Maritime Teak Deck Caulk is a one-part, air curing, oxime silicone adhesive sealant specially formulated for caulking traditional boat teak decks. It has outstanding adhesion to teak and other naturally oily woods, and requires no primer when used as directed.
Maritime caulk stays permanently flexible to complement the expanding, contracting, and flexing of teak decking. It cures fast and is sandable in 24 hours. Applied correctly, there will be no air bubbles to create unsightly voids and gaps. Extremely high UV resistance for long life.
Available in Black, Grey, and White.
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10.3 oz. cartridge
20 oz. sausage pack
10.3 oz. cartridge
10.3 oz. cartridge
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Maritime Wood Products
Rate Of Cure:
whats the best product to use to lay down a new teak deck at glue new teak strips to a marine plywood sub floor?
I used this Maritime stuff to rebuild some teak hatches and bed the plexiglass and some teak planking on one of the hatches. It has worked really well, and I definitely recommend it. Be sure to mask everything! It gets all over the place, and though you can sand it, it's not so easy.
MALCOLM ST. CLAIR
I used this product to re seam between deck teak. Worked amazing. No more leaks
Will this stuff adhere to itself?
for refilling voids yes, sand and prep accordingly
Yes it will, I have repaired a few seams that opened up and after cleaning with acetone masked the seam off and caulked over two year old caulk. This is a great product.David M
We caulked the deck of a 42 foot sailboat. That cannot be done all at once. So we constantly had to startt where we had left off. The caulk adheres well to the previously applied caulk - even well cured older caulk.
Should Maritime DEck Caulk be used as adhesive between plywood deck and teak??
no, it's for the seams
I don't think I would try that. It meant only to fill the seams between teak planks. I don't if it would create a strong enough bond between the sub-deck and the teak. I think 3M 5200 or maybe 4200 would be a better fit for that job.
No . it is a seam compound not an adhesive
NO use something stronger like 5200 or sikaflex.
We just did a 45 foot sailboat deck and used good old traditional Dolphinite to bed the teak back down to the new deck. I dont believe plywood belongs ANYWHERE on a any boat personally so we used ash planks for the new deck and overlaid the old teak we cleaned up. Dolphinite is one part in a gallon, SO easy to use. Just scoop some out lay it down just as you would doing house tiles. It is totally waterproof, does not harden or crack. Works like magic and is WAY more economical. Epoxy bonding agents will cost you a fortune, are a total mess to use . We used this caulk for the seams and liked it way better than TDS or any other brand.
I'm considering using this for a small area of teak decking I have on my companionway top. Would like to use Cetol over it after re-caulking. Is this product compatible with Cetol or varnish?
I have used it for patching small areas on my teak deck and it is great. I would highly recommend it. I have never used cetal but it is fine with varnish.
Yes, Cetol is my choice of wood finish too.I used Maritime to do some repair patches on my teak cockpit and sliding hatch cover. I laid down masking tape long the cleaned seams and spreadthe Maritime material onto the deck with a putty knife. I removed the tape as it began to set up. The Maritime product sanded easily where needed.It has not reacted to Cetol or bleaching.
I never use cetol or varnish on my teak companionway top. I do use Cabot Australian Timber Oil(natural) once every six months for a beautiful and easy to apply finish. This has no effect on the deck caulk.
WILLIAM S MILLER
Yes. I did the same thing
I suggest reaching out to the manufacturer for actual compatability questions, they are very responsive. But I will say this caulk stays very flexible so from my perspective varnish is not a good match.. It will likely not adhere very long simply because of the dissimilar flexibility.I am very pleased with this product as a deck caulk.
I did not use the teak deck for a teak deck. I used it to fill gaps in a recycled floor. We did use a clear over and it has been OK.I would probably check with the manufacturer to specifically check the clear you are using.
Is it dark gray color and Where is your location?
We use the black kind. We are located in Minneapolis.greatnorthernboatworksdotcom
The caulk I use is black...I am not aware that they offer another color.I am up on Lake Superior. Bayfield, WI
Mine was essentially black. Looks great on teak deck and applies well.
The color is actually milk chocolate brown. I'm located in Dallas, TX
It's black. Just like photo
The deck calk is black & my boat is in San Pedro, Ca
Is this material appropriately used to caulk wooden topside seams? Topsides are long leaf yellow pine in a 62 year old boat and will be caulked first with cotton then a 'rubber' material over that.Topsides will then be painted with Interlux enamel paint. Thx
I used this product to re-caulk my teak cockpit seating on a Tayana 37.It was easy to apply and could be sanded as needed, to finish.The product maintains a rubber like feel when set up.
I use it for the seams on a teak deck and it works wonderful.
I have been very please with this product and continue to use it as I recaulk my teak deck, but I would suggest you reach out to Marinetime to verify it's adhesion to Yellow Pine.I would not see why not, but it is a more technical question than I can answer.I had a similar question about using the caulk to rebed windows into my Mahogany cabin top and they were very prompt in their response.Good luck,Reb
I am wanting to seal (no adhesive like 5200) my center console base to the deck of my boat. The surfaces are painted, the deck has a coarse surface. My objective is to create a thin smooth line of caulk around the base of the console. I'm not going to be able to do any sanding, because it will ruin the finish on the console & deck. Is this the right product for the job? The only way I know to clean the excess caulk would be to gently scrape it off, like a filleted joint. Will it remove cleanly & without staining the paint?
Hi JohnI used the caulk to fill the seams on a new deck for my 1939 schooner this spring and was very happy with it.You will have a few min. to fillet the bead into the curve you want and make it look great.Lew M.Bayfield, WI
REB B has a point - if it is just a weather seal you might consider the waterproof silicones in clear or white. I have used the 100% silicone GE Silicone II for sealing a 17' outdrive at the outside of the transom - so far 5 years with no issue. Surface prep is the same,alcohol works good - must be clean. Just a thought.Jeff
Use tape to mask your job. Remove the tape before the caulk sets up ASAP. You can experiment with how long to wait my guess as soon as you have the console in place. This should make removing excess a non event.
I used a number of tubes of the Maritime material to caulk the teak deck seams on my '59 Chris 35' Connie. I cleaned the reefed seams with isopropyl alcohol, let flash off for 15-30 minutes and used blue 3M tape tight to the edge of each side of the seams. I cut a slant in the caulk tube tip and filled the seams then pulled the tape. The stuff sticks great and, after cure, the excess can be removed from the seams with a razor blade. However, in your case, I would well clean the bonding surfaces with IPA and then mask the sides that you don't want caulk to adhere to. Then either decide to use the applicator tip to apply the bead (do some trials on a separate area to see if you can do a good job) or apply with applicator tip and follow up with a fillet blade such as a rounded corner of a yellow plastic blade or other. This approach might provide a better result. The fillet you smooth out should blend tight against your desired lines of tape. Pull the tape right after application before any cure begins. you might wish to get the thinner fine line tape for the edge next to the fillet to provide the smallest remaining ridge after pulling the tape. I can't answer whether it will stain the paint, so recommend the barrier tape idea - it really saved me time on the teak deck areas and eliminates cleanup of the adjacent area - wear gloves to keep the black off when pulling the tape.The Maritime should bond and last well if the area is well cleaned with the IPA. Best regards, Jeff
I don't think I would use this teak caulk for this application. First I have only used this on clean teak, so I am not sure how it would adhere to a painted surface; second, it is black stuff which will run the risk of staining whatever it touches...although it does clean up well with acetone if taken care of quickly. Tape off whatever you don't want this stuff touching.I would suggest reaching out to the manufacturer to get more details about the painted surface question.I do like this product and am going to use it to re-bed windows into my mahogany cabin top this winter, but it seems like there might be other products better suited for the project you described...maybe a less tenacious 3M caulk?
Hello, I've never attempted sanding caulk.Curious about orbital sandpaper buildup from sanding this product. I'm trying to resolve what I know about silicon, the fact that this caulk dries pliable, and the gunk I intuit would buildup from sanding. Also wondering if when sanding you've experienced tearing or ripping of the caulk?Thanks George
If you are working on boat with the 50s chris craft look and plan on varnishing over the caulk then don't use caulk....use DAP window glazing. Once it hardens then it sands down perfectly. Only use caulk if it is a real seal that will breath and then it should not be sanded. It should remain flexible.
DEREK M BEAULIEU
I have used this product for several years. The orbital approach creates too much heat and scores the finished product. Hand sanding with the grain works but is too much work. I have a tip if you want it. No sanding required. Pick a dry 70 degree day. Carefully apply blue painterÂ’Â¢??s tape on either side of the caulk line. Caulk the seam even with the top of the tape and drag a putty knife in line with the seam. Use lots of paper towel and trash bag to keep knife from building up too much excess. Only tape and caulk enough area to work about 15 min. and the tacky cure has past. Pull the tape (back not up) immediately after that period as the tape will come off the deck easily and the caulk will not mess up the wood area. I just moved around the deck alternating locations and planks so I could get to pulling the tape, staying off the fresh caulk overnight. Worked great. Let me know if you hear a better idea as I do periodic repairs as needed. The original product has lasted 8 years and I have not had to redo any of it.Good Luck,T
After Trial and Error I did find the best way to apply this caulk. You caulk it in higher than needed taking a little bit of care to not go to much outside the slot. Then take a sharp razor blade the next day and cut it flat as the surface. Then take an orbital sander at 80 grit and sand it. I then applied Sikens Cetol afterwards. Works like a charm!
George, I used Maritime Teak Deck Caulk on the teak decks on a traditional all teak sailboat that I rebuilt. Once the product cured I sanded with a random orbit sander and found that there was no noticeable buildup on the disks and no tear-out. I was very happy with the product and plan on using it on the decks of my Haven 12 1/2 this next winter.Jim
Hi George,My two cents on the sanding issue is make sure the caulk is DRY all the away through before you start. IF dry, then all you get is caulk dust which does not gunk up medium sandpaper. If the caulk is still curing (48 hours or so) then you can tear the surface open, which I have done, and am going to repair this weekend . A possible second consequence to sanding is to pull the caulk away from the teak which is annoying and requires digging out the gap and caulking all over again.CheersToby
Richard L is right on regarding the technique for seams. I did the same process on my '59 35ft Chris Connie teak deck seams - works beautifully - the Maritime is a great product. Tape both sides and then need to clean the seams with alcohol (I used a cut off chip brush to get into the seam), flash off for 15-30 minutes then apply the caulk. Yup - gloves and rags required. Pulling the tape back low and at an angle to the seam is correct. After cure I used a new single edge razor blade to trim the caulk surface even with the teak deck - looks beautiful!Best regards, Jeff
George, we have had no issues sanding Maritime Teak Deck Caulk. We usually start with 80 grit, depending on how rough it is, and finish with 150 grit. Have it on 2 different boats.
Is this caulk paintable?
This caulk is a one part silicone adhesive and it is tinted black already. Not sure why you would want or need to paint deck caulk but I have never seen a silicone caulk that is paintable and covering black is always problematic. I would not suggest it. However you could phone the company they are very helpful with questions. The contact number on the tube is (in the US) 1-772-287-2919.
We haven't used it yet, but our wooden boat restorer says it is. He highly recommended it. We plan on using for our decks, which are painted.
Have used this for my teak deck but never painted over it. The stuff is very easy to work with and looks like a good product for deck seams.
While I have used this product to caulk the seams on my teak deck and coverboards, I have not applied any paint over it. Being a silicone based caulk, I would think paint would not adhear very well.
I have used this product many times to seal teak deck
Proper prep work of teak seams is key. This applies smoothly and cures by next day. Watch Jamestown video
South East Alaska
White seams in redoing a mahogany deck on a 1965 Century Resorter .
Morgantown , WV
No bubbles - comes out very smooth.
Old Saybrook, CT
Bought 3 more
No bubbles. Comes out smooth - skins over fast. Much better than other products I have used.
Old Saybrook, CT
This product exceeded my expectations.
I used the caulk for weather proof gap filling.
performs as advertized
I use the product to veneer exotic woods to a few different substrates and it is easier to position the trim than some polyurethane adhesives i have used,it stays flexible, but is not as strong.
Having worked on yachts for 40 years, I have tried many deck caulks. Maritime is far better than all others I have used. VERY EASY to prep, apply, and sand. OUTSTANDING adhesion to teak, gelcoat and stainless steel. Forget using primers in the groove or mixing products. Do not use beyond 12 month shelf life (I tried).
Teak deck seam. Dries completely in 24H. Left over in tube ready to be used.
Corpus Christi, TX
Easy to use and looks like a Pro did it.
Wow! This stuff is great! Once the old caulk has been removed (which is the most time consuming part) the application goes fast smooth and easy. What a great product, you can get a professional job with a putty knife, a caulking gun and a low skill set. Anyone wanting to renew that old teak deck, well this is your answer to making it look like you just had it replace with a new one.
Black Watch Sailing Charters , DFW TX
This one works
This truly is a caulk that when applied correctly does stick to teak deck seams. If you seal the nozzle after use you can still use it weeks later, the product also has a very long shelf life, does not go hard in the tube! This product really works.