Hammerite Rust Cap Smooth Finish paint is a self-priming, fast dry, rust preventive coating designed to provide both interior and exterior long-lasting metal protection. It provides a decorative finish that resists corrosion and the weather.
Hammerite Rust Cap paint dries to the touch in 30 minutes. Recoats should be applied within 4 hours, before curing begins. This versatile paint can be used for a variety of applications - from covering rust to painting lawn furniture, crafts, metal wagons and more. It's terrific on iron, steel and most metal surfaces.
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Does the glossy smooth finish stay very glossy or lose some of the gloss over, let's say, a years time?
This may be dependent on whether it has continuous direct sunlight, but from our experience it will do very well at holding gloss for at least a year.
JD Tech Associate
can hammerite rust cap be used on wood surfaces?
YES,OFCOURSE.-EVENTHOUGH THE MAIN ADVANTAGE AS '' RUST CAP '' IS NOT NEEDED; THE PAINT WILL GIVE GOOD PROTECTION TO WOOD -PLUS : THE HAMMERED FINISH WOULD GIVE A METAL LOOK'S
I'm not sure... i believe it was for metal. I used mine on an old metal stool because of rust issues. I think there could be better products for wood (guess)
I do not know the answer to that.
I used hammerite rust cap Latex primer for aluminum on an old aluminum mast with a factory white finish. It was badly scarred with many places down to bare aluminum which I painted with this. After the winter it is ready to finish. The primer looks solid and is holding up well. I want a dull/flat white finish to minimize glare. What paint to use?
It was the only aluminum primer I could find last Fall.
I happen to use a lot of Hammerite paint, but have not used the white so do not know if it is gloss or not for your mast. It does hold up very well as my use is in close coastal areas on the ocean
can hammerite direct on rust smooth paint be applied to a plancha ( hot plate ) on a barbecue and is it safe afer application to cook and eat from it ?
I would say NOT as any surface that you cook on will heat too much and absorb into the food. Even paint for hot surfaces is not to be put onto cooking plates or grill parts that actually have food cooking on them. I am a contractor so have a few answers
I do not believe that Hammerite is rated for very high temperature (VHT) surfaces, nor is it rated for food prep applications.
Can I use smooth finish rust cap on a hot water radiator (max temp 180 degrees)?
The recommended temps are up to 35 C and I dont believe 180 F is good for this...
can you paint over a painted surface or does it have to be sand blasted to bare metal?
As with almost any paint, the existing paint should be cleaned and sanded to rough-up the surface. No need to sand to bare metal. You can paint over rust as long as the rusty areas are sanded first.
I use Hammerite on a boat particularly on the engine to touch up hard to reach rust that cannot be scraped or sanded to bare metal. It does not need to be sanded to bare metal but it will work better if taken down to bare metal. When painting over a rusty spot, the spot will clearly not spread and occasionally will come back through the paint. It is the best solution to rust spots that I know.
It can be painted
Yes. This coating works well over rusted and previously painted metal surfaces. remove surface dust and grime and any oily residue..I wire.brush and rinse external signs and monuments before coating with very good results.
Is there only one shade of green?
Idk, I bought black. Sorry
I believe there is only one shade.and I use Hammerite a lot
Could we use a Hammerite product to refinish the wheels on our RV? It is currently chrome plated and rusts easily.
Thank you! Good information! Just concerned about the chrome plating!
I feel that thiws would be a good product for this situation, I have used Hammerite for many years. FIRST CLEAN OFF THE OLD RUST though.
I have never tried Hammerite over chrome but I've used it on just about everything else. I would not be afraid to use it. I think you will like the result.
I live on an island in the Caribbean. It is beyond a corrosion environment. The air is pure salt. I first read about it in a boating magazine. I started using this paint on my boat motor and motor mount. Then i started painting everything from the interior screws on my truck to my home gym equipment. Both black and white paint. Great stuff.
I have used this paint before but can't remember if I used the smooth or hammered finish, how can I tell and will it make a difference when I repaint?
IF YOUR PAINTING OVER THE HAMMERED FINISH AND NOW WANT A SMOOTH FINISH BETTER SAND THE OLD. I HAVEN'T USED THE HAMMERED FINISH IN 20 YEARS AS I REMEMBER IT, IT IS A ROUGH FINISH AND MAY SHOW THROUGH THE SMOOTH FINISH. I THINK THE HAMMERED FINISH HOLDS UP MUCH BETTER THAN THE SMOOTH. GOOD LUCK
I have only used the smooth finish and it's a great product. I have used it to paint some old boat trailers and they came out great . The paint is easy to apply by brush and flows to a nice finish. Hammered is what it says looks like you took a hammer and slightly dented the surface all over .
I have used both and prefer the smooth finish. I use it on cast iron and steel. I even mix my own colors.It is the best product I have ever used. The hammered finish is great to for special effects.Just depends on your preference.
it will make a difference. The hammered finish is dimpled, and the smooth is smooth ( but I haven't used it )
My storage shed roof is pretty rusted and my contractor suggested using Hammerite. The shed is about 8' x 10' with a sloping roof. I think it's a steel roof. Is this product a good solution? From what I can tell, I don't need to prime it. Also, thinking of painting on and possibly using a spray can for difficult to access places, but looks like spray can may jam up. Suggestion/comments are appreciated!
hammerite is a great product. I would recommend it highly. I you use a brush follow directions and don't over-brush.
Used smooth on wrought iron lawn furniture last year (White). Brushed and experienced the challenges others cite of dragging and brush buildup. Particularly due to 1/4" wire decorative and small angle top/leg frames.Still worked well and provided excellent surface. Buy xylene and auto laquer thinner at paint shop to clean brush when dragging gets bad. Keep top on can closed and poor small amounts into use container. Re-thin 5-10% when either pot gets thick and stir often.Good stuff, as advertised. Have spraying experience and I think this stuff would be very hard to do anything except put product on your substantial surface for tip off with wet brush.Family farm (my brother) used it on my rec on grain wagon with excellent resutls even where grain exits and typically strips paint in two seasons.
I used both, brushed on and spray can; the spray can didn't jam up but it didn't covered the inside of the holes of a metal security screen door as I thought it would. I recommend for a large flat surface to use a brush instead of the spray can. All the flat surfaces I treated with brush are doing very well.
No priming with hammerite, remove loose material and paint. I suggest you brush it on instead of spray painting. It takes a long time for it to cure, be patient, give it at least 2 weeks to fully harden.
Worked very well.
We used this paint on a project to paint new, but lightly rusted frames for bleacher backs prior to having galvanized fencing installed. This was part of a Lions Club project to improve safety of bleachers the club owns and maintains. The Hammerite rust cap paint went on well, and covered well. We had some runs and sags as a result of several inexperienced painters. The painted frames withstood the abrasion of installing fencing with bands and stretching. Interestingly, the Hammerite Aluminum color matches well, at least for now, with the galvanized fence.
I would use it again
Am restoring a 1929 steam locomotive; used Hammerite Gloss black to paint the frame (an on-going project.) Used the same product about 10 years ago on another engine about 10 years ago.Still looks pretty good. Engine sits outside in San Diego area sun.
Hammerite Rust Cap smooth finish paint
This stuff will do the trick! It is super messy, not easy to work with, but, unlike most others that are advertised as rust stoppers this one really works! It dries glassy hard and so would chip easily if exposed to bumps and grinds but everywhere else it rules! Do not spray this paint, it will clog your sprayer in a hurry, and will render it useless, use a brush only. But it works like a charm.
Just what it promised.
It has been two years since I painted my rusty old 1987 boat trailer with Hammerite. After having sat in a marine salvage yard for (????) years, it was a pretty ugly thing...but the Hammerrite fixed her right up. There have been a spot of two I have had to touch up, but lets face it...once rusts starts there is no way to stop in entirely. This Hammerite is as close as I have come though. It is tough, doesnt chip, and does exactly what it promises!
A goog rustcap for northern NE
This product or in its textured form does what it says. Provides a seald cap slowing the progression of rust, I thinned it with Xylol and painted my 1994 saab 900(grey)I used a 2.3mm tip. The paint sticks like glue and you can spray it too.I use it when ever I am doing auto rust repairs. After a stabilizer of some sort.Thank you, Dale.
I painted a rusty 12' boat trailer and it looks brand new. 2 quarts was enough to apply 2 coats with a little extra for touch up work later. The can says that drying time is 90 minutes but I did not realize that it takes 14 days for the product to fully cure. I tried to handle the trailer the next day and the paint was too soft.
very hard to apply
paint dries instantly and will not level, impossible to maintain wet edge and even thickness coat. I could only make somewhat satisfactory finish with 50% Xylen mixed with the paint and applying thick coat. This paint can only be applied with air, or airless.
Tough As Nails
I used Hammerite Rust Cap Gloss red as a stop gap measure on a steel boat centerboard that I could not remove but was rusty and I didn't want to get worse.I used a rotary sander with a very coarse grit and removed all the scale and crud that I could. (I could only get to about half of the board.) Using a brush, I applied rust cap to the surface. The paint is thick and kind of heavy. It's easy to get it on too thick and create runs and slow drying. It covers very well.So spread the paint with just a moderate coat as evenly as you can. Applied properly you will be rewarded with a shiny, extremely tough finish. Unlike any I have seen before from any paint.Included is a photo of the board as I was dr0pping it this (2010) season. The Rust Cap is still bright and shiny!You better like it after it's on, because it's a son of a gun to get off!A year later I dropped out the centerboard for total refurbishment (the area with the Rust cap looked perfect), intending to grind off the Rust Cap. Well ... that was a tough job! This stuff has significant holding power believe me! I had a heck of a time grinding it off!If you want a tough, permanent finish on your rusty part or vehicle, give this stuff a try. I don't think you will be disappointed.Look at my photo. You can see half the board was painted, half not.
Smooth silver Hammerite Rust Cap
I bought a 12 year old, 45' flatbed semi-trailer with a rusty steel frame. Apparently it was factory painted over oily steel. The paint and rust scale were 3"+ in diameter. I used a air-powered needle scaler to knock off the surface debris. I blew off any dust with compressed air...that was it for surface prep. I brushed the Hammerite RustCap on with a 3" synthetic brush at ~45 degrees air temp...a little cooler than they recommend. It took some doing as the paint is thick and daubbing it into all the rust pits took some time; 95% was vertical surfaces. I got lots of runs as can be expected with that cold temperature. With the pockmarked surface and the runs, it eventually looked like I used the hammered finish...I didn't care as long as the color was silver and the structural integrity of the trailer frame was going to be preserved. It took 1 gallon to cover 1 outside 45' frame rail and the ICC bumper.Cleanup was a snap using cheap lacquer thinner. It took a couple days to complete the whole trailer and I managed to only use 2 brushes to do it...the bristles tended to get bent with all the daubing of the paint into the nooks and crannies of the rusty metal. It's been months now since the paint job and no evidence of new rust forming, paint flaking off or any other problem. It took a lot of internet and yellow page searching to find this product but it was well worth it. I will use it again and highly recommend it to anyone who desires to cover existing rust with little prep work involved.