Brass Wood Screws Flat Head Slotted Drive These Brass Wood Screws have cut threads and the full-bodied diameter shank desired by boatbuilders. Unlike rolled thread screws with their reduced shank--these screws have a shank diameter that is the same size as the outside of the threads. This completely fills the clearance hole normally drilled for the shank thus creating a waterproof seal.
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MET / STD:
Wanted to ask how the quality is on these screws? I'll be using these for the hinges on all the 100-year-old doors in my homes, and they'll definitely need some torque to get them in. Obviously brass is a bit soft, and I'm just concerned about the heads getting stripped, etc. and not looking nice. Any feedback regarding their quality would certainly be appreciated.Thanks
I use the #9 brass screws for antique door hardware (generally 1880 to 1930). The quality of the screws is good but I drill a pilot hole for each and every screw. I use slotted screws solely because they are period-appropriate for my restorations of old houses. I'm generally working with oak or heart pine doors and casings so I'm fully aware that I could twist the head off a brass screw without a good pilot hole. The bronze silicone screws sold by Jamestown are very good as well, stronger than the brass screws, but not available in as many sizes.
Steven, thanks so much for your reply...it sounds like we're using these for the same purpose, so this was very helpful. In truth, I'll be screwing these into the old/original holes (so no need to pilot, per se), but I still know they're tough to get in. Plus, since I'm going into the original holes, I'm considering getting screws that are 1/4" longer just to make sure they're in there solidly.Regarding the bronze screws...do these look the same as brass? I see these are often listed on marine sites due to their corrosion-resistance, and simply didn't know if they might have a different look to them (which is important).Thanks again
Robbie,I find that many of the old holes are already stripped out so I use hardwood dowels and a good epoxy glue to fill them, and then I re-drill them.Generally, the silicone bronze screws are slightly more red in tonality; the brass are slightly more yellow. Nether is a perfect match for the old hardware, which was brass or -- in higher end applications -- bronze. But once the screws are installed, you don't really notice the color differences.Good luck with your project!
My hobby is restoring classic canoes. Many of these canoes are also 100 years old the the original brass fasteners must be replace. Many of the previous holes need to be filled and re-drilled. The first thing you need is the correct size flat blade screw driver, but that may not always be enough. I solved the problem by first using a stainless square drive, then replace it with the slotted brass so the only real stress on the screw head is at the very finish. But even with this method you can bung up the head, so buy more and replace it.The other less acceptable option would be silicon bronze.Paul
I used these screws to attach heavy triple-pane glass doors to a large commercial-size antique icebox I had refurbished. They look very attractive in the antique brass hinges, and I certainly felt they could be tightened adequately without damage to the screws themselves. I had refilled the existing screw holes with a soft wood putty, so refitting the screws gave a good, tight fit. I expect it should work well for your project as well.
as owner/architect, i used these screws in the reconstruction of a 150 year old house. i obtained solid brass hinges but they came with plated philips head screws, which didn't look original and couldn't be acid-etched like we did with the hinges. the quality of the screws from jamestown was fine; it was very hard to find solid brass #9 screws. we used #9 steel screws to prep every hole, that reduced the stress on the brass heads, which are inherently soft and there's not much you can do about that. there was very little if any damage to the heads, and i think the carpenters said they also waxed the threads of the brass screws. using the correct size drill bit for the wood species involved is important. our jambs were all heart pine, oak for example would have required a slighty bigger drill bit. in my experience, many people tend to use too small of a drill bit for the pilot holes. i always require a test of drill bit sizes for something like this. they also used a drill bit accessory to align the hole in the exact center of the hinge holes.