System Three T88 epoxy is a high performance structural adhesive resin for wood, metal, concrete, marble and most rigid surfaces. This waterproof, non-brittle, two-part epoxy adhesive is designed to provide superior results under adverse conditions.
T88 may be used without modification in normally fitted joints, and will cure in any thickness without shrinkage. It is a clear amber and becomes virtually invisible when varnished. This epoxy exhibits outstanding adhesion and permanence on a wide variety of materials, and is endorsed by leading designers, builders, and organizations.
Working time is one hour, Tack-free in 4-6 hours. Tensile strength 7,000 psi. T88 is often used as a very strong woodworking glue.
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T-88 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Viscosity at 77 deg F: 9000-11000 cps
Specific Gravity: 1.10-1.12
Viscosity at 77 deg F: 8000-10000 cps
Specific Gravity: 0.95-0.97
Mixed System Properties:
Mix ratio by weight resin/hardener: 100/83
Mix ratio by volume resin/hardener: 100/100
Pot Life at 77 deg F: 40-60 minutes
Full Cure at 77 deg F: 4-6 hours
Coverage: 80 square ft/gal
Maximum Service Temperature: 160 deg F
Typical Cured Properties:
Tensile Strength, psi: 7000
Tensile Elongation at break: 7.5 percent
Flexural Strength, psi: 11,500
Flexural Modulus, psi: 375,000
Lap Sheer Strength:
Polyester Laminate: 2800 psi
Concrete: 1100 psi
Wood: 1800 psi
Galvanized Steel: 1800 psi
Copper: 1650 psi
Use protective gloves when working with epoxy. Use soap and water or white vinegar to clean off of your hands. Use denatured alcohol to clean off your tools.
Number Of Parts:
Rate Of Cure:
How strong is the bond for edge joints of poly carbonate? I am using twin wall panels.
I don't have data on poly carbonate and this epoxy, Polyester Laminate: 2800 psiThere are two methods of bonding pieces of polycarbonate effectively, one being the use of an epoxide glue (Epoxy), which is relatively straight forward and not at all dissimilar to gluing any other two materials together; and the other being fusing the two together. Fusing is superior to using Epoxy as the end results tend to look seamless, almost invisible, and the bond itself is actually stronger and more resilient.To fuse the material all you need are your polycarbonate sheets and some Methylene Chloride, which can easily be bought online; once you have these two things you can get started with bonding your sheets together.
JD Tech Team
Will system 3 t 88 structural bond metal parts together that will be involved in a rotating environment with a honing oil to produce an cutting action? The parts to be bonded are a metal stone holder and a abrasive stone that is atheared to a piece of metal. The two metal pieces are bonded togethe(with the stone assemble) to produce a tool for honing holes to a super smooth finish. The process now involves souldering the pieces together which sometimes results in the holder and abrasive not being aligned with each other.
The only problem I can see is holding the parts together in alignment until the T 88 sets. If you can figure that out I might do the job. I epoxy magnesium to wood and wood to pvc. It is very strong but not as much as a weld. Good luck. Hope this helps.
T-88 is a great structural adhesive. But, to simply use it to "glue" two dis-similar, or spmetimed similar, materials together needs a little more than just the T-88 mixed 1 to 1. It has been my experience that you must first prepare the surface with some light sanding to give the T-88 some teeth to hold. Clean carefully to remove loose particles as well as all oil or grease. To gain some real strength when using T-88, add enough flox, a form of chopped cotton, to you T-88 mixture, to cause the T-88 to appear milky. It shouldn't be thick like peanut butter, but almost to that consistency. Brush both surfaces to be bonded together with a light coat of T-88, then apply your flox mixture in a thin layer. Gently squeeze together and clamp or secure. Be careful not to squeeze out all the mixture. It takes a good 24 hours to cure to a reasonable strength. One caveat, be really careful the first time you try to turn your pieces. Sanding T-88 with flox is not easy, so try to keep the mixture where you want it before it dries!
Thanks for you answer Mary, I will try this precedure on two pieces of metal as suggested and then try to break the bond. Thanks again
how do you apply?
I received an email about this question and was asked if I could answer. Its a bit vague cant don't understand the application from this.Sorry to waste your time.Hi RICK, To help make Jamestown Distributors a friendly place to shop, we enable shoppers to ask our customers questions about the products they bought - because sometimes input from a fellow customer is the most helpful. A shopper is looking for an answer from a fellow customer about System Three T88 Structural Adhesive. Since you bought this on January 30, 2012, we thought you might be able to help. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------A shopper asked: how do you apply?
Spread, drip, dab, etc. using something you don't mind throwing away.
I spread it with a butter knife. I try to "wet" both surfaces and then have some extra along the middle of the joint to allow for "squeeze out." S.O. proves that the joint has no voids.
mix as directed, I applied with a 3 inch putty knife on both faces of fresh sawed joints. any flat straight application tool, maybe a auto body putty knife would work. My project was large and the handle on the putty knife was essential. Wear nitrile gloves such as a physician wears so you can peal them of.
Well it is about the consistency of typical epoxy resins at room temperature, so with a stick or spreader depending on how much you want to cover. It is a fantastic product.
First of all, I used the 50/50 product and noted that it had a working time of 45 minutes. After a thorough mixing I applied the epoxy to the prepared surfaces with a narrow & flat spatula.The parts were then joined & held together with appropriate clamps during the curing process. These clamps can be removed after 6 hrs., but the curing process takes about 24 hrs. for maximum strength.Carefully remove any excess epoxy after applying the clamps since it will run somewhat and you do not want to try & do any removal once the epoxy has completely cured.
I poured it onto one of the surfaces and used a scrap piece of plastic (sides of milk jug) as a squeegee. After I had a uniform, thin layer of epoxy covering the entire board, I clamped the other board on top.
to both surfaces being bonded
Several checks / cracks in a large wood frame glass panel entry door. Can this product be injected in to the void while still on the hinges ? The crack is about 1 /8 wide and runs close to 30 " long. My concern is that it will drip out and not stay.
T-88 is a great product and will fill the cracks and voids. However it will still run when applied vertically. I would suggest using the West System regular resin and hardener. Lay the door on a flat surface and then inject the epoxy. You are likely to find that the cracks run deeper than you think. The thin epoxy will travel and settle into the void making a more complete repair. Additional applications will likely need to be ade during the settling of the epoxy. Do these before the first application cures. If you have no choice but to do the repair vertically, use the regular resin/hardener. Paint it into the void while still thin. Then use the silica thickener and thicken it to a paste consistency. Then trowel it into the voids so it is flush with the surface. Good luck.
Thinking now I might wait for our Winter weather, When it drops all the way down to 65 or so.
It will drip out. If you are going to use this product you will need to lay the door flat.
Taking the door down will be a issue. Located in Texas , Our heat is at the 100 mark now. Leaving the building wide open, also a commercial retail business door. I was hoping for a semi easy fix before I attempt to sand, restain and finish it
I would remove the door and place it on saw horses. Then inject the glue then clamp the door to close the crack wipe off excess glue and let stand 24 hours.
I'm in Texas also, so I understand. Winter weatther will extend the dry time some. If you can do it now, just use a plywood panel use a piece of plywood to seal the opening. Take it down either early morning or late evening. You could put it back then either late afternoon or early morning. Not quite full cure, but hard enough to rehang the door.
I have found when the heat from the chemical reaction starts t88 will go with the gravity and sag ... best to lay flat. I have used Scotch storage clear tape 2 inches wide to keep it in place but will make a mess on the finish of the door.. System 3 makes a less sagging non sag, name of product unknown, one part of the product is blue then changes more neutral when mixed ,in their products ...still think horizontal is best bet
In my experience you will probably get some dripping depending also on how deep the crack is.You could fill the crack in several built up layers and if you wait a few minutes for the epoxy to start getting thicker before applying, it may help a lot. Good Luck.
Rookie question...Is it practical to glue teak boards together? Or, must you always use supporting screws? Thanks!
Nathan, do you recommend a good teak adhesive? Thank you
Mechanically fastening is always best, but I recommend doing both to ensure a full waterproof seal, and high strength. Using only fasteners will leave a small unsealed gap in-between boards where water may enter (exterior applications). Thank you.
Life caulk is an excellent caulk for teak, check out our page "BTL-1036" which is the Teak-Brown Color, it bonds very well to teak with "good" adhesive power. If you're looking for more strength and waterproofing you can't go wrong with G/Flex Epoxy "WSY-650-32" there are also other options for the G/flex such as pre-thickened "WSY-655-K" and a clamshell kit that comes in liquid with a thickening agent which allows you to do both "WSY-650-K". This is an exceptional product and has endless applications, you can even bond damp wood to aluminum with this. Thank you.NathanJD Store(401)253-2986 ex.130
what is the best storage temprature for the T-88?
75 degrees F is the temperature that the cure times are based on so that is probably the best. I've had some cycle between about 40 to 100 F and it has still worked well.
I use room temp, 50-85 F
Between 50 and 80 degrees would be optimum.
we used it to anchor some bolts and steel in concrete worked good havent had any issue with it after that
The BEST storage temperature for ensuring T-88 stability is probably freezing, but it's impractical. The stuff is generally quite stable, however. I've never made special precautions for epoxy storage, and never had problems, even with material that has seen temperature swings from below zero (F) to 100 F. USE temperature is a whole 'nother story, however. The curing temperature is temperature dependent. Pot life is shorter at higher temperature. I try to mix and use it at 65-70 F. At lower temperatures, curing is a little slow, but the stuff does cure and bond strength seems okay. At higher temperatures, work a little faster.
T88, like most epoxies, will crystallize after prolonged exposure to temps below about 40 deg. F. They can be revived by warming to 150 degs. F for a few hours. Storage @ 50 -100 degs. F should be no problem. Warm to at least room temp before using. Epoxies mix easier and perform best above 80 degs. F.A good trick is to store and dispense epoxies from a box kept warm with a refrigerator sized light bulb.
EB WICKES/RAINBOW MARINE
Can I use an additive to thicken T88 to laminate oak frames on a large wooden boat?
You could, but the reason T-88 is called a structural adhesive and not just epoxy is because it already has a thickener built in. I'm not sure how much more it could use. Good luck with your project.
It's pretty thick as is. I laminated a 18" curved vertical beam as is
MARTHA'S VINEYARD CONSTRUCTION CO
will this bond fiberglass panels to plywood?
I've never tried it, but my understanding is it should work just fine.
Yes, but you should roughen the surface of the fiberglass. Remember also that the plywood has its structural strength and it needs to withhold the strain from the fiberglass. I am very pleased with this resin.
Depending on the porosity of the fiberglass panels, you may want to consider a thinner 'laminating' epoxy. T88 is quite thick so it can be difficult to spread evenly over a large area, but it will certainly hold! If the panels to be bonded are very porous T88's extra 'body' may be an advantage. In any case you'll want to arrange a good system to hold the parts in position while the epoxy cures.
I have not done that and would do a test first. Sorry
JUDITH LYNN MEISSEN
This stuff is the best. The technical data sheet says it works with fiberglass so you are good to go. It is not brittle so it can stand some expansion differences and even glues to wet wood.From the tech sheet:"T-88 has exceptional adhesion to most clean surfaces includingwood, fiberglass, concrete, aluminum, steel and many plastics."
I am building a 12 foot flat bottom boat out of marine plywood, I will be using screws and clamps to assemble such pieces my idea and question is will the T88 work in tight gaps if glued and screwed to prevent leakage?
I guess that depends on just how tight the gaps are. I think they would have to be very narrow gaps for a boat. T-88 is a great epoxy, and its thicker consistency helps with small gaps.
Yes, it's higher viscosity helps keep it in place and you can stll use some thickener if needed.
JUDITH LYNN MEISSEN
I already had West microbaloons and used those. Organic substances may not have the longevity you desire.
JUDITH LYNN MEISSEN
I've found T88 epoxy to provide a very strong and durable bond. Since it is also waterproof, you should have no problems for use on your boat.
Hello Judith, Thank you for answering my question. I have another question what should I use for thickener - does the company make such an item or should I try some corn starch or maybe metamucil might work.
I'm unable to help out on an application such as this. I used the adhesive to to seal and bond an aluminum panel to steel ( the joint was riveted, as well). This was on the top structure of a Delorean, and I no longer have the car.
where can i buy this product in the balto md area?
We can ship it to you from RI. You are only 2 days away ground shipping.
As of Sunday, Dec 20 I have not yet received my order.
I have used T88 for about six years and it is a good product. It can be messy but I've figured out how to control it. It can be difficult to pump especially when cold so I have a solution for that and to keep it from dripping during storage, I solved that also.
does the job well, fills in gaps nicely. used for wood laminates in an academic setting.
Avery good adhesive. Has to be mixed 1 to 1. very thick hardener and resin, so it's difficult to mix.
Like a Rock
Use this product to turn 3" hardwood flooring into stair treads. kind of an unconventional idea but this product helped bring it to life. The look great.
Very strong & good working time
Bottom Line for me is, the wood breaks before the glue joint. I also find a loose joint works the best for me using T-88.
Testing Proof To Myself
While planning my 21 ft Dory I ran some destructive test using Pine 2x4s and 1/2" Plywood. I tried 3 different glues:1. T-88 Epoxy2. Gorilla Glue3. Yellow Water Proof Wood GlueThe 1st test was with the 2 x 4 on edge with 4" of glue and held with 2 screws to the plywood. All three samples were precoated so as not to have dry joints and recoated after 5 minutes. After 24 hours the samples were broken.1. The T-88 Epoxy Sample took wood from both the plywood and 2 x 4s. But only about 1/8" deep.2. The Gorilla Glue also took some wood but less then the Epoxy.3. The Yellow Wood Glue had only minor amounts of wood where broken.The 2nd test was made only with T-88 Epoxy as it was the clear winner of test #1. With this 2nd test I once again made samples using 2 x 4s and 1/2" plywood.1. Tight joint as in Test #1 with T-88.2. Loose joint with one end touching and the other end 1/8" loose but fully filled with glue.3. The 3rd sample was also loose in the same way but I added some 1/32" chopped fiberglass to the epoxy. ( 3 TBS for Â¼ cup of epoxy) Sorry for the cooking measurements.4. The 4th sample was also made with the glass filled epoxy, but the joint was tight.After 24 hours I broke the parts.1. The tight joint with T-88 took a small amount of wood and was about the same as the first test results.2. The 2nd sample took a little more wood.3. The 3rd sample took wood about 1" deep in the 2 x 4 and ripped the plywood.4. The 4th sample also took wood but about Â½ as much as sample #3.OK, so the clear winner was a loose joint with glass filled T-88. (So much for wood class and making a good tight glue joint. Lol)My boat plans called for face to face gluing of 2 x 4s and so I glued some samples using 18" long boards glued at one end forming a 90 deg part. I made 2 samples of each.1. Sample #1 was glued using glass filled T-88 and held with two 3" deck screws.2. Sample #2 was the same except I drilled a hole 3/8" diameter 1/4" inch deep at each screw. (Glue Faces) I filled these holes with glass filled epoxy and reclamped with the screws.After 24 hours I removed the screws and broke the samples using a hyd press. All 4 samples were very strong but the samples with the filled 3/8" holes took a lot more force to break. Also these 2 samples failed by breaking deep into the board.After getting these results I have started my boat and made all of my joints with glass filled T-88. I now have it ready to apply the plywood.Bottom line is, I trust T-88 Epoxy. No I don't work for System Three.
great for bent wood laminations
great for glueing up laminations when bending wood using this method. no creep even after years.long working time is a big plus when setting laminated piece into forms.squeeze out can be a problem because of glue viscosity.
I have used T-88 for years and have always been satisfied with it.
La Porte, Texas
T-88 Structural Adhesive
I used this product in several traditional wood boat construction, specially in gluing 1/16th mohagany, on spanish cedar in control temperature.It become difficult to glue when the temperature dropped below 60 degrees.