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TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin is used as a first coat for base coat applications. Without wax, this resin remains tacky to hold fiberglass fabric in place on vertical surfaces. Needs no sanding between coats. Laminating resin is excellent for saturating fiberglass fabrics. MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) catalyst included.
Available in Quart and Gallon Kits.
Each Kit includes: 1 Qt. size plastic mixing pot, and 1 10" wooden stir stick.
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Note: The Polyester Laminating Resin you receive will be either blue or pink in color, depending on the time of year your order is placed. Blue (winter formula) contains more promoter to help it set up more quickly in cooler temperatures; blue will still work in warmer temperatures, but will set up quickly. Pink is the summer formula, intended for use in warmer temperatures.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including styrene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
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I am using your polyester resin on a CC that I am building. My question is I was thinking about using it to lay carbon fiber on my gauge panel as it appears to be UV stable (Non-Yellowing) and clear. Would this work or am I off base here?
Laminating resin has an amber tint to it. You will get better results if you laminate the carbon fiber with TotalBoat High Performance Epoxy overcoated with TotalBoat Envy 2-part Clear Varnish. Check out this video demonstrating a carbon fiber lamination: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTGMdbejtbMThey used 5:1 epoxy but the 2:1 will give you a clearer finish.
I'm doing the bottom of a 96 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer boat that was on the rocks and the damage is right in the center of the hull under the engines. I have cut out all the damaged areas and feathered them. This is a large area 3-6-12" wide (depending on area) and 3' long. It does have a layer of foam in-between the inner and outer layers of glass.Do you recommend the polyester laminating resin or the epoxy resin for the repairs? and what clothes? Also what epoxy do I use to set and replace the foam that was cut out between the inner and outer glass?Thx Shawn
I would use all epoxy resin like Totalboat 5:1 Epoxy kit for all the repairs. Use multiple layers of 1708 Biaxial cloth.
JD Tech Team
Using the Kevlar Twill Weave cloth; how much resin is needed to cover 20 sq ft ?
You will need about 2 quarts for 20 sq ft.
JD Tech Team
What is the shelf life on this once it's opened? Does it start to deteriorate fairly rapidly once you open the resin?
Shelf life is about 6 months once opened.
Can I use polyester resin on a strip canoe I am building?
Our company makes color dispersions for polyester, epoxy, polyols (urethanes), acrylics, alkyds, etc.so we are familiar with the chemistry. I also build strip boats and have experimented extensively with these different finishes in regard to outdoor durability. That includes the addition of hindered amines (HALS), benzotriazole and benzophenone UV inhibitors.Acrylic is the best polymer for outdoors, Polyester is second, 2 part urethanes 3rd and epoxy doesn't last 2 years in the sun.However, when it comes to physical properties such as impact, tensile and elongation, epoxy is best, then polyester, urethane and acrylic (brittle in coatings and difficult to handle).If you are going over wood wet out the glass with epoxy and apply a better UV stable coating such as polyester or urethane over the epoxy. You can also use an alkyd based or spar varnish with UV absorber, usually benzotriazole such as BASF Tinuvin 329 or 400 @ .5%.Chemists have made huge advances in the last 20-50 years in improving the durability of these coatings. These polymers are compatible so watch for and experiment with blends of epoxy, urethane, polyester & acrylic. Don't discount the water based products either. We have used water based epoxy on concrete floors that is almost as good as the bis-a & amine, and WB acrylics that are lasting on wood outdoors for 5 years.Unfortunately liability in our litigious society keeps many of the technical advances from public consumption. Monomers such as PMMA (acrylic), styrene (in polyester) and isocyanate in urethane are nasty and require special handling. Epoxy is relatively safe although some people do react to the amine catalysts.
If you're planning on using the resin along with fiberglass I don't know of any reason why you couldn't. You can probably get away with layer of glass. Plan on using the resin with wax. If you're planning on using the resin (without glass) for waterproofing then I would use a penetrating epoxy resin.
Polyester resin would be used with fiberglass mat or fiberglass cloth. If you're looking for adhesion or sealing for wood, you probably want epoxy.
I wouldn't use polyester resin on it. I would use epoxy.
I used polyester w.o wax for the first 3 coats and then switched to epoxy for the hardness. Came out great and the epoxy saves the sand and gravel from scraping the bottom.
The short answer is yes, the resin by itself has NO strength. You need to use matt or cloth to gain the strength you require. 1 oz matte will disappear when you wet it.
All I want to do is put a layer of FB over the new plywood boat floor before laying carpet. The area I need to cover is approx 6' by 12', discounting the engine space (it's an inboard) and the ski storage space. How much surface area will a gallon cover?
Oops, that should be FG (fiberglass), not FB. Doh!
I am using this product to replace the stringers in a 22' Center console. I plan on recoating the bilge area of the boat with resin when filleting, then painting the bilge with bilge paint. I am not looking for a superior finish just a durable easy to maintain surface. Can I save time and work by skipping the sanding step or is sanding required before painting over this resin? Same question for this product with wax.
I had slight imperfections using a roller nothing I would worry too much about it in my bilge
I would definitely recommend sanding if you want the painted surface to last and be durable. The paint will chip off easily if you don't sand the surface, you might try and etching chemical but I have no experience with it.
If you finish with laminating resin you will not have to sand before painting. If you add wax to the laminating resin it becomes finishing resin and you will definitely have to sand before painting.
Ive been making male plugs from plaster, finishing them with high build primers such as krylon covermax and rustoleum ultercover. I polish them and cover with mold release -honey wax and pd ultra. Then I make a female mold casting the plug with fiberglass and polyester resin. The problem is that the polyester resin seems to melt the primer. After I pop the mold I'm left with a kind of curdled texture on the surface. The question is: What kind of coating should I be using that is not permeable to the polyester resin?
Yes gel coat is a polyester resin finish type coat. If you need primer you will probably have to use also a polyester such as SLICK SAND which is a spray on catalyzed surfacer primer made for polyester resins. I used this type for surfacing corvette fiberglass bodies before epoxy primer.
can't help on this
Thank you Marvin,Isn't a gel coat polyester ?The polyester melts the (sprayed on)primer. I need something between the very smooth and fished primer and the polyester resin. I was trying to avoid trial and error by asking to see if someone knows the solutionGlenn
The only coating I know that will work is gel coat; however, a polyester resin primer if you do not need a finish coat. Otherwise, just trial and error until you find something that will work. Any catalzyed finish might work but I expect that the only sure bets are going to be gel coat or a polyester resin finish They are made to work with the dibasic organic acids and polyhyric alcohols in the resins. Good luck.
is this a water clear resin when dry or does it dry with a tint?
It has a slight pink tint. If you want clear, epoxy resin is better.
I used the resin in my engine bilge area, on my runabout. the resin looks real clear, like water. but the the left over in the cup I had been using dried a little yellow, looks like tree sap...hope that helps.
It drys to a tint, but very light, if it is the same stuff I got before. It had more of a translucent effect as opposed to crystal clear like system 3. I laid over mahogany/marine plywood and the color of the wood looked good. I've bought a number of gallons of this stuff at different times and the color has varied. Hope this helps.Chris
CHRISTOPHER M JOHNSON
what i have drys almost clear . hope this helps
how much wax do you add per ounce of polyester laminating resin to make a finish resin?
I didn't add wax, wanted to do more work.
CHRISTOPHER M JOHNSON
Great for old sailboats
Used this resin on my old sailboats' interior and exterior. Since polyester resin was used to build the boat, it works great. Use protective clothing and a mask. It has strong fumes. I followed Andys' suggestions at Boatworks Today when I applied it.
I highly recommend this product.
I'm not a professional at working with fiberglass but I have learned enough to know that quality resins and glass makes any job easier. I have tried a lot of different types of resins in the past most driven by cheaper prices. For the money total boat resin is the best I have found.
Looking Hookup fishing team
Polyester Resin Recommended
Mixes right lives up the cure time before it shows signs of gelling up. Clean up with acetone.
Laminating resin didn't remain tacky
I have used JD products extensively in the past and all have surpassed expectations. This gallon of laminating resin, however, turned rock-hard/solid after about 12 hours. I followed the activator (MEKP I think) instructions to the letter...exact number of drops per oz, and the temps were around 70F. I have used JD resin, West Marine resin, Bondo resin, etc so I'm very familiar with finish resin, laminating resin, etc and application. Two stars because, as a finish resin, the product would have worked great, but this was supposed to be a laminating resin. I was able to sand up the final 'lamination' (now really hard), and zero resin transferred to the sandpaper...generally laminating resin will gum up coarse grit sandpaper. I'm speculating this was just a batch or lot of resin that was mis-labeled as laminating resin, but was actually finish resin. I contacted JD and they offered to send over a replacement gallon of laminating resin which was great, but I declined, as I was able to make the 'laminating' resin work by coarse sanding it to prep for the finish layers.I will buy from JD in the future, but just be cautious if you leave the final 'laminating resin' layer overnight to finish with a 'finishing resin' coat that the 'laminating resin' may be 'finish resin' and require a coarse sanding.
Total boat Poly resin
I'm giving it 5 stars because ive never had an issue with this resin, also i am not a professional in fiberglass boat repair or fiberglass in general. i cannot compare it to other resins on the market because this is the only one ive ever used. i believe the price point is fair, quality seems to be very good, i have no complaints about the resin. ive almost exclusively used it in cooler temps with no problems. as for JD, customer service is great, shipping is great. cant complain and will continue to purchase their products.
Lockport, New York
Just what my project needed.
I have always liked your products. They are good quality and good price. I will be using the resin to reinforce 1/48 scale of an R/C model of the USS Constitution
Great for Laminating
Works great when you are trying to build-up/apply multiple layers with no sanding between layers.
I would buy again
Purchased by the gallon much better price than evercoat.Worked as well.Big advantage in all accessories mixing cup gloves and eye dropper measures for catalyst allowed making small batches of resin
Update on Basic Directions
I wrote a review this AM after doing a ruinous wet layup. I repeated what I had read in the reviews stating what the gradients on the pipette meant. I was wrong as was whomever wrote the other review. I performed an experiment and found that a teaspoon is about 180 drops from the pipette. Thus, I thought the other gentleman must have been using an eye dropper or something with a larger orifice than the provided pipette. The "1" gradient on the pipette is around 40 drops. Do the math - go from there.