Z Spar 1015 Captains Varnish is a high-solids marine varnish that is a copolymerization of several different resins and drying oils - it has found remarkable acceptance by users throughout the world. Captain's Varnish is recommended for the highest quality work. It has outstanding gloss retention and all-around durability. It is considered by its many users to be the most durable varnish ever offered to the boating trade. Contains Ultra Violet absorbers and filters.
Number of Coats: Bare Wood- 4 minimum,
Existing Varnish- 2 minimum
Dry Film Thickness per coat: 1.5 mils (3.1 wet mils)
Application Temp: 40Deg F. Min., 90Deg F. Max.
Do not shake varnish. Stir gently before application, being careful not to
introduce air bubbles into the varnish. Z*Spar 1015 Captain's Varnish may
be applied by brush, conventional or airless spray. Thinning is not normally
required although on warm days use Pettit 120/T10 Brushing Thinner at 5-
10% by volume to ease brushing and maintain good flow and levelling. In
very warm weather (80Deg F and above) use Pettit 110/T11 Brush Flo Thinner
at 5-10% by volume to maintain good flow and levelling. When spraying,
use Pettit 121/T8 Spraying Thinner up to 20% by volume. Spray one even,
wet coat to minimize orange peel. Do not apply in heavy films or build coats
too quickly as solvent entrapment, blistering or wrinkling may occur. Do not
apply Captain's Varnish on extremely humid days or when rain is threatening.
Do not apply in the late afternoon when working outdoors as the wet
film may be adversely affected by dew. DO NOT apply this varnish to a
wood hull which has been dried more than one week under conditions such
as artificial heat. Do not use Captain's Varnish below the waterline on boats
that remain in the water. The moisture content of the wood should be a
minimum of 15% when varnished. This will eliminate expansion cracking,
micro-checking and gloss loss when the varnish is in service.
Wood must be clean, dry and properly prepared prior to varnishing. When
sanding wood, always sand with the grain. Use a vacuum, air hose, or tack
rag to remove all traces of sanding residue. Follow all surface preparation
steps carefully, avoiding shortcuts. Inadequate surface preparation will
virtually assure inadequate varnish performance.
Dry Time Hours
Ultra Violet absorbers and filters for long-term gloss retention.
Recommended for the highest quality work
Outstanding gloss retention and all around durability.
This is the prefered varnish when painting in a variable environment.
Does Captains varnish 1015 require a polyurethane overcoat for protection?
I don't think such is essential. I've used it on a 9' river pram satisfactorily without an overcoat. Barry
Not at all it's better than poly
No, because it has uv inhibitors in the varnish
No. I recommend an annual fresh coat or two. No polyurethane
Are you referring to UV protection? You should not need to put a polyurethane topcoat on it, this product is quite resilient.
JD Tech Associate
You should not have to apply any other protection over this for normal wear and tear or UV. Seasonal maintenance coats will help also.
JD Tech Associate
What is the best solvent to clean brushes and just general clean up?
I simply use a small amount (an inch or two) of mineral spirits/paint thinner, spin the brush in a 5 gallon bucket, and repeat. It only takes about three cycles, before the brush is clean. I then wrap the brush in craft paper (or a brown paper bag), to reshape the bristles from spinning. It also helps to keep the brush clean. I pour the used mineral spirits into a spare can. The solids drop out in a few days, allowing me to reuse this for the first and maybe even second cycles. Using a brush spinner is the key.
Pettit bought Z Spar, so their recommend thinner/cleaner is"120/T-10".I also use plain old paint thinner/mineral spirits from the hardware store,quite successfully.I love the ZSpar. ###-Please type your reply above this line -###Can you answer Stan's question about thisproduct?ZSpar Captain's Varnish"What is the bestsolvent to clean brushes and just general clean up?"SimplyReply to this emailThankyou in advance if you are able to answer the question. Your email addresswill not be shared with this customer or other shoppers. We may post youranswer to our site to benefit other shoppers. By replying to this emailyou agree to the privacyUnsubscribefrom answering questions about all products
I have always had good results with regular mineral spirits. I recentlytried a more environmentally friendly substitute, but was sadly disappointedwith the results. Peter ###-Please type your reply above this line -###Can you answer Stan's question about thisproduct?ZSpar Captain's Varnish"What is the bestsolvent to clean brushes and just general clean up?"SimplyReply to this emailThankyou in advance if you are able to answer the question. Your email addresswill not be shared with this customer or other shoppers. We may post youranswer to our site to benefit other shoppers. By replying to this emailyou agree to the privacyUnsubscribefrom answering questions about all products
Clean brushes with mineral spirits followed by soapy water, rinse well withclear water, dry and wrap with a piece of paper towel to hold bristlesshape. ###-Please type your reply above this line -###Can you answer Stan's question about thisproduct?ZSpar Captain's Varnish"What is the bestsolvent to clean brushes and just general clean up?"SimplyReply to this emailThankyou in advance if you are able to answer the question. Your email addresswill not be shared with this customer or other shoppers. We may post youranswer to our site to benefit other shoppers. By replying to this emailyou agree to the privacyUnsubscribefrom answering questions about all products
Regular mineral spirits / generic paint thinner will work just fine. No need for fancy solvents.
paint thinners or turpentineMarkGinsberg, FAIA, LEEDAPCurtis+ Ginsberg Architects LLP299Broadway, Suite 1107 NewYork, NY 10007-1091
Many people use the brushing thinner Pettit 120/T10 for cleanup and cleaning the brushes, and storing them in mineral spirits or kerosene between applications. There are a lot of different things people do for keeping brushes between applications.
JD Tech Associate
Can this product be applied to wood that previously had a water based polyurethane applied to it? I have some outdoor chairs which were finished with polyurethane which didn't hold up. I have sanded them down to bare wood and was wondering if this would work
If the wood is properly prepared, it should. Would start with a "sealer" coat (actual Z Spar sealer or varnish itself diluted about 10% with thinner). It's a lot of work to do a chair properly. I always sand lightly between coats to see where I've varnished. Consider investing in a chair cover when you are done to protect your work.Good luck.
Good product. Should work fine if you've got most of the polyurethane off. Fairly thick, a little goes a long way, definitely recommend using the brushing thinner which goes with it (brushing thinner 120 I believe). I had good luck thinning it a bit and using foam brushes on a stripped antique canoe.
It's never a good idea to apply true spar varnish atop polyurethane, but as you have sanded back to fresh wood, give it a wipe with penetrol and have at it.
sanding between coats needed?
Yes. Follow directions on can.
Yes but only if you are trying to level it on the first few coats. I like a sharpe scraper even better. Does not gum up like sand paper and only removes the high spots.
A very light sanding is all you need. Too flatten any high spots and help with adhesion of next coat
Sanding is recommended but who cares about recommendations? I have applied reapplied this product at about 24 hrs before a complete cure without sanding with no repercussions.
My Opinion: I put 20 coats of Captan's varnish on a Chris Craft I restored. I put 4 or 5 coats on without sanding between coats as long as not more than a day elapsed between coats. After the first five, I was able to use 150 grit sandpaper to level the finish. The next sanding after about another 5 coats, I used 220. The sanding before the final coat, I used wet sanding 320.
Yes, if you want a very smooth finish, you need to block sand with 320 sand paper between coat to remove high spots and provide a good surface for the next coat to adhere. Captains varnish provides as shiny and as durable finish as any other varnish I have used, and I have used many. It also levels out better than any other I have used on my antique boats. It is the only varnish I use to refinish my Chris Crafts now.
whats the difference between 1015 and 2015 captains varnish?
I don't know.
You are really asking what is the difference between Captain's Varnish and Flagship Varnish, both made by Z-Spar. I do not really know, but--and this goes back 15 years ago when I was building my first boat--I remember reading that Flagship is more difficult to apply which is why I have always used Captains Varnish. More recently -- the past year or so -- I have read that Flagship has more protection against UV. I do not know what the numbers refer to "Captains Varnish 1015" and "Flagship Varnish 2015".
Can it be used on teak on a sailboat specifically handrails?
Yes varnish can be used on teak. You can put it on directly or you can put it over a sealer coat. Some prefer to use CPES (Smith's Clear Pentrating Epoxy Sealer) under varnish. My preference is to use two coats of a slow marine epoxy, then sand smooth. For all varnish work that I have done I have always used three coats of Z Spar Captain's Varnish over two coats of epoxy. I used it on a cedar strip canoe build in 2007 and the finish is still like new. I have read that three coats of Captain's Varnish over two coats of epoxy will protect from 20 years of sun (I believe in a book by Gil Gilpatrick). I have no experience with using varnish on bare wood but have seen varnish curling and peeling from the teak rails of my friend's hand built Chesapeake Bay Bugeye, and I am pretty convinced that this would not occur so dramatically with an epoxy undercoat. I am now using Captain's Varnish to complete a John Welsford Navigator.
YES! I used it on a teak tub deck that is in a tub shower combinations. It gets lots of water. I suggest multiple thin coats, (I think I have 5+) and allowing enough drying time, it will produce a beautiful durable finish. This product was suggested for me in this application by a very reputable craftsman, and I'm very pleased.
Absolutely, however as in all coating processes the key to success is in the prep work. I live in the south and I give a refresher coat once a year and my teak gets compliments all the time.
How many sq ft does 1 gallon cover?
500 sq. ft.
That's like asking 'how tall is a rope?"I always trusted The "Old Man" at my yard. His rule of thumb was that when properly applied, a pint would cover 25-30 sq.ft.
Is Pettit Captain's varnish compatible with 2 part west system epoxy?
Terri H:Captain's Z Spar varnish is indeed compatible with any high grade epoxy including West System. Just be sure to sand the epoxy coating until it loses its gloss--turns uniformly gray--before you apply the varnish. Three coats of Zspar minimum to protect the epoxy from UV rays.Have fun.
Yes. I use Captain's Varnish on mahogany and oak after gluing these woods with this epoxy. It also works over extensive repairs using fillers in the epoxy. Sand smoothly in accordance with directions.
Yes I use this combination all the time
I have overcoated West System with Captain's varnish with very nice results. I used the slow hardener (no blush) for the West, sanded it and then Varnished,
How can I tint this varnish to give it a more "mahogany" look?
I have never done it, but you might get an answer from some reputable paint store like Sevens
Use Pettit Paste Wood Filler Stains on the wood prior to applying the varnish.
I use the same fillers FIRST as does Rick W. That way you can make the color more even by wiping on or off as much as necessary.
can this be applied over polyurethane paint?
Why would you want to put varnish over polyurethane paint? If the paint is no longer shiny, put another coat of polyurethane paint over it. I can think of no advantage of Captain's avarnish over tdhis paint.
I wouldn't. This should be applied over an oil based sealer or epoxy or to bate wood.
High quality finish
I like the finished result on my solo canoe.
amateur boat maker
Have always used Captains Varnish never been let down.
Perfect every time
What can I say, in 20+ years I've never had a problem with this varnish. Old reliable. As long as you do the correct prep work , this comes out nice every time.
David Satter, Satter's Restoration
Recommended by Classic Mega Yacht Mate
I have used all varnish's but this over the years. With my latest boat the brightwork needed some love. The mate on a classic Palmer Johnson did some work for me but I still had the teak door to rebuild. Fast forward, his work was flawless so I decided to mimic on the door. It was perfect only 3 coats deep and people are raving at the work. Foam brush and nothing special on my end.
East Hampton, NY
Beautiful results from a first timer
This was my first attempt at using varnish and the results are better than expected, i rolled the varnish on with 4" high density foam hot dog rollers and tipped with a foam brush. This photo shows the results of three coats of varnish on top of two epoxy coats, sanding with 220 between the first two coats and 400 before the final, this was done in my garage, cobwebs and all, NOT a dust free environment by any means.
drys fast and holds up well
We use this product on wood doors
i grew up with my Dad always using Z-Spar Captains varnish to protect exterior wood from the harsh California sun. Now it's my turn in Texas!
North Dallas, Texas
Long lasting great finish
long lasting great finish
Best I have used
Recommended to me as a final finish on my kayak projects. Though pricey, the outcome with this product is absolutely gorgeous. It is a glass smooth, very hard, totally clear finish that easily brushes on with a foam brush. Excellent cover for fiberglass resin, bonds very well. As a gallon will serve for many projects, the price becomes quite reasonable per finished product.