Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.
Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications. Titebond III is the most advanced wood glue available today.
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Features and Benefits:
Waterproof - Passes ANSI/HPVA Type I Specification
Longer open time
Lower application temperature
Resists solvents, heat and mildew
Unaffected by finishes
Water cleanup & Non-toxic
FDA approved for indirect food contact
Sands easily without softening
Safer than traditional waterproof glues
Number Of Parts:
can this glue be used below the waterline?
steve Last Name
I have not used it below waterline.
I have seen bungs below the waterline (painted of course) which were fine after several seasons. Not sure wheter it would hold if exposed directly to water.
Yes but I wound not unless it's a temporary situation. Use a product like G-Flex by west systems.
I wouldn't even try to use it below the waterline. It is not worth the risk. Spend the money on epoxy
is quart the smallest size? I only need a small amt.
I ordered this item, but it was not available. Try Sticky Jack Glue.
is this glue suitable for fabricating wooden oars?
I think the "TitebondIII" would be poor choice for oars, although, it is my choice when it comes to a glue. My ONLY choice for making oars would be "G-felx" by West Systems.
Should I use this to bond the keel and centerboard shaft of my wooden sailboat? If so, on bare wood, or paint it first?Carl W.
I ordered this product last month, but it was not available and was deleted from my order. Sorry I can't offer an opinion.
I'm building a center board from oak planks glued together. Will this bond hold while submerged for extended periods of time?
I can't speak from direct experience with this type of application but It seems to me that the most important product will be your exterior finish. This is a great glue for boats but you still have to have a real good finish to protect it. That being said, it should be up for the job.
Titebond III is classed as a waterproof adhesive and approved by the FDA for indirect contact with food. (can be used to glue up cutting boards). the standards for "waterproof adhesive" include maintaining bond strength in boiling water for more than 24 hours, and indefinitely under normal conditions. So the adhesive itself will not degrade due to anything you're going to do with a boat. The wood will rot off the glue before the glue lets go. Titebond II, while only "water resistant" is usually more than adequate for most boat-building. and easier to clean up. (although I'd recommend titebond III for a centerboard.)Whether the mechanical properties of the bond will meet your needs is another question.
I do like titebond III I would the much more comfortable using an epoxy for an underwater application like a center board trunk. in the 50 years we've owned our wooden schooner we have replaced many planks below the waterline. In recent years we've switched from traditional but block joints to long overlapping epoxy joints. I have used West epoxy for years and I'm very accustomed to how it performs.
Can I usr Titebond III Ultimate Glue wood to make laminated wood frames , water may be in the bilge at times, but I plan to seal and paint the frames also.?
I recommend using "WEST SYSTEM" epoxy in conjunction with "WSY-404" which has the highest rating for laminating instead, this will ensure maximum strength and waterproofing, afterwards a simple sand and clean and it's ready for paint, thank you.
how long do I have to work the parts together before the glue skins over ?
Open time on III is advertised as 15 minutes, I have found that I want my joint together in 5 and clamped in 10. Pre-glue test fits are the key.III IS the best there is by the way. FPL III
F.P. LYNAH III
when I am strip planking it often takes 5-10 minutes to get the strip in place and clamped. Longer than 10 minutes would definitely cause skin over problems. JT
At least a few minutes, but passes fast if you are working.I have used it to glue 1 1/2" X 9 foot slates in a curved form together and it gave me enough time to apply glue and clamp it in place.
The size of your glue surface ( the time it takes to cover the glue area(s) the air and material temp all need to be considered when gluing up.Open glued faces remain usable for perhaps 5-7 minutes ? I've worked multi layer laminations for as much as 15 -20 minutes by gluing the laminates and placing them together keeping the air off the surfaces then bringing them to the mold ,clamping to the desired shape. Practice on less complicated glue ups will provide the experience to confidently engage in bigger laminations/Scott B
SCOTT J BELL
Can Titebond III be used for below waterline boat building or not? I see conflicting reports.
I use tightbond 3 in my strip built boats to glue strips to each other, but that glue is then encapsulated in epoxy and fiberglass. I find that if I stick a glue brush in warm water after using it I can easily clean the glue out of the brush the next day. This makes me reluctant to use it under the water line or any place structural unless it is encapsulated in epoxy and glass.
LYLE E. CARLON
I can just say what they advertise. It is waterproof once dry. I used it to glue two pieces of plywood together to restore my transom.
While Titebond III is theoretically waterproof, I would not use it below the waterline. I would suggest 5200 or similar product.
I'm far from the ocean out here in New Mexico, but I have cold-molded a 10'- dinghy, and done other marine woodwork, often out in the field. I would only trust a good 2-part epoxy formulated for submerged hulls - like the West System resins. The Titebond III is a fantastic glue, good outdoors in our climate with abrupt extreme weather changes. When the joining surfaces are well-mated, and there is enough glue, and there is good saturation into the dry wood, then everything is all right. But failures do occur when the gluing workmanship is of a poor quality. Epoxy resins are more difficult to use, but more forgiving of hasty joinery, and you can add fillers (after you've saturated the mating surfaces first, for a few minutes, or until the wood has stopped absorbing the resin and remains wetted), which allow for a sloppy fit to hold well. If you want to experiment, glue up a decent sized test joint or laminate two strips together, submerge the piece in a bucket of water for a week, and then try to destroy the joint. The wood should fail first.
Jim,Personal opinion here, but I would use either an epoxy based adhesive or something like 3-M 5200 on below waterline applications. I do think highly of Titebond III and have used it successfully on above waterline applications that were occasionally exposed to moisture but were sealed with a paint or varnish. I hope this helped.Ray
I have never used it for under water like on a boat, but getting rained on does not seem to hurt it at all; but here is a forum post about from a wood working magazine: Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:20 am Post subject: Titebond III Does not Perform -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wood Magazine this month has a great article comparing the major brand glues. The 6 page article tests for strength and water resistance. In a water resistant test, glued joints were submerged in water for 24 hours. Surprisingly Titebond III scored worse than Titebond II. The TB II joint held up to about 300 PSI. TB III failed at about 200 PSI. So I guess you should save your money. TBIII is typically 60% more expensive than TB II. There was a discussion a few weeks ago about the TB III compared to Polyurethanes for water resistance. Polyurethanes win. In the same test as mentioned above, the Elmer's ProBond and Gorilla Glue Polyurethane joint held up to almost 1000 PSI. TB III held up to 200 PSI.
Does this product make any claims of UV resistance? I am considering it for the glue uuup of a mast and will be using Watco Danish oil as a finish, ( not traditional I know but I have had very good luck with Watco applicaation ease, mauintainence, and durability, plus I don't plan on submerging my mast.
I have sucsessfully used TiteBond III to glue Mahogany to Mahogany and Mahogany to Marine Plywood. The assemblies were finished with water based stain and then received 6 coats of marine varnish. I have seen so signs of seperation or failure at the joints. Realistically, the glue joint will not be exposed directly to sunlight so I'm not sure UV resistance would be an issue. (as long as the wood is sealed) I would focus the question more on what kind of wood are you glueing together ( is this glue the best choice for that wood?) and what kind of shear loads will the glue joint be put under. A mast can be placed under considerable load so I recommend some careful research prior to laying it up.Good Luck- Ray Hy
The glue joint really shouldn't be much of a problem as far as UV exposure goes, if you use the glue as a glaze than maybe, but just as a glue up I've never heard of problems stemming from that issue. This product is definitely your best bet for your application though. (although if you're not submerging your mast or using it as a cutting board, then you might have just as good luck with Titebond II, and save yourself a few pennies) -All the Best
TB III looses strength in service with heat. 180 degrees F will cause it to lose 70% of its strength. Any dark finish in the sun will get over 180 degrees. We had panels open up on jointlines made with TBIII and asked Titebond tech what was up. He explained the heat characteristic, saying he would never use it for anything that could get hot.
TITEBOND is the best glue
I use it for all my woodworking projects, I hate nails , and titebond 3 sets quickly , and you don't need much
An excellent glue
This has become one of my primary glues during a boat renovation project. I also use it for cutting boards and projects that do not even need a waterproof glue. It's a little thinner than typical wood glues so it tends to run on vertical surfaces. To minimize the problem I make sure I spread a thin coat on the surface using a plastic applicator; it seems to do the trick.
Longer open time
The extended open time, incredible holding strength, and simple water clean-up makes this glue an easy choice over epoxy.
This stuff is strong!
Titebond III is an excellent general purpose wood glue. I find it to be as strong as epoxy- without the hassle. Cleans up with water. Makes a strong joint.