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207 Special Clear Hardener was especially developed for use with West System 105 resin in coating applications where an exceptionally clear moisture-resistant natural wood finish is desired.
Improved formula chemistry allows for true clear cure with same UV stability without amber tint. An ultraviolet inhibiting additive improves the resistance of a West System 105/207 mixture to sunlight but the cured epoxy surface will still require the additional protection of a quality UV-filtering varnish.
207 is designed to self level for smooth finishes and to wet-out and bond fabrics. Although it provides good physical properties for general bonding applications, it is more difficult to thicken and less cost effective for this purpose than 205 or 206 hardeners. It's also used for laminating veneers where bleed through at joints may be exposed to sunlight.
$81.52
$38.93
$260.12
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*********CANNOT BE SHIPPED BY AIR*********
Mix Ratio, Resin:Hardener
3:1 by volume (3.5:1 by weight)
Pot life at 72 F (22 C)
22 to 27 minutes
Cure to a solid state
9 to 12 hours
Cure to maximum strength
4 to 7 days
Minimum recommended temperature
60 F (16 C)
Pumps required
300, 306-23 or 309-3
Excellent long-term clarity due to improved chemistry and stabilization with UV filters
Superior blush resistance
Extended recoating time
Excellent fiberglass wet out characteristics
Ideal viscosity for buildup coats
Excellent paint and varnish compatibility
Excellent physical properties for bonding
BRAND:
WEST System
Material:
Epoxy
Type:
Hardener
Usage:
Clear Coating
Questions & Answers about WEST System 207 Special Clear Hardener:
2013-05-18KRISTI DUCKWORTH asked: has anyone used this for glass on glass mosaics?
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2013-05-18GLENN PALMER: Haven't tried it for this purpose. But, it does harden as colorless if your'e looking for a non-yellowing effect.
2013-02-26A shopper asked: when gluing teak wood together would it be better to use the 207 hardener from west?
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2013-02-27JAMES YONKERS: This is a clear drying hardener, but will yellow in long term storage of 1 yr.
for light woods it is great, for dark woods like Mahogeny it makes no difference, so if your teak is aged and its a repair, use std hardener, but new use the clear 207
the natural oils in teak hinder to some degree the strength of cured epoxy, clean the edges to be glued with a solvent
2013-02-27MARC ORNSTEIN: The word better implies that you are asking if using 207 hardener would be better than some alternative. My question is "better than what?"
In my opinion, using 205 or 206 would generally be better options as they are less expensive and thicken more readily. Since all but the very surface of the glue joint is protected from UV rays and clarity is not likely an issue, I can think of no reason to recomend the 207 for your application.
2013-02-27PETER MACFARLANE: My experience is using 207 for clear-coating cedar canoes, not for gluing as such. However, I'm not sure why you would use the more expensive formula for a job that does not require it's main property - clarity. It also has a fairly slow cure, so you would have to clamp for longer. My suggestion would be 205 for a quicker cure (but - disclaimer - I've never glued teak).
2013-02-28PAUL MILLER: I've never used on to glue Teak.
If you read the info sheet it is for coating things more than gluing.
I'd stick to the slow set hardener.
Paul
2012-12-23A shopper asked: how long between coats?
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2012-12-27MICHAEL WAGNER: I used this over the winter in the basement, so the temperatures were probably mid-50's-60. I allowed 24 hours between coats, put 4 coats over some fine wood, and the results were superb and it held up to the expected abuse during the season as expected.
2012-12-27STEVE REYNOLDS: It depends on temperature, humidity etc. I've never had a problem with West epoxy setting up, and I've found the hardener/resin mix forgiving within reason. I used the 207 hardener/resin to seal a cherry vanity to be used as the base for a bathroom sink . Because the epoxy is relatively soft i.e. prone to scratching, I put a couple coats of clear polyurethane varnish over the epoxy. I consider epoxy ready for top-coating when it is hard - scratch it with a knife and see. It can be as short as a couple hours. I contacted WestSystem technical support (number on their web site) for this project because my first resin coat (I used three) developed bubbles. In my case, I applied the resin, then put the piece in the sun thinking this would speed the cure - what happened was the increase in temperature raised the air pressure in the wood forcing it out into the resin and causing bubbles. I would contact tech support directly with questions.
2012-12-28GLENN PALMER: I applied coats only once a day, after work, so I can't say how quickly coats can be applied. Once a day was certainly okay.
2012-09-19JC JUFER asked: hello
Iam doing a penny floor and it was suggested that I use this product.. was wondering though after opened how long will the product last in its cans?? also how durable is it actually to the people that have used the product?? will it stand up to walking on it (using it in the hall way).. can it be taped off, will the tape easily be removed after drying?? thankss
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2012-09-20PETER MACFARLANE: I've never used this for floors, only for clear-coating wooden canoes, so don't know about durability for foot travel. But it keeps in the can for at least 18 months (I haven't trried longer yet). Try to avoid extremes of temperature during storage. For taping, I would suggest removing before the epoxy sets fully, otherwise any overlap of the tape is likely to cause tearing. Another thought - will this floor be exposed to UV light? If, so, use a good quality UV inhibitor coating over the epoxy, otherwise it will gradually go cloudy. Good luck!
2012-09-20JAMES YONKERS: the West System is a great epoxy, I use it like many others for boat building, in addition I use it for office desk tops, on raw wood slabs, last for many years and if needed a lite sanding and recoat can be applied
no it cannot be taped, the epoxy will adhear the tape to the wood or project.
some will varnish over the epoxy, I have done this on older boats, using the epoxy as a saturant, and using a lower cost finish like varnish.
but West System Epoxy can be sanded and waxed for a deep finish.
I have some West product that is several yeas old, there is a tendency to turn a honey color when its that old but the adhesion and cure is always good.
but its a safe bet to use it all right a way for a clear color, they make a special clear finish and you might want to use that for a clear floor.
2012-09-20FRANCIS CASEY: We use the 207 hardner specifically for areas exposed regularly to sunlight in need of UV protection. Varnish repairs. I would be reluctant to leave tape in place on any epoxy aplication.
2012-09-20BARRY KAROW: I've used this product to make cedar strip canoes, using pumps to dispense the 105 and 207. Shelf life has been a year or more, in a closed can with the pump remaining in the can.
I can't comment on your other questions of durability or taping.
Barry
2012-09-20TOM SCHREEDER: Product is still usable in can which was purchased about 2 years ago. I guess you do know that this hardener is to be mixed with another material to create an epoxy which is pretty durable. I can not say for how long as we have since sold the boat, but it was still looking pretty good then. As one normally wears softer sole, non-skid shoes on a boat, I could not predict how long the epoxy would last in a differant enviroment. Never had a need to tape it. This is about the best I can do.
2012-09-20JOHN HOUGHTON: jc.......we bought the West System 207 hardener and the 105 epoxy resin 2 years ago to use on the mahogany console of a boat restoration project. We also bought the pumper tops that fit on the cans. The following year we used the products again on 4 more pieces of wooden furniture. Today, the product seems to still be fine and would not be afraid to use it again, even being 2 years old. We do keep the products in a storage area where they would not freeze in the winter. We are very satisfied with the protection and durability that the West System gave to our pieces, since they will have to withstand the outdoor elements. Our results seem to be hard-as-nails strong and don't know why you could not use it on the floor. No experience with tape though.
Good luck!
2012-08-25OMER ONGUT asked: I am building a western red cedar strip planked rowboat with clear finish using 105/207
When i applied the base coat on bare wood, i was not happy with the finish due to rough spots and contamination.
I am thinking of wet sanding this layer and applying another coat before applying the glass fibre.
Would this dull the end product in any way?
Regards, Omer.
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2012-09-06MICHAEL LAUER: I use 105/207 on Western Red Cedar.
I always sand after the first coat to remove the nibs from the wood. I happen to dry sand and I don't try to be perfect about it. After this you can apply a second coat, which will lay flatter than the first coat and completely seal the wood. The sanding dulls the surface but this disappears as soon as a next layer is applied.
In my application, I'm not using glass fibre. I'm building a base with 5-6 coats of 205/207 and let cure for a week (longer if cool weather). After that I wet sand so that there is no gloss left (to 150G) and wipe with Interlux 202 to remove any remaining wax.
My top coat is 5 coats of Epifants 2-part clear gloss polyurethane sprayed. The finish is water-clear.
2012-09-06PHILIP MITCHELL: Omer,
I would NOT wet sand it but use some 60g followed by 100g. Then lay the cloth on and squeegy into place . Follow this with anough coats of 105/207 to overfill the weave of the cloth. Then sand it smooth being careful not to sand through to the cloth itself.
There was a good write up in Epoxyworks Magazine by Ted Moores. Find that by contacting West Systems. I'm sure they can get you a copy.
Follow it and you fill find sucess.
2012-09-06MAYNARD LAGACE: Not being an "expert" on the matter, i would say it shouldn't be a problem as long as you use the same product on the area in question. I have not had the problem sealing my cedar strip canoes. I use 105/207 West System. All the new hardeners are clear. In the past, it had an amber tint to it which gave the wood an awesome look, plus it was easier to tell when the two were mixed properly. The new stuff works well though. Hope this helps ...
Maynard
2012-09-06SUSAN LITTIN: We use west to water proof vintage automobile coach work. While we use Bristol Finish on visible wood I believe the process would be the same. We wet sand every thing visible prior to applying either product. Clean very well prior to application, it will not cloud. The key would be to do a test area on the bottom of the boat.
We have a '53 Christ Craft and will be heading down the same path this winter. Good luck!
2012-09-06R M HUNGATE: a problem could develop if the surface is not completly dry (free of water) before putting on the second coat of epxoy. If the layer blushes (turns milky in color, water got into the layer somehow. So afer wet sanding, let it sun dry or blow dry for a while.
2012-01-18MICHAEL MORTON asked: I'm interested in using this to fill voids in wood and also general joint construction in furniture making. I've used the 206 in the past with great results - also used with the West Filler Additive for loose-fitting joints.
I'm intrigued by this "clear" 207 - but wondering if the strength is the same as the 206 I've been using - especially for loose-joint construction with the filler.
Is the strength properties the same as the 206/205 - just more clear?
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2012-01-19BARRY BOWDEN: I have used this product and was happy with how it turned out. I built my kayak with it and in most cases I added wood flour to give it more body to fill in crevices and holes. Once dry, I would sand smooth. However, if you use a filler, it will not be clear anymore.
2012-01-20MAYNARD LAGACE: I've been using the 207 Special Coating hardener the past 5 years in my cedar strip canoe construction with great results. Also as a glue for the paddles. My only regret is that the 207 hardener only comes in "clear", as in the past it had an amber tint which helped to tell when it was thoroughly mixed and enhanced the natural colors of the wood more than the clear.
The 207 seems to be quite strong and with the fillers and microfibers, works
quite well.
good luck ...
Maynard
2012-01-20BRAD WALSH: Hi
Best bet is to call West tech support. They are friendly and easy to talk to.
Brad
2011-07-02DONNA CAPRI asked: what do you apply the epoxy with, a brush or sponge?
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2011-07-07KEN RYAN: Our local 'big box' store sells rollers specifically made for applying adhesives. I've been very happy with my results using them, but remember the professional painters trick of cleaning the fluff out of a new roller by rolling it over several lengths of blue painters tape before applying any finish.
2011-07-07JOHN JENKINS: Apply with West System foam roller, then drag with a foam brush to remove air bubbles.
2011-07-07KEITH FELDER: I build South Louisiana Traditional Wooden Boats from 800 + year old cypress logs. I use the 207 special clear as a varnish to seal the wood and then come back with a top coat of UV varnish on top of the epoxy. The 207 will not become milky or cloudy. We normally use a roller and tip with a brush. Thank you, Keith @ Keiths Pirogues
2011-07-07JOHN MENGES: Hi Dona - I use a body putty spreader whenever I can. When it comes down to the last coat or 2, I use a brush. I have found that the cheap foam brushes tend to break down aftrer a very short time. I use either "chip" brushes or the black poly brushes - both tend to lose bristles but the black is easier to see and remove. I have not ordered the foam rollers or brushes from West so I can't say if they are better or not. Several articles in Wooden Boat mag. have suggested buying the foam rollers and making your own brushes from pieces of the roller - I never seem to plan that far ahead.
Good Luck with your project,
Jack
2011-07-08JEFFREY AMBROSE: I apply epoxy with a brush or roller. I have used natural bristle brushes and a foam (disposable) rollers. Note that epoxy resin (West System 205) mixed with this and other hardeners will cure more quickly with elevated summer temperatures and has a limited pot life. Review the manufacturer's data sheets before mixing the two and plan your work accordingly.
2011-07-08CHRISTOPHER DELP: I used a brush, make sure you pull on the bristles to remove any loose ones.
2011-07-08ROBBIN RODDEWIG: Hi Donna,
I used a brush. I think a foam brush would work as well as long as it is rated for solvents and such. I have not had good luck with Home Depot foam brushes but I would bet Jamestown and West Marine have epoxy rated foam brushes.
The cheap way I did it since I do not feel it is reasonable to clean the brush was to get some low price brushes in a pack at the depot, comb them out with a brush comb to rid them of bristles that may come out and toss them after use. Just don't get the chip brushes at the Depot, they shed to much.
2011-07-09CARL STEINORTH: I generally am applying clear hardner over fiberglass. For this, I use a squeegee (hard plastic edge tool) to fill in the figerglas. Pour the epoxy in a puddle on a relatively flat surface and spread it using the squeegee. For small areas, a chip brush is good except you have to watch for bristles. Good Luck, its not as hard as it seems.
2011-07-09TIM SKOK: Use a bristle brush that is disposable, like a chip brush, or an acid brush.
2011-07-12TOM SHIRLEY: Donna, I haven't used a sponge to apply epoxy but it may work alright if you were applying a very thin layer. I generally use inexpensive (disposable) brushes in job appropriate sizes to apply epoxy. If you are working with large surface areas a plastic squeegee/spreader works well to spread the epoxy around. I often use rollers and foam brushes when working on larger projects such as fiberglassing canoes.
Comments about WEST System 207 Special Clear Hardener:
Use this hardener when you will be clear coating and UV is a concern.
Was this a gift?:
No
12/27/2012
4.0
High Quality Product
By J Mama
from Danbury Ct
About Me Professional
Pros
Clarity
Easy to mix
Easy To Sand Or Shape
Easy to Use
Good Adhesion
No Odors
Visually Pleasing
Cons
Confusing Tech Support
Oily Wood Non Friendly
Best Uses
Indoor
Outdoor
Quick Fix
Structural Adhesive
Wood Sealer
Wood Trim
Comments about WEST System 207 Special Clear Hardener:
This is an awesome product. I have yet to discover what can be done with it. Adding fillers and coloring agents, repairs to center boards, hulls and other plastic, fibreglass parts become an easy project. Due to wood out gassing, my current restoration ( Mahogany) project has been quite difficult. Attempts for help have been frustrating. Overall I am very happy with this product.
Was this a gift?:
No
6/7/2012
4.0
Couldn't unscrew lid
By Echo5000
from Orlando, FL
About Me Advanced
Pros
Visually Pleasing
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about WEST System 207 Special Clear Hardener:
Thanks for a chance to respond, the 207 hardener wasn't able to open. The screw on lid was adhered to the "flange" and that was spinning around, there had been some leakage during shipping. I was unable to open the lid correctly, not sure if it was West Systems or Jamestown's doing but it made application harder. Finally just had to punch two holes in it and pour it out that way, wish I could of used my pumps though...It seemed I lost about a quarter of the can during transit. Other than that, you're all great. Talk soon.
Was this a gift?:
No
4/11/2009
(3 of 4 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Nice Finish, Be Aware of Product Change
By Mike Lauer
from Mitchellville, Maryland
About Me Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Outdoor
Comments about WEST System 207 Special Clear Hardener:
I like this product for exterior use under a varnish. In my own tests it at least doubles the life of the varnish.
Be aware that West is changing 207 from "Special Coating Hardener" to "Special Clear Hardener" under the same part number. The new product drops the Amber tint. Normally this isn't a big deal but if you are caught in the middle of a project and switch there can be a noticeable difference. It would be nice if West would have a tint additive if you wanted to continue using the Amber product (which is discontinued in production) much the same as Crystalac does with its warm dye toner, which changes the clear to traditional varnish tone.
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Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
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