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Fiberglass 6 inch Biaxial Tape is E-glass Biaxial (+/-45) Cloth tape with 3/4 oz mat backing. Tape is held together by light stitching. Flat non-crimped fibers yield reduced print-thru and higher stiffness than woven fabrics. Biaxial tape is ideal for repairs, tabbing, and reinforcing.
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Is there a sewed edge on the biaxial tape like the is in the standard e glass cloth tape?
I need to build up 1/4 inch of solid glass. How many layers of this will it take?
I think 5 to 8 layers
Very informative. Thanks!
With the pox he probably 2 to 3 layers
Find the manufacturer's product specification page for your biax at the Jamestown website. It will indicate the thickness you can expect to get from one ply of the material. You will also find the resin to fabric ratio which you should use as a guideline for how much resin to expect to use. That will help you determine how much to work the fabric and resin so that you don't end up too resin rich. There will probably be specs for both vacuum bagging and non-bagged lay-ups. Divide your quarter inch final thickness by the thickness per ply to determine the total number of plies required. If you're laying up without vacuum bagging, you can expect to have some excess resin in the lay up and you will use fewer plies than you calculated - maybe just 70-80%. On this chance, I usually leave the last few plies marked out but not cut out until I know that I need them so that I don't waste any material.Good luck.
can you use this with epoxy ?
Heavy duty and I bought to repair tabbing I used with mas epoxy take time and material to saturate cloth make sure it has the translucent look to it to know it has full saturation again this is a heavy cloth
Yes, absolutely, that is the intended purpose.
L DANIEL PARHAM III
I have used it with epoxy, suggest read glass and epoxy manufacturers instructions before use.
Do you have Biaxial Cloth more than twelve inches wide?Asking: Reynold Belmar
Sorry I haven't used it yet
Does the mat part go down or the stitch part, or does it make a difference? Thanks, Russ
Usually the mat part would go down first.
I'll agree with Robert W. I'd always just used stitched side down, out of habit, and hadn't considered stitched side up. Robert makes a valid point.Jim
Structurally, it shouldn't make a significant difference.However, I'd suggest the stitched side should be down, if will be covering it with more fabric, and are concerned with good adhesion. The stitched side should be up, if you are concerned with a fair surface, which will not be covered with another layer of fabric.Hope this helps,Jim
Please be aware I'm not an expert and have just used this product once.Having said that, as I understood the mat job is to provide bulk for rigidity, not strength. The woven side should face out.There is a number of excellent how-to videos and tutorials available online on the topic of FRP fabrication.Hope this helps,
Mat side down/stitch side up. The other way can end up in a real mess as the mat will clump while you are trying to get the biax to wet out.
Which side goes down on the 1708mat, the stitch side or the mat side or does it make a difference?
depends on the finish mat out for sanding and smooth finish, mat in for better bonding such as in bilges in boats.
If we're talking about sheathing wood with it, I would apply it with the woven side down, so that the long fibers lie across the joints wherever possible. The idea is to reinforce seams in construction from flexing & breaking apart, so keep this in mind when using. Good luck!
My understanding you would use the matting to add bulk therefore it should be the sandwich layer. Google and you'll see many instruction videos on YouTube please don't rely on my advice alone I'm not a pro. Hope this helps.
I was taught to put the mat side down. gary
Tape easier to hanle than cloth
I had a fiberglass repair job where strength was required. I'm a novice and decided on the 1708 after seeing a repair done on an internet video sharing website. I'm glad I picked the product, it is easy to handle and by it's biaxial design conforms easily to compound curved surfaces.
Easy to work with
I'm a novice when it comes to fiberglass work. I've read some books by Don Casey and decided to go ahead and replace the settee plywood in my sailboat. The back edge of the plywood was tabbed to the hull. Removing the old wood and fiberglass was messy, glassing in the new piece was very easy. I was amazed at how well the biaxial cloth and mat smoothed out so nice and made my work look like a pro had done it, well almost. I used polyester resin and added about 4 drops of catlyst per ounce. It took a few hours to cure, but I wasn't in a hurry. I've gained confidence to attack the other settee now.
Lake Bridgeport, TX
Good for repairs
I have used biaxial E glass to rebuild floors and mast step area in my sailboat. The cloth was easy to work with, wet out well, and followed curves.
I used this tape with west system epoxy, it set up very well and is quite stiff. I suspect polyester resin is the preferred material though because the mat backing didn't turn clear.