4" E-glass Biaxial (+/-45) Fiberglass cloth tape with 3/4 oz mat backing. Use biaxial fiberglass tape and cloth to add reinforcement to a fillet or a joint. It becomes part of the hull structure and is easily contourable. Butt join plywood sheets and many other uses. A roll is 4 inches wide by 90 yards.
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is it best to wet out surface or cloth first to avoid a bubble going around coaming edge?
Hi Jim, it doesn't really matter which one you wet out first. You want to apply some resin to where the cloth tape will go, and wet out both sides of the cloth itself before you apply it, then using a roller or spreader, work any air bubbles out of it. If possible, using the vacuum bag method also helps remove any air bubbles or voids if that is a major concern for your project.
JD Tech Associate
Is this fabric compatible with epoxy resin?
JD Tech Team
Is this tape made from DBM1208 or DBM 1708. I'm assuming 1708 since it mentions 17oz, but I want to be quite certain. Thanks.
It's 1708 cloth.
JD Tech Team
I used biaxial tape for my first homebuilt boat. The tape had strands of what I think was cotton thread to hold it together. The threads left high ridges that were nearly impossible to get rid of other than substantial filler over the joint. Is there a type of biax tape that does not have this?
I used this tape extensively in the building of a 19' wood-epoxy boat. I did not have the thread problem you mention, but the tape is relatively thick and you must use care to fully saturate it with resin. You can eliminate a lot of sanding with careful use of release fabric, but for a fully finished surface you will still need to use filler, especially at the edges of the tape. Hope this is helpful.
Thanks, Donald. Other than those pesky threads, it is thinner than the "regular" woven tape that I have also used. Easy to fully saturate, but frayed a lt at the edges. Haven't tried release fabric before, will investigate.
I have not experienced this issue. Difference may be that I vacuum bagged in my application. Not a smooth finish but that is because of the thickness of the tape and the amount of resin required. I never attempted to finish or smooth in this application. Later this week I am using this tape to build up (bond) the hull and deck joint on a vintage FG Viking 33. I may opt to only peel ply and not vacuum bag the joint. I need it somewhat smooth to reduce labor sanding and finishing. My guess is that peel ply should help smooth down this tape.
I have not seen a biaxial glass that does not have that weave of thread. I just had the exact same happen on some supports I did,I sanded it as good as I could,then gelcoated it,sanded it again and gelcoated once more and it was fine. you could do filler as well.but I'm not a big fan of fillers.Its quite possible that there is a tape that doesnt have those threads.or possibly a better quality tape might have a tighter sewing? Good luck.
If properly laid, the small thread that holds it together should not have caused any issues. And when laying glass by hand, there always seems like theres one strand that sticks out from a cut (any cloth) that just doesn't lay right and you have to grind before the next layer. I used this Biaxial tape you referred to with no issues. Built an entire console out of it and was really happy with it.
I don't think you put enough resin on it when you applied it.
I believe the one for a final coat you looking for is not a biaxial type tape. It is a chopped strand tape. That is the one used for a "less evident," final look.
I need some 3-4 oz fiberglass strips to edge the hatches on a strip-wood kayak I'm making. I've bought fiberglass tape before that has a hard ridge on the edges. Will any of this tape work, or should I just get cloth and trim the edges? Thanks
3-4 oz fiberglass cloth is pretty thin, generally the thicker the cloth the more likely it is to leave an edge. But even with a thick cloth there is some practice involved oozing it around in the resin to make the edge as smooth as possible. It is messy and starts to cure faster than you think (get hard), go through the extra effort to practice on something else. Biaxial has a different weave and reacts differently to manipulation, the threads along the edges have a different trim. Experiment with regular and biaxial fiberglass weaves to see the nuances, but in short yes, biaxial will work, even if thicker, if you are patient.
I found the tape to be much easier to use than cut strips. With the cut strips things quickly turned into a mess of stands that came off and bunched up as I was working the material, while the biaxial strips stayed clean. I did not find the edges of the tape to be hard or behave any different than the middle, so my vote would be the tape.
fiberglas tapr works much better than cutting strips due to the unraveling of the cut pieces. the tape has sewn edges and does not unravel...
This is an excellent product... It consists of +/-45 biaxial cloth stitched to CSM. It is ideal for tabbing in bulkheads and very easy to work with compared to woven cloth. As far as I am concerned, there is no raised [woven] edge as with conventional tape. However, this material is much heavier, total weight 25 oz/sq yd, than what you specified. It is more oriented to structural rather than finish work. So, it might not be the right choice for your application.
I have used the Biaxil cloth tape with great sucess. I highly reccomend it for your needs. It is thick and structually strong. Use a quality resin and don't over activate it. Hope this helps
the bi-ax is stronger than straight cloth and if you get the tape w/ the matt attached it will adhere better than just cloth. the seamed edge of the tape will make a neater edge ( nice stright line) than cloth cut w/ sissors that will unravel some no matter how neat you try to be.Capt Larry Pentel
3 layers of "glass at once
Because it's three layers, it's not as easy as a cloth to wet out, but it does wet out well, but not clear. Good for reinforcing corners.
Really heavy duty
We used this when replacing the floor in a 1970's fiberglass boat. Gave very good support along the edges.
Thick and strong
Most of the bulkheads in the 23 foot sailboat I bought were completely rotted through. I used this cloth to tab the bulkheads back in. It is very thick and I feel that it only needs one layer. It conforms very well to the contours of the hull, usually only needing one cut to lay completely flat. It is easy to wet out. I filleted with collodial silica before laying the glass down. On the second bulkhead I put down the fillets and the fiberglass at the same time to save myself some tedious sanding work.
Perfect for fiberglass repairs
I like this Biax tape for boat fixes and upgrades. Tape is easier to work with than cloth (less cutting) for smaller repairs. It does a good job for reinforcing panels and tabbing bulkheads. I prefer epoxy for the strongest bonding.