Pine Tar is a traditional coating used on wood and metal. Pine Tar has been used for waterproofing the insides and outsides of boats for hundreds of years, dating at least as far back as the Vikings in the 9th century.
Pine Tar is a classic preservative for wood and natural fiber rope. Pine Tar is also used for wood preservation on utility and fence poles and wood shingles. Pine Tar is a safe and effective substitute for pressure treated lumber.
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
Genuine Pine Tar is also a topical antiseptic used by horsemen to combat fungicidal and bacterial infections in horse's hooves.
Helps keep hooves elastic and flexible.
Promotes new hoof growth.
Effective treatment for quarter cracks, split hooves and hard frogs.
There are many recipes for 'boat soup' and homemade varnishes that include Pine Tar. Mix Pine Tar with Japan drier, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine in appropriate quantities and proportions for a traditional varnish. See the recipe shown below.
JD Homemade Varnish Recipe: An Old Down East Deck Coating Formula
Used on wooden decks for schooners, fishing boats, and porch decks. Makes for an amber finish. To customize the mixture, add more pine tar for a darker color or add less for a lighter color. Allow more drying time for the darker mixture.
* Covers approximately 100 square feet.
Boiled Linseed Oil
Number Of Parts:
1. Is it creosote free? Is it suitable to make pine tar soap?
You'd have to ask customer service at Jamestown Distributors about that. I do not work for them...I'm just a customer that has purchased the Pine Tar in the past.
As I live in Hong Kong, can Pine tar oil be delivered to Hong Kong?
We have been using this product to make Pine Tar Soap for the past 8yrs with no problems. Our customers love it and keep coming back for more as it seems to help them with their skin issues. Good Luck,Watch City Soaps
My experience with Bickmore's Pine Tar is that it is a natural product derived from pine resins. As advertised on the can it contains 100% pine tar resin. Jamestown's website does advise to add petroleum products to the product creates a more suitable for application to wooden boats. This is to overcome the natural pine tar's tendency to retain viscous for long periods of time. You may also wish to read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)of which you will find a link on JamestownÂ’Â¢??s Pine Tar product web page.
Will pine tar stop sap dripping from large limb futon pine tree?
I looked on the internet for uses and saw nothing about that. The closest I found was its use on horse hooves. I got it to use as a base on wooden cross country skis. I realize this is of no use to you.
Pine tar is most effective when applied in thin coats with a disposable brush. Wait a day and ad another if you think you need it put one coat has done it for me. Yes, it will eventually harden and stop dripping.
As pine tar is mainly used in large wooden boat bilges, I really do not think that it will do anything to help the above situation.
Can you paint over a surface treated with a half & half mixture of pine tar & raw linseed oil? I would like to treat my 150 yr old barn, all ancient and grey barn wood, with the above mixture, but then I will also want to paint it red to match the other barns in this area.
We use a 50/50 (linseed oil and turpentine) solution on wood .This really works well in preserving it.The turpentine thins and allows the linseed oil to absorb into the wood faster.It also dries faster.I have had great results with applying paint over this dried application.You might try to thin the pine tar so it will soak in and dry faster. An old shovel handle would be great to experiment on
I didnt really answer you question. Red barn paint would not like to be put on over pine tar and linseed oil. I think you would be better served to spray the old dry barnwood with and oil based preservative that is paintable. Woods like cedar siding, wont let paint attach due to the oils in the siding itself, so I am guessing it wont work. Maybe try linseed oil and turpentine mix 1:2
I think that the pine tar would prevent paint from properly adhering to the wood.
p.s. I would be painting with linseed oil paint over the pine tar?
Thank you Stuart! You guessed right ;-)
I don't know what your full question was but I imagine you want to know if you can use a linseed oil based paint over Pine Tar. I haven't personally done so but I can't see why you can't. The Pine Tar I used was mixed with Linseed Oil before I applied it to the decking and they are clearly compatible.
Sheridan, I was asked to answer this because I bought a can of pine tar from Jamestown several years ago. I got it to use on the soles of my wooden cross country skis. Painted on and burned in with a torch and then wiped off it makes a good protective base wax will stick to. I've never tried to paint over it. I presume linseed oil might stick to it, or more likely soak in with it. I've used boiled linseed oil on a rifle stock with a good result. Before taking any advice I'd try it on scrap wood and see for myself. On reading this, I realize it is likely of no help to you. I'll send it anyway.
We used the pine tar on the keel scarfs as we rebuild an old oyster dragger circa 1925. It was liberally applied to the ends of the white oak frames where they attached to the keel. This was easily done in the early stage where you could actually walk between the frames. I also believe they used it putting together the stem. Come to Oyster Bay, LI and see our progress.
My boat is finished with a 50/50 mixture of pine tar and tung oil. I would think linseed oil would be equally compatible with pine tar. The one thing to watch out for is that pine tar does not really "cure" unless it get's direct sunlight.
Wish I could help, I use it for topical use in a salve. My thoughts would be that the surface of the pine tar might not hold up well to the paint? Are you staining the canvas with the pine tar first? then wiping it off?
does this pine tar have creosote in it????
Wood tar creosote is a natural part of pine tar. Coal tar creosote is obtained from coal, and is a more toxic substance. See the wicipedia entry for "creosote"
@Harriet, no. Pine tar is a natural derivative of pine trees.
is your pine tar creosote free?
The label shows pine tar only. The smell is not as pine scented as other pine tars I use for X country ski bases for example.
R. G. HEST
There is no creosote in the pine tar. I use it on decks when mixed with other ingredients and there is no harm walking barefoot. Totally safe.
I cannot locate my can of leftover Brickmoore Pine Tar, so am unable to check the label; however, I remember the stuff emitted a strong odor resembling Creosote-treated railroad ties.
Does this pine tar state on the label that it does not contain creasote?
No it doesn't state that. I would consider pine tar to be very similar to creosote though (positive and negative).
Carol -- sorry for the delay.there is no explicit statement about creosote. It does state pine tar and other inert ingredients.What most folks use this for would imperil the animal if creosote was an ingredient -- I use this as part of a solution to preserve wood tools, parts of boats and the shingle siding on my home -- and it is great for those uses.Hope this is useful
R. G. HEST
Not sure..I bought it about two years ago and used it all up..
Creosote is made by the distallation of tar. If pine tar were distilled, one of the products would be creosote. There are two types of creosote, wood creosote and coal creosote. I am assuming that you are worried about the carcinogenic properties of coal tar creosote.
The label does not state the absence of creosote. The only ingredient listed is Pine Tar.We have used this product as a wood preservative ingredient for 10 years to protect wood items in our garden. We have never observed a problem with Pine Tar and our plantings. The definition of Pine Tar is the same as that of creosote: Pine Distillate. Our wood preservative recipe is the same mixture used historically by the British Royal Navy. Our Climate, New Mexico, is extremely harsh on wood. Very little Pine Tar is used but still our recipe works extremely well whereas the alternatives are far more questionable. We feel that the amount of pine distillates in the recipe is not meaningfully different than that found in wood mulch.The recipe given on the Jamestown website is equivalent to the British Navy recipe used for wooden ships. Use less pine tar for a lighter color. Buff with sandpaper before all coats; The value of this recipe is in it's excellent penetration qualities. Always do more than two coats and allow to dry completely between coats.
I want to make wood planter boxes and want to tar the inside to protect it from rot is this best product? I do not want to go with plastic or clay
Patrick M, this will do the trick. Mix up a batch of high-strength "boat soup," two-parts pine tar, one-part turpentine, one-part raw linseed oil, with a dash of japan drier. Coat the inside of your boxes liberally and put in a sheltered place in the shop or garage to dry for a couple of days. Re-coat as needed. Allow to dry sufficiently so the coating won't abrade with the soil or a stray stone. I won't vouch for a soft-wood like SPF, but this should hold up for a while with harder woods.
Pine tar would work, but creosote might be better.
I teach printmaking at Weber State University and used this as part of an etching ground. I am sure this is not a typical use for your product, but there it is!
I cannot say for certain, but wood pitch was used to preserve the wood of Norway's medieval stave churches for hundreds of years. So, I think it's worth a try. This tar is not black like the tar used in street repair. I haven't personally used it for waterproofing.
I dont think it will be good for the plants, as it never dries and hardens. I would call your local Agiriculural extension agent for the best thing you could use.Ii only use the pitch tar for a nautical display. sorry i am not more help
Yes, however you must apply it to all hidden surfaces and outside as well as inside box, before assembly. Then very important to let it bake in the sun for a day, this lets all aromatics evaporate so as to make a healthier planter for your desired plants. Do not thin the pine tar with anything other than real turpentine. Mineral spirits and other paint thinners leave contaminants.
Patrick, I used the PINE TAR on the back of a bench that was exposed to a damp dirt situation. I found that after several days of letting it stand before installing the bench the Pine Tar was not dry. I don't know if it ever dried after the bench was installed. I don't know if putting it on the inside of a planter would be wise not knowing how the plants would react to it but on the outside should keep water from seeping into the wood. If it doesn't dry as I found I'd be careful where I sit the planters. I will be using it on some treated posts as extra protection when I put them into the ground to help keep water from being drawn into the post and hopefully making the posts last much longer. I hope this answer helps.
Is the can resealable. If not, what about pouring it into a mason jar and sealing the rest that way?
Yes its resealable.
It's just a paint can, but the stuff doesn't evaporate or set up anyway.
The 1 gallon can is essentially a paint can with a resealable lid.
The tar comes in a paint can and is easily sealed
ERIC VAN DORMOLEN
As I recall, the can is resealable, just like a paint can. A mason jar lid would get too gooey, so I would rule that out.
Yes you can just the lid back on the can pine tar will be fine never drys up
can this product be used on wood exterior support beams at beach house ?
sure, it is an old-world varnish, a great preserver. However, it is viscous like honey so needs cutting with turpentine to work well and even then it should be heated (very carefully) to allow it to flow well. a old-worl varnish recipe goes something like: one part turpentine, one part linseed oil and one part pine tar. Expect your exterior surfaces to turn black over time when using pine tar.
im not sure, i use it for topical treatment of psoriasis.
Whoops! I forgot to mention the turpentine! My preferred ratio is 1 of pine tar to 1.5 - 2 of turpentine, 1.5 -2 of raw linseed oil, and 10% japan drier. Feel free to experiment - your mileage may vary ...
I live about a quarter mile from the ocean and have been using pine tar to make a varnish for the support beams and deck on the outside for the last four years. So far, everything has worked out very well.
I've only used it as an additive to linseed oil (with turps) to make a deck oil for use on a workboat. The pine tar by itself will remain goopy (and "fragrant") I would tend to choose something else for your use.
Yes, thinned with raw linseed oil and japan drier. A peridodic recoat will be required, and it takes forever to dry, but pine tar provides the base for a number of good old-time deck, beam and preservation remedies.The Jamestown catalogue has some of the ratios for mixing, and I have also found some on-line. A common formula for the above-mix is 3:1:10% raw linseed oil to pine tar to japan drier, adding more or less of each to suit.
I would avoid it, Pine tar has a strong oder. I think Boiled linseed oil it best for you. At NY Maritime Restoration we use on aboard a tall ship to protect the standing rigging.Unless you like the oder, in Maine you can buy Pine Tar soap.
ERIC VAN DORMOLEN
Absolutely but after a season it turns dark - almost black (think railroad ties). I use it mixed with boiled linseed oil and turpentine on my traditional cedar skiffs and it's a wonderful preservative but it the surface will appear to age because it turns black.
grrrrrreat stuff but a bit sticky.
atlanta , ga
WE NOTICED THAT IT WAS ALREADY THINNED TO A USABLE CONSISTENCY, AS WE APPLY IT TO OUR HORSES HOOVES. IT SPREAD EASILY AND STAYED IN PLACE WELL. [...]
Great product, fit the bill
Great product just as described. Good consistency and makes great soap. Takes a litte work to clean up. I will purchase again.
Great waterproofing product
Great product for homemade varnish to waterproof decks. Has an excellent consistency for mixing with boiled linseed oil. Note, paint thinner works just as well as turpentine and dries just a tad faster.
Works on wooden skis
Wikipedia says that pine tar was used to treat wooden skis in the past. I treated them a couple weeks ago, so I guess I'd say that is the recent past. I went skiing and had fun, so I'd say the product met my expectations.
Saint Paul, MN
is this pine tar???
I use it in wood boats and I just smelled it and it dosn't smell like the pine tar I get from other sources. runny also. maybe this shoud be stuck with horses feet like the lable says. It need to serve its purpuse and smell good too.
Bickmore Pine Tar
Pine Tar is a great product to add a nice brown color to natural wood and protect the wood from the elements. The problem I have with Bickmore Pine Tar is the smell. Stockholm pine tar has a nice pine odor. Bickmore has a very strong smell that is anything but the smell of pine. So be prepared to air out the garage after using it. Whatever you do don't try to paint over a wood surface that has been coated with pine tar. The paint will not dry properly. That also goes for varnish.
Grass Valley Ca
North East weather is hard on porch floors. The summer sun can UV/bake the best finish. Fall rains can soak the floor repeatedly. Slushy wet snow can lay on it for days. Pre-painted mahoghany is just not up to the task. And I can't afford the plastics. What to do?I looked at Jamestown's traditional coating recipe and some others. The consensus out there seems to be for repeated "soaker" coats followed by a "finish" coat.I took two Jamestown one-quart plastic containers with lids. In one, I put 10 oz Raw Linseed Oil, 10 oz Pure Gum Turpentine and 4 oz Pine Tar, for a "soaker" batch. In the other, I put 10 oz Boiled Linseed Oil, 10 oz Pure Gum Turpentine and 4 oz Pine Tar, and a dash of Japan Drier, for a "finishing" batch.The "finish" was applied to the tops of the treated joists, open grain of the decking on the house side and the bottom of the flooring. The "soaker" batch was applied repeatedly to the flooring tongue and groove, and to the top surface and open end grain. After the walking surface looked dry - some time later - I'd hit it again with the soaker. After rejection, that is, no more soaker coat being absorbed, I finished it. Caution: follow up with a soaker coat on a periodic basis, especially on the end grain. This will give one a dark porch floor over time. But it will be as weatherly as a frigate's squared yards.