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Teak wood plugs or bungs are perfect for when the finished appearance is important. The flat-grained orientation of these plugs will allow you to match the grain and disguise the unwanted screw hole in teak wood trim.
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Bungs and Plugs
what is used to keep the bungs from coming out?
Dear Ms Cathy, We use a two-part paste consistency epoxy produced by Teak Deck Systems of Sarasota Florida. Our dream boat is a 40-year old Tayana 37 with teak decks. Last time around we installed perhaps 400 plugs. The epoxy adhesive woesn't fail. Good luck.
I dippes them in varnish then tap them in. Once dry a sharp chisel hit gently with the palm of my hand. Sand them to match the contour and varnishPat
I replaced the teak toe rail (Deck/Hull joint cap) all the way around my Pearson 365 a little over 2 yr.s ago and used a couple of hundred plugs. I used the West System G-Flex epoxy. Use a "acid brush" like the ones used by plumbers for spreading solder flux on copper pipe before soldering. I cut the bristles off short, about 1/4". Mix about 1/2 tablespoon of part A & part B and paint the bottom and bottom edge of the plug and insert it into the hole over the screw. Use a counter sink bit to drill the hole for the screw and the plug will fit tight. Let the epoxy cure and then cut the excess off with a sharp chisel or knife and lightly sand. Walla ! ! ! One plugged hole and it will stay for years.
I used water proof wood glue.
West system epoxy 106 and hardener If the plugs are vertical or upside down add 406 microspores to thicken
Outdoor or marine glue
Just a little bit of epoxy around the entire base of the bung. Tap lightly with a small hammer. After epoxy sets, sand any exposed bung .
We epoxy the plugs in and shave and sand bungs flush to surrounding teak deck boards.
Sorry, I don't have a good answer. I tried epoxy, urethane glue, and varnish. I cant say that one works better than the other.
They are tapered to fit snuggly into the hole. Some people use a little glue or something as well, but generally just a good couple of hits with a hammer does the job.
I used waterproof wood glue and tapped them in with a hammer before cutting them off.
what size Bung will fit a countersunk hole for a #12 wood screw? Is it 7/16" Thanks, Chris
depends on what size counter sink you use not the screw head size, 3/8 might work just fine but 7/16 would be ok as well
A #12 wood screw is less than a 1/4", and I don't know of any merchants that sell it. You'd have to make your own. Good luck !!
I have read that the bungs should be : 1. just tapped into the hole, 2. used with a drop of varnish to hold in and be waterproofed and 3. used with epoxy for the same reasons. They are going into teak flooring in a cockpit of an open sailboat. What's best ?Ensign Pulver
We did our cockpit deck in teak, about 12'X 14' in all and used West System epoxy. We used no bungs though. Instead, we fastened each teak strip with 1"X2" pine pieces every 6"-8" or so with No. 8 common screws and used 3/4" washers to temporarily hold down the teak strips until the epoxy cured. After the deck was completed we filled in the 1/8" spaces between the teak strips with black caulking. Final step, sanded flush with 80 Grit sandpaper. That's about 15 years ago and still looks fine. I hope this helps you.Chris
Hi I use water proof glue . Usuallly I put the glue on a small piece cardboard.I just dab the bottom of the bung, then I used a small wood matel to hit it in, I listen for the bung to stop light taps. When I cut the bungs , some use a chisel, put you can chip the bung and be lower than you want to be?I used a Chinese saw very fine and I lay it flat in the deck and cut off the head.Sometimes I reuse the cuts saves money. If you don't want to get saw marks on the teak. I use a small prices of thin flashing I use a hole punch and make a hole in it , then I slip it over the bug and cut the bung. Well hope this helps, signed Maverick.
For a high traffic application like a cockpit, I would recommend coating both the holes and the plugs in epoxy before hammering them in. The varnish method works for bright work applications where they will be recoated frequently, but I wouldn't recommend for a cockpit sole
how thick are the 1/2 inch wide plugs? I need some that are only 1/4 inch thick if I want to avoid removing & resetting all the screws deeper. Thanks...
thanks, Robert. They are close enough that I might try sanding first. Appreciate your response; Springer
after securing plugs, each is adjusted to depth by cutting/shaving with sharp tool or knife
The depth of the bung does not matter. Just add glue, tap into place and let it cure. Then, if accessible, use a fine tooth wood saw and remove any of the bung that may protrude. Lastly, sand any rough edges that remain.
Set with proper glue and align grain. After curing of glue trim to proper height with sharp wood chiselclose to final height and then sand to be flush.
I use the 3/8 bungs, and they are about 1/2 thick, but it doesn't matter how thick they are. After you use a rubber mallet to pound the bung into place, you use a chisel to shave off the remaining bung so it is flush with the deck.
I need 1/2 round by 3/8 deep teak plugs - how do I order?
Call or order on-line item # is BUNG12T
I'm replacing bungs in my deck that have "disappeared" or broken up. Do I need to drill (countersink) a slightly larger hole and thus a slightly larger bung? Or should I just clean up the existing hole?
I have recently performed the same project on my boat. I've found that there was no need to bore larger. Rather, i did find that countersinking a tad deeper allowed a more sound setting especially if the screwheads were originally showing shallow.
I use a Forstner bit of the same size to clean up the hole, apply a little aliphatic wood glue to the bung, and tap it in place. After the glue sets, you can either use a Japanese saw or sand the bung to make it flush. If you have a cored deck and are concerned about water infiltration, you might consider pulling the screws and rebedding them before replacing the bung. Good luck on your project; teak decks are well worth taking good care of.
If the existing holes are tight for the current sized bungs, just replace them with the same size ... maybe use the same size countersink to clean up the hole. If the existing holes are loose, go up one size and cut a new clean hole with the properly sized countersink.
Not necessary to expand hole unless there is damage. Drill out the existing hole to the fastener, vacuum and replace.
Can I use these on my teak swim platform? What glue would you use being the platform spends time in water?
Moisture will cause the bungs to swell in the hole. A light coat of poly varnish should be all you needEnjoy
Use any Wood Glue rated for Wet Applications such as Titebond III or an Epoxy.
I don't see why not - as for the glue, I would use a very small dab of epoxy on the bottom of the plug only. If they spend time in the water, the plugs, as well as the rest of the platform, should swell and hold them in place - the epoxy would really just hold them down in case the swelling started to push them out without any glue at all. Good luck!
Yes you can add those to a swim platform. I would use epoxy. Degrease with acetone or other and then glue shortly after if has evaporated. If the surface of the platform has ruts in it from age it will be hard to keep the epoxy from seaping in to those ruts.
only used above water but do not see why could not use in water. for my application, no glue was required since fit was very tight.
Yes I did, I used a waterproof resin glue. Worked out good, but I am in fresh water.
GAMPER LINGE JR.
How deep are these plugs?
The plugs I bought are 1/2" in diameter, and 1/2" deep.
Marta,They are generally 1/2 - 3/4 inch in length, depending on the plug diameter. If you want a perfect match with the wood you are using an option would be to buy a plug cutter and cut your own plugs from scraps of the wood you used for the project.
What is the thickness of these bungs?
The 7/16" bungs are 1/2" thick. They are cut across the grain (not end grain like dowels) so you can match the grain of the hole you are plugging.
If you mean length - about 1/2. Or 5/8 inch as I remember
how long are the 3/8 dia plugs ?
I do not know but why worry.If they are too short, then use one plug on top of another and fill up with expoxy.If they are too long, then either use a flexible Japanese saw to cut them down, use a chisel, or sand.They should be longer than the depth of the hole,
The plugs will vary in length. They will generally be no less than 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch in length.I attempt to match the grain and set the plug either by tapping it into place or applying Titebond sparingly, as you might need to remove the plug later, generally by drilling.I cut the plug flush using a 6 1/2 inch pullsaw.Good luckJim
These bungs are good quality and reasonably priced.
Yes and I did.
Replugging a tired deck. While the pugs are not uniform in height they are of good quality and uniformally round.
Using these (1/2" size) to reset a couple hundred screws on a teak boat deck. Had to throw out appx 10-15 % of the plugs in the last package of 100 because they had flat spots up the side and were unusable. Other issue is a number of them were on the short side. No real taper or chambered edge to the plugs either...Think I'll find a new source as these are just being bought and resold by JD, it's not like they are manufacturing the product in their facility.
Ordered and delivered on time.
Good quality bungs
Very good product
I am actually giving it 4 1/2 stars. It lost a half star for about 1/4 of them being slightly to short. For the price that's a lot that I couldn't use. Other than that, very good product.
perfect fit !
consistent diameter and depth . thank you !
S/V Miss Victoria
used on a floor project found plugs to be useable but inconsistent in shapes some had flat edges most had no taper I could use for my application but some what dissapointed
Poor quality control
Sometimes I order these bungs, and the taper end is good. Last time I ordered 1/2" bungs, they measured in at 15/32" on the smaller (tapered) end, and 17/32" on the larger end. Great. Other times, its 1/2" on the smaller tapered end, and 9/16" on the larger end. I split some expensive teak deck planks before I realized what was going on. How about some quality control?
Frustrated deck rebuilder
I would shop with Jamestown again.
I looked all over and the only supplier that carried 7/16" teak plugs was Jamestown. They worked well, were priced right, and delivered quickly. What more could you ask?
I would do business with Jamestown again.
I built a new teak swim platform for my trawler. It was constructed with 7/8" wide teak strips that are glued and screwed together. I used the 7/16" plugs to fill the visible screw holes. That was about 50 holes. Jamestown was the only source I could find for 7/16" teak plugs.