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Sudbury

Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

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Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

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Product Details

Fast curing Sudbury elastomeric marine sealant has superior strength, adhesion, elongation and life characteristics. Adheres tenaciously to fiberglass, wood, metal, glass and plexiglass. Elastomeric sealant is perfect for heavy duty service above and below the waterline. Simple to clean up with mineral spirits. Not recommended for wood deck seams. One part

Tech Specs
Item #Sealant ColorSize
SUD-300White10 oz. cart.
SUD-301Clear10 oz. cart.
SUD-302Black10 oz. cart.
SUD-320White3 oz. tube
SUD-321Clear3 oz. tube
Info & Guides

Technical Information

  • Elastomeric sealant can be wet sanded and painted after curing.
  • Heavy duty use above or below the waterline.
  • Twists, bends, expands, compresses.
  • Use elastomeric sealant adhesive to seal ports, beds hardware, and stops leaks.
  • Adheres tenaciously without primers to fiberglass, glass, all plastic.
  • Cures in temperatures from -20 degrees to +120 degrees fahrenheit.

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Questions

1 - 6 of 6 Questions

Q: null Hi. Can I use this for sealing cedar hull planks under the waterline? If so can I prime over it with oil base primer which is what I am using for primer. Not epoxy base. Just oil based primer. Thank you

4 years ago
4 Answers

A: According to the manufacturer, it can be used on wood, and it also states it can be painted. I've used it on my aluminum boat to seal the keel and I'm happy with how usable it is. I've used lots of all varieties in my profession which is car restoration and some sealants are really messy but I found this one to be really easy to use. The following is from the manufacturer: According to the manufacurer, adheres - without primers - to fiberglass, glass, metal, wood, and plastics - including Starboard®. Seals, beds, and stops leaks — use it for thru-hull fittings, deck hardware, windshields, ports, hatches, rails, and chainplates. Note that this product is a sealant - not an adhesive, nor an adhesive sealant - and therefore falls on the lower end of the ""adhesive strength"" scale. • For use above or below the waterline • Can be wet sanded and painted after curing • Flexibility and compression capabilities are excellent • Twists, bends, expands, compresses • Generally good resistance to teak cleaners and teak oils (test first) • Synthetic rubber formulation, cures by solvent evaporation; easier to remove than polyurethane • Simple clean up of uncured sealant with mineral spirits • Full cure typically takes 1 - 7 days, depending on environmental conditions • Cures in temperatures of -20°F (-28.9°C) to 120°F (-48.9°C) • Not recommended for wooden deck seams or use in areas subject to gasoline

4 years ago
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Q: null do I use mineral sprites also to clean the surface between gelcoat and stainless rub rail before I apply Sudbury 301

6 years ago
1 Answer

A: Yes, Simple to clean up with mineral spirits.

6 years ago
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Q: null will this sealant stick to itself after it has tacked over or cured if I add more over it ? the reason I am asking is I want to seal the rub rail around my boat and I am concerned that I will not have enough time to finish before this goes off .

6 years ago
1 Answer

A: Yes, it will bond to cured product.

6 years ago
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Q: null If used on a boat hull, a varnished wooden cedar strip canoe to close small seam leaks, will it be removable or will it harden and grip so dearly that it becomes permanent? How clear is clear? Is it noticeable?

7 years ago
2 Answers

A: Yes, it will come off clean from a strong surface (well sealed plywood). May pull more wood from veneer than desirable if not sealed surface. The clear is almost transparent, uv exposure will make clear more of an amber after a year or two. Thank You.

Anonymous6 years ago
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Q: null Will this product adhere well to granite surfaces?

11 years ago
4 Answers

A: YES! No roughing necessary. Comes off clean when you need it to.

Anonymous6 years ago
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Q: null Is Sudbury preferred for sealing a thru-hull transducer?

7 years ago
4 Answers

A: Yo steve hodges is an expert. You can trust what he says. We have been also been using Sudbury Sealant for several decades, it was previously known as Rule Elastomeric Sealant. It is our First choice in most cases. It is far superior to any silicone. It is perfect for above or below the wl. It is not permanent, but for delicate things like plastic portlight finishing rings it can be difficult to pull off in one piece after they cook in the sun. For those or instrument display bezels use penetrating formula, which is the world's best contact cement too btw. I have repaired many inflatables with it when we couldn't get bostik. Sudbury is a Great gap filler. Avoid using it on soft vinyls, bc of the solvent it contains. Like coated lifelines or electrical wire sheath. We have not had the greatest luck with aluminum bedding apps because AA is such a good heat sink that it retards curing of this and some other single-part caulks. On aluminum, if it is partially exposed it will cure. If it's bedding something to aluminum, and is not exposed to the elements, think twice. It is vg for kingstarboard even tho it is not specified by taco. When i glue up layers of ""ksb"" to make a thicker block than the boards by themselves, i pepper the assemblies w bronze ring nails along with the ""Suds"". Then when sanding the block get rid of the nail heads. For bases, fairing blocks or wedges it works like a champ! Personally, on thru hulls, we do all our tightening on the first round, i don't return the next day to tighten again bc i believe that breaks the seal. The clear formula cures translucent not crystal clear. For kitchen or bath, it will never fail, and doesn't mildew, but constant cleaning w bleach based cleaners will give the white a pinkish tint. The white and clear have excellent uv resistance, but black will Always be the most uv resistant. That's why wood deck seams are never white. Thank you.

Anonymous6 years ago
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