Grid scored scrim Divinycell is cross-linked PVC foam core. H80, 5 lb density scored sheets with scrim able to conform to curved surfaces. 5 lb./cu. ft. density. Great for hulls and decks. Can be used on curved areas. Divinycell sheets measure 32 inches X 48 inches. 10.67 Sq feet per sheet.
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Available in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch thick 14 square foot sheets.
I am considering re-coring a large section of my 14 foot Omega sailboat. The foam has separated from the outer layer of fiberglass. This boat was built in 1982 and the junk foam coming out of it looks like 1/2 inch foam. Do I need to replace it with half inch foam or is this stuff better than what was used 305 years ago?
Yes, if it's 1/2" replace with 1/2". It should be better than what was there.
JD Tech Team
per an earlier question - I'm restoring the topsides of an older Tornado Catamaran - your answer was that the Divinyl H80 was the right type material and that I should plan on fiberglassing as well - is the 1/4 inch material sufficient for this? What type of fiberglass and epoxy might you suggest to cover the divinyl?thx again for speedy response
1708 Biaxial Cloth will give the most strength with epoxy resin. If you have the room in the layup you may want to consider 1/2" Divinycell and a top and bottom layer or two of Biaxial cloth which would be really strong.
JD Tech Team
I am restoring a 20 foot Tornado catamaran - most of the hull is in good shape except for the topsides - they are completely shot - and I have completely removed - what would be the best material to make completely new and strong topsides for the hulls? I likely will need a slight curve to the tops - is something like Diviniycell useable - or what would anyone suggest - I'm assuming along with some kind of sheeting I'll also epoxy it over - thx
The grid scored divinycell will conform to a slight curve easily and make a good core material. You will need to fiberglass over it.
JD Tech Team
Hi , Reading the thread, this is not the best for insulation. I need to increase the floatability of a small old wood/ fiber glass dignhy. I plan to do this under the sides and benchsed but it seems expensive. What woudl you recommend?thanksEd
Diviniycell is a structural foam and priced that way. To displace water for flotation use a spray foam insulation or glue on some styrofoam blocks.
Divinyl would be fine insulation and flotation and is expensive. For flotation I would bond it in with thickened West system epoxy (expensive too) and a ply of light 6 oz fiberglass cloth. You could just get that blue styrofoam and fit it in and bond it in as above. The blue styrofoam will soak up water but that takes months. Epoxy sticks to the styrofoam just fine.
This material is used for the core in a fiberglass hull or deck. I'd use styrofoam to increase the buoyancy of the dinghy in case of capsize.
I used it for recoring the top of a San Juan 21 deck. The divinycell is a great product to work with .
Ed - it's closed cell so it won't absorb water and curves to shape. Having said that, I'd suggest the "foam in a can." Let it expand and cure, then seal it with some fiberglass and epoxy. Hope this helps.
If you used this to build air tanks for floatation it will work just fine. You assemble the box and tab it in and tape the seams.
This foam certainly is lighter than wood and it will not rot. If impact durability is not as critical, then urethane foam is a less expensive way to go. It can be found in lighter weight densities and a variety of thicknesses. I am using it on the hull of a flying boat(kit plane), so I need it for impact resistance.
I'm looking to find out the weight per sheet of this product-how much does a 3/8 4x8 sheet weigh?
Im not sure of the exact weight. I bought a 4x4x3/8 sheet. It was light. I'd guess about 6 to 8 lbs.
I did not weigh the sheets of H80. So I can tell you it is nice too work with from cutting to fitting.
5lbs per cubic foot.
will this dor for floatation in a boat?
I would think that although it floats it would not have adequate buoyancy when used as a core material. One of the two part foams filling a void would be better.
I am working on a Nickles Lightning. The floatation is built into the hull. So yes, because I am working around the Centerboard trunk. So it is floatation, also used for curved decks.
I bought it as coring material for a companionway hatch cover, to stiffen it while adding little weight, and giving it some insulation.I doubt whether it would be suitable for flotation, not because of the material, but the comparativle small volume. Also the scoring, which makes it flexible to follow gentle curvatures is a questionable characteristic for flotation.
Yes, but...Awfully expensive choice. You would be better served to buy closed cell foam in either pre-formed sheets or if the space irregular, Jamestown sells a pour in closed cell foam which works very well for floatation requirements.
It would if you used enough of it. But that would be pretty expensive. Better off buying 2 part foam which expands to fill a cavity.
This is structural foam. You can make a very good foam cored laminate with this and some fiber and epoxy. It will float. It won't absorb water. If you just want flotation there are many much cheaper ways.
I doubt it. There really isn't that much foam there.
No, this product is designed as a structural substrate, meant for lamination on all sides to preserve structural integrity. Now if you wanted to use it for something it wasn't meant for, yea i guess you could use for floatation. it would be expensive for that kind of job. Most boat builders use polystyrene foam for that job. not enough information to help you more. good luck.
it would be really expensive and would likely waterlog. use a 2 part foam.
I have a 1976 C&C27 and have some rotten balsa which I have removed. Could I use this H80 in the areas that I have removed the bad balsa? This would mean I would have the H80 laying alongside the good balsa. Does the H80 work well with polyester resins?ThanksRuss
the h 80 would be fine for you application. Divinycell H is compatible with virtually all commonly used resin systems (polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy) including those with high styrene contents.
i am looking to build a 12'x16. roof for my 41' cruiser. longitudinal support is 8' separation.there will be a fly bridge mounted on top.What do you guys recommend?Currently it is sawn rafter / plywood skin affair.thanks!
Biraxial fiberglass and 1/2" core. Vacumm bag the whole thing.
even the non scored divinycell has some considerable flex to it. If its not a radical curve i would go with the non scored 4x8 sheets. I recently used sheets this big as a core material for the cockpit floor on my 30' cruising catamaran.
For those who have seen Zieger's Triloboat concept. Would using divinycell to replace the plywood hull work? Marine plywood is getting very expensive but using divinycell and epoxy coated glass seems like a reasonable way to go.
Not sure that would be a good application for Divinycell core. This core material needs glass or carbon laminate on both sides to be strong, and preferrably it is built in a mold using vacuum bag technique. I don't know a lot about the Triloboat concept, but it seems to be specifically designed for plywood panel construction. To convert it to GRP/Foam seems more work than just paying for the plywood. Good luck.
Divinycell is not that cheap either. It has a lot of advantages above the waterline it is light and can be cut and shaped easily. I would use it.As far as the amount of surface needed to build a barge, you would not be sure the the epoxy was was fully absorbed in to anything thicker than 1/4 inch and than that would be a double diagonal layup. Finally that would have to be glassed over just like a plywood hull. You have to ask yourself is the weight advantage necessary in the hull of such a craft? What about the skeletal structure of the hull? Again you can not use greater than 1/4 to laminate parts to be sure of maximum absorption. By eye you can't tell with thicker product in stress areas.Yeah, it would be rot proof for ever, but it it really worth it. I would use good wood and epoxy on the hull inside and out.
First you should ask Zieger.Looking at his boats, my answer to your question is NO!
What is the best adhesive/sealent to use with this product?
While a number of different adhesives would probably work, I use epoxy thickened with a medium density filler. Thicken to the consistency of thick syrup and be sure to paint into each of the scores as well as on the surfaces to be mated. For small areas (< 6"x6") you can use weights or pressure to hold it in place while it cures. Any larger area than that and you really should vacuum bag. See the JD videos.
I used as a fiberglass filler and used ther resin very effectively to tie into the boat floor
i bonded it to glass and other types of core with thickened epoxy. ive used wood flour, chopped glass, silica, and microballoons with no problems.
we laid this up with west system epoxy in repairing deck core.
Great core material
We are a student team working on a 8.5' long submarine hull. In this case our high school aged youth are doing the layup. The scored mat worked well to conform to our complex curves, adding strength and buoyancy to our hull. We thought the Divinycell would be more expensive, but it fit in our budget nicely. Even the shipping costs were less than we anticipated.
I've been using this stuff to add ribs to the interior of a fiberglass boat. They work well to a) reinforce areas that were previously flexible and b) to provide a surface to mount slats. They conform well to curves, and when wetted out with epoxy will stick without too much effort.