Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue

	TBP-1414 Pint TBP-1414PT TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE PT 12/CS $12.75 / pt for 1 pt and more In stock   qty.
	TBP-1415 Quart TBP-1415 TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE QT 6/CS $21.42 / qt for 1 qt and more In stock   qty.
	TBP-1416 Gallon TBP-1416 TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE GL 2/CS $52.07 / gl for 1 gl and more In stock   qty.

Questions & Answers about Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue: 2012-06-21 WILLIAM RICHARDS asked: Can I usr Titebond III Ultimate Glue wood to make laminated wood frames , water may be in the bilge at times, but I plan to seal and paint the frames also.? +Expand Answers 2012-07-23 Nathan Fournier: I recommend using "WEST SYSTEM" epoxy in conjunction with "WSY-404" which has the highest rating for laminating instead, this will ensure maximum strength and waterproofing, afterwards a simple sand and clean and it's ready for paint, thank you. 2012-05-17 A shopper asked: how long do I have to work the parts together before the glue skins over ? +Expand Answers 2012-06-19 F.P. LYNAH III: Open time on III is advertised as 15 minutes, I have found that I want my joint together in 5 and clamped in 10. Pre-glue test fits are the key. III IS the best there is by the way. FPL III 2012-06-20 SCOTT J BELL: The size of your glue surface ( the time it takes to cover the glue area(s) the air and material temp all need to be considered when gluing up. Open glued faces remain usable for perhaps 5-7 minutes ? I've worked multi layer laminations for as much as 15 -20 minutes by gluing the laminates and placing them together keeping the air off the surfaces then bringing them to the mold ,clamping to the desired shape. Practice on less complicated glue ups will provide the experience to confidently engage in bigger laminations/ Scott B 2012-06-20 MARK WALLACE: At least a few minutes, but passes fast if you are working. I have used it to glue 1 1/2" X 9 foot slates in a curved form together and it gave me enough time to apply glue and clamp it in place. 2012-06-20 JOE THOMPSON: when I am strip planking it often takes 5-10 minutes to get the strip in place and clamped. Longer than 10 minutes would definitely cause skin over problems. JT 2011-12-13 JIM BUSARD asked: Can Titebond III be used for below waterline boat building or not? I see conflicting reports. +Expand Answers 2011-12-29 LYLE E. CARLON: No 2011-12-30 ALAN BANKS: I have never used it for under water like on a boat, but getting rained on does not seem to hurt it at all; but here is a forum post about from a wood working magazine: Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:20 am Post subject: Titebond III Does not Perform -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wood Magazine this month has a great article comparing the major brand glues. The 6 page article tests for strength and water resistance. In a water resistant test, glued joints were submerged in water for 24 hours. Surprisingly Titebond III scored worse than Titebond II. The TB II joint held up to about 300 PSI. TB III failed at about 200 PSI. So I guess you should save your money. TBIII is typically 60% more expensive than TB II. There was a discussion a few weeks ago about the TB III compared to Polyurethanes for water resistance. Polyurethanes win. In the same test as mentioned above, the Elmer's ProBond and Gorilla Glue Polyurethane joint held up to almost 1000 PSI. TB III held up to 200 PSI. 2011-12-30 MARK BALENOVIC: I'm far from the ocean out here in New Mexico, but I have cold-molded a 10'- dinghy, and done other marine woodwork, often out in the field. I would only trust a good 2-part epoxy formulated for submerged hulls - like the West System resins. The Titebond III is a fantastic glue, good outdoors in our climate with abrupt extreme weather changes. When the joining surfaces are well-mated, and there is enough glue, and there is good saturation into the dry wood, then everything is all right. But failures do occur when the gluing workmanship is of a poor quality. Epoxy resins are more difficult to use, but more forgiving of hasty joinery, and you can add fillers (after you've saturated the mating surfaces first, for a few minutes, or until the wood has stopped absorbing the resin and remains wetted), which allow for a sloppy fit to hold well. If you want to experiment, glue up a decent sized test joint or laminate two strips together, submerge the piece in a bucket of water for a week, and then try to destroy the joint. The wood should fail first. 2011-12-30 JOE THOMPSON: I use tightbond 3 in my strip built boats to glue strips to each other, but that glue is then encapsulated in epoxy and fiberglass. I find that if I stick a glue brush in warm water after using it I can easily clean the glue out of the brush the next day. This makes me reluctant to use it under the water line or any place structural unless it is encapsulated in epoxy and glass. 2011-12-30 MICHAEL WARREN: While Titebond III is theoretically waterproof, I would not use it below the waterline. I would suggest 5200 or similar product. 2011-12-30 ROGER FURLONG: I can just say what they advertise. It is waterproof once dry. I used it to glue two pieces of plywood together to restore my transom. 2012-01-01 RAYMOND HY: Jim, Personal opinion here, but I would use either an epoxy based adhesive or something like 3-M 5200 on below waterline applications. I do think highly of Titebond III and have used it successfully on above waterline applications that were occasionally exposed to moisture but were sealed with a paint or varnish. I hope this helped. Ray 2011-11-14 A shopper asked: Does this product make any claims of UV resistance? I am considering it for the glue uuup of a mast and will be using Watco Danish oil as a finish, ( not traditional I know but I have had very good luck with Watco applicaation ease, mauintainence, and durability, plus I don't plan on submerging my mast. +Expand Answers 2011-11-14 JAMES CRAWFORD: The glue joint really shouldn't be much of a problem as far as UV exposure goes, if you use the glue as a glaze than maybe, but just as a glue up I've never heard of problems stemming from that issue. This product is definitely your best bet for your application though. (although if you're not submerging your mast or using it as a cutting board, then you might have just as good luck with Titebond II, and save yourself a few pennies) -All the Best 2011-11-15 RAYMOND HY: I have sucsessfully used TiteBond III to glue Mahogany to Mahogany and Mahogany to Marine Plywood. The assemblies were finished with water based stain and then received 6 coats of marine varnish. I have seen so signs of seperation or failure at the joints. Realistically, the glue joint will not be exposed directly to sunlight so I'm not sure UV resistance would be an issue. (as long as the wood is sealed) I would focus the question more on what kind of wood are you glueing together ( is this glue the best choice for that wood?) and what kind of shear loads will the glue joint be put under. A mast can be placed under considerable load so I recommend some careful research prior to laying it up. Good Luck- Ray Hy

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