Circa 1850 Tung Oil is a natural oil extracted from the nut of the oriental tung tree. Tung Oil has been used for centuries to protect and beautify wood.
Thinned for easier application, Circa 1850 Tung Oil penetrates deep into the pores of wood to strengthen the wood fibers to provide the low-luster, hand-rubbed finish you'd expect from a master craftsman. Circa 1850 Tung Oil protects wood from accidental spills and water marks. Made by Swing Paints.
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Avoid working in direct sunlight or wind. Circa 1850 Tung Oil is only to be applied onto bare, stained, or previously oiled wood surfaces - never over any other type of finish. Use Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner to remove dirt and polish. Wipe on a liberal amount of Tung Oil using a lint-free cloth. Let the oil penetrate for at least 10 minutes and then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. On open grain or oily woods, such as oak, ash, walnut, mahogany, etc., wipe again after 20 minutes. Let dry for 24 hours. To smooth out the surface between coats, buff lightly with Circa 1850 Finishing Pads or steel wool (0000). Apply a second coat in the same manner as the first. To obtain a finish that is a bit shinier, a third and fourth coat may be applied, always waiting 24 hours between coats.
can I buy teak oil by the gallon ?
Yes that's the way I buy it from Jamestown Distributors.
is it raw or Polymerized?
Hello. I am not 100% sure on that one. I am thinking it was raw. Hope this is helpful. It was a great product.
can I use this to finish a bathroom vanity?
Sure, I would think so. You just might need to dilute it with mineral spirits for the first coat or two, and then allow adequate drying time for each coat. Make sure to wipe on and wipe off for smooth finish, sanding between coats, increasing your grit with each step.
Yes you may. I would suggest putting several coats on due to tje moisture.
Yes, it is by far the best finish for a bathroom vanity cabinet. Make sure that your wood is raw and contains no other finishes. If you are going to stain the piece first, apply the stain and be certain that the stain is dry and no longer gassing off. I typically apply 3 coats using the gloss tung oil for the sealer coat. The following 2 coats can be the desired sheen. When applying, wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth such as white cotton stain rags, which are actually t shirt material. Do not use a t shirt which has been treated with fabric softener. Be absolutely certain that the product is completely dry before applying another coat. Use steel wool and then a tack cloth between coats for a perfect finish.Good luck.
HiThe short answer is yes.I recommend finishing a piece of scrap to judge the result.I like Tung oil because it soaks in. Even hard wood appears to soak up a lot.My preferred method for Knife handles is to re apply every minute or so until the wood is pretty well saturated then wipe off and wait 24 hrs for the Tung oil is cured and reapply. always wiping off the excess before setting aside for 24 hrs.Good luckDennis
If it is going to get wet, you will probably want to use polyurethane. You can do both. Tung oil penetrates and adds color. 2 coats Tung oil plus 2 coats of polyurethane will provide better protection from water.
Is this product 100% tung oil?
Sorry I dont know if it is 100%
To be honest I don't think it is Minwax Tung oil is better but significantly more money. For a big project I would use this again but fumes are a killer. Needs plenty of drying time and time to air out. Fine for shop work but definately not in house use!
The Material Safety Data Sheet indicates that Circa 1850 Tung Oil contains Hydrotreated Light Petroleum Distillates and Stoddard Solvent. I assume that these are to thin the Tung Oil to a usable viscosity. That being said, I have used this product extensively to finish pine floors and furnitureand other projects that are indoors, as Tung oil provides no UV protection. I have found the to be a superior finish, easy to use and easy to touch-up if needed. I am assuming that this product is as pure as any Tung Oil on the market.
what type of oil would be best to waterproof an outdoor porch floor made of cedar? we do not want any poly's for they may peel. what about tung oil or linseed? Thank you for all your help.
I have used tung oil very successfully for indoor pine floors. It is a very forgiving finish in that application. I personally would hesitate to use it in an application exposed to the weather and UV , as there are no UV filters. There are other non-poly products that contain UV filters.One might try tung oil on a small area to experiment in an area exposed to the elements. If you are happy withthe results, it is an easy product to apply.
I would fall back to my old tried and true wood finish. I call it 1,2,3.3 parts pure linseed or tung oil2 parts turpentine.(not mineral spirits)1 part spar varnishYou can use it on virtually anything from furniture to shake shingle roofs to garden tool handles. Spray,brush or wipe on.
Is Tung Oil suitable for treating the hull of a wooden boat?
Hi,I'm a woodworker and use it on furniture. But here's my guess: its not good for the hull of a boat. Not tough enough. I would recommend Epifanes varnish over a coat of epoxy.
Tung oil does not contain UV inhibitors. It is great for areas not exposed to sunlight. I have used it on pine floors with great success, but have not used it on my boats. I believe that there are other products that would provide a more durable finish for boat hulls.
Is this good for untreated outdoor teak furniture?
Yes, it would be very good for that purpose.
Can tung oil be used on new cedar fence to protect and preserve the wood color? Or, can you suggest another protect for same? Thank you
I wouldn't use tung oil for any outside finish, unless as a primer for a quality varnish. For what you're planning, I would use a sealer-type product, like those sold in 5 gallon buckets at home improvement stores for use on decks, etc. Tung oil does not last long when exposed to sunlight, and is much more expensive.
From what I know about natural oils, they are "porous", and do not handle water well. If it is outside, I think the elements would break it down. Cedar weathers well on it's own. Olympic oil stain use to be a great product, but I think they were bought out. 1st choice, do nothing. 2nd choice - apply solid oil house stain. Grey weathers well. Other colors need more recoating.
Yes, it should work fine. You'll have to recoat it from year to year.
I have now put on 4 coats on cherry but it has not started to build up at all. Any comments?
I first used this product in 1994 on butternut raised paneling and mahogany veneered house doors. In those applications, I applied 3 or 4 coats initially and then applied 1 coat per year. This tung oil soaks in quite a bit and while you'll eventually get a very pretty sheen, it won't provide the hard finish of some of the other (polymerized) tung oils. We used it on fir, eastern larch, oak, chestnut, butternut, mahogany, and cherry. All interior woodwork. The cherry and mahogany did gather the nice satiny sheen faster than the other woods. Like other tung oils, the finish will benefit from a renewing coat each year. I still prefer this particular tung oil as an easily maintained oil finish for use in the home.
HATTERY MAHDEE PROJECT
My problem with this product is that after a couple of years, it started to get sticky, primarily in areas where the sun hit the oak floor.
It soaks in.... it isn't a polyurathean that sits on top.
its not like urethane. did you fine sand it?
From my experience, tung oil is a very "thin" product, meaning is soaks deep into tiny pores in the wood. What I do is use a starter coat consisting of maybe 1/2 tung oil and 1/2 varnish (the real stuff, like Mcloskeys, not poly). I'm just guesing that the varnish clogs up the pores and has some drying agents in it. After one or two coats of this mix of tung oil and varnish, then I just keep putting coats down, seing as tung oil is so easy to add coats, i.e. no sanding.It took four coats (two with the special mix) to get a minimal surface on my white oak flooring. In a year or two, I'm going to put another one or two coats on. What nice about tung oil is that you con't have to remove it all to add more coats.
Tung oil is the only oil that I am aware of that will actually seal wood if enough coats are applied. I have found that it can be a long process to allow each coat to dry (waiting until the smell is gone) and apply enough coats until there is the desired buildup This may require 5-10 coats. Exotic woods such a Coco Bolo may contain a lot of oil and any applied Tung oil would require several days or a week to dry Other special coatings such as Water Lox build up and seal much faster because of the ingredients added to the Tung oil.Curt
The Circa 1850 Tung Oil IS NOT PURE tung oil, it is tinned with some kind of tinner, you can find it on the can.Because it is tinned it does not have the same build up character as a pure tung oil which is much thicker.I hope this helps.
Do you need to add a coat of varnish after using Tung Oil?
I used tung oil and citrus oil on freshly sanded oak and maple flooring, 1 to 1 mix. The flooring is at a beach house. I felt a hard finish would be hard to maintain with the sand from the beach. I can retouch with the mix. IF you seal the tung oil with varnish you will have to continue using varnish. With tung oil and citrus oil I can retouch wipe up the excess and use the floor.
I think definitely no! That would defeat the purpose of using Tung oil. I have had some problems with application and getting an even look. I am resolving my problems, but if you are unsure and unfamiliar with the product, do some research. You might want to use a product called Waterlox which doesn't need as much "fussing."
It depends. This product is thinned with solvent. Therefore it will penetrate the wood and you could stop there if all you want is a penetrating finish. You have fully penetrated the wood when the oil is no longer absorbed by the wood and starts to leave a film on the surface. If you want to go further, you could continue with coats that build on the surface. This can be achieved with tung oil or varnish. If you choose varnish, stay compatible by using an oil based product. An oil based varnish will work fine if you want a tougher top coat. Its tougher because the varnish has resin i.e .(phenolic, alcid, or poly) added to the oil.
No. You may wish to wax the item after you have a sufficient oil buildup. I would only do this on furniture though.
So sorry this answer is late. I was travelling.I'm no ex[pert but can speak from my experience. I think the answer to your question depends entirely on what you're finishing with the oil. I've used it for wood furniture and unless the surface will be subject to moisture, no other finish is necessary. We've also used it on our floors. In the kitchen, I ended up adding an oil-based polyurethane because of water splashes and traffic wear. A word of warning: where we used it on the floor that was exposed to sunlight (near windows) the oil finish became viscous and sticky and I am now stripping it off (with alcohol and steel wool) and will replace it with a polyurethane finish. It is a gorgeous finish on well sanded wood. Adding sequential light coats of oil until the wood can absorb no more creates a gorgeous finish. Hope this helped. Best wishes
1850 Tung Oil
Love this product - quick and easy to apply and leaves a great finish. Jamestown Distributors is very fast at getting the product to you after ordering!!!!!
circa 1850 tung oil
this is the worst tung oil I'v ever used, if I still had the box and packing I;d sent it back for a refund.
Maple and Oak Floors
Instructions are on point. Apply tung oil with sponge mop diluted with turpentine or citrus oil, half and half first coat, then dilute more. Less is better. Apply and wipe up excess with lint free cloth within 10 minutes as per the instructions. Get beautiful aged finish, not glossy.
I purchased this product under the asumption that it was pure tung oil only to find it was a mix of oils. I was needing approx. 36 gal to put on my house. It would be helpful if the product was not labeled tung oil if in fact it is not.
The finish with this product is superior to any other. With several coats the patina on new wood looks aged. It is a wonderful product.
Bob the finisher
No doubt a great product.
This product is fast and easy to work with. Great penetration, brought out the color and grain of my ash paneling.
I plan to use this product again!
Cleaned wooden cabinets in kitchen with tsp, touched up stain, then applied circa 1850 tung oil. Just wiped on...no need to empty cabinets, no paint brush , no sanding between coats....So easy and really superior results! I am planning to try on woodwork and more in the future...Make sure you get the 100% tung oil...it may not be as "hardy" as some other finishes, but it sure is easy!
satin smooth finish
I wanted to finish the mahogany of the interior of my boat with a soft, warm feel not the hard glossy look typical of gloss varnishes. Using this oil on bare wood surfaces has resulted in a wonderfully soft-to-the-touch, low sheen, moisture resistant finish as well as revealing the inherent beauty of the wood.I have learned techniques that fill the pores easily and with each subsequent application the oil brings the wood to life.