Petit Old Salem hard racing copper bronze is a tough, smooth, synthetic alkyd enamel non-antifouling racing finish. It is used when a boat is dry sailed or stored in non-fouling fresh water. It can be buffed to give a high gloss, ultra-smooth surface. Excellent for trailered boats.
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For dry sailed boats or boats stored in non-fouling freshwater.
Can be buffed to give a high gloss, ultra smooth surface.
Suitable for use on fiberglass, wood and steel hulls.
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Number Of Parts:
Racing Bottom Paint
I have coated my 57 Higgins with this product and I would like to know if it is possible to coat the copper with a clear and what product do I use and what prep do I need to do?Are there and instructions for polishing the finish?
You would have to reach directly out to Pettit on this question. Normally, any clear coats that can endure time below the water line that can be polished to a smooth finish are of the 2-component nature, which probably does not work over this one-part bottom paint. They may have something in mind for you. As far as polishing this product, many people will wet sand to a very high grit. You may be able to try and test in a small spot different polishing methods that people have done to see what you like the best.
JD Tech Associate
I would not do so as marine varnishes are not intended for below-waterline applications.But ..... Just call the Jamestown tech support line. This team is incredibly informed and exists for answering such questions.
I want to buy a quart to touch up dings and scratches on the bottom of my Lyman. I don't really need much. So if I buy a quart what is the shelf life after it has been opened? Will it be any good next spring when I want to touch up this seasons dings?
George - thanks for the advice - especially the avoid dinging it!Mike
I have been using the Old Salem Bronze since 2000 on my Century. I have let it sit for over two years after using a portion of it for touch up with no real issues. The color will not match the old paint on your Lyman when you touch up, so if that is a concern, you may want to paint a larger area for cosmetic reasons. Putting a film of waxed paper on top of the remaining paint in the can will help keep from getting a skin on the paint. Good luck
Thank you this is very helpful.
Thanks Kathy. I plan to clean the lid really well, use wax paper on top and then wrap the whole think in plastic wrap.
That is very helpful advice. Thanks!
It will probably be good a year later, as long as you close the can properly.
Yes, the shelf life is good as long as you make sure that the lid is put back on tightly and it doesn't freeze. I have stored it in my garage, not a heated area, and it has lasted fine for several seasons. Of course, if you store it in a climate controlled area then that's even better.
CHERYL LYNN GAGNE
Shelf Life is dependent on how it is stored. Best sealed in a container that is airtight and container must not rust or contaminate the paint. The paint must be thinned and mixed to attain a solution the same as the original application. It will be a challenge to touch up dings with this paint without being obvious. The entire boat and room must be cleaned the same as the original application as well as the surface being roughed to allow paint to adhere. Apply with a roller, keep paint mixed, keep room clean, no air flow.It might be easier to keep from dinging it!
What primer is used before applying the copper racing hard bronze?
In that case: Apply one coat of Pettit Protect 4700/4701 High Build Epoxy Primer. When thoroughly dry, sand with 80 grit paper and wipe clean again. Apply two coats of 1959 Hard Racing Copper Bronze.
I sealed the bottom first with CPES and followed that with the primer made by Interlux, 2000E. The paint when on just fine!
Thank you, I will be putting a 6 oz layer of fiberglass and fill coats, then the bottom paint.
Unless it is a steel hull, no primer is required. For wood thin the first coat 15%.
For a 20 ft boat would 1 qt cover or do I need to get 2?
I'm a new wood boat owner. Was told my chris craft had a coper bronze bottom. 3 questions Do I need to sand this existing bottom to paint to apply new paint?What product do I use to patch scratches and holes?How much paint do I new to buy for a 19 foot Chris's craft?Thanks
Don't need to sand. One quart will cover. Make sure you buy the Copper Bronze Hard Racing Enamel. There is a product called Copper Bronze Bottom Paint. Don't want that
You should just make sure the old paint is not loose and dull. I would use West epoxy with micro balloons to thicken the epoxy. A quart is more than you will need for 19'. You can use a 9" roller to apply it.
Yes, you need to sand bottom.Use the hard racing bronze to paint holes and scratches.For a 19 ft boat 1 qt should do it.
Randy, you need to just sand the old existing bottom paint scuff it up. Then you can apply the new copper bronze paint to the bottom. 2 quarts will cover your bottom with 2 application. To fill screw holes and scrapes I wuse 3M marine white filler. Good luck randy.James
We have a 1965 37' Chris Constellation. Should we use Petit 1959 or Petit 1933 bottom paint? We want to keep it original.
I'm no expert but I have used both products. I have a 1955 all-wood freshwater boat. Petit 1959 is my choice. It makes for a harder/faster bottom. Make sure your boat is well prepped; it will not adhere well to any old painted areas.
Both are good to use. I use the 1953 because the us is in fresh water and the other One I believe can be used in both application fresh and salt. Good luck James
I have a Century Resorter 1968 and it really looks great against the mahogony.
Can I paint enamal paint over hard antifouling?
I'm not sure what I was painting over, as I purchased the boat as someone was in the middle of a restoration, but I assume the bottom paint was the old lead based red bottom paint.I did some rough sanding (with a mask on), filled in some dings and dents, and then put two coats of the Old Salem Cooper Bronze on. It came out great and has held up beatifully so far after two long seasons in the water.
I would never put the copper bronze enamel over any antifouling sub surface. The purpose of the antifouling is to resist everything from attaching to the surface.By the way, the copper bronze enamel is a great product, but must be applied with great care. The surface must be super clean before you start and remain super clean as well as the air as you apply the copper bronze with a clean roller. The copper in the bronze enamel must be mixed often. If the finished surface is speckled after it dries, it probably is due to lack of cleanliness.
I am not an expert on paint by any means. I've been using the paint in question for many years and will order 2 quarts in the next 2 weeks.Years ago I purchased an anti fouling paint and actually read the directions which said immerse within 8 hours. I called Petit and was told the anti fouling paint was a soft paint and the boat had to be launched within 8 hours. To apply the Bronze paint I had to remove the anti fouling. I never put it on.I've been told to apply a hard paint to a hard paint. My boat is mahogany wood and is painted every year.Best advice it to call the paint mfg.
Hi, Can this paint be applied over any previous painted bottom surface? Thanks!
Can't give an answer to this question. I use this paint on a 1949 chriscraft sportsman. It has always had Cabot hard racing bronze applied to the bottom as it was in waters with heavy algae growth. It does however stick tenaciously to my painted garage floor.Jim O
JAMES T. OLIVER
In my experience, if the previous paint is holding well, painting over was OK. However, I limited painting over to the bottom (between the chines) and aft behind the third frame for the sake of appearance.
LARRY D. DYKSTRA
What is the drying time for this?
I would wait 1-2 days if u have the time b 4a putting her in the water
The Old Salem Bronze dries to the touch overnight, but you are not to launch the boat for four days at 70 degrees application temperature; 2 days at 90 degrees, and 8 days at 50 degrees.It is possible to polish the paint after letting it dry if you wish to do so, according to the manufacturer. I have never done this myself.I use it on my mahogany runabout.
My purchase of this product was several years ago, so I don't recall any specifics about drying time, only that it wasn't a problem. What I do remember is that the last time I ordered this product, there was none in stock, and the next run was too late for the season. So one of your good customer service people explained a competitor's product which was available at half the price, and I found it to be the best bottom paint I ever bought. You shipt it to me on 8/19/11.
LARRY D. DYKSTRA
This paint dries very quickly. On a 60 degree the paint might dry overnight(10-12hrs). On a nice warm day between 80-90degrees the paint will dry to the touch in a little over an hour and ee'll drop the boat on the trailer within 8hrs or so. Good luck.
In my experience with this product over the years, it dries to touch in less than an hour. I wait 24 hours before putting in water.Have been very satisfied with the results.
JAMES T. OLIVER
As with any paint or coating there are many variables not the least of which is temperature. Humidity is also a major factor. In all honesty depending on just these factors the drying time could vary from 1 hour to 6 hours and as much as 30 days for a full cure.I know this isn't very specific but that's the best I can offer with my experience with this product.
I am refinishing a 1963 cruisers inc,do I apply old salem over the finished bottom or over the primer I am applying first ?
I have used on a 1949 ChrisCraft over the years. Followed the instructions. scraped and sanded old paint with orbital sander and painted. If old non adhering paint is not removed, over time the new paint will flake off as you run the boat..
JAMES T. OLIVER
My experience with Old Salem Copper Bronze has always been on a wood bottom. I'm confused by the question. What do you mean by "the finished bottom"? If it's finished, why would you apply primer? What is the bottom material? How is it finished now? How old is the finish? What condition is it in? Rgds.
LARRY D. DYKSTRA
Definitely the primer. I can send pictures of the process on my 1957 classic wood boat.
if customer is refer[ng to bare wood yes a primer sealer should be applied
No primer is necessary, but if there is any anti-fouling paint still on the bottom, it must be removed. This paint goes on best with a hotdog roller.
I have both a 1946 & 1948 Chris Craft Custom. I have refinished the 1946 and the 1948 was a new bottom with virgin wood. To refinish, I sanded the bottom; wiped with a low odor paint thinner and applied the racing enamel. On the new wood, the enamel was applied directly to the wood with no primer. Both methods worked well. While working with this product, I would suggest stiring the enamel often using an electric drill with appropriate paddle wheel..
Is the correct paint for my 61 Century Boat? Do I need to get on a waiting list?
I put it on the bottom of my 61 Chris Craft Cavalier and it worked out perfectly. Looks great, easy to apply and has held up well. I would not hesitate to use this on the bottom of your Century.
Todd,I used Old Salem on a 1959 Chris Craft Sea Skiff. The boat is kept in Lake Michigan fresh water for about 4 months and then stored inside. It was easy to apply and worked well. I would use it again.Chris
Todd, I used this bottom paint on my 1954 CC 28' Semi-Enclosed Cruiser. Whether or not it's tecnically correct for your boat I'm not sure but the paint qualities are excellent.DB
RICHARD DE BOER
Todd:This is the correct paint for your 1961 Century. I use this paint on all the wooden boats that I have owned which is quite a few. This is also the standard bottom paint for Lymans.John
John the boat builder John the boat buil
Todd, I believe it is. I tried some cheaper stuff recommended by a friend but went back to Old Salem Copper. I don't spend alot of time scraping. Power washing works best if you have the time to let it dry completely. I think the color looks better than the other Copper paints I'v e seen. Good luck and e-mail me if you have any more ??? Pete
Hi Todd,My wife and I are not entirely positive about the Bronze bottom paint. We purchased our Resorter in 2009, through Antique Boat Center in Cinncinatti, Ohio-- they will certainly know -- rebuildng/ brokering experts-- you have my permission to reference me if you select to contact them @ 513 242 0808James Landi
Todd this is the correct bottom paint for a Century. I put this on my 49 Seamaidjohn heiderich
I would buy this product again
Restoring my Lyman Runabout with the original bottom paint.
This is a great Paint
this is a great paint, spreads evenly & rather easy to keep a wet edge
So far seems ideal for dry stored boat
Thus far it is functioning well for my dry stored wooden motor launch.