TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin is used as a first coat for base coat applications. Without wax, this resin remains tacky to hold fiberglass fabric in place on vertical surfaces. Needs no sanding between coats. Laminating resin is excellent for saturating fiberglass fabrics. MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) catalyst included.
Available in Quart and Gallon Kits.
Each Kit includes: 1 Qt. size plastic mixing pot, 1 10" wooden stir stick, 1 pr. of large latex gloves, and 2 plastic pipettes for transferring the MEKP catalyst.
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Note: The Polyester Laminating Resin you receive will be either blue or pink in color, depending on the time of year your order is placed. Blue (winter formula) contains more promoter to help it set up more quickly in cooler temperatures; blue will still work in warmer temperatures, but will set up quickly. Pink is the summer formula, intended for use in warmer temperatures.
Number Of Parts:
Using the Kevlar Twill Weave cloth; how much resin is needed to cover 20 sq ft ?
You will need about 2 quarts for 20 sq ft.
JD Tech Team
What is the shelf life on this once it's opened? Does it start to deteriorate fairly rapidly once you open the resin?
Shelf life is about 6 months once opened.
Can I use polyester resin on a strip canoe I am building?
The short answer is yes, the resin by itself has NO strength. You need to use matt or cloth to gain the strength you require. 1 oz matte will disappear when you wet it.
I used polyester w.o wax for the first 3 coats and then switched to epoxy for the hardness. Came out great and the epoxy saves the sand and gravel from scraping the bottom.
I wouldn't use polyester resin on it. I would use epoxy.
Polyester resin would be used with fiberglass mat or fiberglass cloth. If you're looking for adhesion or sealing for wood, you probably want epoxy.
If you're planning on using the resin along with fiberglass I don't know of any reason why you couldn't. You can probably get away with layer of glass. Plan on using the resin with wax. If you're planning on using the resin (without glass) for waterproofing then I would use a penetrating epoxy resin.
All I want to do is put a layer of FB over the new plywood boat floor before laying carpet. The area I need to cover is approx 6' by 12', discounting the engine space (it's an inboard) and the ski storage space. How much surface area will a gallon cover?
Oops, that should be FG (fiberglass), not FB. Doh!
I am using this product to replace the stringers in a 22' Center console. I plan on recoating the bilge area of the boat with resin when filleting, then painting the bilge with bilge paint. I am not looking for a superior finish just a durable easy to maintain surface. Can I save time and work by skipping the sanding step or is sanding required before painting over this resin? Same question for this product with wax.
If you finish with laminating resin you will not have to sand before painting. If you add wax to the laminating resin it becomes finishing resin and you will definitely have to sand before painting.
I would definitely recommend sanding if you want the painted surface to last and be durable. The paint will chip off easily if you don't sand the surface, you might try and etching chemical but I have no experience with it.
I had slight imperfections using a roller nothing I would worry too much about it in my bilge
Ive been making male plugs from plaster, finishing them with high build primers such as krylon covermax and rustoleum ultercover. I polish them and cover with mold release -honey wax and pd ultra. Then I make a female mold casting the plug with fiberglass and polyester resin. The problem is that the polyester resin seems to melt the primer. After I pop the mold I'm left with a kind of curdled texture on the surface. The question is: What kind of coating should I be using that is not permeable to the polyester resin?
The only coating I know that will work is gel coat; however, a polyester resin primer if you do not need a finish coat. Otherwise, just trial and error until you find something that will work. Any catalzyed finish might work but I expect that the only sure bets are going to be gel coat or a polyester resin finish They are made to work with the dibasic organic acids and polyhyric alcohols in the resins. Good luck.
Thank you Marvin,Isn't a gel coat polyester ?The polyester melts the (sprayed on)primer. I need something between the very smooth and fished primer and the polyester resin. I was trying to avoid trial and error by asking to see if someone knows the solutionGlenn
can't help on this
Yes gel coat is a polyester resin finish type coat. If you need primer you will probably have to use also a polyester such as SLICK SAND which is a spray on catalyzed surfacer primer made for polyester resins. I used this type for surfacing corvette fiberglass bodies before epoxy primer.
is this a water clear resin when dry or does it dry with a tint?
what i have drys almost clear . hope this helps
It drys to a tint, but very light, if it is the same stuff I got before. It had more of a translucent effect as opposed to crystal clear like system 3. I laid over mahogany/marine plywood and the color of the wood looked good. I've bought a number of gallons of this stuff at different times and the color has varied. Hope this helps.Chris
CHRISTOPHER M JOHNSON
I used the resin in my engine bilge area, on my runabout. the resin looks real clear, like water. but the the left over in the cup I had been using dried a little yellow, looks like tree sap...hope that helps.
It has a slight pink tint. If you want clear, epoxy resin is better.
how much wax do you add per ounce of polyester laminating resin to make a finish resin?
I didn't add wax, wanted to do more work.
CHRISTOPHER M JOHNSON
I have a cracked fender The fender and the hood is one piece on my offroad baja bug. on the underside I want to put down fiberglass and resin to repair crack that is about 12 in. and goes to the end of the panel. What is the best product for this thanks?? ED
TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin and TotalBoat Polyester Finishing Resin are both candidates for your repair. The important difference is that the Laminating resin does NOT contain wax and will cure to a 'tacky' surface, ready to have additional layers of cloth and resin added to it.The Finishing resin, on the other hand, DOES contain wax, which causes it to cure to a tack-free, hard surface. This is great if it's your last layer, but also means you have to sand away the surface layer if you want to add more laminations to it. Assuming that you have multiple layers of fiberglass in your repair and you can't put them all on in a single application of resin, your best bet is to get both, using the laminating resin for the base layers and the finishing resin for the very last layer. You could also get just the laminating resin and buy the styrene wax separately, adding it to only your last round of resin.
how does this differ from epoxy resin, and can that be used with fiberglass cloth
What is the open working time?
well it depends how you mix it .i try for 10-15 mins it drys slow .but it is stronger that way . if it get fairley hot it has to much hardner in it .you'll have to play with it to get the right mix .just go by the instructions first time . .hope this helps
Working time varies based on temperature and amount of catalyst added. I found the recommendations on the package to be spot on.
I would buy again
Purchased by the gallon much better price than evercoat.Worked as well.Big advantage in all accessories mixing cup gloves and eye dropper measures for catalyst allowed making small batches of resin
Update on Basic Directions
I wrote a review this AM after doing a ruinous wet layup. I repeated what I had read in the reviews stating what the gradients on the pipette meant. I was wrong as was whomever wrote the other review. I performed an experiment and found that a teaspoon is about 180 drops from the pipette. Thus, I thought the other gentleman must have been using an eye dropper or something with a larger orifice than the provided pipette. The "1" gradient on the pipette is around 40 drops. Do the math - go from there.
Much better than competitor product I purchased locally.
This had excellent flow and mixed well. This was much better than a popular brand I bought at the auto supply store. It can be tricky to measure properly. The first gallon I purchased did not come in a kit, and I ran out of hardener, possibly due to measuring difficulties. The droppers included in the kits made this much simpler and more accurate.
Dan - Pintail 105
I am using this resin to repair fish box lids and it is working as well as could be expected.
The first few gallons I ordered cam in a blue color. The blue batch gelled and cured out in the time specified on the container label. The last few orders I received poly in a pink color. This pink batch took twice the catalyst to get the same gel time. And it took a good 18 hours to cure out. My advice, mix a test batch when you receive a new order of poly. Depending on the age of poly and the batch, it does not always react to the catalyst consistently.
one good one bad
purchased two gallons one was good the other had already partly cured.
FOR A FIRST-TIMER IT MADE MY JOB EASY!
This was my first time fiberglassing. I own a Formula 242LS and have been using the swim platform as the support for a 150 quart live baitwell. Needless to say I would have found the baitwell and swim platform 30' under if I hadn't been proactive!The resin went on like a breeze, hardened like a rock with plenty of time to message and is now bullet proof! I wish I had taken before and after pictures! THERE WON'T BE A NEXT TIME!Note: I can't take ALL the credit! Chet helped me. Actually, he did a lot! BUT, he was 100% satisfied as to the ease of application and final results!Thanks Chet, I owe you dinner!!