COVID-19 Update: We are open & shipping orders! We are working hard to ship as quickly as possible, while ensuring the safety of our associates. Please note: we have closed our Bristol retail store. Click for details
Jamestown Distributors(800) 497-0010
Click to watch the JD Search Tutorial video & learn
all about searching and browsing on Jamestowndistributors.com
Standard Foam Brushes for use with varnish, enamels, stains, latex, and oil paints. Not for use with shellac or lacquer. These foam brushes produce a great smooth finish and yet they are priced to be thrown-away when you are done.
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
Will these brushes work with Awlwood? Thanks
I'm not familiar with that product but I used these for a teak and Holly sole in the cabin of my sailboat (among other epoxy/fiberglass projects) and got great results! For me the secret was in the prep. Thanks for your question...it reminds me to order more!Eric Sylvia"Miss Beppie"1981 Islander Bahama 30
I'm not familiar with Awlwood. However, I am an artist and prefer these foam brushes. They hold paint well, keep their firmness and wash well. I would guess they would work fine with just about any surface.
KATHERINE M. HUNT
I use the foam brushes for all of my painting, but occasionally have trouble with two part epoxy paints. Have no experience with Awlwood. I would recommend trying a couple first before you buy a whole box of them.
Hi - I'm refinishing my boat interior with Interlux Schooner 96 varnish, applying it with a high quality ox hair bristle brush. I'm getting small amounts of dust in the dried finish, which I believe are coming from the brush, not the surrounding air. I'm considering using a foam brush for the final coat, to get a smoother, dust free finish. Can these brushes be used with Interlux varnish without falling apart? Thanks, Clark
I have used these for acrylic and oil paints without a problem, in various painting projects, and I suspect that it would work with a varnish from the standpoint of foam interaction with the solvents used, (however, epoxy glue does the foam in fairly quickly!), but I don't know how it would flow or level with a foam point-of-contact as opposed to its behavior with a good quality brush bristle. Get a couple of them locally & try them (JEN manufactured are better than the "no-name" types, I've used JEN for nearly 40 years, and wouldn't use another brand without some serious convincing). If they work for you, buy a box-full from Jamestown, that's how I get them! Good luck with this! Lester
Thanks everyone for the good advice. I used a Jen foam brush today on one small panel and will see how it turns out after it dries tomorrow. So far so good.
you shouldn't have any problem using these with the Schooner varnish. If you're cleaning the ox hair brush well, the dust must be coming from the air, but use the foam brush and see how the finish comes out. Good luck!
Hi William - many thanks for your quick response! I suspected dust in the air as well, so I thoroughly cleaned everything and built a plastic tent over my varnishing table. Still ended up with some dust in the finish. My brush is a good one but I've had to use brush cleaner on it when the bristles started to stiffen after a dozen uses. I suspect that there is still some tiny dried varnish dust in the bristles, which is why I'd like to try foam. Thanks again...
Yes, but be warned, foam brushes are highly addicting. Luckily Jamestown ships them in plain unmarked packages.
I've used these with other varnishes of high quality and as long as you're very careful not to shake the varnish (stir) and apply patiently and smoothly, they work great. I applied 10 coats to Sapele and it turned out great with no blemishes and a beautiful finish. Gave up on bristle brushes since I found these to be equally rewarding with the throw away factor being a major one!
I've been using these foam brushes for years with varnish. They last at least 1/2 hour before you have to replace them. I'm a great fan.
I use foam brushes for a lot of my vanishing but My finishes are not the high quality you may be looking for. I suspect your dust is from the air or left on the boat after sanding. Varnish takes a long time to dry and is exposed to the dust in air longer. I doubt that you are getting dust from your brush.
what size are these brushes??
the brushes come in 4 sizes 1" 2" 3" and 4" they can also be purchased in a pack that includes all 4 sizes. I usually buy a box of whatever size i am low on.
This comes in 1, 2, 3, 4" use the drop down arrow next to the price to show the width selections.
You can order them in different sizes. I've ordered mostly 1" and 2" but I believe they go as high as 5-6".
Can you use the foam brush with Bristol finish? It's urethane base.
I have not had any experience with Bristol finishes Sorry
I've used these brushes with urethane, ethelane, varnish, and epoxies of all kinds without a problem.
How well will the foam brush work with water based varnish? This varnish tends to leave bubbles easily in the finish and the more you try to brush it out, the more streaked it gets.I'm thinking the finer the foam the less bubbles.Thanks for your input
SorryI don't use water based coatingsso I'm afraid that I can not help you
first of all, make SURE THEY ARE JEN BRUSHES...this company tried to pass off a cheaper brand and would not take them back nor replace them. Jen brushes are excellent, but like any other brush, they can leave streaks, but the Jen are the best for not leaving as many.
I only used them on oil base varnish.
Hello, I am going with a cedar countertop for my bathroom counter, I've seen where some have suggested an epoxy prior to the marine varnish. Would you also suggest this or should I be using a sealer instead of the epoxy? Thank you, O. Ragan
Not sure I'd use varnish for the countertop. I think it might be too soft. I'd try epoxy alone. I'm assuming it's not in sunlight which would degrade the epoxy.Look at Silvertip epoxy products. I'm pretty sure they have one specific to bar tops and counter tops
We don't work with those types of sealers or wood. We use MDO; oil base enamels; and outdoor UV coatings. I would contact a custom furniture builder and ask him/her this question. Sorry I could not be of more help.
Cedar is quite soft; not the optimum choice for a countertop. That said, it's also porous and likes to absorb water, so sealing it THOROUGHLY, on all surfaces, is important in a bathroom. Epoxy isn't the only way to do this, but it's what I would use. Cladding the top surface of the cedar with a layer of fiberglass set in epoxy would both seal it and protect the soft wood from dents and gouges.
I am not a fan of epoxy as a base. If you are using marine varnish just thin the first couple coats as recommended on the label. Look up coating schedule on Jamestown website.As recommended by Epifanes:I thin 1st coat 50/50 w/ companion thinner2nd coat thinned 25/75 w/ companion thinner3rd coat 15/85 w/ companion thinner Then full strength coats until grain is filled, generally 8-12 coatsGood luck!
Is the foam part glued to the handle, or does the foam slip over a plastic piece? I need some 1 inch foam brushes that wont come apart.
Slips over plastic piece
JD's foam brushes are glued to wood handles. They don't last very long with epoxy, but do fine with paint and varnish. Great product for the price.
Foam is glued to a plastic piece attached to the wooden handle. I have used this with varnish products and not had any issues with the foam coming apart. I
ADVANCED SPINE ATTN : GRANT
I know just what you're talking about! These held up sufficiently well for my purposes. I'd say they're good value---but they're not bristle: they are very inexpensive foam brushes and you shouldn't expect perfection!
It slips over a plastic tab
There is a plastic piece to offer support to the foam but the foam is securely (as securely as foam can be) attached to the wooden handle. Remember it is only a foam brush and is not designed to do large, heavy duty jobs. I use them for varnishing projects up to entry door size but usually on doors I use two so as not to press my luck
As far as I can tell, the foam is glued to a plastic piece that's glued to the handle. I've been using these brushes for more than 10 years and have never had one come apart.
Why not a foam brush with sikkens cetol marine?
They have worked for me.
Because it melts the foam.
Works great, but only with JEN foam brushes.
Not sure what is in Sikkens cetol, but some solvents will soften or dissolve the plastic used for the foam.
How many in a box?
Depending on size there are about 36 in a box. I buy a wide variety of sizes for use in by reproduction wood working. Great for sample staining etc. Use large sizes to do last coats to get great finish.
I really do not know, but there are, I think, four rows of maybe 10 1" brushes, and less of the larger ones. The Jen brushes are the only good ones for varnish work.Bob S
Should I use foam brushes with interlux two part primer and interlux two part paint? Thanks
Thanks Randy...just what i was looking for...take care and havae a great summer!!Stan
Good question..I am not sure I would use them with top coat paint paritcularly with epoxy and limited pot times. Although I use them for varnish, foam brushes dont' seem to load as well as bristle brushes nor do they last as long. I do use foam rollers however, they work great with the roll and tip method of top coating.
I cannot comment, I've only used them for one part varnish. Very good foam brushes.
I would buy this product again
Loads paint very well
Live Oak Fl
As advertised. Great product.
I would not buy this again
The price is good, but the brushes fall apart with somewhat light use. I bought a box of them. The foam fell off of 3 out of 7 brushes I used while I was applying varnish the trim of a sailboat.
Foam brushes have their place, and as far as foam brushes go, these are much stiffer than the typical cheap quality ones you get at your local big box store or hardware store. They are a great value also when you buy them in these box quantities.
I do buy these brushes again and again
I use them for varnishing mostly, No brush strokes or errant hairs in the finish, the foam does not fall off the handle or get soft half way through the job and they are strong enough for several uses. I just wrap in tin foil and freeze between uses. Also use them to tip when I roll on Awlgrip.
Beat brushes for varnish
Very cost effective if bought by th box from Jamestown
Best quality foam brushes
i've tried them all and these are the best I've found. i use them primarily for good quality paint finishes and for very good varnish finishes. They are not expensive when buying by the box and can be reused a few times if you squeeze them out and place them in a plastic zip bag. i'll save my nice varnish brushes for the fussiest work.
Will continue using Jen Foam brushes.
Students use the sponge brushes when I'm doing Arts Integrated residencies in the classroom. Usually around 100+- students learn to recycle the brushes for re-use. The quality is very good, considering how many times they are washed.I also use Jen Foam brushes for my commissions. Art Form?Hand Painted Screens.
I would buy this product again
Varnishing a boat
the best foam brushes
as opposed to lesser foam brushes, these don't fall apart. the cost savings of buying a box of these is substantial.