Interlux Pre-Kote primer is used above the waterline prior to painting topsides with Brightside polyurethane, Toplac, yacht enamels, or any one part topside finish on wood, fiberglass, and previously painted surfaces.
Pre-kote contains microspheres for superior build and hide. Microspheres also make it easier to sand.
This primer requires thinner INT-0333 (for brushing) or INT-0216 (for spraying).
Available in Gray or White.
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Specific Gravity: 1.397
Volume Solids: 61%
Typical Shelf Life: 2 yrs
VOC (As Supplied): 330 g/lt
Unit Size: 1 US QUART, 1 US GALLON
Number of Coats: 1-2 as needed
Coverage (Theoretical) - 450
Area Above the waterline
Apply with: Brush, roller, or conventional spray
APPLICATION AND USE
Preparation: PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES: Sand old surfaces with 120 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Wipe with Brushing Liquid 333. Repair surface defects with Surfacing Putty 257. Sand surface, wipe clean.
BARE WOOD: Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Wipe with Brushing Liquid 333. Repair surface defects with Surfacing Putty 257. PLYWOOD: Follow directions for bare wood. Apply Inter-Prime Wood Sealer Clear 1026. MAHOGANY Follow directions for bare wood. Apply Pre-Kote directly to the wood.
BARE FIBERGLASS: Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Wipe with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Repair surface defects with Interfill Epoxy Filler. Sand surface, wipe clean.
Method: Apply 1-2 coats. Depending on surface condition. Allow the necessary overcoating time between applications. Sand between primer coats with 120 grade (grit) paper until translucent. Remove sanding residue with a rag dampened with Brushing Liquid 333. Apply finish coats. Sand with 220 grade (grit) paper between Pre-Kote and finish enamel.
Conventional Spray Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.08 bar/50-60 psi (gun pressure). Pot pressure (6 ft hose) 8-10 psi. Tip Size: 0.89-1.4 mm/35-50 thou. Siphon Cup: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi - gun pressure. Tip Size: 1.8-2.2 mm/70-85 thou.
Other Spray pressures listed are recommendations only. The applicator may use any settings which yield the best results for the individual spraying technique and current weather conditions. It is always good painting practice to apply the finish enamel soon after sanding to avoid surface contamination. Always apply at least one coat of Pre-Kote over area treated with Surfacing Putty 257 to seal the putty and eliminate shadows.
Some Important Points: Pre-Kote is a high solids primer. Avoid a heavy application as this may lead to solvent entrapment. Product temperature should be minimum 10 degrees C/50 degrees F and maximum 29 degrees C/85 degrees F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10 degreeas C/50 degrees F and maximum 35 degrees C/95 degrees F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10 degrees C/50 degrees F and maximum 29 degrees C/85 degrees F.
Compatibility/Substrates: Apply to clean, dry, properly prepared surfaces only. Do not apply over clear epoxy such as Epiglass Epoxy.
Number of Coats: 1-2 as needed
Coverage: (Theoretical) - 450 (sq ft/Gal) by brush, 360 (sq ft/Gal) by spray
Application Methods: Brush, Roller, Airless Spray, Conventional Spray - Pressure Pot or Siphon Cup
50 Degrees F
73 Degrees F
95 Degrees F
min - max time
min - max time
min - max time
TRANSPORTATION,STORAGE AND SAFETY INFORMATION
TRANSPORTATION: Pre-Kote should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage.
STORAGE: Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Pre-Kote to be realised ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5 degrees C/40 degrees and 35 degrees C/95 degrees F. Keep out of direct sunlight.
DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to harden before disposal.
Remainders of Pre-Kote cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit. Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities.
GENERAL: Read the label safety section for Health and Safety Information, also available from our Technical Help Line.
I am just hitting spots with the primer where I have put in filler can I cut the primer by 10% or just use it right out of the can. And the instructions on the can don't say anything about sanding between coats however your instructions say to light sand with a 220. I am going over existing paint and filler then going to apply Brightside, please advise.
If it seems a little thick you can cut it up to 10%. I would sand between coats.
JD Tech Team
restoring a 1973 marlin started to paint with enamal changed my mind thrir are still some shadows of black showing i am using interlux primer and brightside 1 part poly will this be a problem
It will probably require more coats to hide the old paint.
When tipping is the brush wet?
No it is not wet. I did an area 4 x 9 feet with a roller and then using a dry brush I did tipping by pulling the dry brush down in full strokes from top of work to bottom. I continued to do this rapidly and slightly overlaying strokes till the full 4 x 9 area was fully done.
I kept my foam tipping brush dry. Just used it for getting the bubbles out. Finish can out great
If it is not, it will drag too much paint. How wet? Depends on how well you have prepped the surface and the humidity. Just one of those procedures you have to try to get it right.
Yes, And I have a clean rag with solvent to help keep the paint flowing when it starts to "drag"
Regarding the video on rolling and tipping over Pre-Kote primer, what kind of roller was used and what brush to tip?
I'm sorry I can't help. I spray
Builds good and sands easily making a fine base.
I used a foam brush to tip it. A west system epoxy roller to put it on. Then I sanded it w 220 grit until it was almost translucent. 2nd coat I used 50/50 primer and actual red paint. Came out pink. Had to quickly put the third coat as the neighbors were upset.
Should I use Pre Kote before Bottom Paint?The boat is a 1971 Catalina 22 with a fiberglass swing keel
Pre Kote is great if the surface is oxidized. Remove the oxidized layer with a light sand and wash. I used acetone to prep the surface just prior to painting. For the bottom I then used Interlux bottom primer followed by antifouler
when painting good preparation will insure a better joba prime coat is necessary for the paint to have good adhesion and help your job last longer.
I'm not qualified to answer that for your application but I will say that the product worked well for me along with Jamestown Dist. Recommendations.
how do i clean brushes?
I use interlux brushing liquid 333,then paint thinner then final rinse w/ brushing liquid. Use the expensive stuff very sparingly. When working on surfaces that dont require flat finish I use chip brushes and toss (topside seams before filling / sanding).
Just plain mineral spirits always worked for me.
I just used mineral spirits. The MFG has their own spec thinner which should work as well
How is this products performance on aluminum?
Pre-Kote Primer is designed for use on wood or fiberglass. It is not recommended for use on ferrous and non-ferrous metals. I learned this after buying a gallon of it for my houseboat restoration (steel and aluminum construction). For your aluminum project, you'll need to go with automotive urethanes or epoxies. Be sure to use a good automotive primer first to achieve good adhesion and finish.
what are the consequences of not using thinner?
I have never thinned it and it works great!
Epiphanes is really too thick to use right out of the can and if used at that state will produce a mottled appearance when dry - and it will take a long time to dry. What happens is that the top surface dries before the underlying liquid and prevents that underlying varnish drying at an even rate. The thickness also prevents the wood from absorbing the varnish and making good adhesion.
I have recaulked seams on a wooden boat. Now I need to apply seam compound and it says to apply primer first. Which primer is best for this application?
I have used this primer on several occasions, but not on seams that use caulk. This primer has had excellent adhesion results, both over fiberglass and over bare wood. I have been very satisfied.Barry
Sorry, I'm not qualified to answer that question. My application was on a epoxy resin only. I would contact caulk supplier with your question as caulk may emit various solvents causing primer failure!
Is this the correct primer to use on metal surfaces that are rusted (engine stringers on my boat)?
Quite frankly my use was strictly on Fiberglass. Rusted metal is totally different. This primer worked fine in my case, but I cannot judge it's effectiveness on rust. sorry Henry K
IT would work, but painting over rust doesn't stop the problem. I would use a product that stops/kills rust as a primer
After I purchased Interlux Pre-Kote Primer to prep a steel houseboat for painting, a local marine parts store employee informed me this primer is intended only for fiberglass or wood applications. He recommended that I contact a local auto paint store where I found excellent primers and paints for metal surfaces. I painted the entire houseboat last year (aluminum siding and steel railings and rub rails). The boat still looks like the day I painted it.
I have only used this primer on wood surfaces, and it has excellent adhesion and durability.
Hi Chas,I would not recommend using this primer on metal. It is specifically designed to be used on Fiberglass and wood.
The basis for a great finish
Two or three coats of Pre Coat sanded well gives a great base for a fabulous Brightside finish. Thin the Brightside with a capful of 333 thinner to enhance flow in warmer weather.
Peter, the Shellback guy
Great product at a great price and fast shipping AAA +++
Great base coat
Sand well prior to application with 120. Then with 220-320 to smooth out and reduce scratches. Wipe surface with acetone and follow with a cloth dampened with 333 brushing fluid (if rolling/ brushing). Build coats, sanding between. I added some of my finish coat (Blu-glow White) to last coat to promote adhesion to the primer for the finish coats)
I would buy this item again great product
All I can say is this company is the BEST. They took great care of me.
First time user
First time using this product on a highly oxidized sailboat. Great brush on application.
Used before, on another boat!
Use on interior and exterior of small boat, great coverage, lite sanding between coats. Use with Interlux One Part Polys, Never had a problem with Interlux products.
Virginia Beach, VA
Easy to apply, not as easy to sand
I used this product to prime the hull of my 32" Endeavour sailboat after repairing extensive damage from "superstorm" Sandy. The overall experience was great, but I tried to focus on the lessons I learned below to help others avoid them.The pros are the product is easy to apply, just like paint, and it does a good job hiding minor imperfections. It also provided a great base for the brightsides. Overall I was very happy with it.The cons, for me, were that it left a bit more orange peel than I expected, even though the surface was thoroughly prepared by sanding, 216 wiping, etc. It may have been my application that did it (roll/tip), but either way, it was a lot of work to sand off. Many reviews said it sands off easily, but I found it was not what I would call easy, and that the dust, especially if it became wet, was almost like rehydrated prekote. So much so that I had to use 333 to get it off of my hands! Also, the prekote is pretty thick, which gives it great ability to hide imperfections, but the thickness also leaves what I would describe as stripes where you overlap the previously prekoted section. I would recommend being very careful about painting up to the wet edge, but not over it, to help prevent this. I'm not sure the product should be thinned, as the reviews on that issue vary, but perhaps thinning a bit might help alleviate some of the overlap stripes, though I'm not sure if that would effect the purpose of the product. Sometimes knowing the difficult stuff up front helps, so take my experience with the product for what its worth. Overall, I think the product was great and would recommend it.
Staten Island, NY
Covers very well
I used to undercoat a new non-skid job on a Pearson 30 (Pearson swirls). It even covered some black showing through the non-skid. You need to work fast as it dries quickly. Used on day temps in the 70s and low humidity. It could cover more evenly, though. But I'm pleased with the result.
Great Product, Great Price, Overall A+
I used it to prime my resto boat, and it worked out great. I applied it using the roll and tip method, which takes a bit of adapting to get used to. I havent finished yet, but so far im real happy!!! And jamestown dist is awesome when it comes to help over the phone, [...]! Cant wait to order more from jamestown dist so i can get this thing finished! Thanks Guys
Ofallon, IL (St. Louis)
Smooth as silk, filled very well
Following directions, this product performed extremely well. Filled minor imperfections and made a great prime coat for the Interlux Topside one-part Polyurethane paint applied (2 coats) as the finish coat. I actually primed and saned the previously painted wood 3 times. I sanded with 120 grit, again 120 grit, then 180 after the 3rd prime. Results excellent. Take your time. Do not apply too thickly.