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Interlux Baltoplate Antifouling Bottom Paint
$344.80Limited Stock
Interlux VC Offshore Regatta Baltoplate Racing Finish Antifouling Bottom Paint
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Interlux Baltoplate Antifouling Bottom Paint Customer Questions and Answers

7 of 7 Questions

Question

Is Regatta Baltoplate the same as VC Offshore Baltoplate?

Asked on 03/24/2013 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

I've always used the one in yellow can but believe it is. In different packing. International is a reputable brand I trust they will not make false assertion. I bought a couple of cans but haven't painted it yet on my boat.

Answered on 03/27/2013 by JESUS E AVECILLA
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No it's not

Answered on 03/26/2013 by DOYLE MARCHANT

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Yes I think it is similar if not the same. You can check the interlux web site for more details. Baltoplate, I believe is a vinyl base paint. It applies really well and you can add the recommended thinner on subsequent coats to stretch it out. It's brown out of the can. I leave it that color on my boat. You can wet sand and burnish the finish with bronze wool and it it will turn metallic looking. Very sheen and smooth. It wears very well (Barnegat Bay, NJ). I apply a new coat every other year.

Answered on 03/26/2013 by WILLIAM MCGOVERN

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No they are not the same, Baltoplate is a hard bottom with little antifouling. It is great for a race bottom, but must be scrubbed often.Good for fresh waters like we have here.

Answered on 03/27/2013 by JERRY JUDD

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Yes, they are one and the same

Answered on 03/26/2013 by ROGER GOODING

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Jamestown- The difference between the original formulas was that VC Offshore was combined with Teflon and Baltoplate with Cuprous Oxide for their obvious benefits. The racing finish you get is a function of how well you dive underneath and Scotch Bright the entire bottom before each race. In the heat of the summer nothing on the market prevents the bottom growth In Sterling Harbor unless you can drag-race before each race or don diving gear and scrub. Both these paints hold up very well with this type of scrubbing and the scum growth cleans off rather quickly. As far as one coat in the Spring and expecting a clean bottom all summer, FORGET IT, IT WON’¢??T EVER HAPPEN. Robert Utz 3/26/2013

Answered on 03/26/2013 by ROBERT UTZ

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yes

Answered on 03/26/2013 by LARRY ETHERIDGE

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I don't know.

Answered on 03/26/2013 by TAYLOR GRANT
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Question

I have a 35 ft sail boat and would like to use Baltoplate next year for the first time Do I need 1 or 2 gallons?

Asked on 11/25/2013 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

I used two and was able to coat the keel an extra time or two. I applied two total bottom coats.

Answered on 11/25/2013 by ATTN: LEANA BRIAN MIKITEN
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2 gallons. My 26 ft. boat takes a full gallon

Answered on 11/27/2013 by LARRY ETHERIDGE

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It depends partly on how you apply it and how many coats. You'll need more spraying it on. The last time I did my J105, I used two full gallons spraying. A first application will probably require nearly three gallons. I am assuming you'll also be wet sanding and burnishing since this a racer's paint.

Answered on 11/25/2013 by JOHN KOTEN

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2 gallons

Answered on 11/25/2013 by GLENN MARCK

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The first time you apply this product you will probably need 2 gallons. I have a 32 ft. boat and I put a coat on every other year with one gallon with a little bit of thinner mixed in. The interlux web site should be able to tell which thinner to use. Off the top of my head I can't recall.

Answered on 11/25/2013 by WILLIAM MCGOVERN

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Without knowing your use and location, or which boat, it's hard accurately to estimate. For a first year application, I would recommend an undiluted coat, followed by another that was then lightly sanded (220 grit paper) and burnished if racing. If racing regularly, you want it cleaned in the water every week. If you have given up regular racing (like me) but still like to retain only the minimum amount of paint, eventually you can get away with less quantity. I have an S2 9.1, and thin the paint alot, using about 2/3 of a gallon each year. I do not sand or burnish it at all before launch. I have a diver clean the bottom every few weeks. The product is great, because it's so hard that it turns into fine dust and is absorbed completely with the help of a shop-vac attached when sanded. Thus, it's a clean and relatively painless operation. And the bottom remains smoother than the older tradition non-racing paints.

Answered on 11/25/2013 by TOD MARDER
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Question

Anyone have any experience with Spray on Application of Baltoplate Grey? I'm spraying my Baltoplate on my Olson 29 this week. I've used Baltoplate on many boats, always rolled on. Very pleased with longevity here in freshwater SC. Not too much information on spray application other than it needs to be thinned 10%, Spray Tip 1-8-2.2. One person suggested it would come off more easily if sprayed. Can't understand that thought. I am certainly expecting the extra layer of smoothness you get with a spray finish, can't see any need to burnish after, there should essentially not be not be any imperfections one would have to smooth out with copper wool or 400 grit, all of which remove some amount of material you just paid $300 a gallon for. It seems to me since you shouldn't have to remove any material afterward through the burnishing process, the final coverage should be equivalent? Any help here??? Cary Olson 29 RED PYRATE

Asked on 06/06/2016 by Cary Palmer

Top Answer

Yes I have always sprayed on many of my racing yachts. The finish is far better than with a roller and no other issues Regards Peter

Answered on 06/06/2016 by PETER AHERN
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First coat sprayed, quite a bit smoother than the roller. I did have to add extra thinner, and it is spraying on fairly dry. Going to run some bronze wool over it to check adhesion before I decide to keep spraying or finish it with a roller. Spraying is certainly a lot more hassle. Wouldn't mind the effort if I felt coverage was going to be superior, but haven't decided yet

Answered on 06/13/2016 by Cary Palmer

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Spraying this item when highly diluted properly with lacquer thinner will leave most of the pigment in the air. It will dry before it hits the hull. Your finish will not be uniform. A 1 X 5 inch fuzzy roller works best on a 3 foot handle. Add thinner as you go to maintain viscosity. Waste is minimized. I've seen it burnished with scotch bright and 1500 paper to a mirror finish. Just use a terrycloth towel underwater to remove the slime weekly and you're off to winning races. Takes love!

Answered on 06/12/2016 by ROBERT UTZ

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Sorry late reply. Although our baltoplate was sprayed can't really advise you as it was done by a messy skin who didn't speak English and could not read the paint can directions. He didn't, couldn't follow the directions on the can, from the Interlux technician and me. Obviously I'm annoyed at the boat yard as well. I no longer do projects with our local yard or workers who can only say "eats no problemo."

Answered on 06/07/2016 by THOMAS CAHALANE

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Never sprayed it, but rolled like you for many years. I found that thinning the paint made it smoother but it still requires burnishing for a racing finish. My best guess is that spraying will require the same. Although the paint can go on more evenly, it still will not dry to a slick finish. Good luck.

Answered on 06/06/2016 by TOD MARDER
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Question

I just bought a Wavelength 24 with dc-17 black bottom paint, so I was told by previous owner. I see the new stuff is gray metallic. She needs some minor spots repaired and a fresh coat of bottom paint. Are the two compatible?

Asked on 07/16/2014 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

Yes, 17, I believe is used in fresh water, popular on the Great Lakes. My 1984 Abbott 33 came with that to Greenport NY, about 8 years ago and I have been using first VC Offshore and in later years Baltoplate. They are all compatible. They all require at least Scotchbrite wiping before each race to remove any slime film. Thin with enamel reducer by 15% to prevent build-up,it is non-reactive anyway. It can be burnished to a mirror like finish if you have the time and energy and no one will touch you. I have never had to remove and strip and the bottom remains perfect. It has copper added for anti- fouling, so don't use near any unprotected aluminum or you will have the makings of a very destructive battery.

Answered on 07/16/2014 by ROBERT UTZ
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thanks for question. However, our project was baltoplate on top of previous baltoplate So, we just pepared the surface and sprayed on the new. BTW, the previous bottom painting had been on for 10 years. Even after that time in saltwater so. Calif. the appearance was still quite good. We had done monthly bottom cleaning in the slip until about 3 years ago then cut back and began to neglect it. In any case, our experience is that it is a durable bottom paint, worth taking care of.

Answered on 07/19/2014 by THOMAS CAHALANE

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If the current paint is VC 17 (rather than DC-17), the 2 paints are compatible since both are Teflon based. But why not just use VC 17 again since it is available in quart sizes and you don't need a full gallon

Answered on 07/16/2014 by JON KNIGHT

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I cannot tell you if boat paints are compatible. The Balto-plate is a vinyl based paint. It goes on well - either spraying, for which it has to be a bit diluted; or rolled on. My preference is to roll it on because the roller delivers a thicker level of paint and I like to "barnish" the paint up during the season with 400 - 600 wet sandpaper. if the bottom was spray painted, it wears off too quickly. I have been pleased with the Balto-plate as it is easy to apply, slick, fast and has good anti-fouling properties. You can always contact the manufacturer - Interlux/Regatta,and they can probably tell you what will work best in your situation. When I purchased my C&C 27 a few years ago, I took her down to the bear fiber glass and rebuilt the botton with 4 barrier coats (alternating between while and grey), and a final coat with Balto-plate. A lot of work, but I was very pleased with the results. Charlie Rouse

Answered on 07/16/2014 by CHARLES ROUSE
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Question

Can I apply this over vc performance epoxy?

Asked on 02/06/2013 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

Check with the manufacturer. Certain epoxies have to have a primer applied first. Interlux is very responsive if you call the help line.

Answered on 02/07/2013 by ATTN: LEANA BRIAN MIKITEN
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I wouldn't. Call Interlux Teck support. They have always been helpful when I called them.

Answered on 02/07/2013 by LARRY ETHERIDGE

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Unfortunately you cannot apply anything over VC Performance. I you would like to use th Regatta you will have to strip off all of the VC Performance. Thank you.

Answered on 02/07/2013 by Kerry Souza

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Your shopper should contact Interlux. They are very helpful and have always answered all my questions.

Answered on 02/07/2013 by ROGER GOODING
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Question

Can you prime a cast iron keel with Por-15 then Baltoplate over it ? Thank you.

Asked on 09/19/2011 by Lawrence Swack

Top Answer

I am not familiar with what Por-15 is but years ago I coated my bare lead keel with West epoxy which I faired and painted over with Baltoplate with no problem. Baltoplate is very high solvent paint and will cause some paints to lift that are left on the hull prior to painting with it. I would imagine the Por-15 product is a resin product of some sort (epoxy, vinylester, polyester) which most metal primers are. The best thing would be to check with the manufacturer for info or do a test before committing to the whole thing.

Answered on 09/30/2011 by MIKE BONICKER
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Answer

Lawrence: We'll try this again. I do not know the answer to your question because I have not used Por-15 and I have a lead keel. I have contacted Interlux before about compatibility issues, and an Interlux rep answered my question as I recall. I like baltoplate (freshwater boat) because it is a hard paint, I can apply it with a roller with acceptable results, it can be burnished if I want to get serious about racing, and, in my experience, it helps prevent water intrusion (and consequently blistering). It is mediocre as an antifoulant. If you intend to race, you should jump in and clean the bottom. Good luck.

Answered on 09/30/2011 by MATTHEW WOLFORD

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Lawrence:

Answered on 09/30/2011 by MATTHEW WOLFORD

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I think that will work fine as long as the primer totally covers and adheres to the iron otherwise it might result in electrolysis between the copper in the baltoplate and it iron. It should be fine if you do it right. Baltoplate is a great bottom finish.

Answered on 10/01/2011 by STEPHEN SCHWARTZ
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Question

Can I purchase less than a gallon of Baltoplate bottom paint?

Asked on 04/14/2015 by Bill Haddon

Top Answer

I am not sure why you would want to do that. You can roll Baltoplate on with the cheapest low nap rollers that leave the paint pretty smooth. One coat is fine but the antifouling will not last long in warm waters. I had my boat in Mexico for several years and thinner coats of Baltoplate let the barnacles have a field day. I recently redid the bottom of my boat myself and put three coats of BP on it and then sanded it down to about 300 grit. The boat has been sitting in Charleston harbor for a month. Charleston is shallow and warm. I checked the BP yesterday and except for a little slime along the water line, the hull was fine. I have used BP for years and really like it. If you use your boat, it is great. The paint is self burnishing but for that to work, the boat needs to move and preferably with a little pace on.

Answered on 04/17/2015 by ROBERT MUSOR
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I don't think so, but I didn't check since I needed a gallon. On websites, I always saw it advertised by the gallon.

Answered on 04/14/2015 by DOUGLAS HANCHER

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less than a gallon. Don't know answer without researching. In our case, we made sure to have enough, 2 gallons it all got used.

Answered on 04/14/2015 by THOMAS CAHALANE
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