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BoatLIFE LifeSeal Polyurethane/Silicone Sealant is a one part, fast curing, low odor, high adhesion, non-sag compound. LifeSeal is excellent for sealing decks to hulls, underwater thru hull fittings, vinyl ports, windshield setting glaze and the bedding of marine hardware. It retains excellent adhesion and elasticity under all weather conditions.
Note: Select 1/12 gallon size for a standard caulking cartridge.
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LIMITATIONS LifeSeal is not recommended for use on ferro cement hulls where porous substrates permit water infiltration to bond interface. LifeSeal should not be applied to boat building materials that may bleed oil or solvents. These include, but are not limited to, impregnated wood or oil soaked materials. The sealant should not be applied in totally confined spaces as it requires atmospheric moisture to cure. If painting is required, paint prior to applying sealant, or the system should be pre-tested with the specific paint to be used. Generally painting over a rubber surface will not be successful as the film of paint will not stretch with the expansion of the rubber and adhesion of the ozone and temperature extremes. Its tensile strength, elongation, hardness, and adhesion do not change with age or weather. Because of its memory properties LifeSeal returns to its original shape and dimensions even after long periods of tensile or compression deformation. The sealant stays flexible indefinitely. Cured sealant will not harden with cold (-80 F) or soften with heat ( 400 F ) and is virtually unaffected by time or weather. When using in joints, it is recommended that a bond breaker of cotton be used to prevent the material from bonding to the bottom of the joint. Use of other types of material may result in staining of the surface and/or sealant.
JOINT DIMENSIONS LifeSeal is capable of withstanding extreme movement; however, we strongly recommend that joints be designed three times greater in width than the anticipated movement to help compensate for adverse field conditions. The joint width should not be less than 1/8". Joint depth should be a minimum of 1/4" to a maximum of 1/2".
INSTALLATION
PREPARATORY WORK The sealant bonding surfaces should be sound, clean, dry, and free of contamination such as release agents, water repellent treatment or other surface contaminants. Where adverse conditions are suspected, sanding is advisable. Clean surfaces to be caulked with Life Calk Solvent & Cleaner or Release.
METHOD OF APPLICATION LifeSeal can be applied directly from cartridges or bulk pails.
COMPOSITION & MATERIALS LifeSeal is a one-component, neutral emulsion of polyurethane and silicone polymers combined with proper crosslinking agents to form a unique sealant ready for use as supplied. Its ease of extrudability is unsurpassed and unaffected by extremes of temperature. Its "skin-over" time is 20 minutes or less, minimizing dirt pick-up. It cures rapidly to a firm rubber on contact with moisture from the atmosphere. Before material is cured, excess may be cleaned up with soap and water. Once cured, water will not affect the sealant. Under normal conditions LifeSeal will cure to a depth of 1/4" within 24 to 36 hours depending on temperature and humidity. LifeSeal is unsurpassed for long lasting performance in active joints with up to 75% total movement.
PACKAGING LifeSeal is packaged in 310 ml disposable cartridges fitting an ordinary caulking gun.
PACKAGE STABILITY 12 MONTHS at 75 F, & 50% relative humidity. Longer at a lower temperature and/or humidity.
COLORS LifeSeal is available in white, black, clear, and aluminum; other colors on special order only.
APPLICABLE STANDARDS LifeSeal exceeds the requirements of the Federal Specifications TT-S-001543A (COM-NBS) Type Non-Sag Class A. LifeSeal is impervious to the effects of sunlight, rain, or snow. The sealant can be applied as low as 10 F, provided the surfaces are clean, dry, and frost free.
Maximum Movement Cap. In % 75%
Practical Joint Design Recommended 3X Movement
Life Expectancy In Years: Mild Conditions 20+, Severe Conditions 15+
Joint Requirements
Minimum Width 1/8"
Ideal Width 1/4"
Minimum Depth 1/4"
Maximum Width 1"
Depth Range 1/4" to 1/2"
TYPICAL PROPERTIES After 7 Days at 77 F and 50% Relative Humidity
Tensile Strength 290 psi
Elongation 350%
Specific Gravity .99
Lap Shear 240 psi
Tear Strength 30 psi
Flow (inches) Nil
Weathering No Change in hardness
Compression Set 3.75%
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Yes
BRAND:
Boatlife
Material:
Silicone and Polyurethane
Rate Of Cure:
Fast
Strength:
Fair
Type:
Adhesive
Usage:
Sealing
Questions & Answers about BoatLife Lifeseal:
2013-05-14DREW SNILLOR asked: I have restored bronze portlights and am preparing to re-install them. Previously, the exterior "trim/dressing" was teak...I have changed those dressings to starboard. Question: Will Lifeseal remain attached to the starboard? I feel it will adhere to the bronze without problem. There have been numerous leaks previously...I want them to stop!
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2013-05-30WILLIAM DONOHUE: I haven't used this product for that specific purpose. However, I have used a lot of Lifeseal and do feel it is the best of all similar products. I am confident you will be happy with it. If I had any leaks, it's the first stuff I would try. Hope this helps.
2013-06-06Drew Snillor: thank you sir...any input is great. i will "rough sand' the edges of the starboard to help the caulk get a better grip.
regards, drew
2013-05-03BILL BAUERSFELD asked: I need to glue glass to glass, glass to porcelain and glass to metal. The glued up pieces will be outdoors year round in NE Pa. Will life-seal be a good glue for this type of application?
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2013-06-03DERRICK GALEN: Bill,
I think Life-seal will work very well for those applications. I use it seal Lexan to aluminum hatch frames, varnished wood, and painted fiberglass. It has held up for the last approximately 20 years. It failed once when I applied it in temperatures around 40 degrees F.
Good luck,
2013-06-03Bill Bauersfeld: Derrick:
Sounds as if this is just what I need. Thanks for your response.
Bill
2013-06-04FREDERICK CARTER: Bill,
Wow! I've not tried the glass to glass, but as Boatlife remains pliable, I bet it would work. Your glass to glass may be cold outside, warm inside so the flex will be even more important. The other glue joints should be OK for the same reason.
Regards ...
2013-06-05Bill Bauersfeld: Frederick:
Thanks for your response. I think you are correct that the flex may be very important, especially when I'm joining glass to glass.
Thanks again,
Bill
2013-06-08JASON WALL: Lifeseal will provide a good seal with mild to moderate adhesion; if strong adhesion is required then I would use 3M 5200 which is nearly permanent.
2013-06-08Bill Bauersfeld: Jason:
Thanks for the tip. The only problem I see with the 3M 5200 is that I can only find it in white or black. When I'm gluing up glass I need a clear adhesive.
Thanks,
Bill
2012-09-05RICH LAST NAME asked: how many linear feet will a large tube cover? I'm doing a deck approx 50 feet in total length.
2012-06-06TOM GILL asked: can it be applied externally to a cracked pvc hot tub line?
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2012-06-06FREDERICK CARTER: Tom,
The BoatLife Lifeseal and Caulk are great products and I would use no other for caulking and seating. I have never used the BoatLife in your application. My opinion is that it is a sealant and not a glue. I would not use it for your application, unless you used an external reinforcement (larger diameter pipe) with clamps.
Sorry I can do no better.
Regards ...
2012-06-07ANDREW RITCHIE: In my opinion, this is not an appropriate application for this product. This is a bedding compound intended to form a gasket-like sealing interface between two surfaces. It will not be successful in pthing a crack externally on a PVC substrate. Suggest sanding then applying a fiberglass tape wrap with next resin if replacement if the failed component is not feasible.
2012-06-07MARSHA PERKINSON: The package says it adheres to "ABS and other plastics." So, I would think that it would adhere to PVC pipes. I use it around the house for any caulking that needs to be done, inside and outside. Works great for me.
Another suggestion that I know for a fact works on PVC pipes is Mighty Putty (check Amazon for this). We had a PVC pipe in the basement that we no longer wanted connected. The plumber put a cap on it but it leaked water all the time, so I got the Mighty Putty and applied where the cap met the pipe and no more leaks.
2012-06-12JAMES RICHARDSON: I think this is an excellent product, but not for this purpose.
Splice in a new piece of pvc line.
2011-10-03CHALY BOSCH asked: what would be the best boat life product to use for seams in a shower stall on a boat?
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2011-10-04THOMAS VANDERMEULEN: Lifeseal
2011-10-06PAUL CAPRIO: I do recommend a siliconn seal that is specified for wet room and bathroom use in the house. Something to buy at Home Depot.
Life seal is particulary usefull when UV radiation is also in the game, like on outer seals, windsheilds etc,
Best Dietmar
2011-07-14JIM Z asked: Would you use lifeseal to seal the metal screws and holes that were screwed into an aluminum boat to hold on a bracket for a fish finder transducer?
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2011-07-15DENNIS FAIST: Yes, Boatlife Lifeseal can be used for bedding your fish finder bracket to the boat console and it will also seal the screws and holes.
2011-07-15HARRY YOUNG: Jim,
I would...Some paints might have difficulty painting over this product so check compatibility with the top coating you might be using or a required primer sealer before top coating is applied over the sealer.
Harry
2011-07-16P. SWEARINGEN: Yes, BUT...
You don't give very much information so I will make the assumption that this is an underwater application. Â You say "metal" screws, but the type of metal is VERY important. Â Although aluminum and stainless steel get along fine above the waterline, stainless steel should never be used underwater. Â When it is, such as for prop shafts and trim tabs, notice that there is always a sacrificial anode attached to protect the stainless steel from corrosion.
For an aluminum hull you should use aluminum fasteners. Â If you can't find the correct aluminum fasteners you need for your application then use bronze. Â However, when aluminum and bronze are in contact with each other underwater they form a galvanic cell and the aluminum corrodes. Â If you use bronze fasteners you will need to completely electrically isolate them from your aluminum hull with plastic sleeves and washers (they are made just for this purpose). Â But it is much easier and there is less potential for leaks to just use aluminum fasteners. Â The same goes for your fish finder bracket - if it is not also aluminum then it too will need to be electrically isolated from your aluminum hull.
I have used BoatLIFE Life-Seal both above and below the waterline as a sealant for various materials and am very satisfied with it. The tube does say that Life-Seal is for use with aluminum. Â Be sure that your contact surfaces are clean clean clean! Â You might want to roughen smooth contact surfaces with some 120 grit sandpaper. Â Some people advocate further tightening fasteners after the sealant has cured - this is a bad idea as doing so has the potential to break the bond between the sealant and fastener, and at the very least puts it under stress and it may separate over time. Â
I hope this answers your question.
Priscilla
2011-07-17JASON WALL: Jim,
Yes, lifeseal would be very appropriate for that application.
The lifeseal can also help retard galvanic activity between dissimilar metals that can lead to corrosion as well. Stainless screws tend to rust when contacting aluminum in a marine environment. In fresh water there are fewer corrosion concerns.
Regards,
Jason
2011-07-17JASON WALL: Addendum: The stainless would attack the aluminum as it is more noble, cationic, and there could be some corrosion of the aluminum.
Disregard my comment about the stainless rusting as that was not accurate.
Jason
2011-07-18ANDREW OMSTEAD: For anything permanent at, under, or around the waterline I would only use polyurethane.
2011-07-19GARY INGRAHAM: I used the lifeseal around the portlights I rebedded. If I need to seal something below the waterline I would use something like 3M adhesive sealant.
I attempted to do the same thing as the previous reviewer, re-bed a piece of lexan in a metal frame hatch. I had the exact same problems as the previous reviewer: a gooey, non-curing mess. I would avoid this product.
Was this a gift?:
No
4/26/2011
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
1.0
Did not cure and made a holy mess
By Todd
from Northport NY
About Me Advanced
Pros
Cons
Ineffective
Messy
Best Uses
Comments about BoatLife Lifeseal:
Used a 10oz cartridge to seal a Lexan lens to a metal hatch frame. Still a gooey mess after 2 weeks, and when it rained it left black streaks on the decks. Awful job to clean it all off to re-do the job.
My guess is that the curing agent separated from the sealant while on the store shelf. Poor shelf life. Don't gamble with this.
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