Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane is a clear, tough coating that protects and beautifies wood. It can be recoated in as little as 3 hours and cures to an exceptionally hard finish, similar to those used in bowling alleys. Its micro-formulation permits clog-free spray application.
Recommended for use on all interior wood surfaces; including floors, cabinets, doors, furniture, and paneling. Available in GLOSS (1818), SEMI-GLOSS (1817) and SATIN (1819).
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Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane can be applied onto bare, stained or finished wood.
Sand existing wood or new wood to obtain a smooth, uniform surface. Stir contents thoroughly prior to and during application. Never shake.
On unfinished wood, thin first coat with 10% mineral spirits. Wipe or brush on a thin coat of Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane using a lint-free cloth, a pure bristle brush or a lambskin applicator. Apply evenly with long strokes in the direction of the grain.
Allow to dry for at least 3 hours and sand lightly using very fine sandpaper (220) or steel wool (0000). Remove all dust and apply a second coat as above. If a third coat is desired, resand and apply as above.
Resistance to Water
Dry Time to Touch
Dry Time to Recoat
Fast Dry Polyurethane
Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Satin
Coverage per Quart
100 Sq Ft
Coverage per Aerosol Can
40 Sq Ft
Has anybody had experience useing this product on live edge wood? Does it allow for wood movement? I have always used hand rubbed finishes but they are not strong enough for the restaurant table I am making which needs to stand up to hard use. I was thinking of useing semi gloss to mimic the hand rubbed finish a bit. Any thoughts?
It is a polyurethane and will be a little more flexible than spar varnish, but haven't used it in that application.
can this be used over min wax stain? or is it better over the circa 1850 paint/varnish?
Hi I would be cautiois to use over min-wax ONLY if Min wax contains any wax product;; if it doesn't and it jst a stain; the OK. But I would be 100% certain it could be used Over aan existing 1850 Poly product.
It has worked for me with min wax stain
Yes it can be used over min wax stain works very well
when it says 100sf coverage per qt is that one coat only, or enough to actually cover new wood with a satisfactory finish (2-3 coats, one thinned)?
It is pretty thin already. Pretty sure not 3 coats, but you might get 2 coats.....however, you don't want to get caught in the middle of a coat so a gallon may be the better way to be sure. I've had a partial gallon around for a couple years and, unlike other varnishes, it has not hardened at all in the 1/2 empty can.
I used this product for furniture finishing. I found the 100 sq ft coverage accurate. Keep in mind that you will get a better finish with multiple lighter coats and not applying a thick heavy coat. You will need extremely good ventilation.. This product has a very high odor when drying. Extremely hard finish when cured that resist scratching, cracking, denting... This is really good stuff!
Can this finish be used over a penetrating oil, like teak oil?
Yes it can
I wouldn't apply over a thicker coat of any oil; not a good idea; It's not a rough' surface...You're talking Oil..and that is slippery.
Thanks James, I am making stair treads and a landing out of eastern cedar and want to keep the deep dark color the penetrating oil brings out, but as the cedar is so soft, the extra protection of the poly will be a huge benefit.
I have used it over Circa Tung Oil and it works great. I talked to Circa and they said all of their products will work together.
Can this product be used on an actual bowling alley? I have 2 lanes in my home and I am looking to refinish them.
Scott I bought 4 quarts of Circa 1850 a couple of years ago. My son bought several sections of a bowling alley to make a kitchen table out of it. I was very pleased with the results. Followed directions on the can.And this went on very easy and with a smooth finish. The reason I bought this was because of the hard finish it gives the wood and brings out the coloring of the wood.I don't have a bowling alley but I won't think twice of not putting this product on it!So I don't know if I gave you the answer you where looking for or not? But I hope this helps.
I don't know why not it is a good finish, hard finish won't yellow and goes on easily. Loren Milligan
circa 1850 fast dry polyurethane should work well on ON BOWLING LANES.
this stuff is awesome !! i would use it on any real wood floors ,i have used it ,in my house ,on oak hardwood floors that are very old ,and it is simply amazing ,a lot cheaper than hiring someone to strip and refinish ,i love the stuff ,you have to put it on thin and give plenty of time to dry .
Sorry I don't know. I know it works well on furniture, but it doesn't take the abuse that a bowling ball will.
where to buy locally?
I don't know of any where you can buy it locally. I've used it in the past and it is a very good finish. I recommend it.
I have never found it locally. Jamestown prices are actually quite fair.
I always purchase this item on online
I don't know of any place locally I order from Jamestown.
What primer/sealer would work well with this product? I have to somehow water proof my floors, before I poly them!
I used the Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane on my teak & holly cabin sole on my sailboat. Minimum three coats with light sanding between coats.. I did not use any primer or sealer.. Two years later the cabin sole still looks like it was done yesterday...
I've only used poly on finished surfaces, so am unable to be of help.
I purchased 1850 for my cabin sole since I read that varnish is too soft for high traffic areas. I love the product and have used it to top coat old formica to bring back a "like new" shine. It did a great job! I'm curious as to what reasons you would want to use schooner varnish on the walls versus this polyurethane? Is the schooner easier to apply? Or, can you use 1850 on the walls as well?
John, you can use it on walls or furniture, no ploy made just for eater.
Can this product be put over top of sanded epoxy? Would a brush or roller be recommended for coverage of large areas?
I have used it on small areas like nail holes and splits and it works great.
I think the manufacturer will need to address the epoxy comparability question..my application was directly on clean wod teak/holly floorboards.As for the roller application, I am not sure much would be gained by this as you would likely need to tip it with a brush. From my recollection, the few passes the better and I think the thick nature of this and a roller would only introduce more bubbles.It is going on 4 yrs since I re-finished the floorboards with this product. Very pleased with the results...will use it again...in 20 years or so.
good stuffeasy to applynice sheen, both satin and flathard finish, good for cabin solefast enough dryingwould I buy it again? yesTom Kiley
Yes, works well over epoxy filler.
Yes, this can be applied over a properly prepared epoxy. I actually think it is a good choice. I prefer to use a brush to apply, because I rarely use rollers for anything. I think the finish would lay out properly with a roller however.
Does the satin finish give you better wet surface traction over the gloss?
The satin finish matches the existing finish on My hardwood floor. I roller skate on my floor, it is located in my house. The floor was originally done with a satin finish, so it's a matter of matching with the part of the floor I don't skate on. the satin finish provides better surface traction when wet over a dry surface. However I do not know if the satin finish provides better surface traction than gloss or semi gloss. Sorry not to be more helpful.
Thanks Albert. Some have suggested to add "H & C Shark Grip Slip-Resistant Additive" to the polyurethane. It's a Sherwin Williams product.
I would think so...I believe I used the gloss and it can get a bit slick when wet. My application was interior and I have a rug right below the companion way.
I used it for a table so I'm not sure...
LIVES UP TO ITS CLAIM
EASY TO WORK WITH AND PRODUCES AN EXCEPTIONAL FINISH ON MY CABIN SOLE. CAN WALK ON IT IN BARE FOOTED IN 4 HOURS.
EXCELLENT POLYURETHANE FOR FURNITURE
EXCELLENT PRODUCT TO USE FOR FURNITURE FINISHING. DOES NOT YELLOW OR FADE ORIGINAL PAINT/STAIN CLAIRITY WHEN APPLIED. DRYING TIME WAS 6 TO 8 HOURS FOR HANDELING OF WOOD SURFACES. CAREFUL NOT APPLY IN COOLER TEMPERTURES - YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN YOUR DRIED FINISH . . . MAINTAIN CONSTANT TEMPS WHEN DRYING SURFACES. . . TWO COATS WILL "BLOW YOUR MIND" WITH THE BEAUTY OF THIS FINISH . . .I DEFINITELY WILL USE THIS PRODUCT AGAIN!
i used this product for the wood in my 1928 Model A Ford and it came out wonderful. After laying down the first few coats with a brush I followed a quick sanding with 220 and shot with HVLP gun strait no thinner and ended up with a great finish.
Beaver owner of Walts Rod & Custom
On interior stairway, seems ideal
I used the satin finish over existing sealer. Dried overnite for barefoot traffic, hard after a day. Be sure to thoroughly mix it if it's satin, or you'll get a glossy finish. One coat was sufficient in my application.
New Bern, NC
So far, so good
Circa 1850 Polyurethane was used to refinish teek and holly floorboards from my 1966 Hood 43. Before each coat I lightly rubbed down previous coat with with medioum pad, cleaned with mineral spirits and tack clothe. Filtered Polyurethane from can and used foam brush for application. I applied three thin coats of Polyurethane followed by two thicker coats. It just kept getting better looking with each coat. I gave it 24 hours to dry in between each coat...in a warmer environment it would have certainly dried faster. Now time will tell how durable it is.
Easy to work with, Excellent Results!
I used this to refinish my kitchen cabinets and genuine oak floors in a 60+ year old house. The pictures speak for themselves!As long as the surface is prepared correctly, this poly does an incredible job of bringing out the natural grain of the wood. It self-levels and dries to a very hard finish. I am not a professional by any means but I think I achieved professional results using this poly. I would recommend it to anybody. It's a bit pricey, but worth every penny.
this is a great old style poly that is better than anything currently available in CA due to the asinine air quality control rules they have here. All the envio-friendly polys they sell here are far inferior. I use it on furniture and cabinets but wouldn't hesitate to use it on a floor. It levels great and sets up and actually hardens as opposed to the locally sold polys. The dry times on the label are on the aggressive side but if you have the right temperature, application, air circulation and humidity they are realistic but I agree that for the average environment and application more time is generally required. 90% of my applications are spray and 10% brush or wipe. If I did a floor I would roll it and brush edges/small areas.
Great for indoor use, best to have good clean finish for strong adhesion. Use as directed! I agree with other posts, 3 to 4 hours is probably pushing it on dry time.
Longer dry time
Product works as advertised except there is no way it dries in 3 or 4 hours. If you want three coats try about 12 hours between each coat.
We used this on our stairs that are wood. It dries fast and gives a gloss and shine that regular poly cannot. We used the high gloss.