West System 206 Slow Hardener is a low-viscosity epoxy curing agent for use when extended working and cure time is needed or to provide adequate working time at higher temperatures.
At 72-degrees, 206 Slow Hardener will have a 20-25 minute pot life. When combined with 105 Resin in a five-part resin to one-part hardener ratio, the cured resin/hardener mixture yields a rigid, high-strength, moisture-resistant solid with excellent bonding and coating properties.
Not intended for clear coating applications.
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Mix Ratio, Resin:Hardener
5:1 by weight or volume
Pot life at 72 F (22 C)
20 to 25 minutes
Cure to a solid state
9 to 12 hours
Cure to maximum strength
1 to 4 days
Minimum recommended temperature
60 F (16 C)
300, 306-25 or 309
Rate Of Cure:
is the bond similar to 207?
Exactly the same.
do you need to mix this with 205 hardener also or does it work alone with epoxy?
You use it by itself, no mixing with 205.
You don't mix 205 hardener with 206 hardener. If you want the epoxy to set up fast use 205 if you need more open time use 206. Also I have found that if it is really hot out the 205 will start to set up even faster so beware.
You only mix the 206 hardener with the resin. The 206 hardener just gives you a longer work time than the 205 hardener does.
can this be used in thick applications like filling a gap that may be an inch deep?
Yes. Mix it with sillica to thicken it.Mix a small batch first to coat that hole, let the thin coat settle for about 10 minutes. Then follow up with a thickened batch ( ketchup thick ) .
Yes, you could, be aware that a large thick area of epoxy will generate heat as it cures and get very hot. You also could mix in a thickener like silica but it will be opaque white when it cures.
If it's wood, yes (clear dirt and rot away). After coating the area with clear mixture, I'd add wood flour to the remaining clear mixture for a stronger bond.
I don't see why not if the fluid can be contained. I used it to stop the delamination of my fiberglass deck, by injecting it under the deck. Fluid enough to flow easily and work, but acted like glue and filled any gaps.
what is the longest pot life hardener with 105?
Put mixed epoxy in a large wide container.....don't concentrate the volume and it won't heat up quite so rapidly.
The longest is the 209. I have yet to use it. We stay with the 206 and mix as we move along. Primarily for bottom laminates and fiberglass work. Cure time is a concern for moving along.
Your ambient temperature is a critical factor in your working time. Cold- slow and hot- fast. We usually use 206.
I think about 1/4 - 1/2 hour before it gelled, but I had a fairly large amount and it spontaneously heated up by itself due to the heat generated from the "epoxy" reaction. Keep it cool for a longer pot life.
I want to surface and paint an older fiberglass boat's interior. The surface is painted rough chopped mat. How do I prep; is epoxy preferable?
I am not an expert but I would epoxy the surface first to give the paint a good base to adhere to.
We used the epoxy with slow hardener to coat/protect new wood on paddle wheels we built. Mixed in small batches to give us more working time. I got good advice from the Jamestown folks. Expect they have expertise on Fiberglas coating too.
Does it include hardner?
like Jerry said unless it is a "kit" most West System products are sold separately
yes, 206 slow hardener includes hardener. It is the hardener for 205 epoxy resin.
The resin, hardener, and pumps are sold separately.
wset slow hardener says 20-30 mins pot time. fibreglast slo hard is 120 mins pot life. why difference?
Why the difference? Assembly time and assembly temperature. Epoxy cures faster when the temperature is warmer.
Not sure if I understand your question, particularly what fiberglass slow hardener you are comparing the West to. Pot life depends on a number of variables. Fast hardeners react chemically with the resin faster than slow hardeners. If I remember correctly, West sells a hardener even slower than the "Slow" hardener - may have the word "tropical" in the name.Temperature of the material in the pot is very important. Warmer has shorter pot life. (Chemical reaction rate generally varies exponentially with temperature!) I say "in the pot" because the reaction gives off heat, so the pot warms above ambient temperature. Large quantities and deep pots don't dissipate this heat as well as smaller quantities in shallow pots, so pot life is less. In short, to maximize pot life - use slow hardeners, work when it is cooler, and mix multiple smaller batches in shallow pots rather than a single large batch in a deep pot.BTW - if by fiberglass hardener, you mean polyester resin and catalyst - this is a completely different chemistry than the epoxy chemistry used by West and others.
Sorry but that doesn't explain why west sys slow epox has pot life of 30 min and fibreglast slo has 2 hours. I understand that temp affects pot time, but 4 time the rated pot life?
The product description for 206 hardner says ,not intended for clear applications . i want to use it with 4 inch tape to seal seams on a flat bottom canoe. Can I varnish over it and get a nice clear finish or will I have to use a color finish?
Never used this with tape but in thin layers it turns a light amber. If you need water clear then probably won't work but if your varnish gives an amber cast anyway then it may be OK.
Here're some general answers on epoxy use in boatbuilding1. If West says the 206 is not intended for clear coat applications then why use it? You will probably see a darker band where the 4" tape is which could be objectionable.2. Why use a slow hardener anyway? West probably has a medium hardener that they say is appropriate for your application. Working time is a function of the temperature in your shop, temperature of the resin and hardner, the mass of resin/hardener and the thermal conductivity of the surface you're working on. If you mix in small batches--for example, less than a total of 150 grams or 5 oz or so, mix thoroughly and then dump the mixed resin onto the tape and spread it out so there's no big mass of it in any one place (like the mixing cup) then it won't exotherm or "run away" with self heating and you can use a "normal" hardener. I use the West 8oz plastic mixing/measuring cups, stir for 30 seconds or so and get the stuff onto the work and spread out quickly and have no problems. My shop area tends to be cool--low 50's in the winter and maybe 70ish in the summer. 3. A much bigger worry than change in colour is "blushing." Blushing in epoxy coatings is not the same as blushing in paints or varnishes--it's much worse. Some "how-to" epoxy books tell you that you must wash cured epoxy with warm soapy water to remove "blush" before you can proceed with a varnish overcoat or another layer of epoxy. If you have blush and don't remove it the next coating may fail to cure or harden properly and adhesion may be poor. Blushing is caused by inadequate quality control in the hardener manufacture and is aggravated by high humidity so be careful to avoid wet days. And use a system which sells a "No Blush" hardener. I use MAS and their "No Blush" normal hardener and do not bother with a soapy water wash-down. Who wants to get their partially finished boat wet??
Slow hardener takes on a reddish tint when exposed to moisture prior to mixing (this is only a problem with that leftover can from last year) - also, over time it will become hazy/opaque and degrade when exposed to UV, even under good varnish. I would pick a UV stable brand.
I have used the Slow hardener for clear applications many times. It is more clear than many amber-colored marine varnished. The "newer" hardener for clear applications used different pumps (3 to 1, rather than the 5 to 1 pumps of the Fast and Slow) and ends up being more expensive. The clear coating hardener is a little more user-friendly and, here's the important thing, it has more UV protection.For your use and most normal uses, the 205 and 206 will work very well if you use something like Epifanes varnish or a solid-color paint.In my experience, which goes back to the early 1980s, I always use the Slow, mainly because I like a long pot life and I'm never in that much of a hurry to have the glue kick off.You don't mention what the canoe is made of. It could be wood, canvas over wood, plastic, aluminum. West will stick to most anything except vapor barrier poly plastic and similar plastics. Do a test!! Give it 24 hours, then stress to the breaking point, if you can make a sample.As always, abrasion with sandpaper will afford a good mechanical grip. Clean with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner before gluing.In choosing your clear finish, try to find one that is intended for below waterline use.Wood strip canoes are typically built with West and Dynel cloth with 3 or 4 coats of Slow over the cloth, followed by several coats of something like Epifanes over that. If the canoe will be in the water all of the time, a bottom paint would be a good idea.Gary Stevens
This hardener does have a slight amber hue to it , and if you have it sitting around for long lengths oif time (many months) , this hue darkens even more. But if your using this over 4 inch tape, (I'm assuming this is a wooden canoe), well saturated tape will result in seeing through the tape to the underlying structure with a "wet" look until you sand it. After sanding and some spot touch up to missed spots, this will take on the look of any good solvent based varnish. So I wouldn't hesitate in applying a varnish to the taped seems and the rest of the surface to achieve a nice amber hue look, but I wouldn't call it clear.
Hi Herbert, the 206 will dry with a cloudy appearence to the resin. This will help to disguise the fiberglass tape. The finish you decide to use will either enhance (let you see) or cover the repair. It's your choice.
Great Service, even for small orders!
West System is great
I have been using West epoxy for decades. I have used it for sailboat maintenance, radio antennas, car bodywork, building repairs, toys to timbers. Anything that needs to be filled and faired. The ability to select a hardener for speedy hardening or extended working time is a great advantage.I have used soft filler to repair wooden items like the rotted frames of very large windows that I got free to install in the barn workshop. Once filled they are stronger than wood and impervious to weather for a long time. I have pumps that I occasionally use if I want perfect proportions. But I usually just slop some resin and hardener in approximate proportions into a mixing tray, and for mot purposes it works very nicely. The measurements would probably be more economical and perhaps produce a better finished product but for most jobs I don't bother. The pumps leak as temperature changes expand the pressure in the cans. A sturdy end cap on the pumps would help. I've tried electrical wire-nuts and they are marginally effective. The pumps are messy, and usually spend their time on essentially empty cans.
Normally I prefer only Fast hardener, however, I had a rather large area of mat to wet out and anticipated warm weather ahead; so I purchased the Slow hardener. I did not realize the job would require so much resin and used up all the West System Resin that I had. My preference was to purchase Total Boat Resin because I've grown to like that product more than West; not to mention the money savings with free shipping for Total Boat. Instructions indicated I could use the two name brands together so I purchased Total Boat Resin and the West System slow hardener worked fine with the Total Boat Resin.
Product good have used for a long time
We make walking sticks with brass tips and caps product works well, this order had shipping problems order on 11-10 got the product on 12-1
Bad picture on website
the website shows the Qt. can so I ordered it..when it came it was a cup. The picture should charge with the product.
Far hills, NJ
206 slow hardener
The slow hardener provides plenty of working time in the 90 degree and 80% humidity environment I am currently working in. I always time my mixing to ensure thorough mix with resin. I am using straight mix for fiberglass layup using directions that are available from West Systems. I had colloidal filler for some smoothing fills. My choice of filler depends on strength vs ease of sanding. Mostly go with strength. With the slow hardener it gives me more working time so very little sanding is typically required. If I do miss a spot I use a grinder.
Best two part adhesive
Be sure to use the metering pumps available for this and the resin.
Santa Rosa, CA
Most versatile of hardeners.
West System is safest, most versatile product of its field.
This was my first time every using an epoxy and I was a bit concerned about my lack of experience. I got the pumps (I highly recommend them for proper measurements), read the directions on the epoxy, hardener and pumps and it was easy breezy. Great results!
West System 206
I'm now using this product with West 205 resin on a new multi-layer bottom for an antique Chris Craft. It allows plenty of time for clamping and fastening and completely cures in a couple of days resulting in a bottom much more solid and leak resistant than the original construction.