Interlux Interstain is both a wood filler and stain to serve two purposes: it fills the grain of the wood, and stains the wood to enhance its natural beauty.
Filling the wood reduces the number of varnish coats required. Available in Brown Mahogany, Red Mahogany, and Chris Craft Red Mahogany. Interstain can also be used to tint Interlux varnishes.
Out of the package, this product has a thick paste consistency and should be mixed with Interlux Brushing Liquid 333 to the consistency of thick house paint.
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APPLICATION AND USE
BARE WOOD: Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Sand smooth. Sanding
Some Important Points If Interstain is not thoroughly dry before overcoating with varnish, the filler will "lift" from the grain and the stain will be apparent on the varnish brush. Product temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 29 deg C/85 deg F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 35 deg C/95 deg F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10 deg C/50 deg F and maximum 29 deg C/85 deg F.
Compatibility/Substrates Apply to clean, dry, properly prepared surfaces only. Do not overcoat directly with unthinned epoxy resin.
Number of Coats As required
Coverage (Theoretical) - 0 (sq ft/Gal)
Application Methods Brush
Color Y42-Brown Mahogany, Y1579-Red Mahogany, Y573-CC Red Mahogany
TRANSPORTATION: Interstain should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage.
STORAGE: Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Interstain to be realised ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5 deg C/40 deg F and 35 deg C/95 deg F. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Safety DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to harden before disposal.
Remainders of Interstain cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit. Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities.
What is the difference between the 573 Cris Craft Red Mahogony and the 579 Red Mahogony? Is one more of a Dark Red?
We have 42 brown Mahogany and 1579 red Mahogany which we use to stain veneer panels for woodie automobiles. We found the 1579 red mahogany to be too red for our use and the brown mahogany just right. Am not familiar with the 573 Cris Craft red.
The 573 is the proper color for Chris-Craft boats. It used to be called XP573. The name has changed, but the color is the same.
My guess is, it depends on the year the boat was produced. And WHO is commentating as the oficial word! My take is the color that pleases you Is the a correct color? And who produces it, could be a tossup. Look at as many boats as you can for color, and you will find that that is the number of OFFICAL COLORS that there is. In any event all the top stain producers make good stuff, find the one YOU like and have at it.
Can Interlux Wood Filler Stain be tinted darker, and how?
yes I usually put some wood filler in an small plastic container then add some interlux stain and some 333 thinning agent and mix thoroughly.
RICHARD DE BOER
I need to get down to my shop to look at the dye I used. I'll try to get back to you in a few days.Greg
The only way I know you can change the color is to mix another Interlux Wood Filler Stain of a different color. Perhaps mix a little bit of a darker colored stain with the brown. You could experiment with different proportions until you found a suitable color. I mixed the Chris Craft Mahogany stain with this Brown stain because I want to mute the redness of the Mahogany. This worked very well for me.
WILLIAM J CONLEY
Hi Tom,I found the info on the stain. It is the W.D. Lockwood & Co. They make wood stain powder. I hope this helps. Make sure it is compatible with filler stain. Call them, they are very helpful. Let me know how it goes. good luck
I did indeed purchase Interlux wood filler stain, but ended up using a different product. I suppose you could experiment with some dyes to make the Interlux darker. If you are interested, I can send you some info on wood stain dyes. Feel free to contact me.
Yes, I mixed the red and brown mahogany stains to get the color that I was looking for while restoring a 1941 Barrelback Chris. I also used Smith's Penetrating epoxy prior to applying the stain. Dan Danenberg is a great source for this.
Hi Gregory.Thanks for the info. That would be great if you could send me some info on the wood stain dyes. I'm not hung up on Interlux, but was told it is the best. I for sure need to darken whatever red mahagony filler stain I use. Tom
I have a 57 Chris Craft. Will this fill the cracks between the planks?
No, I don't think this is what you want for that. It will help fill tiny variations in the grain and reduce the number of varnish coats before you'll get a level gloss, but it's not really designed for large gaps.
My Chris-Craft is a 1949. There are no cracks between the planks on my boat. The planks are five inches wide on the deck. Each plank has three sawn groves about a eighth of an inch wide. When the planks are butted against each other and fastened to the supporting deck beams underneath, they look like planks 1 5/8 inch wide with an eighth inch white stripe or line between each of the planks.I use Pettit boot top white paint and mask the white lines. That is done after the deck is sanded smooth, stained with the Interlux Wood Filler stain, and then several coats of Pettit 2056 Varnish applied, hand sanded with 220 sandpaper between coats.It sounds like you may be wanting to fill the sawn grooves up to the level of the thickness of the plank and not have white lines at all. If that is the case, I would use wood filler, like putty, rather than the filler stain. The stain will easily fill the grain in the mahogany but eighth inch grooves are much larger than the grain. Let the wood filler harden, sand everything well, add the Wood Filler stain, and proceed as described above.I hope that helps.
ROBERT ORR JR
I do not think this product is made for filling gaps between planks. This is a heavy body stain designed to fill the open grain of Mahogany and other open grained woods. This allows the finished layers of varnish to lay flat and smooth and not sink into the open grain of the mahogany. The gaps between planks are too wide and deep for this product. I would talk to customer service at J. D. and tell them what you are wanting to do. They should be able to tell you what product to use for this. Ask them if one of the polyurethane caulks by 3M or Sika would be suitable for this. John M
Where can I see your color samples on line?
You have to wing it
Hello, Jason,Not being affiliated with Jamestown, I cannot answer your question. Since I bought my 1949 Chris-Craft in 1975, the only wood filler stain I have ever used has been Interlux and only the color designation on the can has been, appropriately enough, "Chris-Craft Mahogany".My suggestion is to search anywhere on line for Chris-Craft classic boats and you will see what that color looks like.
ROBERT ORR JR
How many pints of filler stain would I need for a 17' century resorter?
A single pint should be more than enough.
ROBERT ORR JR
One should be great plenty.I did my 18' Glen- L gentleman's cruiser using 2/3 pint.
Looking at some Google images, it seems to be a similar size and layout to my 18 foot Chris Craft Riviera. So, one pint would be more than enough. By two or three times. You will have plenty.
One should be great plenty.I did my 18' Glen- L gentleman's cruiser using 2/3 pint.
I used not even an entire pint on both sides of a new Mahogany front door six feet tall. Otherwise, I'm sorry to not be able to comment on your question. I will say however, that I loved this product, as it has a deep rich tone, and was very effective when used as they suggest.
What do I use to thin?
Read the can it usually says, I used it as made, worked well
I'm restoring a 1941 Chris Craft Deluxe runabout. Just sanded down the < a href="http://transom...should" target="_blank">transom...should< /a> I use 1579 or 573 stain?
I'm not familiar with "41: Chris Craft Runabout. I used 1579 (red Mahogany) on restoration of of mahogany consoles and seats in 1970 Boston Whaler. Applied 1579 after striping old finish, light sanding and bleaching. my experience with 1579 was favorable, restored surfaces to original tone and after varnishing was as good or better than original factory finish. Filler stain left surface pores filled flush with surface. I have no experience with 573.
I have learned that the older Chris Crafts used a darker brown stain, and the more recent Chris Crafts used a redder (looks orange to me) stain.
I have a cutlas chris craft that have been stained before, Can I stained over it or I have to remove the old stain first?
Juan Carlos Torres
I would say that if you want it to look decent you will have to go back to bare wood
To do any stain job right you should sand down to bare wood before re-staining. One would presume that there was a sealer like varnish applied over the previously stained surface? If so, the stain won't penetrate through that. Sanding to bare wood will allow the new stain to penetrate the wood grain more fully. Putting new stain over the old will result in a darker color overall and a blotchy appearance in areas where the old stain is lighter or non existent.
I am refurbishing a 1948 Chris Craft. I have stripped all the bright work to bare wood using a heat gun and scraper. I then removed all elements of previous staining material and miscellaneous varnish. To make the bare wood more consitant in color (especially new bungs) I applied a two part bleach followed by the new stain, wood filler and finally 8 to 10 coats of varnsh.
In my opinion attempting to remove old stain on anything other than a very small area would be a very big job. In any event after all these years the is basically no chance of the bare wood being of a consistent shade anyway. The best way to use this product is to wipe in on with a rag let it set up for a while and then rub it off until you achieve a close matching shade. The darker you want the finish the longer you need to it to dry before and wipe it off gently, rub harder for a light shade. If you look at any vintage Chris Craft you will see color variations in the wood finish, that's part of the charm. An old friend of mine once told me "if it looks great from the dock when it goes by, you got it right".
I don't see a problem with that approach but, check the Interlux website regarding Interstain.
I am building a small rowboat from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft of Annapolis, MD. I have modified the plans to include more mahogany trim on the outwales and inwales and on the seats. However, the seats themselves are made of Baltic Beech plywood. I tried a Minwax red mahogany stain on a sample of the plywood and the result was very, very dark. I am looking at two alternatives for the stain: one is a Minwax oil-based stain (Colonial Maple looks as close to the natural mahogany that I have on the boat); the other option is your Brown Mahogany Wood Filler Stain. I have looked at your color charts on the internet, but cannot determine how dark/light the brown mahogany stain is. Can you tell me how dark it would be on light plywood? Can you also tell me if the Minwax oil-based stain would work under the Interlux Interprime Wood Sealer? Thank you. Jim Van Laninghamj
How dark is dark? Walnut dark or?? The Interlux filler stain is fairly dark (Not quite walnut however) And it has the red in it. Look at pictures of post war Chris Crafts (Sportsman, Continental Etc) from the '50's and '60's ) that's the color you will get when put over mahogany. I'm not sure about Minwax products but, if you are putting oil based over oil based it should not be a problem.
Baltic birch or Baltic beech? Either way, I would always do a sample. Stain on birch can be quite blotchy (beech less so). One can lessen that effect by first brushing on a 4:1 or 5:1 alcohol thinned shellac onto the raw wood. Then stain. For the gentleman's racer runabout I constructed, I used Chris Craft red. It is very red, as were those years of Chris Craft boats. It works fine with the sealer. Be sure to let the stain set for several days before attempting to apply the sealer, otherwise it may lift or dilute into the sealer, interacting with the sealer solvents. Also, thin the sealer to drive it into the wood bit more.
I used this stain filler, I liked the product, I think the minwax will be fine underneath, but if it is already too dark, this product will not lighten it up.I was staining stripped and sanded Mahogany...you can see the color on my blog. add http and blogspot1956runaboutrebuildgood luckDonovan
Foerget the minwax products altogether. Pick up the phone and talk to a Customer service Rep. at Jamestown Distributors. If you want it to look it's best - these people are the professionals-the best in the business!I restored a 1958 Dunphy and EVERYTHING they recommended, that I use worked perfectly. Products met and exceeded my expectation.Stop trying to do it yourself --- ask the pros
I did get some of the wood filler stain last year. I didn't get the brushing liquid, as it was very expensive to ship. I thinned it with some other stuff. It is going to cover the wood with a red color, and you will lose any grain that might be there. Mine is a nice red mahogany color, and it does fill in wood imperfections, but it is solid. I don't recall getting to choose between brown and red. Maybe you are getting a different color than I ordered.Steve
I would suggest you test different stains and stain blends on small offcuts. There is really no way to tell for sure otherwise, and you may need to mix different stains to achieve the result you want. This product is a paste stain for staining the mahogany wood and filling its pores. Baltic birch is relatively nonporous compared to mahogany, the two woods will always look somewhat different regardless of color.
I tried to use a Minwax red mahogany oil based stain on Baltic beech plywood and got a very dark maroon result. Would the interlux brown mahogany stain on Baltic Beech plywood give me a color that is closer to unstained varnished mahogany?Jim V.
Jim Van Laningham
In my opinion, on a boat, there is no substitute for the "real" wood. Due to the way it is made, plywood is the most difficult product to match colors with stains. There are many different species of mahogany, from around the world. In fact, I think the term mahogany is almost generic. I use this stain on a Classic Chris Craft which has had pieces replaced over the years, some by folks that knew what they were doing and some that did not. Unstained varnished mahogany varies in color from a light brown to a darker brown, depending on its country of origin and the age of the tree. Therefore, applying a stain, which has a consistent shade, becomes a challenge. The Chris has some original factory stain left, which I have preserved, over the years it has changed tones, now that is a light tone of reddish brown. That's what I try to match. The way I do that is by applying light coats of this stain, with a rag, letting it set up for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the temperature, then rubbing it off. Most time it takes several applications and rubbings to get it to match the surrounding wood color, it's all by eye. It takes work but when it's done it looks great.
I am not familiar with this type of plywood however, I would recomend this stain for your desired results. This stain comes as a paste, not a liquid so by using a thinner you can mix the product to your desired color and consistency. For best results, I recomend applying with a fine steel wool, light coats, staying with the grain, until desired results are achieved. By using this method, you are filling in any surface imperfections while enhancing the grain pattern in the wood as well as buffing the surface at the same time. Hope this was helpful and good luck. J.T.
Not sure what the brown would do. I use the red to get the Chris Craft color. The Minwax Red mahogany doesn't give a true color. I have used the brown in the past on Mahogany to get the brown color on my 1970 Chris Craft, That worked well. Not sure what Beech will look like when stained.Regards,Bob
You will probably get the same result.
Yes, I think it would. The thing is the Interlux filler stain has pigment like paint in it, so it only gets so dark and no more, unlike minwax which is more like ink than paint.
Jim, I am not sure. However, google Don Dannenburg's website. He wrote two books on old boat restoration and he has a whole chapter on varnishing and stain. His Forum is free and there is alot of godd info available. Best of luck. Sparty On!!
You cant get the surfacing putty anymore to fill holes, so I had to fill with epoxy and of course was concerned that when it came time to use the 1579 filler/stain it would not work. To my delight both the mahogany wood and the places where I used epoxy stained identically....Yahoooo
Very easy to use
This product worked perfectly on my mahogany brightwork. The small can will cover a surprisingly large area when thinned with the recommended thinner. The stain is brushed on and then wiped off with a rag (you'll need lots of rags). The color produced is very consistent without any streaking or blotchiness. Fool proof IMO. I used a variety of mahogany stock on my boat, and this product made it look like it all came from the same tree.
Great product from a dependable company
Used on my 1962 Grady White. Used in several applications to get desired color.
Long Branch, NJ
Refinishing mahogany trim
I stripped the hatches and other trim components on my 1953 Hinckley. Thought about using a common household product until I noticed it wasn't for external use. Did a little research and purchased this product based on recommendations. It sealed nicely in one coat, and left a really smooth and nicely colored surface to start the varnish build-up which has gone very well.
Great stain fills the Mohag pores, The color is redish brown not red Must use the 0333 thinner
Great filler & stain rolled into one!
A little goes a long way! Follow the directions on the can! You can thin this product down to meet your needs. If you want more filling qualities, use less thinner. If you want more of a stain, use more thinner. I used the "Brown Mahogany" stain on bare teak. When you first apply it, it looks like a warm red but by the time you work it into the grain and wipe off the excess, the color tones down a bit. When it's dry, you can even out any imperfections with Interlux Brush Thinner 333 and a piece of cheesecloth. I finished off the project with "Interlux Satin Varnish" and it toned down the color even more, bringing out more of the warm amber of the teak, creating a very close match to the surrounding wood on our boat. "Interstain" is very forgiving to use and has excellent filling qualities for small imperfections in the wood.