REC-83-404 Gallon - Boiled REC-13-734EXP Gallon - Raw
Raw Linseed Oil is 100% pure, non-edible and slow-drying. Raw Linseed Oil helps wood retain its natural moisture content which retards cracking, checking, shrinking, and aids water repellency.
Boiled Linseed Oil contains driers to speed film drying and hardness. Linseed oil without this additive can take over a week to dry. Enhances brushing and leveling when added to oil based paints. Linseed Oil is a yellowish oil extracted from the seeds of flax and used as a drying oil in paints and varnishes and in linoleum, printing inks, and synthetic resin.
$8.93
$8.48
$22.88
$21.73
$6.59
$6.26
$21.98
$20.88
The item was added to your wishlist.
"Raw" linseed oil is just that - linseed oil mercilessly squeezed from flax seed and packaged with no additional additives or preservatives. Raw linseed oil dries very slowly, taking weeks to fully cure. You should limit its use to the insides of wood gutters, chopping blocks, sawhorses, and other items exposed to the elements where drying time is not an important consideration.
Slow drying is a mixed blessing. For oil-based paints and varnishes, slow drying is a benefit, since this allows the paint to "level" itself, giving a smoother finish with fewer brush marks. The best looking paint jobs are invariably oil paint jobs, without question. However, when used as a wood preservative for items that are handled or walked on, such as tool handles, furniture, or wood decks, long drying times are undesirable. 100% Pure, this slow drying oil has multiple uses. It helps wood retain its natural moisture, aids in water repellency, retards cracking, checking and shrinking.
"Boiled" linseed oil, though, is not boiled. The actual boiling of some varnish oils changes their drying characteristics. With linseed oil, though, it is the addition of certain solvents that causes linseed oil to dry more quickly, acting as if it were boiled. This makes it a better product for preserving tool handles, decks, and furniture. I suppose they should have named it "sort-of-boiled linseed oil", or "kinda-like-boiled-but-not-really-boiled linseed oil". Boiled Linseed Oil is used as a natural wood finish and preservative, either alone or with other oils and solvents. Mixed with oil based paints and varnishes, it increases gloss and improves leveling and durability. A mixture of 2 parts boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine creates a semi-gloss wood polish for furniture. Can also be mixed with mineral spirits.
Varnish can also be made at home. Our JD Homemade Varnish Recipe is an old Down East deck coating formula traditionally used on wooden decks for schooners, fishing boats, and porch decks. Makes for an amber finish. To customize the mixture, add more pine tar for a darker color or add less for a lighter color. Allow more drying time for the darker mixture. You will need 1 qt of Turpentine, 1 qt Boiled Linseed Oil, 1/2 pt Pine Tar, and 1/2 pt Japan Drier.
BRAND:
Recochem
Type:
Linseed Oil
Questions & Answers about Linseed Oil:
2012-05-14A shopper asked: I read that you should clean varnish brushes (working on wooden boats) with raw linseed oil, then store them in turpentine. I have a gallon of boiled linseed oil. Will that work to clean the brush after varnishing?
+Expand Answers
2012-05-14MICHAEL WINKLER: Be careful! This product is "Boiled Linseed" which is quite different than "Raw Linseed". Personally I would not use either product to clean a brush. I suggestion you follow the cleaning instructions on the can of varnish, since the composition of "varnish"can vary dramaticaly between manufacturers.
2012-05-14R. G. HEST: I have always used boiled linseed oil and have cleaned varnish from my brushes.
Soaking in turps afterwards helps keep my brushes supple. I don't store them indefinitely however, since turps will gum up over time.
Hope this helps.
2012-05-14JEFF CHURCH: I always clean my brushes with mineral spirits, I soak them in kerosene sometimes. I never heard to clean brushes in raw linseed oil. I'm no expert either.
2012-04-30A shopper asked: is it better to cut boiled linsead oil with turpintine or paint thinner on new white cedar shingle siding?
2012-04-14MICHAEL CATES asked: Is boiled linseed oil safe to use on a cutting board?
+Expand Answers
2012-04-26ROBERT MCELWEE: Absolutely not. Boiled linseed oil contains metallic fillers. Food grade linseed oil is available but is really expensive and hard to find. This is my hard line answer, food safety is serious business.
2012-04-26DANIEL OGONEK: I would recommend mineral oil instead of Linseed Oil. Linseed oil might work, but mineral oil is the usual treatment.
2012-04-26MAX H GREGORY: I would not recommend using linseed oil on a cutting board. Please see the MSDS. If necessary type boiled linseed oil MSDS into your search engine and read the document that will be found
2012-04-26STEPHEN SCALES: The use of linseed oil has declined over the past several decades with the increased use of synthetic alkyd resins, which function similarly but resist yellowing.[1] It is an edible oil but, because of its strong flavor and odor, is only a minor constituent of human nutrition in the U.S., although it is marketed as a nutritional supplement. In parts of Europe, it is traditionally eaten with potatoes and quark (cheese). It is regarded as a delicacy due to its hearty taste, which spices the bland quark.[2] -----wiki
Steve Scales
2012-04-10A shopper asked: Can boiled linseed oil be used for coating a new floor on my two wheel trailor? I just installed the floor with with green deck boards and I want to water proof the wood?
2012-04-04A shopper asked: Does someone have the recipee for cleaning wood with boiled linseed oil , Turpentine and I think it had vinegar in it.?
+Expand Answers
2012-04-06R. G. HEST: Your question does not talk about what you are trying to clean -- is the wood finished, raw, sealed with what, etc.
This works for me when cleaning the gunnels and oiled brightwork on boats, canoes, outdoor furniture.
Hot Wash: Add to each gallon of hot water:
2 tablespoons gum turpentine
4 tablespoons boiled linseed oil
This formula works best if it is hot enough to require that you wear rubber gloves. Wring out a soft clean cloth in the solution and wash the wood. The turpentine and hot water will clean away soil, oils, and built up waxes and polishes. The linseed oil will replace oils and actually â??finishâ?? worn or bare spots. (Linseed oil has been one of the most used finishes of the past.)
Wipe dry and buff with a clean soft cloth. This may be sufficient. Polish with lemon oil or apply a surface wax if you are cleaning furniture. This wash works well for furniture, cabinets and wall paneling.
Murphyâ??s oil soap or similar products can also be used to wash wood.
2012-03-25A shopper asked: Should I use raw or boiled linseed oil on my 60 year old, always oiled, not w a finished, hardwood floors?
+Expand Answers
2012-03-26ALONZO MARKS: if it was up to me i would use raw. everything i have heard that it lastes longer
2012-03-26PETER VALLANDIGHAM: If the hardwood is bare of finish (scrapes or areas of a lot of scratches), use a coat of raw linseed oil to seal the wood from moisture. Then apply finishing coats with boiled linseed oil.
If it is still oiled, try the boiled linseed oil, since the boiled stuff has dryers in it to get it to dry quickly. You may need multiple coats of boiled linseed oil to fill small pinholes in your wood grain, if a completely smooth finish is desired.
Use either sparingly, stretching the raw or boiled oil as thin as possible, if you want either one to dry in a reasonable time. These coatings should be rubbed on with a rag. You will find a little oil covers a large surface area. The oil should not be put on with a paint brush.
2012-03-26DAVID PARKER: Use boiled because unless you wait for the linseed oil to dry and saturate fully and completely, finger prints and foot prints would be a constant annoyance, boiled is a liilte quicker drying of an oil, and linseed has a tendency to bleed when warm.
2012-03-17FLOYD JOSLIN asked: can lineseed oil thinned with paint thinner be used as a primer for old dried out wood?
+Expand Answers
2012-03-20TRACY PRICE: I used it cut with 25% turpintine. I then used an oil base primer witha latex top coat. It did a great job holding paint but the rough grain was still visable.
2012-03-20Floyd Joslin: Thank you. Apprecate you taking the time to respond...Floyd
2012-03-20STEPHEN SCALES: Hello Floyd J.
My name is Steve Scales. I used Linseed oil on my log cabin type home. I mix it 50/50 percent with turpentine.The new synthetic turpentine makes for better drying than the old " natural" stuff. The only painting over it I do is the windows on the outside. this is only for more water protection. Windows have been done this way sense 1953. by my father then by me.
2012-03-21Floyd Joslin: Thank you Steven. Didn't kmow that synthetic turpentine had a quicker drying time.Nice piece of info.
Floyd J
2011-12-23TODD HEIL asked: I've read a fair amount about the pro's and con's of raw vs boiled, but still there are questions. My project is a family heirloom, shotgun being restored.
It doesn't have much market value, but I want to do a good job to pass along to my son.
Drying time is not a consideration. I can leave it as long as needed between coats. But I still hear repeatedly that boiled linseed oil tends to leave a sticky surface. And i haven't found an expert to speak of specifically for redoing gun stocks.
What are your thoughts?
Thank you.
Todd Heil
+Expand Answers
2011-12-27RYAN TAYLOR: Boiled linseed will definitely leave a sticky residue...probably not what you want. Raw linseed oil may work for your project, but depending on conditions and amount applied, treated wood can have an "oily feel" for some time.
2011-12-27PENNY HARPER: Todd
I use both the boiled and raw in making my own glass putty for stain glass projects. I am sorry I can not be of more help.
Penny
2011-12-27CHARLES WALLACE: Todd, I wish I could answer you, but we used the linseed for raw outdoor split rail fencing. No idea on the gunstock.
2011-12-27PETER HOYNES: Either boiled or raw linseed oil will produce a fine finish however, you must remove all traces of laquer products using steel wool before finishing. It will take several hand-rubbed coats to achieve a good, deep finish.
2011-12-27DEAN PETERSEN: We bought it to finish the wood on a beehive (top-bar plan) -- the plan recommended melting beeswax in unboiled linseed oil and coating the structure well. It seems to have worked fine. About refinishing gun stocks, don't know. Dean and Madeleine
- Show quoted text -
2011-12-21PHIL STEELE asked: Is the raw linseed oil sold here safe for finishing wooden spoons and bowls? I am worried because the product says "inedible". Thanks in advance.
+Expand Answers
2011-12-22GEORGE KRANDA: I use mineral oil for wood utensils. It dries quickly and doesn't go rancid like vegetable oils. Raw linseed seems to never dry and boiled has ingredients I do not eat. (solvents, etc.)
2011-12-30R. G. HEST: Good morning Phil,
Raw linseed oil is not for internal consumption and should not be used on wooden implements that come into contact with food you eat.
It is a great product for outdoor protection from water and rain of almost all wood. I bought it to use in a mix of turpentine, raw linseed, and Penetrol that I applied to the cedar shakes on the outdoor walls of the addition to my home.
For finishing wooden bowls and other wooden implements that come into contact with food I eat, I use pharmaceutical grade mineral oil that I buy at a pharmacy -- it is safe, at least in my experience over the past 40 years of woodworking.
2011-12-30Phil Steele: Hi R.G.
Thanks for the information. I've just started working greenwood and I'd like to keep things traditional, including the finishes I use. I've been using mineral oil for my personal wooden ware for years and it seems to work fine as long as I continue to coat it every three or four washes. However, linseed oil has been used for centuries as a finish. So I guess I will stick with food grade flax seed oil. Again, thank you for the information.
2011-12-08A shopper asked: can you use boiled linseed oil thined with mineral spirets as a sealer coat before coating with shalic ?
+Expand Answers
2011-12-09THOMAS PRESCOTT: Shellac is a sealer so use that, perhaps thinned. Also, you don't want to mix oil based coatings with those that are alcohol based.
2011-12-09S FILLIPPONE: once it is dry would be best, but yes. please note that the product that you have listed this question under is regular linseed oil.
2011-12-09MICHAEL LANIER: I would not recommend using Linseed Oil, even thinned with mineral spirits, prior to applying Shellac because of the very long dry time for the Linseed Oil. The Shellac would not cover well nor adhere well the oil tread wood. While thinning with mineral spirits would reduce the drying time for the Linseed Oil, it could still be many weeks or months for complete drying.
Even if you were to wait for the oil to dry, Shellac is not a particularly durable sealer coat. You might consider waiting 72 hours after applying the thinned Linseed Oil and then applying a wipe-on Polyurethane. The Poly is easier to apply and produces a much harder, more durable finish coat. I regularly use the method, applying from two to seven coats of the Polyurethane - rubbing with "0000" steel wool between each coat of Ploy and Tac clothing before applying the next coat.
Michael Lanier
Anything Wood -
Antique Restorations and Repair
303-670-9908
Great for surfaces, that come in close contact with food, like breakfast boards, bows and countertops.
12/25/2010
5.0
linseed oil
By dongo
from west virginia
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Easy To Clean
Even Paint Distribution
Lightweight
Cons
Best Uses
Detailed Work
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
a little goes a long way. i use this for new as well as old finishes. does an excellent job.
11/3/2010
5.0
A great source for linseed oil.
By Roadchief
from Lakeport, CA
About Me Casual Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Easy To Clean
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
I like the bottle size and the great price [...]. It is very easy to appy and my wood products look so much better!
9/28/2010
(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Great product
By spinner55
from Northwestern Illinois
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
No one locally sells Raw Linseed oil around here. They only carry 'boiled' product that has added dryers in it. I use one part Raw linseed to 2 parts thinner to touch up military firearms. At least 10 coats with a rub of steel wool (0000) between coats. Gives the wood a nice old time look without hurting the valve of the firearm. Finish off by using 'gunny paste' which is a mixture of bee's wax / linseed oil / turpentine.
4/29/2010
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Great Product
By OldBow
from Missoula, MT
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Large Areas
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
Raw linseed oil is not available locally. I was pleased to be able to add it to a list of items I needed for my new rowboat. This is a great product for treating new plywood.
4/21/2010
(1 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Works as it should
By Nelle
from Craftsbury Common, VT
About Me Beginner
Pros
Goes On Easily
Cons
Best Uses
Detailed Work
Large Areas
Small Areas
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
I used a 20:1 mixture of this raw linseed oil to melted beeswax to coat the outside of a top bar beehive I constructed. It was easy to apply (went on evenly) and looks beautiful.
3/4/2010
(3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
4.0
Restoring Antiques
By Helping Hands Handy Women
from Detroit Michigan
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
I have been tought for years to simply restoe aniques without lessining the value you mix Raw lynseed oil to 1/3 turpentine and you get a antigue hydrated and in beautiful shape. It restores the woods moisture and luster.
2/14/2010
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
hard to find locally
By novice beekeeper
from Ohio
About Me Beginner
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
We needed raw linseed oil for a project involving a bee hive. We couldn't find it locally, but an internet search turned up Jamestown Distributors. It was easy[...]
11/1/2009
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
...
By Hobby Farmer
from Warfordsburg PA
About Me Novice
Pros
Dried quickly
No toxic additives
Cons
Best Uses
Chicken coop
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
I used this to paint the roosts and boxes in my henhouse, to smother mites. The raw oil did not harm the birds and despite warnings it dried in one day. Also this product arrived more quickly than anything I've ever ordered over the internet.
9/24/2009
5.0
A Must have for the coop
By Chicken man
from Central,Illinois
About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer
Pros
Easy to apply
Cons
Not avaiable locally
Best Uses
Large Areas
Comments about Recochem Linseed Oil:
This is an excellent product for chicken mites. I tried several different ways to combat the blood suckers and until I applied this I was loosing. My chickens are beginning to clear up just in a couple of weeks.
Price Match Promise:
If you find a lower delivered price on a new identical item in stock and available for purchase from an authorized U.S. merchant.
- email us at info@jamestowndistributors.com. This offer does not include special coupons or other promotional offers.
Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
Checkout: 
Item(s) in your cart:
The item was added to your wishlist.
