COVID-19 Update: We are open & shipping orders! We are working hard to ship as quickly as possible, while ensuring the safety of our associates. Send us your questions and our Total Support Team will respond by email or phone as soon as we can! Please note: Our Bristol retail store is closed until future notice
Jamestown Distributors(800) 497-0010
Click to watch the JD Search Tutorial video & learn
all about searching and browsing on Jamestowndistributors.com
Grid scored scrim Divinycell is cross-linked PVC foam core. H80, 5 lb density scored sheets with scrim able to conform to curved surfaces. 5 lb./cu. ft. density. Great for hulls and decks. Can be used on curved areas. Divinycell sheets measure 32 inches X 48 inches. 10.67 Sq feet per sheet.
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
Available in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch thick 14 square foot sheets.
Can Divinycell be sanded once in place so as to contour or taper core to blend into curved area? I am replacing a section of deck core on a J29 sailboat and need to taper the material to blend into place where hull and deck are joined. I'm hoping a palm sander will sand down the hardened Divinycell.
First, buy the scored divinycell, as it is made for curved surfaces. Trim the divinycell with scissors before hardening. You'll be able to sand the hardened divinycell after hardening, but best practice is to minimize the need for sanding. You can trim the nubs on the scored divinycell easily and taper as needed. Make sure the inner fiberglass surface is faired to the shape you need in the end, then apply the trimmed divinycell scored side out and harden. Sand til smooth, and start the outer fiberglass shell. Get the shape you want early in the process, and it will make your finishing much easier. Cheers
Yes it can be sanded in place
Absolutely, this material can be shaped by sander rather easily if needed.
JD Tech Associate
I'm trying to replace the foam core in the engine floor hatch on a 2006 36' blue star . the original foam measures 5/8 thick but I cant find any foam core anywhere this size, I'm wondering if the 3/4 thick foam measures 5/8 kinda like a 2x4 stud doesn't exactly measure 2x4?? any answers would be appreciated
No the thickness of the foam is what it says. So 3/4" is 3/4". You will be fine using 1/2". Add an extra layer of glass and with the bedding compound you should have the thickness you need. Sent from Corey's iPhone
I have 1/2 inch here that I bought and it measures 1/2 inch so it is not smaller than the number listed. There are a couple of things you could do. You could use 1/2 inch core material and add extra layers of fiberglass on the outside or you could use 3/4 ans a block of wood with 36 grit sandpaper on it to sand the core material to 5/8. My deck repair was originally 5/8 and I replaces it with 1/2 inch and used a couple of extra layers of the fiberglass to make up the difference. They sell a glass mat that will build thickness faster than the cloth
3/4" core materials measure 3/4" unfortunately, measurements are true with these conventions.
JD Tech Associate
I am considering re-coring a large section of my 14 foot Omega sailboat. The foam has separated from the outer layer of fiberglass. This boat was built in 1982 and the junk foam coming out of it looks like 1/2 inch foam. Do I need to replace it with half inch foam or is this stuff better than what was used 305 years ago?
Yes, if it's 1/2" replace with 1/2". It should be better than what was there.
JD Tech Team
per an earlier question - I'm restoring the topsides of an older Tornado Catamaran - your answer was that the Divinyl H80 was the right type material and that I should plan on fiberglassing as well - is the 1/4 inch material sufficient for this? What type of fiberglass and epoxy might you suggest to cover the divinyl?thx again for speedy response
1708 Biaxial Cloth will give the most strength with epoxy resin. If you have the room in the layup you may want to consider 1/2" Divinycell and a top and bottom layer or two of Biaxial cloth which would be really strong.
JD Tech Team
I am restoring a 20 foot Tornado catamaran - most of the hull is in good shape except for the topsides - they are completely shot - and I have completely removed - what would be the best material to make completely new and strong topsides for the hulls? I likely will need a slight curve to the tops - is something like Diviniycell useable - or what would anyone suggest - I'm assuming along with some kind of sheeting I'll also epoxy it over - thx
The grid scored divinycell will conform to a slight curve easily and make a good core material. You will need to fiberglass over it.
JD Tech Team
Hi , Reading the thread, this is not the best for insulation. I need to increase the floatability of a small old wood/ fiber glass dignhy. I plan to do this under the sides and benchsed but it seems expensive. What woudl you recommend?thanksEd
This foam certainly is lighter than wood and it will not rot. If impact durability is not as critical, then urethane foam is a less expensive way to go. It can be found in lighter weight densities and a variety of thicknesses. I am using it on the hull of a flying boat(kit plane), so I need it for impact resistance.
If you used this to build air tanks for floatation it will work just fine. You assemble the box and tab it in and tape the seams.
Ed - it's closed cell so it won't absorb water and curves to shape. Having said that, I'd suggest the "foam in a can." Let it expand and cure, then seal it with some fiberglass and epoxy. Hope this helps.
I used it for recoring the top of a San Juan 21 deck. The divinycell is a great product to work with .
Diviniycell is a structural foam and priced that way. To displace water for flotation use a spray foam insulation or glue on some styrofoam blocks.
This material is used for the core in a fiberglass hull or deck. I'd use styrofoam to increase the buoyancy of the dinghy in case of capsize.
Divinyl would be fine insulation and flotation and is expensive. For flotation I would bond it in with thickened West system epoxy (expensive too) and a ply of light 6 oz fiberglass cloth. You could just get that blue styrofoam and fit it in and bond it in as above. The blue styrofoam will soak up water but that takes months. Epoxy sticks to the styrofoam just fine.
I'm looking to find out the weight per sheet of this product-how much does a 3/8 4x8 sheet weigh?
5lbs per cubic foot.
I did not weigh the sheets of H80. So I can tell you it is nice too work with from cutting to fitting.
Im not sure of the exact weight. I bought a 4x4x3/8 sheet. It was light. I'd guess about 6 to 8 lbs.
will this dor for floatation in a boat?
Yes, but...Awfully expensive choice. You would be better served to buy closed cell foam in either pre-formed sheets or if the space irregular, Jamestown sells a pour in closed cell foam which works very well for floatation requirements.
I am working on a Nickles Lightning. The floatation is built into the hull. So yes, because I am working around the Centerboard trunk. So it is floatation, also used for curved decks.
I would think that although it floats it would not have adequate buoyancy when used as a core material. One of the two part foams filling a void would be better.
It would if you used enough of it. But that would be pretty expensive. Better off buying 2 part foam which expands to fill a cavity.
I bought it as coring material for a companionway hatch cover, to stiffen it while adding little weight, and giving it some insulation.I doubt whether it would be suitable for flotation, not because of the material, but the comparativle small volume. Also the scoring, which makes it flexible to follow gentle curvatures is a questionable characteristic for flotation.
it would be really expensive and would likely waterlog. use a 2 part foam.
No, this product is designed as a structural substrate, meant for lamination on all sides to preserve structural integrity. Now if you wanted to use it for something it wasn't meant for, yea i guess you could use for floatation. it would be expensive for that kind of job. Most boat builders use polystyrene foam for that job. not enough information to help you more. good luck.
I doubt it. There really isn't that much foam there.
This is structural foam. You can make a very good foam cored laminate with this and some fiber and epoxy. It will float. It won't absorb water. If you just want flotation there are many much cheaper ways.
I have a 1976 C&C27 and have some rotten balsa which I have removed. Could I use this H80 in the areas that I have removed the bad balsa? This would mean I would have the H80 laying alongside the good balsa. Does the H80 work well with polyester resins?ThanksRuss
the h 80 would be fine for you application. Divinycell H is compatible with virtually all commonly used resin systems (polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy) including those with high styrene contents.
i am looking to build a 12'x16. roof for my 41' cruiser. longitudinal support is 8' separation.there will be a fly bridge mounted on top.What do you guys recommend?Currently it is sawn rafter / plywood skin affair.thanks!
even the non scored divinycell has some considerable flex to it. If its not a radical curve i would go with the non scored 4x8 sheets. I recently used sheets this big as a core material for the cockpit floor on my 30' cruising catamaran.
Biraxial fiberglass and 1/2" core. Vacumm bag the whole thing.
excellent material for replacing bad coring
easy to install
The Divinycell with the scored grid was perfect for my application. It was used along with West Epoxy to te-core my deck. The deck is now like a sidewalk. I'm very pleased.
City Island, N.Y
Great core material
We are a student team working on a 8.5' long submarine hull. In this case our high school aged youth are doing the layup. The scored mat worked well to conform to our complex curves, adding strength and buoyancy to our hull. We thought the Divinycell would be more expensive, but it fit in our budget nicely. Even the shipping costs were less than we anticipated.
I've been using this stuff to add ribs to the interior of a fiberglass boat. They work well to a) reinforce areas that were previously flexible and b) to provide a surface to mount slats. They conform well to curves, and when wetted out with epoxy will stick without too much effort.