Dear Ms Cathy, We use a two-part paste consistency epoxy produced by Teak Deck Systems of Sarasota Florida. Our dream boat is a 40-year old Tayana 37 with teak decks. Last time around we installed perhaps 400 plugs. The epoxy adhesive woesn't fail. Good luck.

Wes Birdsong

I dippes them in varnish then tap them in. Once dry a sharp chisel hit gently with the palm of my hand. Sand them to match the contour and varnishPat

PATRICK RUSSO

I replaced the teak toe rail (Deck/Hull joint cap) all the way around my Pearson 365 a little over 2 yr.s ago and used a couple of hundred plugs. I used the West System G-Flex epoxy. Use a "acid brush" like the ones used by plumbers for spreading solder flux on copper pipe before soldering. I cut the bristles off short, about 1/4". Mix about 1/2 tablespoon of part A & part B and paint the bottom and bottom edge of the plug and insert it into the hole over the screw. Use a counter sink bit to drill the hole for the screw and the plug will fit tight. Let the epoxy cure and then cut the excess off with a sharp chisel or knife and lightly sand. Walla ! ! ! One plugged hole and it will stay for years.

NELSON TOLAR

I used water proof wood glue.

ROBERT WOLFLICK

West system epoxy 106 and hardener If the plugs are vertical or upside down add 406 microspores to thicken

ALAN BUCK

Outdoor or marine glue

Mel Ehrlich

Just a little bit of epoxy around the entire base of the bung. Tap lightly with a small hammer. After epoxy sets, sand any exposed bung .

HENRY MALKOWSKI

We epoxy the plugs in and shave and sand bungs flush to surrounding teak deck boards.

RANDEL BOSTWICK

Sorry, I don't have a good answer. I tried epoxy, urethane glue, and varnish. I cant say that one works better than the other.

DICK FRANKS

They are tapered to fit snuggly into the hole. Some people use a little glue or something as well, but generally just a good couple of hits with a hammer does the job.

STEVEN TOWER

I used waterproof wood glue and tapped them in with a hammer before cutting them off.

JOHN ZEHM

depends on what size counter sink you use not the screw head size, 3/8 might work just fine but 7/16 would be ok as well

PETER CLARKE

A #12 wood screw is less than a 1/4", and I don't know of any merchants that sell it. You'd have to make your own. Good luck !!

CHRISTOPHER CAPOTIS

We did our cockpit deck in teak, about 12'X 14' in all and used West System epoxy. We used no bungs though. Instead, we fastened each teak strip with 1"X2" pine pieces every 6"-8" or so with No. 8 common screws and used 3/4" washers to temporarily hold down the teak strips until the epoxy cured. After the deck was completed we filled in the 1/8" spaces between the teak strips with black caulking. Final step, sanded flush with 80 Grit sandpaper. That's about 15 years ago and still looks fine. I hope this helps you.Chris

CHRISTOPHER CAPOTIS

Hi I use water proof glue . Usuallly I put the glue on a small piece cardboard.I just dab the bottom of the bung, then I used a small wood matel to hit it in, I listen for the bung to stop light taps. When I cut the bungs , some use a chisel, put you can chip the bung and be lower than you want to be?I used a Chinese saw very fine and I lay it flat in the deck and cut off the head.Sometimes I reuse the cuts saves money. If you don't want to get saw marks on the teak. I use a small prices of thin flashing I use a hole punch and make a hole in it , then I slip it over the bug and cut the bung. Well hope this helps, signed Maverick.

KEVIN BREEN

For a high traffic application like a cockpit, I would recommend coating both the holes and the plugs in epoxy before hammering them in. The varnish method works for bright work applications where they will be recoated frequently, but I wouldn't recommend for a cockpit sole

KAREN MCEWEN

thanks, Robert. They are close enough that I might try sanding first. Appreciate your response; Springer

Springer Hunt

after securing plugs, each is adjusted to depth by cutting/shaving with sharp tool or knife

ROBERT NEMOTO

The depth of the bung does not matter. Just add glue, tap into place and let it cure. Then, if accessible, use a fine tooth wood saw and remove any of the bung that may protrude. Lastly, sand any rough edges that remain.

HENRY MALKOWSKI

Set with proper glue and align grain. After curing of glue trim to proper height with sharp wood chiselclose to final height and then sand to be flush.

MIKE WEBER

I use the 3/8 bungs, and they are about 1/2 thick, but it doesn't matter how thick they are. After you use a rubber mallet to pound the bung into place, you use a chisel to shave off the remaining bung so it is flush with the deck.

SHEPHERD GRIMES

Call or order on-line item # is BUNG12T

Rick White

I have recently performed the same project on my boat. I've found that there was no need to bore larger. Rather, i did find that countersinking a tad deeper allowed a more sound setting especially if the screwheads were originally showing shallow.

DAVID HEBERT

I use a Forstner bit of the same size to clean up the hole, apply a little aliphatic wood glue to the bung, and tap it in place. After the glue sets, you can either use a Japanese saw or sand the bung to make it flush. If you have a cored deck and are concerned about water infiltration, you might consider pulling the screws and rebedding them before replacing the bung. Good luck on your project; teak decks are well worth taking good care of.

JAMES PERRY

If the existing holes are tight for the current sized bungs, just replace them with the same size ... maybe use the same size countersink to clean up the hole. If the existing holes are loose, go up one size and cut a new clean hole with the properly sized countersink.

FREDERICK HABERLANDT

Not necessary to expand hole unless there is damage. Drill out the existing hole to the fastener, vacuum and replace.

HENRY MALKOWSKI

Moisture will cause the bungs to swell in the hole. A light coat of poly varnish should be all you needEnjoy

PETER ZAHN

Use any Wood Glue rated for Wet Applications such as Titebond III or an Epoxy.

WILLIAM CADDEN

I don't see why not - as for the glue, I would use a very small dab of epoxy on the bottom of the plug only. If they spend time in the water, the plugs, as well as the rest of the platform, should swell and hold them in place - the epoxy would really just hold them down in case the swelling started to push them out without any glue at all. Good luck!

WILLIAM MOONEY

Yes you can add those to a swim platform. I would use epoxy. Degrease with acetone or other and then glue shortly after if has evaporated. If the surface of the platform has ruts in it from age it will be hard to keep the epoxy from seaping in to those ruts.

CHRIS MAYS

only used above water but do not see why could not use in water. for my application, no glue was required since fit was very tight.

ROBERT NEMOTO

Yes I did, I used a waterproof resin glue. Worked out good, but I am in fresh water.

GAMPER LINGE JR.

The plugs I bought are 1/2" in diameter, and 1/2" deep.

CHARLES BLAND

Marta,They are generally 1/2 - 3/4 inch in length, depending on the plug diameter. If you want a perfect match with the wood you are using an option would be to buy a plug cutter and cut your own plugs from scraps of the wood you used for the project.

SEVILLE SIMONDS

The 7/16" bungs are 1/2" thick. They are cut across the grain (not end grain like dowels) so you can match the grain of the hole you are plugging.

JOHN LEMON

If you mean length - about 1/2. Or 5/8 inch as I remember

GEORGE BARRINGER

I do not know but why worry.If they are too short, then use one plug on top of another and fill up with expoxy.If they are too long, then either use a flexible Japanese saw to cut them down, use a chisel, or sand.They should be longer than the depth of the hole,

ALAN SUGARMAN

The plugs will vary in length. They will generally be no less than 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch in length.I attempt to match the grain and set the plug either by tapping it into place or applying Titebond sparingly, as you might need to remove the plug later, generally by drilling.I cut the plug flush using a 6 1/2 inch pullsaw.Good luckJim

JAMES JURICH