System Three Mirror Coat epoxy is a pourable, self-leveling bar and tabletop coating. It works well on many surfaces such as wood, ceramics, plaster, masonry and some plastics.
MirrorCoat cures to a glossy, smooth finish that is scratch and stain resistant. A clear 2:1 ratio epoxy system, cured Mirror Coat is unaffected by alcohol, as well as waterproof.
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Follow the detailed application instructions in the Mirror Coat brochure to achieve outstanding results on bar tops and tables. Also use as a decoupage coating on cloth, leather, photos and other objects.
Mix Ratio by Volume resin/hardener: 2:1
Mix Ratio by Weight resin/hardener: 100:44
Solids Content: 100 percent
Coverage at 60 mils (0.060 inch): 25 square ft/Gal
Heat Deflection Temperature: 120 degrees F
Working time @ 25 degrees C: 60 Minutes
Cure time @ 25 degrees C: 24 Hours
Number Of Parts:
I am building a bartop and plan to utilize your product to coat the bar when I am done. Coating the horizontal portion is straight forward.How do you coat traditional bar rail around the sides of the bar?- Pour excess on and let it drip down/add more as you go along if it doesn't cover?- Brush/roll on? - or ???
On the vertical edges you would roll or brush it on and let the excess run off. Place plastic underneath to catch the excess. You will need to do multiple coats to get to the desired thickness. As it is curing be sure to go back and clean off the drips on the edge because the will be difficult to sand off once hard.
JD Tech Team
I am converting an old dresser into a vanity. I plan on painting the dresser but need to water proof the top. Will this product work to protect the top from water and soap splashes?
Yes; I've completed the same project with this product. It creates a very thick "bar grade" coating on the top. It withstands sloppy hand washers (I have kids) and standing water. I'd bore your cuts for plumbing first; paint and allow that to dry. Mask the dresser with tape and paper or preferably plastic as mirror coat needs to self level and flow over the edge and drip off. Undersides of the vanity edge can then be sanded where there was run off. Have fun and good luck.
To answer your question, yes. Would I use it for my house? no. I did the same for my house, turned an old dresser into a vanity with a cool black glass bowl on top and faucet set (Bowl and faucet came together) from box store. I used Hi-gloss Polyurethane instead of the mirror coat. My biggest reason being if I ever want to add another coat for what ever reason, I have a can of the Polyurethane in the basement. Pop the lid off and throw another coat. I used 6 coats of the poly to do the bathroom vanity. I work at a YMCA camp. They wanted a coffee station for our guests made out of a slab of wood. The mirror coat worked great for that purpose because it filled in voids of the natural wood. The coating is tough as nails. I used about 5 coats of mirror coat. Hope this helps.
Yes. It would seal the wood completely. The product is a very slow cure. 8-12 hrs before it stops moving. I used it to seal bar tops that get a lot of use. You do have to wave a flame over it every half hour or so to pop bubbles. Especially the first coat., because air is escaping from the wood.
Can this product be used for casting in molds?
Leftover epoxy in a cup hardens up pretty good over 24 hrs. but the block is usually sticky in a spot or two when you bust it out. Probably due to not totally mixing in the cup? So you would need to mix it real well then pour into the mold. Try it. If the finished product isn't painted and will be in the sun, you might have to coat it with some UV inhibitor.
The resin develops a fair amount of heat while setting so I wouldn't suggest casting anything large. For something small it would probably work. You would also need a very good mold release, this epoxy is VERY sticky.
I am building a table of mesquite which has a number of areas from which the bark has been removed and which I wish to fill with a clear epoxy materials. I've had mirror coat recommended but it seems that is more of a layer material than used to fill a void. Would appreciate any comments/recommendations?Thanks
Thanks Tim. That helps.
I too used mirror coat in a similar manner. You must not have any cracks that will allow the mirror coat to run through. I suggest filling the gaps with something else. If you need to use mirror coat only fill the gaps and add a second coat later. What happened to me was a depression where the mirror coat ran through. Filling the resulting gap and then sanding smooth was a lot of work.
Thanks very much. As suspected and yes, a "run through" was in fact my primary concern.
I used mirror coat to fill voids up to 1/2" deep, and it worked great. I made a bathroom backsplash with a mold from bent aluminum flashing that was 1/2" x 4" x 8' and sealed the corners with silicone caulk to keep the acrylic from leaking out. I partially filled the mold with small, decorative rocks and then poured the acrylic in in two pours, letting the first pour set before doing the second one. From what I remember if it is deeper than about 3/8", it may overhead while curing and get cloudy. My project came out beautifully. The acrylic is crystal clear like water and has not changed in the 3 years since I made it.
You can fill voids with Mirror Coat, but depending on how big they are, you may want to fill them in two or three separate pours and let the resin cure between each pour. Mirror Coat is very slow curing, so heating shouldn't be a problem, but better safe than sorry.
Wondering if I can use this product just to fill cracks where I inlay wood into other wood projects and then sand off and finish with my wood varnish to produce a smooth surface where the cracks were? My varnish settles into these cracks but doesn't fill them.
Yes this product could fill cracks and holes. We built several counters that had imperfections that needed filling before the finished surface was level. Down side, this product is self leveling and will continue to find holes and cracks to leak out. We used clear silicone caulk to seal and then it was fine. Good luck.
Thanks for the information Mike L!
No. This product is not designed for that type of application. try using a two-part, 5 minute epoxy. you can purchase pigments from art supply stores and mix into epoxy to get any color. sparingly apply in multiple 'coats' to the voids-use a very sharp paint scraper between coats (after a couple of hours of drying) to remove excess on surface before applying next coat.
I would not use mirror coat to fill gaps between inlay woods.It will show up as dark gaps. It would be better to use a wood filler that matches the wood surrounding the inlay.
Yes, I found that you need to sand to 600 or so or it will look cloudy
can i use this on a painted surface?
I'm pretty sure you can use it on just about any surface. Be sure to mix it thoroughly and follow the manufacturers recommendations to the letter. More seems better so you can let it flow without too much working of it. If there are any voids in the surface, it will flow right through them. I used it on a bar top made of rough tongue and groove oak planking. The irregularities in the milling allowed the resin to flow right through using up a lot of the product.
If the paint is adhering well to the surface, yes.
Don't use it. I couldn't get it to work well with out bubbles and dry proper.
has anyone used this as an outdoor finish on decks or porch wood decking. I have a partially covered wood Jatoba deck and want to prevent any future weathering and am tired of recoating with waterproofing and oils that seem to be either dull, gummy and conceal woods beauty. I have applied Smiths penetrating sealer and now am looking for finish or top coat?
I don't think it would be good for that. It has to be a thick coat or it will crack and it would be very slippery.
I think there are two issues, first the amount of area to cover and the associated cost. I don't know how the finish does when painted on not poured on. The second issue is related to pouring on, the surface needs to be level since this is a self leveling product. I have only used it on table tops and bar tops. Hope I was of some help.
I am using Mirror Coat on a tile table that will be outside. And it sealed great and left a beautiful clear finish. As an outdoor finish Mirror Coat will yellow over time unless you finish with a UV protectant varnish like Bristol. I would try it on a scrap wood first. When I built a drift boat, I know that System 3 recommended that you not apply Epoxy on stained wood. The oil in stain would keep Epoxy from bonding with the wood. I have a small piece of Redwood 1'X1' that I Epoxy encapsulated for a little outdoor table and then applied Bristol UV Varnish and it has been out doors for 3 years and all I do is wash it off and it still looks great.
William so you can apply a urethane varnish over the mirror coat? Is the varnish waterbourne or polyurethane? Thanks
I used Bristol over System 3 Silver Tip Epoxy on the bright finish on my drift boat and it has worked great. I am going to try it on my mirror coat in a small area to see if it yellows much. On White Oak or Redwood it is imperceptible but it does have an amber tinge to it. Bristol is a 2 part Urethane. I see that S3 has a varnish now that they call clear and is UV protectant. I am going to check it out also. BTW it took about 5 days for the mirror coat to harden up at 60F. That may not work for your deck
what would one use to polish mirror coat?
jewelers rouge on slow cloth wheel
some areas remain slightly tacky after 6 days - how do I fix this?
Well, a month later, after a second thin top coat, as recommended thefirst time, it is still tacky! I measured preciselywith a large medical syringe, so I know I was EXACT with my mixture. The second "thin" coat was haevy on the hardner.I think my project is ruined, as I cannot make this harden. My "trial" pieces were perfect! The only thing I did gifferently was paint the undercoat of the wood before adding my "artifacts" and covering with the mirror coat on the final product! Very Disappointed!!!!!!!
Sounds like you have problem with the proportions of resin and hardener. Have only seen this when I messed up and did not use enough hardener. Now I weigh the resin and hardener to insure correct proportions. It might cure with more time, otherwise only thing I can suggest is another thin coat on top.
Sometimes it may take 10 days to cure. You might try putting a low level heat lamp on it.
Is this suitable for outside or will it degrade in the sun?
I have not noticed it to degrade outdoors.
We are using the product indoors only. I have heard uv light would degrade the epoxy but have not seen the effect. Our use of it, a conference table , and two counters is working out great.
great w experience
This is shiny and hard. I had to get to know how it acted. Then all good.I used vinegar to clean my and project from unwanted epoxy. A little runny. Scraped drips from bottom when slightly set wiped bumps with vinegar.and then was more modest with side painting and controlling my application amount and location. Thickens slightly within 15 min but a long cure time which to me is OK. Very nice finish. Follows instructions learn how to use a torch to praise bubbles in thicker apps. Greased with vasoline a form can be used too!!
south sound washington
Too Many Problems
Disappointing result on expensive table top.First problem- drip runs down the vertical sides resulted in numerous vertical run ridges on sides despite my spending 4+ hours continually brushing the sides as it set and later sanding. Secondly I had set an inlay piece of wood design in the table top. Despite 2 initial sealer coats, the inlay continually leaked an air bubble as the epoxy filled tiny spaces underneath it. Final coat had a crater near the inlay from the epoxy sucking into spaces. Most importantly, as it was finally curing, a pattern appeared inside the epoxy of identical looking ring-like 'cells' that looked like snake-skin scales. Product difficult to work with as ANY imperfections are VERY noticeable against high gloss. Sorry I used it.
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Not very scratch resistant
Used this product on a maple kitchen table. The finish was superb. Super smooth and glossy. waited six full days. Placed a warm, not hot plate on the table and it left a permanant mark. Very gentle use and I am seeing lots of fine scratches already. This stuff is not nearly hard enough.
Dont put anything warm on it
warm items will leave marks on this surface
so easy a
I do custom woodworks and outdoor combinations.Recently used mirror coat to finish and adhere a elk skull sunk in a stump for a table base.The black pigment made a shinny void the head seamed to melt into and with the clear finsh over everything,well this project went from good to great because of your product,and it couldn't be any easier to use.Can't wait to come up with more custom uses.sincerly yours Jason Henning of HenningWrkz
follow directions exactly.clean,dust&oil free"pitch,wood oils.Seal with prep coat.Looks,easy to apply holds up to UVs.could be more scatch reisant.