4" E-glass Biaxial (+/-45) Fiberglass cloth tape with 3/4 oz mat backing. Use biaxial fiberglass tape and cloth to add reinforcement to a fillet or a joint. It becomes part of the hull structure and is easily contourable. Butt join plywood sheets and many other uses. A roll is 4 inches wide by 90 yards.
I used biaxial tape for my first homebuilt boat. The tape had strands of what I think was cotton thread to hold it together. The threads left high ridges that were nearly impossible to get rid of other than substantial filler over the joint. Is there a type of biax tape that does not have this?
I used this tape extensively in the building of a 19' wood-epoxy boat. I did not have the thread problem you mention, but the tape is relatively thick and you must use care to fully saturate it with resin. You can eliminate a lot of sanding with careful use of release fabric, but for a fully finished surface you will still need to use filler, especially at the edges of the tape. Hope this is helpful.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by DONALD STOVER from undisclosed
A:
Thanks, Donald. Other than those pesky threads, it is thinner than the "regular" woven tape that I have also used. Easy to fully saturate, but frayed a lt at the edges. Haven't tried release fabric before, will investigate.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by Sandy Milliken from undisclosed
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I have not experienced this issue. Difference may be that I vacuum bagged in my application. Not a smooth finish but that is because of the thickness of the tape and the amount of resin required. I never attempted to finish or smooth in this application. Later this week I am using this tape to build up (bond) the hull and deck joint on a vintage FG Viking 33. I may opt to only peel ply and not vacuum bag the joint. I need it somewhat smooth to reduce labor sanding and finishing. My guess is that peel ply should help smooth down this tape.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by RICHARD POTCOVA from undisclosed
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I have not seen a biaxial glass that does not have that weave of thread. I just had the exact same happen on some supports I did,I sanded it as good as I could,then gelcoated it,sanded it again and gelcoated once more and it was fine. you could do filler as well.but I'm not a big fan of fillers.Its quite possible that there is a tape that doesnt have those threads.or possibly a better quality tape might have a tighter sewing? Good luck.
Answered on 5/6/2015 by STEVEN VASSALLO from undisclosed
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I don't think you put enough resin on it when you applied it.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by GERALD CONNER from undisclosed
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I believe the one for a final coat you looking for is not a biaxial type tape. It is a chopped strand tape. That is the one used for a "less evident," final look.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by ANDREY ALPEYEV from undisclosed
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If properly laid, the small thread that holds it together should not have caused any issues. And when laying glass by hand, there always seems like theres one strand that sticks out from a cut (any cloth) that just doesn't lay right and you have to grind before the next layer. I used this Biaxial tape you referred to with no issues. Built an entire console out of it and was really happy with it.
Answered on 5/5/2015 by TOBIN STRICKLAND from undisclosed
Q:
I need some 3-4 oz fiberglass strips to edge the hatches on a strip-wood kayak I'm making. I've bought fiberglass tape before that has a hard ridge on the edges. Will any of this tape work, or should I just get cloth and trim the edges? Thanks
I have used the Biaxil cloth tape with great sucess. I highly reccomend it for your needs. It is thick and structually strong. Use a quality resin and don't over activate it. Hope this helps
Answered on 7/12/2012 by GREGORY VODDE from undisclosed
A:
the bi-ax is stronger than straight cloth and if you get the tape w/ the matt attached it will adhere better than just cloth. the seamed edge of the tape will make a neater edge ( nice stright line) than cloth cut w/ sissors that will unravel some no matter how neat you try to be.
Capt Larry Pentel
Answered on 7/13/2012 by LAURANCE PENTEL from undisclosed
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This is an excellent product... It consists of +/-45 biaxial cloth stitched to CSM. It is ideal for tabbing in bulkheads and very easy to work with compared to woven cloth. As far as I am concerned, there is no raised [woven] edge as with conventional tape.
However, this material is much heavier, total weight 25 oz/sq yd, than what you specified. It is more oriented to structural rather than finish work. So, it might not be the right choice for your application.
Answered on 7/13/2012 by ANDREW RITCHIE from undisclosed
A:
3-4 oz fiberglass cloth is pretty thin, generally the thicker the cloth the more likely it is to leave an edge. But even with a thick cloth there is some practice involved oozing it around in the resin to make the edge as smooth as possible. It is messy and starts to cure faster than you think (get hard), go through the extra effort to practice on something else. Biaxial has a different weave and reacts differently to manipulation, the threads along the edges have a different trim. Experiment with regular and biaxial fiberglass weaves to see the nuances, but in short yes, biaxial will work, even if thicker, if you are patient.
Answered on 7/12/2012 by LINDA PROCTOR from undisclosed
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I found the tape to be much easier to use than cut strips. With the cut strips things quickly turned into a mess of stands that came off and bunched up as I was working the material, while the biaxial strips stayed clean. I did not find the edges of the tape to be hard or behave any different than the middle, so my vote would be the tape.
Answered on 7/12/2012 by EDWARD KREBS from undisclosed
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fiberglas tapr works much better than cutting strips due to the unraveling of the cut pieces. the tape has sewn edges and does not unravel...
Answered on 7/12/2012 by RODGER HANKS from undisclosed
Most of the bulkheads in the 23 foot sailboat I bought were completely rotted through. I used this cloth to tab the bulkheads back in. It is very thick and I feel that it only needs one layer. It conforms very well to the contours of the hull, usually only needing one cut to lay completely flat. It is easy to wet out. I filleted with collodial silica before laying the glass down.
On the second bulkhead I put down the fillets and the fiberglass at the same time to save myself some tedious sanding work.
I like this Biax tape for boat fixes and upgrades. Tape is easier to work with than cloth (less cutting) for smaller repairs. It does a good job for reinforcing panels and tabbing bulkheads. I prefer epoxy for the strongest bonding.
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