West System 410 Microlight is the ideal low-density filler for creating a light easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing large areas. Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or microballoons and is approximately 30% easier to sand.
410 feathers to a fine edge and is also more economical for large fairing jobs. Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high temperatures. Cures to a tan color.
$17.14
$34.10
$301.10
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
BRAND:
WEST System
Type:
Fillers
Will this filler accept stain?
Homey
It is more about whether the resin system of your choice will accept a tint as opposed to the filler. Generally, you need to use a tint that is compatible with the resin system that you are using. Household stains are not compatible with polyester, vinyl ester or epoxies.
JD Tech Associate
would happen if the putty west system 410 applies under a black paint?
edgardo martinez
I don't think it matters. After all, fiberglass is basically white; all resins I know of ( if you don't tint them with something) are clear, if a bit amber. Just apply sufficient coats of paint to cover. As hot as it gets here, BTW, I would NEVER paint anything black.
DickfromBR DickfromBR
do you have clear ?
james broyhill
the microfiber turns the epoxy opaque
GARY SILBERQUIT
We don't know if they have clear however the 410 Microlight Filler is a light tan.
MARCY CELLA
Hearing problem. Interested in consistency of "peanut butter" for fairing? Can't hear all that is said.Thanks,J
Undisclosed
Mix so it spreads nicely without skipping. Also thick enough so it does not sag. Mix is not critical to finished product. Consistancy can be from "mayonaise" to "peanut butter" thickness. Product is very easily sanded. Should be able to sand by hand with fairing block and make "auto body smooth". It will shrink a bit so multiple coats may be necessary. Coat then sand then coat then sand. This is a very good product!!!
ROBERT VINSON
Correction to my response yesterday: the Extra Slow Hardener is WEST System 409, not 407 ... for those large fairing jobs.
John Duncan
I used "peanut butter" Microlight to fair the outside of my hull (topside) as well as the inside of my cabin walls, engine compartment, lockers. Trowel on, sands and shapes very easily, although for any high impact areas (chain lockers etc.) you'll want to overcoat (roll/brush) 1-2 layers of unthickened WEST System for ding resistance before painting. To the top layer(s) in wet (external/bilge) areas consider adding 422 Barrier Coat Additive, which at 10-20% by weight doesn't have much thickening effect. Also, if you're surfacing a whole compartment, consider not painting at all and instead use WEST System white or gray dye -- this is what I do in chain lockers and bilges, because painting those areas is just silly and high maintenance. To give you some idea of proportions, I find that 10 pumps each of 105/207 takes about a third of a large (20 oz?) can of Microlight to get to "peanut butter." I use "large" tupperware bins from the supermarket (basically cheap-o disposable salad bowls) and have a solid stick ready for stirring -- no flimsy little pine or plastic. Finally, note that I said 207 (hardener), not 205 or 206. If you're mixing large batches (like for fairing), you'll need the Extra Slow working time so it doesn't kick in the pot. Good luck!
John Duncan
We did not use it for fairing but we used it in the seams.We used it many years ago and this product held up. M
MARCY CELLA
Keep adding filler until the mix is the same consistency as if you were stirring peanut butter.
GORDON FRISBEY
I used this stuff for filling in nail heads and dings in the planking of a wood and canvas canoe before canvassing. It is light, easy to apply, and sanded off about the same as the cherry planks. didn't seem to shrink as it cured. I'd say it was a great product.Jackie
JACKIE PEPPE
I have not used "peanut butter thickness" as I have only used it to thicken for void filling when scarfing planks, mostly 1/2' X 6". I have been using West with no filling to prime and soak in to the wood ( this helps bonding) and then thicken for the final fit to that of thick molasses.
WILLIAM MATTHEWS
"peanut butter" simply means the viscosity of the mix. Mostly used on vertical surfaces so that it will stay put and not sag. If you mix to this consistenty make sure you mix the epoxy first then add the 410 incrementaly to desired consistency. Make sure the 410 is mixed carefully with no dry pockets.Good Luck
RICAHRD VAN VORIS
I am thinking of using this to fill a ding in the side of a wooden hull (above waterline). Do I need to remove all paint in the damaged area or can I get away with a rough sanding before applying?
Undisclosed
Sure, you can just sand the paint but then the filler will then only stick as well as your paint. But if your paint is in good condition then your approach will work ok. I do love this filler. if you mix it thick enough tofill a big hole ( even as big as a half olive) then it will cure pretty soft. this is great for fairing a hull that is made of softwood because the wood and filler will sand at the same rate. if your hull is made of hardwood then i would recomend adding in a heavier filler. I actually use a litlle coloidal silica for this even though that's not a stated use for this product but i love how it affects the workability of the filler mix. remember to wear a dust mask with all these additives since they are very hard on your lungs. good luck, Troy
TROY NICOLINI
You must remove all paint, oil, grease and make sure you have a low moister content. If you don’¢??t the fix will not be permanent. You want the West System to adhere to the wood hull and not left over paint that may flake off. If you have clean, bare, dry wood the fix with West System will be forever, do good prep work and it will pay off in the long run. Let the resin soak into the wood fibers.
JOE FRANETIC
In a perfect world, probably remove the paint, but, if the ding is small and you want to get on with your life......Give it a try. Rough sand 80 grit. Clean, clean, clean, and go for it.
WILLIAM CZAJKA
I never used it on wood but fiberglass I would definitely clean the area down to base. I use this product in a slurry that's about the consistency of peanut butter. Hope this helps.
DONALD RIGGS
Epoxy should always be applied directly to the substrate. The adhesion properties of epoxy is 3000psi regular marine paint maybe 30-50psi. If the repair is larger than a silver dollar I would use the 406 to build up then the 410 to fair out.
JOHN C GUILLOT III
remove all paint in damaged area to repair the hull or just rough up the paint to repair the finish.
MIKE KABLER
I'd remove most of the paint in the damaged area. Not saying it won't work if you don't, but for the best chance of good adhesion, just remove it.
DAVID SKRIDULIS
Sure, you can just sand the paint but then the filler will then only stick as well as your paint. But if your paint is in good condition then your approach will work ok. I do love this filler. if you mix it thick enough tofill a big hole ( even as big as a half olive) then it will cure pretty soft. this is great for fairing a hull that is made of softwood because the wood and filler will sand at the same rate. if your hull is made of hardwood then i would recomend adding in a heavier filler. I actually use a litlle coloidal silica for this even though that's not a stated use for this product but i love how it affects the workability of the filler mix. remember to wear a dust mask with all these additives since they are very hard on your lungs. good luck, Troy
TROY NICOLINI
An 80-grit sanding is fine, and you don't have to be too fussy about getting all the old paint off--although if it's just a ding, it shouldn't be much more work to take it down to the wood. Sanding that stuff is no fun, better to use a cabinet scraper to shape it when it dries.
TIM SMITH
i have construsted my boat from scratch.. I have stripped planked my hull with 1.25 inch cedar strips..the hull area is approx.. 300 square feet..I plan to purchase the largest container of 410 micro light filler to fair the hull ..is that enough... there are no big dips in the hull however the space between the strips need to be filled.. is that enough???thanks
Peter Paradis
That should be enough. It goes a long ways.Steve Ladd
STEPHEN LADD
The low density (easily sandable) filler is a good product for your application. I completed the hull of a Jerricho Bay Lobster skiff which was stripped with 1/2" x 1" cedar strips and had some gaps on the tight turn areas of the hull and used 410 with good results.Enjoy the build,Don
DONALD HAGENOW
4.79
410 filler
5
I replenished my supply and I use this often...great for my needs
John
Massachusetts
This Stuff is Awesome
5
The Filler Additive is so great for making silky smooth fillets or fairing. Its easily sanded and can create a fine feather edge. I use a little bit in all my fillet mixtures to create a super working product. A must have additive.
PAC4SEAS
Maryland
Fairing Filler
5
I mix this 50-50 % Colloidal-Microlight by volume. I use a rounded table spoon of each with a two squirts of resin and two squirts of hardener. A two pot mixing process works best for me.My typical batch is three rounded tablespoons of each filler mixed in a large plastic bowl. Use a flat bottomed stir stick to break clumps. Wear a VOC or at least a dust mask.I then mix six squirts of resin and six squirts of hardener for three minutes of stirring. I prefer WEST SYSTEM 206 for its lower viscosity, but use whichever suits your air temperature. If in doubt, go with a slower hardener. Keep your batches small and work a wet edge as you would when varnishing to avoid thermal runaway. More than 1/2 inch thickness is not advised in one coating. If you need to do so, say by 20% more thickness, move up to a slower hardener.Use a chip brush trimmed by 1/2 inch to coat the work surface with neat epoxy. This will creates better bond and avoids a resin starved joint.Pour a thin stream of the neat epoxy into the powders and move the stream as you pour. Pour all but about 1/4 of the neat epoxy and begin stirring the powder mixture. It will be a resin starved mix, which will help break any clumps of filler along the side of the mixing cup that you missed previously. Add the rest of the epoxy and keep stirring. Do not be surprised if you need more filler. Add cautiously and break any remaining lumps.Apply to the project with a plastic squeegee for flat surfaces, or a round plastic jar that meets your needs. If applying to grained wood, I apply across the grain to fill the grain as you would in a base coat of varnish. Apply a bit more than you need and sand it off when cured.This stuff sands easily by hand or orbital sander when completely cured. Clogged sandpaper may be a sign of incomplete cure.I tried heaping instead of rounded tablespoons of fillers and found that it's a lot easier to add fillers than mix another small batch or epoxy while your original batch begins to cure in the mixing pot.Have fun with this stuff and go build something. -b
BRUCEK
FRANKLIN, LA
Not that Great
2
In building my 19-foot skiff, I have used a handful of different fairing compounds, and I really didn't think much of this one. The problems with it are that even after it cures it is still kind of soft. I faired a whole 4 foot by 2 foot section of my boat, and didn't trust this stuff, so I sanding it all the way back off. I have found other fiaring compounds that mix much smoother, spread on easier, and cure much more soundly.
NewRiver
Sneads Ferry, NC
410 Microlight
5
very forgiving. sands easily
Joker757
West Palm Beach, FL
Microlight 410 has multiple uses
5
I have been using 410 microlight for many years mostly in my hobby work of restoring old canoes and small boats. I have found many additional uses in my workshop such as filling voids in wood working projects and in general household repairs such as filling woodpecker holes on my barn siding. West System support information is great and easy to understand.
Jim
Bethlehem, Ct.
Excellent Filler
5
I used Microlight filler to thicken epoxy for repairing window frames, replacing rotted wood with structurally solid epoxy.After thickening epoxy to peanut butter consistency with 410 Microlight, I applied it with knives used with gypsum wallboard tape joint compound. By working on one surface at a time, then allowing it to set, I could re-create 90-degree convex corners (fillets) with perfect surfaces, easy to sand and then ready to paint. It sands easily, even by hand.For this purpose, I found 410 Microlight more appropriate than the No. 406 Colloidal Silica fairing filler, because it was easier to mix, easier to sand, and produced better surfaces. If I were repairing a large overhead gap, I would fill most of it with 406 Colloidal Silica, then create the surfaces or any part requiring sanding with 410 Microlight.I also filled gaps in stucco walls with 410 Microlight, then covered the surface with a stucco patching product. Because it is so easy to shape and to sand, the Microlight seems ideal for filling small gaps, and creating smooth surfaces, for any application that involves repairing voids of relatively small size, and for creating a surface for larger defects that are more appropriately filled with another material such as the 406 Colloidal Silica.Incidentally, I painted all the remaining surfaces of my window frames - those with south-facing exposures (and not rotted and thus not needing replacement) - with non-thickened epoxy so they would not be later found to have rotted in the Phoenix sun.
George
Phoenix, AZ
410 Filler
5
I use this product to obtain the right consistency for inlays into turned wood objects. It does the job well resulting in as product of varying consistencies as needed. It works very well.
I don't have a nickname. Why required?
Sherman, CT
Perfect
5
While I have only used the West Systems epoxy and accesories, and cannot compare it to others, it really does work well and it is easy to use. The microlight fairing filler mixes well, applies reasonably easy (even in hard to reach areas), and sands smooth with low effort.
Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
Checkout: 
Item(s) in your cart:
The item was added to your wishlist.
