Interlux Epoxy Primekote is a multi-purpose two-part epoxy primer for use above or below the waterline. Epoxy Primekote is an excellent under coater for Perfection 2-Part Polyurethane finishes.
Epoxy Primekote is used as a sanding surface to smooth rough lay-up and to resurface cracked and crazed gelcoat. Use Primekote to overcoat clear epoxies to eliminate the effects of amine blush.
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PREPARATION & APPLICATION
Epoxy Primekote (formerly Epoxy Barrier-Kote) is a multi-purpose two-part epoxy primer that sands freely without loading the sandpaper.
Epoxy Primekote can be used with any topside paint but it is the recommended primer for use with two-part finishes such as Perfection and can also be overcoated with Toplac, Brightside, Interlux Yacht Enamel, Interdeck and Bilgekote. It is also used as part of a system to re-surface cracked and crazed gelcoat prior to the application of topside paint.
Use Epoxy Primekote over clear epoxies as a sanding surfacer and to eliminate the effects of amine blush. Epoxy Primekote is bright white, which makes it ideal for priming bilge and locker areas. When using Epoxy Primekote below the waterline, apply a minimum of 5-6 coats (10 mils minimum). Epoxy Primekote may be applied by brush, roller or spray.
BARE FIBERGLASS: Degrease with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Abrade with 120-220 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.
CLEAR EPOXY: Allow three to seven days for clear epoxies to cure fully. Remove amine blush by using Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Sanding does not remove contamination. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Abrade with 80-120 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Sand with 80 grade (grit) sandpaper and remove sanding residue with Brushing Reducer 2333N. Repair any defects with Interfill Watertite Epoxy Filler, then sand with 120-220 grade (grit) paper and remove sanding residue.
BARE METAL: Surface should be blasted to bright metal. If blasting is not possible, grind with 36 grade (grit) discs. Apply one coat of Interprotect 2000E that has been thinned 10-15% with Reducing Solvent 2316N. Follow overcoating times for InterProtect 2000E and then apply Epoxy Primekote.
BARE WOOD: Sand surface with 80-120 grade (grit) paper and wipe clean.
Number Of Parts:
Topside Paint Primer
Can Prikmekok and Perfection be used on a textured fiberglass Blazer top?
T%he only time I used primekote was on a wood boat with smooth finish.
I assume that you mean Primekote epoxy primer. If the surface can be roughed up (break any gloss finish) and is well cleaned, the primer should stick well (and thus the top coat). This product adheres very well to old fiberglass. This primer is very hard and does not leave a smooth coat, thus the finish coat will be more satin than gloss as you will not be able to sand the textured surface smooth. If that is acceptable, this should make a very durable finish for your top.
I'm sorry I do not know
This is a very heavy bodied primer, even when thinned so doesn't roll/tip well (tends to leave ridges that don't smooth out). I found rolling with a smooth foam roller left the smoothest finish which is still an "orange peel". I would think the primer texture would blend in to the existing texture without problem.
Hi Steve,Yes Primekote (not sure how I managed that typo). Satin is preferred so this may be ideal. Do you foresee any issues with the roll/tip method on the textured fiberglass? Thanks!
After using Interlux Epoxy Prime Kote...How long do I need to wait 'till I apply finish Eurathane paint ?And do I need to sand and wash prior ?
I waited 24 hour before sanding the primer and then wiped it down with cleaner before painting with two part poly. Hope this helps.
I let it dry overnight, don't sand. Any longer you may have to. Read the can to be sure. Also, you will be shocked at how thick this stuff is! You really have to thin it especially if spraying.
We waited overnight, then sanded. After three coats of Epoxy Prime Kote we sanded with 400 grit paper. Our final coat was perfection (four coats) and the finished product was so shiny it looked like it had been sprayed. Sanding with 400 took a long time, but the results were worth it. Keep in mind that the longer you let Prime Kote sit, the harder it is to sand.
can 233n solvent be used to clean wood before applying prime coat?
I think you can use 2333N can be used on raw wood but any residual paint might be softened. Also, 2333N evaporates quickly so check to see if it makes wood "fuzzy" after using. Of course, it works really well cleaning other surfaces prior to Interlux Polyurethane Epoxy application. Make sure wood has completely dried prior to paint application.Good luck,TRB
I used a quite a variety of Interlux products while rebuilding my 55 Cruiser. I admit to being tempted OFTEN to use alternative solvents, but I always relented and went back to what was recommended in their technical information. I did contact Interlux who put me in contact with a rep who really knew his stuff. I cannot recall off the top of my head which solvent I was inquiring about, but he did have some suggestions on when alternates might be allowable.Sorry I couldn't answer your specific question, as I know how frustrating it can be when u realize u don't have all the stuff and it is not available down the street. Good luck
I did not use this on wood I put a new floor in my boat which the wood was coated 1708 cloth and epoxy resin I did thin it with 233n solvent sorry could not help you
That's what I used and it turned out perfect.
How much of the 2333N solvent can I use for good flow when coating? Interlux recommends a minimum of 25%. I coating a flat deck.
Follow the Interlux directions completely. They know. Start with the 25%.Then in low humidity or on a windy or hot day, add solvent and stir in well AS you paint in order to maintain flow. You can tell when you need more solvent by how the paint gets too thick in the paint roller tray, so stay tuned into the flow of the paint and add 2333N right into the tray if needed. Stir it in the tray and continue. It's an art as well as a science. I have found the Interlux products to be pretty forgiving.I have often called the Interlux people and they are the NICEST people in the world and will talk to you forever, telling you all kinds of tricks and ideas and helpful knowledge. I love the Interlux people!
Thanks Julia Do you have their Tech Serv tele#?
ROBERT:Sorry I am not qualified to give an answer to your question. ITs been a while since I used primekote and I don't remember what mix I used. I liked the product though.
Depends a lot on temperature and humidity there is a PDF file on Interlux website with guidelines.
I have found that appox. 25 % works well, you do not want to thin to too much.
You'll only need to thin 5-10? in order to get a good flow.
Hi, We're refinishing the decks of our Cape Dory 31 over here in Nova Scotia with Epoxy Prime Coat, followed by Interlux Perfection 2-part (Kiwigrip for the non-skid areas) and we have a question: After applying 2 coats of Epoxy Prime Coat, how long can this be left on the deck without the tops coats of Perfection or Kiwigrip? The reason we ask is that the weather here can make it difficult to complete a multi-step finish quickly. ThanksJenn and Terry McAdams
Thanks so much, John. That puts our mind to rest. We may even leave the Kiwigrip part to after we haul out and put the cover on - lots of room and good ventilation under the cover.Jenn and Terry
International Epoxy PrimeKoat is quite forgiving in that regard. I have left it as my only finish for a whole season b/4 I completely finished a topside job. Although it turned amber color, it still sanded up nicely and accepted Perfection like the newly primed areas. I would not worry. Same weather situation here on Cape Cod, I have a project that has been in PrimeKoat primer for 3 weeks now waiting for weather.
Thanks so much, Keith. I couldn't find the "on deck shelf life" on the Interlux dealers sites. The stuff seems pretty tough, so we think we'll be fine if it takes us several weeks to get all finish coats on.Terry
I used the Epoxy Primekote on the bubbletop of my Airstream Camper Van. I had weather issues here in Central Florida as well - it took me a couple of weeks from first coat to of primer to topcoat, and we even did a weekend festival camping trip with just the primer! Sanded it and washed it down before the first topcoat - no problems!
The Prime Coat can be left on for an extended period of time. I have left it uncoated for many months with no subsequent issues related to finish coats.
can this product be used over previously painted gelcoat?
Ted. thank you. There is no way I can sand the paint off of the non-skid which is molded into the gelcoat. Is there a paint on substitute for sanding?
Yes it can. I used it on my 1969 Morgan 41 that I had previously painted in 1994 with interlux Brightside after sanding with 120 grit and filling low spot/dings & imperfections. Most of the hull required two coats, sanding between and after before final finish of interlux perfection which was also rolled and tipped.The final finished looks very good even after two years.
With proper preparation, yes. You MUST read Interlux's detailed online directions. Pay special attention to reducer types and proportions, weather recommendations and application advice. Interlux might advise you to put rag soaked in reducer on gelcoat to assure applied primer doesn't soften gelcoat but it shouldn't. Wish you best.
Paint must be removed. With proper preparation, yes. You MUST read Interlux's detailed online directions. Pay special attention to reducer types and proportions, weather recommendations and application advice. Interlux might advise you to put rag soaked in reducer on gelcoat to assure applied primer doesn't soften gelcoat but it shouldn't. Wish you best.
Thank you Newton. I have an old Crealock 37 that has severe crazing over much of the deck going from the smooth parts into molded in nonskid which I cannot sand. I wonder if there is a paint on prep that could substitute for sanding the non-sandable nonskid?
Is there a way to determine if an existing topside paint (15 yrs old) is a two-part epoxy?
Topside two part paint is not epoxy based as it has poor UV resistance. Primers are epoxy based since they are covered by paint film in the final finish. Two part finish paints are all urethane based. Use some acetone in an inconspicuous location to see if the paint is softened by the solvent. Two part linear urethanes will be mostly unaffected.
It is more likely a single part Polyurethane or two part polyurethane. Epoxy paints are most always used as a primer only.
for refinishing cast iron tub?
You will want to check the Interlux website (there's consumer and professional side). If coating metal I recall that etching was first step for effective bonding. Be sure to use proper respiratory protection when/if painting inside of tub or working in enclosed space.Good luck!
What thinner do you recommend for this product?
Use the thinner recommended by Interlux, which is 2333N (I think). You can get the info from the spec sheet available at the Interlux website.
L DANIEL PARHAM III
Use interlude 2333 n for thinning
Just use the thinner for Perfection Plus linear urethane paint. The instructions are on the Primekote containers.
Do you have to tip the primer if you are rolling it on as and undercoat?
I did not, as you will sand it down when it dries. I would not wait too long however to sand, as I seem to recall it gets harder the longer it sits. I believe I sanded th e next day.
Thanks guys . . . I think I will roll and sand and save my tipping for the finish coat of Brightside.
This experience has me experimenting with different techniques. Since the prime coat is the foundation for your paint, it is at this time you will realize a " garbage in- garbage out" situation. Tipping with a brush did not work for us on primer. I had success with a 4" poly. roller. After developing some knack, this left me a consistent lightly textured finish that sanded out easily. You wont be able to get away without sanding. Found it easier to lightly sand the slight orange peel than cutting through brush marks. I used Ace Hardware Zinzer 1/4" nap poly rollers. I even had a separate tray of thinned out primer to finish roll to improve finish. May try the same on my last two coats of perfection this weekend. Good luck. Bob.
The primer drys quite hard, and so is some amount of work to sand. Also, it doesn't flow out real well when tipped. So, I found it easiest to roll and not tip - the orange peel texture left by the roller was easier to sand smooth than the brush marks from tipping.
You could...it would not hurt...it can get a little orange-peely if you don't
reducing instuctions are on the label. Not much help when ordering. I used a brush and as thick as this product is rolling would not be recommended. The product is great when you get it placed I am happy with the results.
Not tipping will leave a much rougher surface as this material does not self-flatten well. When sanding you will be removing much of your primer, so more coats will be needed. The time spent in tipping will be more than made up in the time spent in sanding and additional coats.
I roll then tip to reduce sanding between coats. Tipping leaves a finer finish. I have found that I can leave the raw surface with 120 grit before the first coat, then 220 after the first coat. After the 2nd coat I go with 320 or 400 before applying the top coats.
Take it of the marked
I followed the instructions, but soon realized that this product sucked. It behaved just like two-part topside paint, except it smelled worse: it sagged, it's transparent, it did not cover anything. I wouldn't even call it a primer. I was painting outside in a breeze and thought I could get away with saving money on the mask, but later I felt really sick. This is terrible stuff. The next day I had to use 60 grit on my palm sander to get all those runs sanded down. The paint doesn't stick to anything except itself, and it's rock hard. I bought three quarts of this product, and after using one quart I will now throw the rest as hazardous waste. Take it off the marked! Or rename it as stink-paint. This is not a primer.
I read, re-read and read again just about every review on the internet about this stuff.I made notes and charts about mixing ratios, application thicknesses...you name it.PREPARATION PAYS OFF WITH THIS!This was applied over 2 coats of CPES which is what Primekote was designed to be applied over, before applying Brightside.After CAREFULLY mixing the base and then the reactor and letting it go through its :20 minute induction, I thinned 25% with 2333N, per the instructions. It rolled on just beautifully. Very easy to apply with good coverage. I mixed up my first batch (about 1/2 quart) and proceeded to cut-in and paint. The entire job (on a 10' sailing dinghy) took right at about 1:15 minutes. By the time I finished, the first half of the boat was almost dry to the touch (at 80F/55% humidity).You MUST use a respirator with organic charcoal filters!!! The reactor component smells really weird, like rotting meat. When I opened the can, there was a weird slime around the rim of the can, as well as a chunk of what looked like something moldy. I had read something similar in another post, so I proceeded to mix anyway and then waited. Everything dried just fine and what was most surprising was that after an overnight cure, it sanded SO EASILY! It was almost like sanding chalk. The dust was a very fine powder that I had to continuously sweep away.After sanding the first coat, I swept, vacuumed and tacked off the boat and then gave it a quick wipe down with acetone. I taped off the boat and applied the second coat, which went on just as smoothly.My next step will be a few coats of Prekote (I had some extra). This will help cover some dimples where I have nails that I puttied over, and then finish up with a few coats of Brightside.I was very nervous, based on some reviews I had read, but went ahead anyway.This was very good stuff to use, and I would not hesitate to use it again.
Easy to apply with the right roller
Used Wizz black foam rollers and was able to achieve a really smooth finish with minimal bubbles and near zero lap marks. Sands to a smooth finish ready for top coat with minimal effort. You have to follow the directions though and focus on the standing time and thinning procedure before application.
Raritan Bay N.J.
Leave for pros
This product has poor self leveling properties. If you use a marine roller you end up with stippling like a truck bed liner. If you tip of with a brush you get brush strokes. These two finishes require a lot of sanding to get down to a smooth finish. Once you have removed 90% of product you have a good smooth surface. Product was thinned properly no difference. Product too expensive, money & time, for me to do multiple coats. Best to try something else.
Lots of sanding
Very poor self leveling properties (and yes I thinned as directed), that means if you are going to roll/tip your are going to spend many hours sanding back to get a smooth surface. For roll/tip apply 5-6 coats so there is enough thickness to sand out all the brush marks.
Did two coats on FB, pilothouse roof and cabin top on a 36' Roamer Riviera. Il said to sand with 220 and that was FOREVER. Went with 150 to getter done. Took almost 2 quarts for good coverage.
two rivers, wi.
Great product, but a few steps
Please be sure you have leveled the surface. This is a final step and goes on thin so is not a filling epoxy coat. You should put on first coat with a roller. Do not press too hard with the roller. Use a foam brush to get the tight areas first then Start rolling with a gap where you have previously painted and then blend back into the previous area. A separate clean foam brush is used to drag along the top of the rolled area to tip off the area. I found a brush, all brushes just leave too many brush marks that do not float out and need to be sanded. One more thing Plan on at least two coats. The primer is a bit transparent and any filler clearly shows thru even after two coats. I am expecting extra coats of perfection may be needed to overcoat. Most LPU paints should bond well to any sanded Epoxy surface as long as the Amine blush is gone. the Amine free epoxies are better but I would treat them the same, just in case the humidity rose during curing. Better safe than sorry. I would rather find problems with the PrimeKote than later with the Perfection surface. I used two coats of primer then used a guide coat and saw waves in the boats surface after long boarding. Filled and sanded again and had to re apply two more coats of primer. I would suggest using a thicker barrier coat, or epoxy with the use of a guide coat before the final prime. Now the bottom and freeboard is right. The waves were about 3 inches crest to crest. they were about 20 mils deep. A little too much for the PrimKote product. Used the 3m filler because it is what I had and it sanded out well. The WaterTight stuff is the same if not better. It has a little longer working time. Again the filler material shows thru the primer.
New Orleans, LA
I am priming the deck of a Columbia 34 after power washing and some sanding. The job is progressing well and I really like how the paint is going on.
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
Produced a mirror finish on my 16' comet class sailboat and made it look like a new boat, even though it was built in late 70s. Detailed, effective and easy to understand mixing and application instructions.
1st day - NO thinner. VERY VERY thick. 2nd day - worked terrific with thinner.WARNING - the fumes could "peel paint"!!! You must use a professional mask and gloves. MUST be used in open ventilated space. I can't emphasize enough!!