that penetrate deep into wood cellulose and fibers. When applied to rotten wood, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer changes the cellulose (which the bacteria and fungi find easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose that resists fungi, while reinforcing and restoring the wood.
The 10 and 100 Gallon size must ship via motor freight
$34.99
$58.99
$194.99
$802.38
$7,574.80
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
CPES is a two-part product.
Mixes 1:1 equal parts of A and B by volume.
Apply with brush, roller or immersion.
Makes an excellent paint and varnish primer as it chemically bonds the finish to the wood.
Developed for repairs like restoration of deteriorated wood, repair of osmosis-damaged fiberglass boats, and/or coating that sometime must be done in winter.
CPES Cold Weather Formula was designed to be used in the temperature range of 28-65°F.
Curing Schedule
Temperature
Warm Pot Life
Warm Full Cure
Cold Pot Life
Cold Full Cure
86 F/ 30 C
4 Hours
2 Days
Use Warm Formula
Use Warm Formula
68 F/ 20 C
8 Hours
4 Days
2 Hours
2 Days
50 F/ 10 C
16 Hours
8 Days
4 Hours
2 Days
32 F/ 0 C
Use Cold Formula
Use Cold Formula
8 Hours
4 Days
BRAND:
Smith and Co
Material:
Epoxy
Rate Of Cure:
Fast
Usage:
Woodrot
Questions & Answers about Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
2013-05-17A shopper asked: need to repair a 24in by 18in section on a swim platform . how much will i need?
+Expand Answers
2013-05-20JEFFERY VOGEL: I would say that it depends on the condition of the swim platform. I think that one can should be plenty.
Make sure after application that put a number of coats of a varnish to protect it from the sun.
2013-05-08WAYNE ELLIOTT asked: how many square feet does it cover?
+Expand Answers
2013-05-08PHILIP G RASMUSSEN: I used in small batches so really have no idea. Smiths may be able to answer.
2013-05-08LEE NEWCOMBE: It would depend on how many coats you put on, and what level of penetration you require. A little goes a long way. I purchased the 2 gallong kit, and it lasted me 3 year as I restored a 36 foot Chris Craft.
2013-05-08WEST CHOP CLUB C/O TIM HOYT: It would be next to impossible to answer this question due to the many differnt types of wood and their condition.
2013-05-08GREG HOPKINS: Hard to estimate. It depends on the absorbtion rate of the wood being covered. We use it as a sealer for mahogany when doing brightwork. Stabilizes wood grain and provides a strong bond to varnish. Two coats with varnish within 24 hours.
2013-05-09Paul Draper: The smallest set of cans will only do a couple of square feet at best.
2013-05-09WAYNE ELLIOTT: Are we talking about the same thing? Two pints make one quart as listed in your catalog. One quart will cover only two feet? What planet are you living on?
2013-05-10Paul Draper: Yes, we are talking about the same think Captain Kirk. Before you go off slamming where I live you might want to try some yourself and see first hand just how far it goes. I used one full quart on two (2) three rung 18 inch long hand rails which would add up to a total area of about one (1) square foot. Half of the material is in solvents which flash off. If you tried to use this product on old porous wood that measures two (2) square feet, a gallon might work. You asked a question, I provided an accurate answer. Thanks for the lesson on how much is in a quart. From this, I can see you made it to grade 5.
2013-05-10WAYNE ELLIOTT: Your application sets new records in coverage. I found that my back door neighbor prepped a 4X8 sheet of veneered plywood and has enough left over for my needs with a quart. Your application sounds like you "cold molded" it.
2013-05-10TED SUNDIN: I have used it as a primer before varnishing on new plywood and pressure treated pine. It seems to give about 100 square feet per quart or about the same as most paints and varnishes.
Old wood would be a matter of the wood condition but I would expect a dramatic reduction in coverage. All depends on the wood condition.
Good luck on your project,
Ted
2013-05-10WAYNE ELLIOTT: Ted: Many thanks. I did not want to have a gallon of the stuff hanging around and polymerizing. Your estimate sounds quite reasonable.
2013-05-10TED SUNDIN: Thanks for the note Wayne. I recently made a new mounting pad for my "kicker" motor bracket out of plywood scraps and sealed it with some left over CPES that was over a year old. Worked fine, so if you do end up with a dab left over, and you can store the containers at room temp, it's worth saving. Ted
2013-04-18A shopper asked: The deck lid on my 83 whaler has several screw holes are stripped out. There appears to be moisture that has been traveling down the loose screws and has rotten the wood.
What do you think I should do to fill the void so I can use the screw holes to secure the deck?
Keep in mind that its only 3 screws holes and im sure to pull the deck in a year for repair.
+Expand Answers
2013-04-26TED ZOLI: CPES is a perfect product to saturate the wood. Keep adding it to the screw holes until they cannot accept any more. To hold the screws is another matter. There are lots of fillers but I think the TWO COMPONENT wood fillers made by different folks - I use a Minwax brand - is best packed into the holes with a putty knife. Before the set is rock solid, thread the screws in with nothing attached and let it cure out. That way you will not crack the filler when you attach it for real. When attaching make sure you "find" the threads as opposed to making new ones. Clean everything with 202 and 5200 the lid down. It will last forever!! Clean the 5200 up with paper towels and mineral spirits WHILE IT IS WET!
Good luck.
2013-04-26JOEL HORNE: You'll need a one inch dowel and a one inch forsner bit. Drill down to but not through the interior fiberglass. Pour epoxy resin in hole and insert dowel plug cut to proper length to allow epoxy to cover it fair with deck.
2013-04-26NATHAN STEELE: Hi there,
First I would read the instructions Gougeon has for core repairs which involve removing rotted material and replacing with some combination of thickened epoxy. I have had pretty good results for low load applications by saturating a piece of ordinary sponge with silica thickened epoxy and inserting it into the void created after the rotted wood is removed. The smiths would only be called for as a rot stopper once the rot is removed. It would do little to improve the security of a fastener.
Best regards,
Nate
2013-04-29CARLSON DEANGELIS: I would apply a small amount of Smiths penetrating epoxy(let dry) to the holes to get to the rotted wood...then fill the holes with Smiths epoxy putty...let dry...then refasten....
2013-03-22A shopper asked: What is the difference between the warm and cold smiths epoxy? We are not sure which to order>
+Expand Answers
2013-03-25JIM HABERLY: Use the cold weather formula if the temperature is 50 degrees F or below.
You can visit smithandcompany DOT org SLASH CPES for more info. Sorry for the cryptic data, no links allowed here.
2013-03-25DOMINIC FIASCHETTI: You can visit the Smith's site to get answers to all your questions. Typically the warm weather formula does not perform well below 50 deg.F. It will stop performing below 40 deg. F. If you are expecting temps to drop below 50 F., use the cold weather.
2013-03-25THOMAS STEARNS: Epoxies are sold as two-part systems consisting of a resin and a hardener and cure by a chemical reaction. All chemical reactions are affected by temperature and as a rule of thumb run at twice the speed for every increase in temperature of 10C or 18F.
A more active hardener is used in a "cold" system because its' increased activity causes the curing reaction to run at a useable speed even at lower temperatures. In warmer working areas a lower-energy hardener is a better choice because otherwise the reaction may run too fast and not give enough time for the mixed system to be placed where you want it. Hence two different systems, one with a slower cure for warmer temps and one faster curing, to be used under colder conditions.
Look at the technical details of the two products to see what the difference is for the Smith's formultions---the manufacturer suggests using the "Warm" version at temperatures above 50C and the cold one below 50F. The data also gives so-called "potlife" ie the length of time it's safe to keep a mass of the mixed product in a small pot--for the "warm" version at 86F this is 4 hours; for the "Cold" version the equivalent 4 hour life occurs at 50F. Larger mixes will shorten these times; smaller mixed volumes will extend the "pot life".
"Potlife" is the common way to define a property called "exotherming"--this is the self-heating effect of a a batch of mixed resin in a small container. As the reaction proceeds it generates a significant amount of heat and in a confined mass like a mixing pot this heats up the mixed resin which then reacts faster which makes more heat and so forth until the cure time drops to seconds. So pay close attention to timing; mix rapidly but thoroughly and then get the mixed system out of the pot and injected or coated onto the work surface as fast as possible to avoid heat buildup. And choose the system-- "Warm" or "Cold" --that's suitable for the working environment.
2013-03-26JOHN MILKEY: The cold blend has less open time and is particularly useful in cold weather. However I use the cold weather formulation in all New England weather as it has plenty of open time to penetrate and there are many solvents which need to flash off before surfaces coated with CPES can be finish coated( I'm not so big on waiting any longer than I have to for these things to occur) I think the cold weather m mix is more versatile overall unless you are in the southern desert
Best,
John m
2013-03-28BRIAN BOSCHEN: You can call customer service for details or contact Smith's online. The intended difference is the weather when you are using the product, and I believe it relates to penetration and drying time. You don't want to use the Cold during hot summer weather, as I believe it dries too quickly to penetrate adequately.
2013-02-26TONY MORELLO asked: I have a 10x12 upper deck platform on a PartyHut Pontoon that I would like to seal - how much product would that take.
It currently has a stucco-like coating on it - am I save to assume that needs to be scrapped off prior to application of the CPES Epoxy?
Thanks
+Expand Answers
2013-02-28CHARLES ROSS: I don't think that CPES is the right way to go here. If the wood is punky replace it. If not , remove the stucco and then paint with something like a garage floor epoxy. CPES is really only for something that would be difficult to remove or for small spot repairs.
Certainly remove any top coating before applying CPES if you do decide to go that route. if you dont the P part of CPES wont work.
And remember
Free advice is worth every penny you paid for it. .
2013-03-05STEVE QUESENBERRY: You will have to remove the current finish to open the pore space in the wood. However, you may not be able to remove the previous finish so replacing the wood may be the only option.
2013-04-26TED ZOLI: Just seal it...no scraping.
2013-02-26A shopper asked: Could you use the penetrating epoxy tomstiffen up a soggy balsa core deck?
Thanks
John Wasielewski
+Expand Answers
2013-02-27DAVID CALLOWAY: The short answer is yes, BUT: the wood must be dry or the CPES won't penetrate the wood. There is no magic bullet to fixing a water-logged deck. You will have to strip off the fiberglass on one side and dry out the wood, flood it with CPES, and recover. Or you may have to replace the balsa... check out the web site for this product, they have lots of good info.
2013-02-27TODD PARMINGTON: Yes, but you'll need to ensure that the core is completely free of moisture first and then it will need to be soaked in CPES to achieve total saturation.
2013-02-28CARLSON DEANGELIS: Hi John, To some extent the answer is yes......First you must dry out the core....this probably can be best accomplished by part of the process in getting the epoxy to the core. You will need to drill pilot holes in your deck(No deeper than to get through the fiberglass just to the core.Use a depth stop. The pilot holes need to take into account where your high point is so that gravity takes it to your low points.) Once you have done that you need to allow enough time for the core to dry out(you may need to tent it and use a dehumidifier). You might want to use a device to measure moisture like you would if making a blister repair in your hull. Once you know that the core is dry you can then feed the penetrating epoxy through the pilot holes until the core will not soak it up...I have found that coming back every 10 minutes or so is useful as it may take some time for the capillary action of the epoxy to work. The pilot holes must be close enough together that you can truly get to all parts of the core. and finally you must repair the surface to match the rest. This is a short answer and I recommend you get someone local to guide you through this project if you want to do it yourself...the prep,drying and epoxying you can probably do....I would leave the surface repair to a specialist.
2013-02-28RONALD CUCCARO: I don't have any experience with a balsa core deck., however any wood that I have treated with CPES is substantially more stable.
Ron
2013-03-02TED SUNDIN: Hi John,
I have used CPES on new wood before varnishing, and to correct some rot on exposed panels and it has been great. It seems reasonable that it would help you but I don't know how you would apply it to a deck core.
I suggest you contact Smiths directly and ask, I am sure your case has come up and they will be glad to advise you.
Good luck,
Ted
2013-02-03DOUG BRINLEE asked: I have a 44 foot sea ray with a soft spot on the walk way.. Its a 95 model sundancer. Not sure how it got soft but on starboard side near the nav light is really soft then out from there about two feet. You can walk but it gives.
I was thinking about drilling small holes in the non skid and injecting the CPES with a turkey baster in several areas and see if that stiffens it up. Then simply patch the small 1/8 holes in non skid and call it good... Does that sound like it will work? How far apart would I have to drill.. was hoping not to make any more small holes than I have to.. so repair and cosmetic will be easy to take care of
Thanks for any suggestions.
Doug
+Expand Answers
2013-02-04DONALD ANSLEY: Doug:
Your deck is likely cored (foam or balsa) and the softness an indication of the structural skin separating from the core (likely the top skin but not necessarily.) The CPES will certainly run into the holes but it is so thin its hard to see it doing much in the way of bonding the skin back to the core - which is the goal since this is a structural deck.
The most fool proof thing is to cut back ALL the delaimated skin and grind a bevel scarf, then laminate a new skin (using same laminate schedule) then sand and refinish to match the surrounding surface. UGH needless to say.
So since it can't really hurt perhaps you should try your hole fix approach - only modified as follows:
* Drill a matrix of 3/16 dia holes (say 6 inches apart across the entire soft area) thru the top skin.
* With a hot melt glue gun bond a 12 inch long piece of 3/4-in PVC pipe over the hole nearest the center (cut should be clean so the glue bond is good and sealed to the deck.)
* Mix up say a pint or so of Maas or West epoxy and pour it into the PVC pipe up about 8 inches. Then - yes you guessed it - wrap you lips round the pipe and blow (I cannot say I've ever done this but there's really no reason it should not work nicely. In fact the head pressure alone may drive the epoxy into the void.) Be careful not to break the hot glue joint or you'll have a mess. Assuming you get flow then:
* have 2-inch tape ready and tape over the holes as epoxy starts to bubble out. Hopefully one by one they will show epoxy at which point the entire void should be filled.
* now some effort needs to be made to close the gap and get the skin in closer contact with the core. This could be lead shot bags or sand bags across the surface - or perhaps wood screws with flat washers driven thru the taped over holes (you might get just enough grab into the core to squeeze things together.) Leave the PVC pipe in place to receive the squeezed out epoxy.)
Good luck!
Donald Ansley
2013-02-04Doug Brinlee: Thanks Donald,
I will give it a try.
Doug
2013-02-04JOHN MILKEY: Hi Doug,
Drilling holes would help a bit but the cpes wouldn't be able to do all that much penetrating before it ran back out the bottom of the holes. Ideally you would be removing the non skid material over the punky area and then rough sanding your way into the wood before you drilled the holes; and then poured the cpes over everything. After that, you would want to fill the area with a high performance epoxy like the West System 3G (?) which has some flex.
Good luck
John M
2013-02-04JIM HABERLY: Donald (above) has a good idea and good advise. I just thought I'd mention that you want to be sure that the inner core of your deck is dry before you proceed. I have a Hans Christian 43' Ketch and the inner core of the deck on those boats is marine plywood. You may be able to tell something about the inner core material and wetness from what comes off your drill bit when drilling the holes. Otherwise a moisture meter would need to be used. You could also let it dry for a time after you drill the holes.
I've used CPES for years and it is great stuff! It is not for structural reinforcement as much as stopping rot and preserving/sealing up wood.
It is also possible to buy blanks for your typical grease/caulking guns. Search jamestown for "Boatlife - Empty Caulking Cartridges." These may also be useful for getting the west epoxy forced into the holes.
Good luck!
Jim H
2013-02-04Doug Brinlee: Jim,
Thanks, we feel its strange that we have an area like this and it meters moist so we planned to drill a few small holes and put a heat lamp on it and dry out first.. then inject epoxy to stiffin it up so we dont have to take the top of deck off.. seems it never looks same when you do a large area of gel coat.. but may have to do that. I am trying to do something that will not be noticed and do it myself without hiring a guy and spending 1500 bucks on a repair..
That balsa core gets soft when moist.. maybe when its dry it will stiffin up and we can inject and call it good..?
2013-02-05BRIAN BETTINGER: Is it wood you are repairing? If it is, use Get Rot and use the method you are describing not CPES. Need to check and see what is under the surface . The material suporting it might be the problem.
2013-01-27A shopper asked: Coverage per pint? thank you
+Expand Answers
2013-01-29ROBERT RUNG: I do not recall
2013-03-05STEVE QUESENBERRY: I would say coverage rate is really based on the application method and the poor space of the wood. If new, untreated wood, it may soak in rather quickly so coverage will be much less.
2013-03-25THOMAS STEARNS: Varies widely based on the porosity of the workpiece. On badly rotted wood a pint might not fill a 2X4 that's a foot long; on solid, unrotted tight-grain wood the coverage could be equivalent to a second coat of varnish.
2013-01-20JOE SILVA asked: I have a 52 foot 1968 wooden sportfish boat made of white cedar and I have many stringer with fur canyour product help and if it can do I have to grind the fur off thank you in advance ? Joe
+Expand Answers
2013-01-22J T MARSHALL: I would sand and clean real good, then two or three heavy coats of cpes and then paint with oil based paint
2013-01-23TED SUNDIN: I suggest you contact Smiths directly, I have no experience with this particular application.
Ted
2013-01-23DICK MCCRILLIS: In a boat of that age, you need to have a good sense of how much of each stringer is rotted. The Smiths CPES epoxy is really good for stabilizing non-structural sections of the wood, but will not really substitute for the full strength stringer. A few small spots- no problem. A bunch of small spots, bigger problem.
2013-01-25CARLSON DEANGELIS: Hi Joe, absolutely, the fur your referring to is actually caused by heat....I have the same problem on some seem battens(near my engines) that I addressed. I wouldn't grind it off but pick and scrape(gently)what will come loose....once you have removed what is loose saturate the clean wood with your epoxy...you keep adding to the wood till it won't take anymore(that often means that you think you have soaked it enough....but come back every ten minutes or so till it literally won't take anymore)....because your inside...I would use the cold weather formula as it has less odor and make sure your venting the air to the outside(IE;Bilge blower). Additionally you can repair any areas that have significant wood loss by applying Smiths wood epoxy puddy to the areas and forming it to the stringers with 4mil plastic to get the shape you want....works like a charm....
do that and it will be like
2012-12-24TOM DELROSSI asked: how much time do you have to work with it once its mixed ?
+Expand Answers
2012-12-26JOHN CROWERS: I had plenty of time-----30-60 minutes maybe. It is very thin and absorbs quickly into the wood. Maybe the best primer and sealer I've ever used.
2012-12-26MARTHA'S VINEYARD CONSTRUCTION CO: It depends on the temperature. A small batch will be useable for 20-30 minutes
2012-12-26NOEL OTTO: more than an hour which is lots of time to coat some wood with many coats - don't forget to soak the end grain a lot - and this stuff really stinks so use lots of ventilation or a vapor mask or both -
this is the best protection for new wood - the only way it will work on old rotted wood is if the wood is totally dry as it will not displace water or soak into damp wood
2012-12-26ROBERT TLAPA: It depends on the volume of your container. I use one of those pasta jars that have graduations for the ounces. Easy to get the 50/50 ratio with those. I sealed my teak and holly cabin sole before varnishing. I spoke with the owner and developer of this product. If you are going to varnish,wait only 12 hours instead of the 16 hours suggested. CPES will draw in the varnish and then cure. I t came out beautiful with about 10 coats of Epifanes. Working pot life hours not minutes like regular epoxies. I've used it to seal spongy wood in both my boat and around my house. If you're brushing you should have no issues with it curing in the container or getting kind of gel like unless it's extremely hot where you're working. I use the cold weather formula regardless of temp. It sets up faster in warm climates, but to get done quickly and it still never failed me.
2012-12-27DAVID FRITZ: tempcomes in to play but you have hours and hours if you call Smith and company direct with your questions have the time you get mister Smith the inventor on the phone
2012-12-27PHILIP G RASMUSSEN: Tom,
I suppose it depends on how large your batch is. I have always worked with small batches (say up to half a plastic margarine container) and just mix another batch when that is used up. the cold formula seems to take longer to start to stiffen up. If you are working in below 60 degrees I think you could go to a larger batch and not worry about 30 to 45 minutes. Start with a small batch and see what happens. Since the mix portions are not that critical, you can make a new batch pretty fast.
Phil
2012-12-29CARLTON CRAIG: Hey, I'm not reading the can right now, but my very recent experience/memory is that we had several hours to work with a small amount (1/8 cup) mixed-up in a glass jar at about 50 degress f. We would just leave a little brush in there (a throw-away) and keep applying to end grain as we went...we weren't going for perfection here though, more just sealing end-grain for exterior deck work.
Casual/ recreational (8), Advanced (7), Recreational (5), Professional (3)
Was this a gift?:
No (15)
Most Liked Positive Review
Smith's EPES process for wet deck cores
After buying first sailboat (didn't have a eval. ran on it,which I recommend first) I got it home and found out it had a wet core and it was exacerbating the spidercracking over...Read complete review
After buying first sailboat (didn't have a eval. ran on it,which I recommend first) I got it home and found out it had a wet core and it was exacerbating the spidercracking over enter deck. The instructions on Jamestown on how to use this product were excellent, and I followed to a "T". After sealing the deck holes (follow instructions) I found only 2 problems. It is better to wait until late spring/early summer to do this project (rains were a problem this year.) Other problem was that no matter how good a job you do, there will be some seapage into cabin compartment so you need to be around the boat closely to get this up before it hardens in the interior (mainly around seals on windows.) I used Interlux epoxy primer and polyurethane paints to finish deck. Had my ASA instructor tell me that the job was strong after testing it under foot. End of project, I strongly recommend this process.
VS
Most Liked Negative Review
Using as a primer sealer
I used this as a primer sealer on teak in preparation for varnish and I worked out of doors. Due to the long setup time the weather is critical. Dew or rain could ruin ...Read complete review
I used this as a primer sealer on teak in preparation for varnish and I worked out of doors. Due to the long setup time the weather is critical. Dew or rain could ruin your results. Using this outdoors in springtime New England could be very problematic. I managed it but not without a lot of worry! In a shop setting or under cover I think this would be an excellent product for sealing prior to varnish.
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
It works as advertised. I used it on a wooden dinghy that leaked at the chines. I used it with some wicking, and saturated the inside and outside of the joint. Took some time to do it properly, but it secured virtually all of the leaks.
Was this a gift?:
No
2/18/2013
5.0
excelent product, second time buyer.
By Dave
from Angola, Indiana
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
Easy to use did agreat job!
Was this a gift?:
No
2/10/2013
5.0
Worked great
By Gjc
from Birmingham
About Me Beginner
Pros
Easy to Use
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
Great pdt
Was this a gift?:
No
2/8/2013
5.0
AKA Rot Doctor
By Calico Jack
from Long Island, NY
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Indoor
Outdoor
Quick Fix
Wood Trim
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
Easy to mix and use. works just as described. I won't put wood on my boat without coating it in CPES first (except teak)(not needed on teak)
Was this a gift?:
No
2/8/2013
4.0
CPES Epoxy
By Al
from Egg Harbor, WI
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Outdoor
Wood Trim
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
I use this product as an undercoat for varnishing over teak. Helps the varnish adhere to the teak toe rails.
Was this a gift?:
No
1/29/2013
4.0
First time user
By Uncle Bob
from Marina Del Rey, Ca.
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Cons
Best Uses
Indoor
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
Can't say much..just did a trial on a small area of delaminating ply. I can say it was easy to mix and apply. I know I'll need to do some filling and re-application, but i'm sure the wood is in better shape after being treated. Be sure and wear gloves; I did get a spot of resin on my hand, and did get a reaction. Just be diligent and I doubt you will have any issues.
Was this a gift?:
No
12/15/2012
4.0
Does the job, but is expensive.
By GB42-127
from Chesapeake Beach, MD
About Me Advanced
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Quick Fix
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
I hope it saturates as well as Steve Smith says!
Was this a gift?:
No
12/29/2011
5.0
Great product
By Bob
from Columbus, Ohio
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Absolutely clear
Easy to Use
Great adhesion as a prime
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Cons
Best Uses
Bare wood primer
Great sealer
Outdoor
Wood Trim
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
I use this on hulls and decks primatily
Was this a gift?:
No
11/29/2011
5.0
Wood Headers
By Frances
from Fairfield, Iowa
About Me Professional
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
We are renovating an 1880 year old building extensively on 3 levels and are turning it into a restaurant/bar. The basement area has beautiful stone foundation, but the ceiling is quite low and we had an awkward supporting beam which brought the height down in one area. The headers are all white oak which is very strong and adding the epoxy meant we could roll the supporting beam out of the way as though the headers were only 10 years old using other supports. Even the engineer seemed excited with this product! It solved a huge space issue for us!
Was this a gift?:
No
9/26/2011
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Exterior use-Boats and Homes
By B
from Central Ohio
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Outdoor
Wood Trim
Comments about Smith and Co Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy:
I do some exterior restoration on homes and use CPES in all areas where, weather/ water can be an issue. I use it quite a bit where I am replacing existing materials that have degenerated with the weather or application in the past. I also uise it on new wood and repair on my wooden boats.
Price Match Promise:
If you find a lower delivered price on a new identical item in stock and available for purchase from an authorized U.S. merchant.
- email us at pricematch@jamestowndistributors.com. This offer does not include special coupons or other promotional offers.
Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
Checkout: 
Item(s) in your cart:
The item was added to your wishlist.
