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Interlux Interstain is both a wood filler and stain to serve two purposes: it fills the grain of the wood, and stains the wood to enhance its natural beauty.
Filling the wood reduces the number of varnish coats required. Available in Brown Mahogany, Red Mahogany, and Chris Craft Red Mahogany. Interstain can also be used to tint Interlux varnishes.
Out of the package, this product has a thick paste consistency and should be mixed with Interlux Brushing Liquid 333 to the consistency of thick house paint.
$22.60
$22.60
$22.60
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APPLICATION AND USE
Preparation
BARE WOOD: Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Sand smooth. Sanding
Some Important Points If Interstain is not thoroughly dry before overcoating with varnish, the filler will "lift" from the grain and the stain will be apparent on the varnish brush. Product temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 29 deg C/85 deg F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 35 deg C/95 deg F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 29 deg C/85 deg F.
Compatibility/Substrates Apply to clean, dry, properly prepared surfaces only. Do not overcoat directly with unthinned epoxy resin.
Number of Coats As required
Coverage (Theoretical) - 0 (sq ft/Gal)
Application Methods Brush
Color Y42-Brown Mahogany, Y1579-Red Mahogany, Y573-CC Red Mahogany
TRANSPORTATION: Interstain should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage.
STORAGE: Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Interstain to be realised ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5 deg C/40 deg F and 35 deg C/95 deg F. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Safety DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to harden before disposal.
Remainders of Interstain cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit. Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities.
2013-04-08ERNIE CHASTAIN asked: I'm restoring a 1941 Chris Craft Deluxe runabout. Just sanded down the transom...should I use 1579 or 573 stain?
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2013-04-11RICHARD WALCHLI: I'm not familiar with "41: Chris Craft Runabout. I used 1579 (red Mahogany) on restoration of of mahogany consoles and seats in 1970 Boston Whaler. Applied 1579 after striping old finish, light sanding and bleaching. my experience with 1579 was favorable, restored surfaces to original tone and after varnishing was as good or better than original factory finish. Filler stain left surface pores filled flush with surface. I have no experience with 573.
2013-02-22JUAN CARLOS TORRES asked: I have a cutlas chris craft that have been stained before, Can I stained over it or I have to remove the old stain first?
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2013-02-22JWHEATON ENTERPRISES: I don't see a problem with that approach but, check the Interlux website regarding Interstain.
2013-02-22BRUCE HURST: I would say that if you want it to look decent you will have to go back to bare wood
2013-02-22JOHN HEIMAN: To do any stain job right you should sand down to bare wood before re-staining. One would presume that there was a sealer like varnish applied over the previously stained surface? If so, the stain won't penetrate through that. Sanding to bare wood will allow the new stain to penetrate the wood grain more fully. Putting new stain over the old will result in a darker color overall and a blotchy appearance in areas where the old stain is lighter or non existent.
2013-02-22Lee Urbani: In my opinion attempting to remove old stain on anything other than a very small area would be a very big job. In any event after all these years the is basically no chance of the bare wood being of a consistent shade anyway. The best way to use this product is to wipe in on with a rag let it set up for a while and then rub it off until you achieve a close matching shade. The darker you want the finish the longer you need to it to dry before and wipe it off gently, rub harder for a light shade. If you look at any vintage Chris Craft you will see color variations in the wood finish, that's part of the charm. An old friend of mine once told me "if it looks great from the dock when it goes by, you got it right".
2013-02-23JAMES ZIMMER: I am refurbishing a 1948 Chris Craft. I have stripped all the bright work to bare wood using a heat gun and scraper. I then removed all elements of previous staining material and miscellaneous varnish. To make the bare wood more consitant in color (especially new bungs) I applied a two part bleach followed by the new stain, wood filler and finally 8 to 10 coats of varnsh.
2012-08-09JIM VAN LANINGHAM asked: I tried to use a Minwax red mahogany oil based stain on Baltic beech plywood and got a very dark maroon result. Would the interlux brown mahogany stain on Baltic Beech plywood give me a color that is closer to unstained varnished mahogany?
Jim V.
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2012-08-09JEFFREY THOMAS: I am not familiar with this type of plywood however, I would recomend this stain for your desired results. This stain comes as a paste, not a liquid so by using a thinner you can mix the product to your desired color and consistency. For best results, I recomend applying with a fine steel wool, light coats, staying with the grain, until desired results are achieved. By using this method, you are filling in any surface imperfections while enhancing the grain pattern in the wood as well as buffing the surface at the same time. Hope this was helpful and good luck. J.T.
2012-08-09JWHEATON ENTERPRISES: You will probably get the same result.
2012-08-10ROBERT MARCINKEWICZ: Not sure what the brown would do. I use the red to get the Chris Craft color. The Minwax Red mahogany doesn't give a true color. I have used the brown in the past on Mahogany to get the brown color on my 1970 Chris Craft, That worked well. Not sure what Beech will look like when stained.
Regards,
Bob
2012-08-10JOHN STAX: Yes, I think it would. The thing is the Interlux filler stain has pigment like paint in it, so it only gets so dark and no more, unlike minwax which is more like ink than paint.
2012-08-10Lee Urbani: In my opinion, on a boat, there is no substitute for the "real" wood. Due to the way it is made, plywood is the most difficult product to match colors with stains. There are many different species of mahogany, from around the world. In fact, I think the term mahogany is almost generic. I use this stain on a Classic Chris Craft which has had pieces replaced over the years, some by folks that knew what they were doing and some that did not. Unstained varnished mahogany varies in color from a light brown to a darker brown, depending on its country of origin and the age of the tree. Therefore, applying a stain, which has a consistent shade, becomes a challenge. The Chris has some original factory stain left, which I have preserved, over the years it has changed tones, now that is a light tone of reddish brown. That's what I try to match. The way I do that is by applying light coats of this stain, with a rag, letting it set up for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the temperature, then rubbing it off. Most time it takes several applications and rubbings to get it to match the surrounding wood color, it's all by eye. It takes work but when it's done it looks great.
2012-08-10PETE OQUIST: Jim, I am not sure. However, google Don Dannenburg's website. He wrote two books on old boat restoration and he has a whole chapter on varnishing and stain. His Forum is free and there is alot of godd info available. Best of luck. Sparty On!!
2012-08-09A shopper asked: I am building a small rowboat from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft of Annapolis, MD. I have modified the plans to include more mahogany trim on the outwales and inwales and on the seats. However, the seats themselves are made of Baltic Beech plywood. I tried a Minwax red mahogany stain on a sample of the plywood and the result was very, very dark. I am looking at two alternatives for the stain: one is a Minwax oil-based stain (Colonial Maple looks as close to the natural mahogany that I have on the boat); the other option is your Brown Mahogany Wood Filler Stain. I have looked at your color charts on the internet, but cannot determine how dark/light the brown mahogany stain is. Can you tell me how dark it would be on light plywood? Can you also tell me if the Minwax oil-based stain would work under the Interlux Interprime Wood Sealer? Thank you. Jim Van Laningham
j
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2012-08-09KEVIN LEINER: I would suggest you test different stains and stain blends on small offcuts. There is really no way to tell for sure otherwise, and you may need to mix different stains to achieve the result you want. This product is a paste stain for staining the mahogany wood and filling its pores. Baltic birch is relatively nonporous compared to mahogany, the two woods will always look somewhat different regardless of color.
2012-08-09JAMES RIEGE: Foerget the minwax products altogether. Pick up the phone and talk to a Customer service Rep. at Jamestown Distributors. If you want it to look it's best - these people are the professionals-the best in the business!
I restored a 1958 Dunphy and EVERYTHING they recommended, that I use worked perfectly. Products met and exceeded my expectation.
Stop trying to do it yourself --- ask the pros
2012-08-09COZ PASSALACQUA: How dark is dark? Walnut dark or?? The Interlux filler stain is fairly dark (Not quite walnut however) And it has the red in it. Look at pictures of post war Chris Crafts (Sportsman, Continental Etc) from the '50's and '60's ) that's the color you will get when put over mahogany. I'm not sure about Minwax products but, if you are putting oil based over oil based it should not be a problem.
2012-08-09STEVE CASSELLS: I did get some of the wood filler stain last year. I didn't get the brushing liquid, as it was very expensive to ship. I thinned it with some other stuff. It is going to cover the wood with a red color, and you will lose any grain that might be there. Mine is a nice red mahogany color, and it does fill in wood imperfections, but it is solid. I don't recall getting to choose between brown and red. Maybe you are getting a different color than I ordered.
Steve
2012-08-09DONOVAN NORTON: I used this stain filler, I liked the product, I think the minwax will be fine underneath, but if it is already too dark, this product will not lighten it up.
I was staining stripped and sanded Mahogany...
you can see the color on my blog.
add http and blogspot
1956runaboutrebuild
good luck
Donovan
2012-08-10DEAN WILSON: Baltic birch or Baltic beech? Either way, I would always do a sample. Stain on birch can be quite blotchy (beech less so). One can lessen that effect by first brushing on a 4:1 or 5:1 alcohol thinned shellac onto the raw wood. Then stain. For the gentleman's racer runabout I constructed, I used Chris Craft red. It is very red, as were those years of Chris Craft boats. It works fine with the sealer. Be sure to let the stain set for several days before attempting to apply the sealer, otherwise it may lift or dilute into the sealer, interacting with the sealer solvents. Also, thin the sealer to drive it into the wood bit more.
2012-02-29A shopper asked: I am looking for a close match to the Pettit red Mahogany filler stain that
is no longer available?
Thanks
Murray Parnell
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2012-02-29RANDY POOLE: I have not used the Pettit procuct but routinely use the Interlux Chris Craft Red filler stain on my (Chris Craft) boat.
2012-02-29DANIEL RAMIA: Having not used the Pettit Red Mahogany filler stain I don't know how it compares to the Interlux. The Interlux Red Mahogany is a very rich red color. It is closer to a true red mahogany color than the dark mahogany color.
2012-01-09ALAN HURD asked: I used a similar product on a Century Resorter restoration back in 1990. The filler stain was thick enough to apply with a brush but then I rubbed it in with a cloth to spread and help fill the porous wood. Is this method still appropriate and effective for the Interlux filler stain to cover and fill properly? What is your best way to apply? (Am doing a small project, a 1' x 3' mahogany board to be a pedestal for a model ship). Alan H
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2012-01-10ROBERT CHAN: The method described is correct but be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions for thinning. Use the cloth to remove excess stain after the stain has dried slightly. There should be a haze on the surface. Remove the excess by working clean sections of cloth across the grain being careful to leave the solids in the pores of the wood. Depending on the final finish pay attention to that manufacture's finish thinning rates. One main brand recommends 50% dilution for the first coat. This allows the varnish to penetrate and seal much better than straight varnish. BUT be careful because over-brushing will soften and remove the built up stain particles in the grain. Good luck with your project.
2012-01-10WILLIAM SCHMIDT: Hi Alan,
I use the chris~Craft filler stain. First mix the filler stain gently but well so it is a uniform cinsistency and then take out the amount you think you will need. You can apply it either with a brush or a rag. I usually use a brush unless I am touching up a little area. Let it soak in for awhile and then gently wipe off with rags until you get the desired color. I always like to take just enough off so the grain can be seen. And you can always do a second application if you go too far in the wiping process. Then several coats of a good varnish will give it the magical depth and glow you are looking for.
Dr. William Schmidt
2012-01-12RICK FLAX: Alan, brush it on fairly thick and rub it off with burlap, if you can find it, if not with a rough terry cloth. Wait till it turns hazy and rub hard
rick
2012-01-27Alan Hurd: Thanks for the info. Will do!
2012-02-09HARRY AYSCOUGH: Yes your method is correct. product must be thinned down. follow directions on can. wait overnight before applying urethane. Three coats should be enough.
2012-02-10Alan Hurd: Thank you Harry. Will be doing project shortly. I appreciate the input.
2011-10-19WILLIAM RICHARDS asked: Can I seal the plywood with epoxy or a clear sealer after staining and befor varnishing. The plywood is 1/8th. door skin, non marine.?
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2011-10-19RICHARD ROSSELLI: I just refinished marine plywood with the filler stain, then clear sealer (2 coats) then multiple coats of varnish with the first coat thinned 25%. The varnish was Interlux Schooner. Everything worked out great
2011-10-19DONALD SINCLAIR: Yes, you can. Do the following- Stain, let dry for 24 hrs. Then seal-
let dry completely, then varnish. I don't normally do the sealing step-it's
a waste of time. The sealing doesn't give you the depth of color-it clouds the finish. I stain, then varnish. This is a matter of opinion.
2011-10-19JON K WALTERS: Absolutely and it is imperative you use a non mineral spirits sealer as your varnish, assuming you are using a good spar varnish such as Epifanes, is mineral spirits based just like the Interlux. What happens is the varnish will soften and start smearing the stain resulting in a blotchy looking stain color. I would recommend either Smiths CPES (Clear Penetrating epoxy sealer), which is two part, or Pettits 2018 which is used right from can and is one part and stores better than CPES after you mix it. I've had good results from both. Good Luck, Jon
2011-10-19AL BENTON: William, you certainly can apply a clear sealer after staining your plywood with Interlux Interstain. It's best to allow the stain/filler to completely cure first. I have applied CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) over well cured stain with good success. The sealer prevents moisture from affecting the stained wood at the surface which often causes varnish to separate from the wood. The sealer also serves as a great primer for the first layer of varnish.
Al
2011-10-19WILLIAM SCHMIDT: Yes and yes. Just make certain you don't have excessive amounts of stain, that it is wiped to exactly what you want and let it dry thoroughly before charging on.
WRS
2011-10-20CLAYTON HENKE: My application was to apply varnish over the wood filler stain which I also considered a sealer. I believe you can varnish over epoxy, however, note that the instructions on the filler recommend avoiding epoxy (full strength resin) over the filler/stain. I did experience the "lifting" they mention so this stuff really does need to be completely dry before over coating.
2011-07-09A shopper asked: can product be used to achieve chris craft king plank yellow stain color?
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2011-07-15TOM KENNY: I have only used the Interlux â?? #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain. The way I us it is:
The woodwork was painted with the grain with Interlux â?? #573 C.C. Red Mahogany Wood Filler Stain that had been thinned 50% by volume. After the stain had set-up for approximately 5 minutes the excess was rubbed off against the grain with a cotton towel. After the stain had dried for 24 hours it was rubbed down with a Green (Medium) 3M Scotch-Brite Pad.
The panel was then painted with six coats of Interlux - #95 - Goldspar Varnish. Before the last coat was applied, the previous coats were lightly block sanded with 220-grit sandpaper, and then everything was vacuumed and wiped-down with a tack-rag and paint thinner.
Tom Kenny
2011-07-15DAVE PARKER: Sandusky 749 (Cordova) is what you need for that.
2011-07-16BRUCE HURST: I did not use this product on a Chris Craft, but it was the color I wanted to achieve, it is a red color so I doupt it would work for yellow.
2011-07-16JEFFREY HANSEN: I do not believe the Interlux has the king plank yellow you ask about - I have all three colors and their brown mahogany will be too dark. However, the Chris Craft Antique Boat Club forum has an entry that indicates "Sandusky Filler Stains Cordova is a golden yellow stain used on Chris Craft Continental, Capri, and Riviera king planks." as advertised by Sandusky. I cannot speak to the result as I am restoring an all mahogany 1959 35 ft Chris Connie and using the Interlux 573 CC red from Jamestown. Which ever stain you end up with I can speak to the overall process that I have had success with for the mahogany and teak work on the Chris. Sand, stain, allow stain to dry out 4 days to a week, apply 1 coat CPES carefully, quickly, minimal brush strokes, so as not redistribute the stain (that's why I wait up to a week to let the stain dry), then apply second coat CPES within 24 hours based on temperature (no sanding in between) followed by first coat of Epifanes thinned 20% within 24-48 hours of the second coat of CPES, again based on temperature and no sanding in between. You will now have a very robust adhesion system. I am using the Epifanes wood finish gloss for first 6 coats, 2 coats on with no sanding and max 48 hrs between coats for warm weather, dry 2 weeks, 2 more coats, dry 2 weeks, etc. then 6 more coats of Epifanes Gloss Clear varnish sanding between each coat for a total of 12 coats of Epifanes over 2 coats of CPES - all available from Jamestown. I do the same with the teak foredeck. I also like both the round Epifanes and the full badger hair brush available here. Keep them hanging in mineral spirits with minimal cleaning after each use - they will last years. Also, you can't beat the 3M gold stikit sandpaper and the small stikit block roll kit. Best Regards, Jeff Hansen
2011-07-16RICHARD HAMILTON: natural filler stain with tinting from minwax golden oak stain
2011-07-16DAVID JOHNSON: This a very thick stain about the consistency of thick latex paint. I did not use the can I purchased as I originally intended as the color did not match as well as I had hoped. I have used some of the stain mixed with another color on some other small projects. I did not have any complaints about the product although I did not give it a major test. All of the Interlux products I have used have given me good results.
2011-07-16HAROLD MATHIESEN: To get the light color on the king plank, you must bleach with a bleaching agent after sanding. Varnish will then make it a honey colored finish. The product that I used (Interlux--Interstain - Wood Filler Stain--Chris Craft Mahagony) could be used on the field for a contrasting color--also works well on hull and transom.
2011-07-17BRIAN BETTINGER: If you are looking for C C 50s vintage King Plank use Cris Craft Cordova Stain 749 from Sandusky paints. Trust me I used the Golden Stain from Sandusky paint on my Holiday and it was the sick yellow color I found out that it was for the interior of some of the CC Cruisers. I striped it back off and put Cordova on and it looks great and matches the original .As far as I know Interlux does not make it.Hope this helps you out.
Brian Bettinger
2011-07-18JOHN CLAIRE: I think a natural colored filler stain may be used. Not chris craft, not brown mahagony, not red mahagony, but natural. To be sure, go to www.danenbergboatworks.com or chris craft antique boat club site and search. Good luck.
2011-07-20LAWRENCE MURRAY: I purchased Brown Mahogany filler stain. It certainly would not be suitable for staining to a yellow color. Other than that the product is excellant when applied as directed.
Larry Murray
Comments about Interlux - Interstain - Wood Filler Stain:
I stripped the hatches and other trim components on my 1953 Hinckley. Thought about using a common household product until I noticed it wasn't for external use. Did a little research and purchased this product based on recommendations. It sealed nicely in one coat, and left a really smooth and nicely colored surface to start the varnish build-up which has gone very well.
6/14/2010
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Great product
By donofish
from So Cal
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Interlux - Interstain - Wood Filler Stain:
Great stain fills the Mohag pores, The color is redish brown not red Must use the 0333 thinner
3/18/2010
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
4.0
Great filler & stain rolled into one!
By Lizzi
from Corpus Christi, TX
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Easy To Clean
Cons
Best Uses
Large Areas
Small Areas
Comments about Interlux - Interstain - Wood Filler Stain:
A little goes a long way! Follow the directions on the can! You can thin this product down to meet your needs. If you want more filling qualities, use less thinner. If you want more of a stain, use more thinner. I used the "Brown Mahogany" stain on bare teak. When you first apply it, it looks like a warm red but by the time you work it into the grain and wipe off the excess, the color tones down a bit. When it's dry, you can even out any imperfections with Interlux Brush Thinner 333 and a piece of cheesecloth. I finished off the project with "Interlux Satin Varnish" and it toned down the color even more, bringing out more of the warm amber of the teak, creating a very close match to the surrounding wood on our boat. "Interstain" is very forgiving to use and has excellent filling qualities for small imperfections in the wood.
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