If you have the time you can paint your boat yourself
by Gary Caputi, Motorboating
Article from Interlux website
Step 1: Pre-Prep:
With the boat on blocks I removed the rubrail and everything attached
to the hull below it and above the waterline. Thru hulls in the bottom
were left in place because they get painted. The local Soda-Blast
Systems guys (www.sodablast systems.com) removed the old bottom paint
(see the August issue of "Motor Boating"). Then I wet-sanded the hull
sides and transom using an orbital sander with 120-grit disks to remove
the gloss. I wiped them down with 202
and examined the surface for dings, pits and cracks,
which I circled with a pencil.
Step 2: Repairs and First Prime
The damaged areas were filled using Evercoat Formula 27. After hardening, each area was sanded and second and third applications were made as n eeded.
Pinholes and blisters below the waterline were similarly repaired. A wipe down with 2333N solvent preceded the first coat of Epoxy Primekote, applied using a solvent resistant 8" roller and brushed in tight spots. After drying, the primer was sanded with the orbital using 120-grit, taking it down to the gel coat in places, which revealed more subtle flaws.
Step 3: Small Repairs and Second Prime
Using Evercoat PolyFlex glazing putty, available at auto body supply stores, I filled fine imperfections quickly, some taking two applications. Each repair was
sanded by hand with 220. A quick wipe down and another application of Primekote followed. This coat was carefully sanded to a thin layer using the orbital and 220-grit. The primer creates a smooth, imperfection-free
surface. (Top-coat paint will highlight, not hide imperfections.) With
the aid of friends, an honest 40 man-hours of prep went into the hull
before mixing the first quart of color.
Step 4: Color Time
Applying self-leveling, two-part Interlux
polyurethane marine paint with a roller and brush is a two-man operation with one rolling a thin layer of paint
onto the hull and the other "tipping" it with a fine, China bristle brush. Tip first in an X pattern, then up and down, and finally horizon-tally. We
worked in small sections starting at the bow and down one side,then the
other side, and finally the transom. We applied as little paint
as possible to prevent sagging. Start at the bottom and work up with a
loaded roller so less is applied at the top of the stroke where gravity
can create sags. Additional coats are applied without sanding within 24
to 36 hours. We applied a total of three, and the final coat was
touch-dry in eight hours and cured to a hard finish in seven days.
Step 5: Bottoms Up
The paint looked fantastic, even without buffing, but the bottom was still naked. I carefully taped off the water line and sanded the gloss off the new yellow paint
where we carried it below the water line. Over two days I applied three coats of Interprotect
2000 barriercoat (see September issue of "MotorBoating") and
I sanded and primed the trim tabs. When the barrier coat was dry and
the bottom and the tabs had two coats of bottom paint (Micron
CSC), they were reinstalled with black Quick Drying 5200
sealant, along with all hardware. A new Taco Metals Flexible Vinyl
Rubrail was installed according to Taco's website instructions, and I
added a black bootstripe to complete the new look and make my
17-year-old Mako shine like new again.
Original Link from Interlux website