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West System 410 Microlight is the ideal low-density filler for creating a light easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing large areas. Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or microballoons and is approximately 30% easier to sand.
410 feathers to a fine edge and is also more economical for large fairing jobs. Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high temperatures. Cures to a tan color.
$16.15
$32.04
$292.33
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BRAND:
WEST System
Type:
Fillers
Questions & Answers about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
2013-01-26A shopper asked: Hearing problem. Interested in consistency of "peanut butter" for fairing? Can't hear all that is said.
Thanks,
J
+Expand Answers
2013-01-29RICAHRD VAN VORIS: "peanut butter" simply means the viscosity of the mix. Mostly used on vertical surfaces so that it will stay put and not sag. If you mix to this consistenty make sure you mix the epoxy first then add the 410 incrementaly to desired consistency. Make sure the 410 is mixed carefully with no dry pockets.
Good Luck
2013-01-29JACKIE PEPPE: I used this stuff for filling in nail heads and dings in the planking of a wood and canvas canoe before canvassing. It is light, easy to apply, and sanded off about the same as the cherry planks. didn't seem to shrink as it cured. I'd say it was a great product.
Jackie
2013-01-29John Duncan: I used "peanut butter" Microlight to fair the outside of my hull (topside) as well as the inside of my cabin walls, engine compartment, lockers. Trowel on, sands and shapes very easily, although for any high impact areas (chain lockers etc.) you'll want to overcoat (roll/brush) 1-2 layers of unthickened WEST System for ding resistance before painting. To the top layer(s) in wet (external/bilge) areas consider adding 422 Barrier Coat Additive, which at 10-20% by weight doesn't have much thickening effect. Also, if you're surfacing a whole compartment, consider not painting at all and instead use WEST System white or gray dye -- this is what I do in chain lockers and bilges, because painting those areas is just silly and high maintenance. To give you some idea of proportions, I find that 10 pumps each of 105/207 takes about a third of a large (20 oz?) can of Microlight to get to "peanut butter." I use "large" tupperware bins from the supermarket (basically cheap-o disposable salad bowls) and have a solid stick ready for stirring -- no flimsy little pine or plastic. Finally, note that I said 207 (hardener), not 205 or 206. If you're mixing large batches (like for fairing), you'll need the Extra Slow working time so it doesn't kick in the pot. Good luck!
2013-01-29WILLIAM MATTHEWS: I have not used "peanut butter thickness" as I have only used it to thicken for void filling when scarfing planks, mostly 1/2' X 6". I have been using West with no filling to prime and soak in to the wood ( this helps bonding) and then thicken for the final fit to that of thick molasses.
2013-01-29ROBERT VINSON: Mix so it spreads nicely without skipping. Also thick enough so it does not sag. Mix is not critical to finished product. Consistancy can be from "mayonaise" to "peanut butter" thickness. Product is very easily sanded. Should be able to sand by hand with fairing block and make "auto body smooth". It will shrink a bit so multiple coats may be necessary. Coat then sand then coat then sand. This is a very good product!!!
2013-01-30GORDON FRISBEY: Keep adding filler until the mix is the same consistency as if you were stirring peanut butter.
2013-01-30John Duncan: Correction to my response yesterday: the Extra Slow Hardener is WEST System 409, not 407 ... for those large fairing jobs.
2013-01-31MARCY CELLA: We did not use it for fairing but we used it in the seams.
We used it many years ago and this product held up.
M
2013-01-20A shopper asked: I am thinking of using this to fill a ding in the side of a wooden hull (above waterline). Do I need to remove all paint in the damaged area or can I get away with a rough sanding before applying?
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2013-01-22TIM SMITH: An 80-grit sanding is fine, and you don't have to be too fussy about getting all the old paint off--although if it's just a ding, it shouldn't be much more work to take it down to the wood. Sanding that stuff is no fun, better to use a cabinet scraper to shape it when it dries.
2013-01-22TROY NICOLINI: Sure, you can just sand the paint but then the filler will then only stick as well as your paint. But if your paint is in good condition then your approach will work ok. I do love this filler. if you mix it thick enough to
fill a big hole ( even as big as a half olive) then it will cure pretty soft. this is great for fairing a hull that is made of softwood because the wood and filler will sand at the same rate. if your hull is made of hardwood then i would recomend adding in a heavier filler. I actually use a litlle coloidal silica for this even though that's not a stated use for this product but i love how it affects the workability of the filler mix. remember to wear a dust mask with all these additives since they are very hard on your lungs. good luck, Troy
2013-01-22TROY NICOLINI: Sure, you can just sand the paint but then the filler will then only stick as well as your paint. But if your paint is in good condition then your approach will work ok. I do love this filler. if you mix it thick enough to
fill a big hole ( even as big as a half olive) then it will cure pretty soft. this is great for fairing a hull that is made of softwood because the wood and filler will sand at the same rate. if your hull is made of hardwood then i would recomend adding in a heavier filler. I actually use a litlle coloidal silica for this even though that's not a stated use for this product but i love how it affects the workability of the filler mix. remember to wear a dust mask with all these additives since they are very hard on your lungs. good luck, Troy
2013-01-22DONALD RIGGS: I never used it on wood but fiberglass I would definitely clean the area down to base. I use this product in a slurry that's about the consistency of peanut butter.
Hope this helps.
2013-01-23WILLIAM CZAJKA: In a perfect world, probably remove the paint, but, if the ding is small and you want to get on with your life......
Give it a try. Rough sand 80 grit. Clean, clean, clean, and go for it.
2013-01-23JOHN C GUILLOT III: Epoxy should always be applied directly to the substrate. The adhesion properties of epoxy is 3000psi regular marine paint maybe 30-50psi. If the repair is larger than a silver dollar I would use the 406 to build up then the 410 to fair out.
2013-01-23DAVID SKRIDULIS: I'd remove most of the paint in the damaged area. Not saying it won't work if you don't, but for the best chance of good adhesion, just remove it.
2013-01-23MIKE KABLER: remove all paint in damaged area to repair the hull or just rough up the paint to repair the finish.
2013-01-23JOE FRANETIC: You must remove all paint, oil, grease and make sure you have a low moister content. If you donĂ¢??t the fix will not be permanent. You want the West System to adhere to the wood hull and not left over paint that may flake off. If you have clean, bare, dry wood the fix with West System will be forever, do good prep work and it will pay off in the long run. Let the resin soak into the wood fibers.
2012-04-15PETER PARADIS asked: i have construsted my boat from scratch.. I have stripped planked my hull with 1.25 inch cedar strips..the hull area is approx.. 300 square feet..I plan to purchase the largest container of 410 micro light filler to fair the hull ..is that enough... there are no big dips in the hull however the space between the strips need to be filled.. is that enough???
thanks
+Expand Answers
2012-04-16STEPHEN LADD: That should be enough. It goes a long ways.
Steve Ladd
2012-04-16DONALD HAGENOW: The low density (easily sandable) filler is a good product for your application. I completed the hull of a Jerricho Bay Lobster skiff which was stripped with 1/2" x 1" cedar strips and had some gaps on the tight turn areas of the hull and used 410 with good results.
Enjoy the build,
Don
In building my 19-foot skiff, I have used a handful of different fairing compounds, and I really didn't think much of this one. The problems with it are that even after it cures it is still kind of soft. I faired a whole 4 foot by 2 foot section of my boat, and didn't trust this stuff, so I sanding it all the way back off. I have found other fiaring compounds that mix much smoother, spread on easier, and cure much more soundly.
Was this a gift?:
No
3/30/2011
5.0
410 Microlight
By Joker757
from West Palm Beach, FL
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
very forgiving. sands easily
3/3/2011
5.0
Microlight 410 has multiple uses
By Jim
from Bethlehem, Ct.
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Indoor
Outdoor
Comments about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
I have been using 410 microlight for many years mostly in my hobby work of restoring old canoes and small boats. I have found many additional uses in my workshop such as filling voids in wood working projects and in general household repairs such as filling woodpecker holes on my barn siding. West System support information is great and easy to understand.
Was this a gift?:
No
12/9/2010
5.0
Excellent Filler
By George
from Phoenix, AZ
About Me Advanced
Pros
Easy to Use
Protects Well
Visually Pleasing
Weather Proof
Cons
Best Uses
Wood Trim
Comments about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
I used Microlight filler to thicken epoxy for repairing window frames, replacing rotted wood with structurally solid epoxy.
After thickening epoxy to peanut butter consistency with 410 Microlight, I applied it with knives used with gypsum wallboard tape joint compound. By working on one surface at a time, then allowing it to set, I could re-create 90-degree convex corners (fillets) with perfect surfaces, easy to sand and then ready to paint. It sands easily, even by hand.
For this purpose, I found 410 Microlight more appropriate than the No. 406 Colloidal Silica fairing filler, because it was easier to mix, easier to sand, and produced better surfaces. If I were repairing a large overhead gap, I would fill most of it with 406 Colloidal Silica, then create the surfaces or any part requiring sanding with 410 Microlight.
I also filled gaps in stucco walls with 410 Microlight, then covered the surface with a stucco patching product. Because it is so easy to shape and to sand, the Microlight seems ideal for filling small gaps, and creating smooth surfaces, for any application that involves repairing voids of relatively small size, and for creating a surface for larger defects that are more appropriately filled with another material such as the 406 Colloidal Silica.
Incidentally, I painted all the remaining surfaces of my window frames - those with south-facing exposures (and not rotted and thus not needing replacement) - with non-thickened epoxy so they would not be later found to have rotted in the Phoenix sun.
Was this a gift?:
No
4/18/2010
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
410 Filler
By I don't have a nickname. Why required?
from Sherman, CT
About Me Casual/ Recreational
Pros
Easy to Use
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
I use this product to obtain the right consistency for inlays into turned wood objects. It does the job well resulting in as product of varying consistencies as needed. It works very well.
8/14/2009
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0
Perfect
By Jack
from Iola, WI
About Me Beginner
Pros
Easy to Use
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about WEST System 410 Microlight Filler:
While I have only used the West Systems epoxy and accesories, and cannot compare it to others, it really does work well and it is easy to use. The microlight fairing filler mixes well, applies reasonably easy (even in hard to reach areas), and sands smooth with low effort.
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