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With Tee Nuts you can put a threaded hole wherever you want them! A lot outdoor projects like swing sets garden carts are put together using these. Drill a pilot hole for the body of the nut and then hammer it into place. The objective of course is to install it so that the screw or bolt pulls the nut into the wood.
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MET / STD:
what is the stainless steel grade of your t nuts? 18-8, 304 or 316?
They are 18-8 stainless. All fasteners that do not specify being 316 stainless are 18-8.
JD Tech Associate
Don't mean to sound dumb but is the flange side supposed to show (on the underside of a chair bottom) or just the hole where the bolt goes in? Wish I could find a picture.
I don't understand how you what you are trying to do. The flange should be on the opposite side of the hole from where the threaded shaft/bolt/rod/whatever enters. This is so that the tension on the threads pulls the flange into the wood and not out of it. So if you have a chair leg with a metal threaded rod for attachment, the flange would go on the top of the chair bottom. If you are attaching similarly equipped back or armrest supports, the flange would go on the bottom of the chair bottom. It you put the flange on the same side as what you are attaching, it will pull the tee nut out. If you need to have a threaded attachment that can be inserted from the same side as the threaded connection rod, you need a threaded insert. I could not find these on the Jamestown website, but if you Google "threaded inserts for wood" plenty will pop up.-If you explain the problem clearly and thoroughly, you might get a better answer. I hope this helps.
Drill your hole, insert T-Nut underneath securing with screw from the top! Hope this helps.
The flange goes under the bottom of the substrate you are using to mount to. All you see from the top is a hole in the wood. You can not post pics or links here. Wish you could it would sure be a lot easier to understand.
the flange goes on inside of the bottom so only the hole is visible after the cushion
So you are saying... at the top where the foam for the seat is is the hole...where the chair legs are attached is where the flange is?Really feeling dumb!
Thanks so much for your help...got it now.
The bolt should be screwed in from the non flange sideThe material you are attaching to should be sandwiched between the flange and the bolt
The t- nut is located on the inside of the hole. Opposite of the bolt. When tightening the bolt it should pull the t-nut into the hole. Most time you never see the flange when the job is done.
I can se why you would be confused. If you are talking about mounting a seat to a pedestal then my description is upside down. I was thinking you were talking about mounting a pedestal to a sole. If you are mounting a seat to a pedestal, then yes the flange will go on the top side of the seat substrate under the foam with the threaded portion of the tee nut extending down into the hole. Then a bolt can be inserted up from the bottom, through the pedestal and threaded into the t nut. Try searching google for "How to install T-nuts." There are many good pictures on woodworking and climbing wall sites showing how they work.
I am using these to build a climbing wall and was wondering if the coarseness of the threads is an issue? i am using pretty fine thread bolts on these
Coarse vs fine thread is a good argument among engineers. Be sure to use compatible (ss) coarse/fine thread bolts. It's also a good idea to use a thread locker (permatex) with ss to prevent gauling (sp?).
Like any nut, the thread needs to match the thread on the bolt, in both diameter and pitch. Check the specs on the bolts you have and the nuts you are buying.
Tristin,Your threads need to match the bolt you are using. Provided these match you should be ok.
Standard machine screw or bolt thread should be fine. The bolts on your climbing hardware should be fine provided they are relatively standard and don't require specialty nuts. Take one of your bolts to the local hardware store and try a standard nut/thread if that works you'll be OK
The T-nuts have standard 1/4-20 threads. If your bolts are 1/4-28 there will be a problem
I would not use Tee Nuts as an anchor system for a climbing wall. You may want to consider an "anchor type" system rather than a securing system. You need further research. Good Luck
The thread count is listed in the product size which is in the format dd-tt ht10-24 has 24 TPI1/4-20 has 20 TPI.This is the same nomenclature that is used for the machine screws or bolts that you would use with the tee nuts
I doubt that the use of fine or coarse threads makes much difference as long as the bolts are large enough in diameter. For a climbing wall I'd use a bit of overkill in the bolt size. Of course, the threads of the bolts and nuts must be the same. If you already have bolts, then you can only use nuts with the exact same thread (coarse, fine or other). Pardon me if this seems patronizing; the question isn't very clear.
Can you use it with fiberglass where you cant reach behind it to place a nut?
Don't know about use with fiberglass, but it installs on the bolt surface.
I drilled a hole large enough for the major circumference of the tee nut, waxed a long, appropriately sized bolt with the tee nut threaded onto the end inserted it, tee nut first into the hole and then poured epoxy into the hole until the hole was filled. Once the epoxy set I was able to turn the bolt out of the hole and tee nut and reinsert a like-diameter & thread bolt.
My best guess is NO, not directly on fiberglass. The T Nut is anchored to the back side of the material (usually wood) so that you may insert a machine screw into the top side. The T Nut is tapped in place to anchor it. However, you can draw the anchors up into the wood by placing a washer and then machine screw tight on the top side to secure anchors to wood. Hope this helps.
I imagine you could. Though you would want to minimize the torque you put on the bolt you put into it as you may end up spinning the t-nut and creating a mess on the T-nut side of the fiberglass.
I don't see why it wouldn't work with fiberglass.
I can't speak to its use in fiberglass generally, but this nut had to be installed from the rear side, so no.
You would still have to reach behind to place the Tee nut unless you could place it before you lose access. Don't Know what you're doing and if the fiberglass is too thin the spikes on the Tee nut may cut through.
If I understand your dilemma, my answer would be "probably not". You still have to reach behind the panel to put the t-nut in place. Also, the prongs on the t-nut will not penetrate fiberglass. Good luck
I do not think it can be used with fiberglas if the fibreglas has already set (the prongs need to get a bite, so it is appropriate for wood or other soft materials).I'm not sure what you mean by "you can't reach behind it to place a nut" -- the Tee nut has to be on the opposite side of the wood from the bolt. So: Tee nut>wood>bolt. NOT: Bolt>Tee nut>wood.Clear as mud, you're welcome.
What grade of stainless is it? I need 316 grade
The grade of stainless is 18-8
How can one prevent the bolt from coming through the top of the S/S Tee Nut? I am going to use this under a padded panel and do not want the bolt to protrude into the padding?
Thank you for your response. I think your suggestion of a carriage bolt is the way to go. I can counter sink the carriage bolt into the composit and work from there.
I don't mean to be flip, but you either buy the right length of bolt, or cut a longer one down.
I assume you put the padding on after installation of the Tee nut.I have ground the bolts off flush with a cutting wheel. I have even fiber glassed over the Tee nuts after grinding flush.
I will be using a threaded shaft through the Tee Nut with the Tee Nut acting like the head of a bolt. Tee Nut will be on top of a board and the threaded shaft will pass through a bulkhead where it will receive the washer and nut. When I tighten the nut, how do I prevent the shaft from turning in the Tee Nut and protruding past the board?
It's a measuring game; add the length of the thread on the Tee Nut and add the thickness of the materials your bolt shaft is passing thru. Then either buy your bolt(s) to this length or cut down a longer bolt(s) to the desired length.If your cutting down a longer bolt, a little trick so you don't mess up the threads while cutting is to run a nut down the threads before cutting and leave it there while you cut the bolt shaft off. This way after you've made the cut you simply remove the nut and it will open up any messed up threads.
Basically you will need a bolt with the length that is equal to the thickness of what the Tee nut is inserted in plus the thickness of what ever the bolt is going through. If you cannot find a bolt that matches the length you need just stack washers under the head of the bolt. If that doesn't work for you, then you will need to hacksaw a bolt to the length you need. Just be sure to thread a nut onto the bolt before you cut it off. When you remove the nut it will straighten the threads where you made the cut. Hope this helps.
I'm not sure I understand the application, but it sounds like you should be using a carriage bolt instead of a T nut and threaded rod, or just run a hex head bolt into the T nut instead of rod with a nut on the other end. I don't understand why you need to use a rod with nuts on both ends. If you must use threaded rod, put a jam nut (a second nut tightened against the first) on the end opposite the T nut to allow you to tighten the rod without moving the other nut.
Select the correct length bolt.
All you can do is watch the bolt length. I like to use as long a t-nut length as I can to give more room for the bolt to grab.
Er, use a shorter bolt?Or use washers under the bolt-head.
I need 1/4 in. T nuts for my boat in salt water. Are these S/S T nuts suitable for boats used in Saltwater, above the water line?
I think so......I used them to secure my out board motor brackets on the transom of a boat I intend to use in salt water.
Although the stainless steel type was not listed on the tee nuts I purchased, another purchaser who bought a whole box found a 18-8 designation on the box. The 18-8 is a commonly used alternative name for either 301 (correct) or 304 (common misuse) stainless. Traditional "marine grade" stainless is 316. Although 316 has only a little more nickel than 301 or 304 (actually less nickel than some forms of 304), it (316) does have enough molybdenum in it to provide substantially better corrosion resistance. BUT, I looked for 316 tee nuts and could not find them even advertised beyond small, expensive amounts in small sizes. As is so often the case, the best available hardware at a reasonable price was at Jamestown. I put a coat of Tef-Gel on the screw and over the tee nut. So far, so good.
I have never seen another better option. Salt water is a harsh environment, but SS is the superior choice. Recommend same quality stainless screw and using an anti seize thread compound if the screw is going to be removed.
Yes, they work wonderful in salt water also. We use these for seat upholstery and side panels mostly, Never been an issue.
Yes, I used them on my Tartan 30
I think so. They're 18-8, while not as durable as 316 they should be fine if not constantly exposed. FWIW, I've used a bunch of them on my boat's interior. No problems yet...
Stainless steel is very good for this. Since Jamestown carries them I would guess that they are made from quality SS, 18-8 or better
stainless steel nuts and bolts will eventually corrode or rust......have you given any thought to trying brass or bronze?
do you know what kind of stainless steel the t-nut are made from for example 304 or 316???
The box I bought in 2010 is labelled "18-8" stainless steel. I don't know if any changes have been made since then, but I do know that no rust has appeared on the ones I installed on my boat three years ago.
I have no idea what type or that there are different types. I know they worked perfectly for me. I was recovering boat seats that had foam on wood and hinges that needed to be attached.
What is the thread count? Can't find it anywhere.
Depends on the size.Look at the listing i.e.: 10/32, 1/4-20, etc
Its there, right on the drop down menu!It is standard 20 count (threads per inch)
24The thread count is the second number. Here the t nut is 1/4" diameter and 24 tpi
The thread count is listed in the product size which is in the format dd-tt ht10-24 has 24 TPI1/4-20 has 20 TPI.This is the same nomenclature that is used for the machine screws or bolts that you would use with the tee nuts.
Do you also offer 7/16" T-nuts?Dave Olsen
can you get half inch screw on t-nuts
We do not have the 7/16".
I would buy this product again.
Replaced the old rotted steel t nuts holding the boat seat to the deck.
Great for outdoor climbing walls
I used the 3/8"-16 SS t-nuts for an outdoor climbing wall. The barrel on these t-nuts is thicker than others I've found, which seems good for durability. I used a 1/2" spade bit for the pilot hole, as opposed to the usual 7/16" bit for most other 3/8"-16 t-nuts. Not sure where they sourced these, but they are definitely the most robust 4-prong, SS t-nuts I've found. Good price, to boot!
7/16 are excellent; 5/16 are not
I purchased the 1/4-20 5/16 and 7/16.I recommend the 7/16, which are bright, shiny and unaffected by a strong magnet. I do not recommend the 5/16, which are a much duller color and stick aggressively to a strong magnet..
Quality and price
Rod holder project on a long range fishing boat.
Chino Hills, Ca.
Great for a climbing wall
I used these t nuts to bolt climbing holds on a outdoor climbing wall i built for my kids. I purchased other "stainless" t nuts for cheaper elsewhere. These are so much better. You can see they are actually thicker gauge at the threads. I had more difficulty hammering them in place but i will take anyday over replacing them in the future. The prongs were longer also which help to keep them in place. I put these, the aforementioned "stainless", and zinc coated in and out of a salt/rusty water bath for a few weeks. These have no rust. Zinc are covered in rust. "Stainless" have rust on the threads. These also are not magnetic. The others will stick to my fridge magnets. This price at Jamestown was less than anything i found on the web and the quality seems to there. I wish i had purchased these from the start. I know i will be purchasing more in the future when the cheap "stainless" start to rust. BTW i used 100 of these, 400 of the "stainless" and have 20 of these in reserve. I wish I had used all of these. Shipping was super fast.
Good value on fasteners from Jamestown
For projects requiring fasteners in quantities as little as the dozens, one can save money and have extra fasteners on hand by buying in quantity from Jamestown distributors.
Fast service. Good quality. Good price
We needed stainless steel t-nuts to go with the stainless steel bolts we use in our boat seats. To use non-SS t-nuts would cause dissimilar metals corrosion and the bolts would become impossible to remove without cutting them. We were thrilled to find that you carried what we needed!
PT Canvas Co
Port Townsend, WA
Glad I found these!
Used in rebuilding golf cart seats w/ treated plywood. Good quality and great price!
Great deal and fast shipping by James Town. Much cheaper than buying fasteners at [@]. [@] did not even carry this product in Stainless.