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Awlgrip Awlwood MA is a complete exterior clear system that allows the natural color and grain of wood to shine through. It is comprised of a primer (clear, red or yellow) and a clear gloss finish.
When Awlwood primer and finish are combined, the synergistic effect yields outstanding results. Flex-Link technology locks the primer on to the wood structure, including tropical hardwoods, for superior flexibility and damage resistance.
The system breeds extended life for the wood while retaining the same gloss, DOI and natural appearance as when you first applied it.
For maximum performance in high temperature and high humidity environments, use Awlwood Multi-Climate Gloss (J4000Q).
Available in Gloss or Matte finish. It's recommended that you build up with Gloss, then if a satin finish is desired, apply one coat of Matte Finish.
|Part #||Description||Size||VOC (Mixed & Unreduced)||Reducers|
|AWL-J3809Q||Clear Primer||Quart||500 g/L (4.17 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J7809Q||Red Primer||Quart||500 g/L (4.17 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J9809Q||Yellow Primer||Quart||500 g/L (4.17 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J3890Q||Gloss Finish||Quart||490 g/L (4.01 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J3890G||Gloss Finish||Gallon||490 g/L (4.01 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J3810Q||Satin Finish||Quart||742 g/L (6.19 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J3810G||Satin Finish||Gallon||742 g/L (6.19 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
|AWL-J4000Q||Multi-Climate Gloss Finish||Quart||490 g/L (4.09 lb/gal)||Brush: T0201 Spray: T0202|
Awlgrip claims their Flex-Link molecular technology has created the most durable marine wood finish available. It can be applied by brush, roller, or spray and over (properly prepped and sanded) existing urethane finishes. The clear high-build finish component allows multiple coats per day in a wider range of temperatures. Fully cured Awlwood finishes are highly scratch resistant, and may be wet sanded and polished to a high gloss.
Awlwood MA Exterior Clears System Features & Benefits
June 17, 2021
Everyone is out of stock of the gloss, onlly primer is available. Was hoping to put on a spring coat, hopefully more stock will come in, so now a fall recoat I guess.......
March 28, 2021
This was used on a 17 year old Sabre. Stern, toe rails, decorative strips and helm deck. It made an unbelievable transformation in the appearance and texture of the wood.
November 26, 2020
Sprayed 10 coats of awlwood on my 1954 wood boat. Turned out pretty good
September 26, 2020
After decades of carefully thinning for penetration, careful between-coat sandings, insistence on using only natural bristle brushes, waiting for perfect weather conditions and all the other esoterica that accompanies varnishing with my favorite Dutch varnish products, I was skeptical that this other Dutch coating could do better. I was wrong. I am completely converted to Allwood MA for all of my exterior varnish requirements. Once the wood is stripped and sanded- the correct starting place for any varnish project- then the magic begins. The primer penetrates deeply into the wood and is catalyzed by humidity- water vapor- into a strong, flexible substrate instead of a thin, brittle layer per normal thinned varnish. Teak will generally need only 1-2 coats for full penetration; mahogany at least two. Make sure you mask well, as the stuff runs and spreads like alcohol or water. It takes a good 24 hours for the primer to fully cure. You may see small bubbles on the surface after the cure. This is completely normal, as it is the residue of the primer catalyzing and "boiling off" in the process, particularly where there is checking or a large-ish joint. Your wood will now look like it's already finished. It's not. Do a light 220 sanding to smooth off all the tiny bumps. This will also give you a good hint where you are with your topcoat, as with normal varnishing. The topcoat goes on like syrup. Don't worry it in like we do with varnish; use a couple three passes with the brush, and always feather into the wet edge, like normal. Don't go back. Keep up the pace until you've covered the area with its full first top coat. Wait 45 minutes to an hour, and do it again. And again, and again. You honestly don't need to sand between coats, but I do a light touch anyway so I can see where I'm going. The literature says you can do up to six coats a day, which I believe, but I usually quit after three, because I'm getting tired of it, and I know I can easily do three more tomorrow
June 4, 2020
I redid my whole 44 ft boat with this and it went great
December 2, 2019
Covering teak on sailboat
May 6, 2019
I have an old Friendship Sloop with spruce spars, teak cockpit, teak rails, and lots of teak trim. I used this as a test 5 years ago on the lazarette hatches which are horizontal, exposed to the sun, and get stepped on regularly -- net, they look brand new. I have now done all spars, cockpit, and most of trim, as well as wood interior with this product, gradually replacing all varnish If you have spruce, use clear primer, as colored primers will blotch. After three gloss coats, sand with 220 to smooth, then add 10% of yellow primer to gloss for three coats, sand, and apply two more coats, then sand with 320 or 400, and apply last coat of gloss thinned 10% with brush reducer. Use gloss first as you do not want to sand into colored coats much. Sanding is only to smooth surface, coats chemically bond. Apply fairly quickly, rotate spars every few minutes for half an hour to avoid sags. Don't try to clean brushes, throw away. Best timing I found is primer in pm, then gloss next am after 18 hours, then gloss pm, then gloss next am, wait 24 hours, sand, start with gloss coats again (goes on smoother over prior coat that has had time to cure a bit more than min time to recoat). Read instructions well.
February 19, 2016
Looks great! I used this on all my cabin sole.
January 1, 2016
Seem to be a good product. Time will tell as to how it holds up.
August 10, 2015
Don'ts: Use alcohol in prepping -poisons the material Use oxalic acid to bleach the wood -poisons the material Apply under very low humid conditions-will impede dry times i.e. never dry Use good quality brushes -brushes can not be cleaned and will be 'throw-away' Use any containers that are solvent sensitive -if in doubt use tall glass or tall metal containers. wide flat containers will shorten pot life. Don't "worry" material by continual brush strokes, apply and tip off Do's: Apply only on stripped bare teak, mahogany etc. Rag on primer, one cannot get even application w a brush of any type. I used a sock on three fingers over a nitrile glove Tape tightly to teak for prime coat and retape with small border beyond teak for gloss coats, otherwise primer color is visible on gelcoat Yellow primer typical for Teak, red for Mahogany. Primer really adds contrast and wood grain contrast. Read product datasheets carefully and follow Great: Depth of Image (DOI) is amazing Was able to do six complete coats in two days on hot humid days on the Chesapeake. Sanding after prime and coat three. Clear gloss is clear! with no hue or tint thus tinted primer gives hue Used foam brushes "not for use for w shellac and lacquer" they swelled after 20 min. and I just tossed it and used another. Ideally one should use solvent resistant foam brushes. If this product becomes known, the pro varnish 'gurus' commanding big money should be very worried. See photo of morning dew on Awlwood after day 1 (three coats) Very tolerant of changing environmental conditions. Post cure the material is very stretchy so believe that with primer it will really stick to scarf joints and not fail from wood side due to expansion.
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