October 27, 2020

Verified Purchase

Have used several times to repair wet wood rot and always works just like it says. Expensive but worth it in critical situations

June 18, 2019

Verified Purchase

I have a log home in Colorado built in 1942 and had a few logs just aboveboard the foundation that have some rot. Thought I would try this product before spending a ton of money having them replaced. I drilled about 50 holes into the logs that sounded a little hollow and injected the epoxy-it worked! When I tap on the logs now, they sound like solid wood. Very happy with the outcome! John

April 15, 2019

Verified Purchase

I used this on my 2001 340 Sea Ray rotted swim deck. The previous owner used it as a bumper so it had a large structural crack in one of the supports and also some smaller stress cracks. It seemed to work well to solidify the rotted sections but I also followed up the repair with regular epoxy to fill in all the cracks. The swim deck is definitely structurally sound now with the help of this product.

April 10, 2018

I used this product to fill-in voids in transom which has moisture in the wooden laminate between the fiberglass inner and outer skin.

September 9, 2015

Verified Purchase

I used Aquapoxy differently from the directions--I scraped out the caulking from my teak deck and poured the stuff into the seams. A whole quart disappeared this way. The end result was what I had hoped for--markedly less deflection in my aft-cabin top deck. I'm going to buy more to have on hand.

July 3, 2014

I've gone through several kits over the past few years for my 30' SISU balsa cored downeaster. The wheelhouse leaked from the overhead due to improperly installed hardware above and improperly secured bridge over wheelhouse. Over time I've probably injected at least a half gallon of this product and finally the wheelhouse is dry & has a new dry headliner. Many other areas both vertical & horizontal surfaces have been successfully treated. Under pressure with a syringe it helps displace most of the water. I also first try to suck out as much moisture with a shop vac and let it run for while. It's workable for some time and sets over several days. On overhead and vertical areas I've left the syringe in place so as not to relieve pressure or lose product, afterwards the syringe is easily removed. Larger syringes are found at medical supply stores. Great product.

March 24, 2014

Verified Purchase

After replacing an anchor windlass a few years back, I had developed a leak in the forward V-birth area and was able to trace it back to some damaged core material just aft of the windlass where the bedding around the all windlass had been compromised. It was a small area and not really something that needed to be replaced or easily accessible. There was only a small amount of damaged wood(core material) and the product solidified that damaged wood and sealed the leak. I drilled 1/8" holes through the fiberglass deck, injected the epoxy as explained in the directions to push out any moisture, and when everything dried, used a gelcoat repair kit to repair the injection holes. When dry, I compounded and waxed the area. The deck area is solid, there is no more water leaking in the cabin, and the gelcoat repair came out perfect.

November 24, 2012

I'v used BoatLife wet Epoxy on my 30' SISU to seal leaks in the wheel house overhead by drilling holes at the underside and injecting BoatLife in suspect areas, at times leaving the syringe in place overnight so as not to lose pressure on the affected area or let product run out. Also used around the Tuna Door area and other vertical and horizontal sufaces with good results without having to cut the inside skin.

July 23, 2012

I had some serious rot issues in my camper along the wall with the 2 slideouts. The big kitchen slideout seal was leaking from the floor during rain when traveling. A good portion of the floor plywood and most of the 2x4 floor joists 16 inches inward for about 20 ft backward had to be replaced. I cut out all the rotted wood but left the damp (wet rot) what appeared to be good wood in place to tie the new floor joist into. From the top of the 2x4 floor joists I drilled 1/4 inch holes, about 3/4ths of the way down and 3 inches apart for about 5 feet. I kept filling the holes until the epoxy wouldn't go down ( a few hrs). I was sceptical about the product until I had to remove a section of the treated board the following day. It was SOLID. I also drilled holes at a 45 degree angle into the 3 2x4s that support the floor under the slideouts. It stiffened them up. I can say this product does work and works well.