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Jamestown Distributors(800) 497-0010
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BoatLIFE Life-Calk is a long lasting, permanently flexible marine polysulfide sealant that can be sanded, painted and used above and below the waterline. Tack-free in 1 to 3 days, curing in 7-10 days (weather dependent). This sealant exhibits excellent resistance to teak oils, gasoline and diesel fuel.
Note: 1/12 gl sizes fit a standard caulking gun.
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JOINT EXPANSION It is recommended that dimensions be established for each joint in conformance with service conditions. Width of joint may be determined by calculating expansion and contraction of limits of the structure during temperature extremes and multiplying by a factor of 4. For example, if a joint will open and close 1/4" under temperature extremes, the joint should be designed 1/4" times 4, or 1" wide. No joint should be less than 1/4" wide.
INSTALLATION
PREPARATORY WORK The sealant bonding surfaces should be sound, clean and free of contamination such as release agents, water repellent treatment or other surface contaminants. Where adverse conditions are suspected, sanding is advisable.
METHOD OF APPLICATION Life-Calk can be applied directly from cartridges or bulk pails.
APPLICATION PROCEDURES 1. Clean joints and wash with Life-Calk Solvent and Cleaner.
2. Apply bond breaker.
3. Apply BoatLIFE Life-Calk Primer.
4. Apply Life-Calk with a hand or air operated caulking gun, putty knife or trowel, pushing cartridge away from you.
5. Tool seam.
CAUTION: DO NOT OPEN CONTAINER UNTIL READY TO USE
NOTE: It is important that the sealant be tooled to assure complete wetting of the bonding surface in order to obtain maximum adhesion. Care should be taken not to disturb the seal until completely cured.
CURE: Since Life-Calk sealant is a moisture/temperature cure and requires the absorption of moisture from the surrounding atmosphere, an increase in the relative humidity or submersion in water will result in a shorter tack free time and faster cure.
CLEANING OF EQUIPMENT: Wash equipment and tools with BoatLIFE Life-Calk Solvent and Cleaner or Release before material cures. TESTING IS RECOMMENDED.
Life-Calk is also paintable and sandable after complete curing occurs. Since curing time varies with the environment test a small area of the caulking. If the paint does not dry in a reasonable amount of time, a latex primer can be used. Do a second test of a small area.
*Note: Curing time will vary based on temperature, relative humidity, and age of product.
Tips:
To speed cure time, spray a little water onto one-part LIFE-CALK. To clean up tools, equipment and uncured LIFE-CALK use LIFE-CALK SOLVENT AND CLEANER or RELEASE. Push the caulking gun, do not pull it. In cold areas, warm tubes and cartridges before use. Fill in small cracks with LIQUID LIFE-CALK. Use LIFE-CALK PRIMER if there is any question about whether or not wood is oily (except with LIFE-CALK 2-part type P). Remove cured sealants with RELEASE by spraying edge of sealant. Work bonded area between surface and sealant with a scraping tool and RELEASE until sealant is weakened.
How soon after resealing a thur hull fitting can I put the boat back into the water?
Bruce
Tack-free in 1 to 3 days, curing in 7-10 days (weather dependent).
JD Tech Team
Hello - I am trying to reseal the coffin lid on my '88 Mako 231 and trying to determine the best product between life-caulk or life-seal. I've removed as much of the old caulk as I can and plan to scrub the seam as best as possible with Boatlife Solvent and Cleaner. When I re-caulk should I push some caulking cotton to the bottom of the seam first? Then again, which product do you feel would be best, Life-caulk or Life-Seal?Thanks in advance!Bob S.
Bob Swerling
The coffin lid is the part of the deck that covers the gas tank..it is removable so you have access to the tank should you need it every so many years. It's a 160 gallon tank so the size of that cover probably has the surface area of a coffin...or as someone on a forum commented, it's called the coffin because it's where aluminum tanks go to die lol. (Lots of damp and moisture in there) Anyway yes. it's a very large deck plate with a seam all around so it needs to be caulked/sealed. I thought the uses labels were a little ambiguous so was looking for a seasoned soul for guidance...
Bob Swerling
I don't know what you mean by coffin lid on your boat. I drive a sailboat. Life Caulk is my choice for bedding deck hardware, teak trim, etc., things that you expect to have to re-seal at some point down the road due to routine wear. I suspect that Life Seal is a more permanent sealant, may have more adhesive qualities. check the uses label.
DAVID M PILCHER
3M 4200 would be a good alternative. Do not, under any circumstances, use 3M 5200 or anything similar to 5200. That's a much more permanent adhesive - you would destroy fiberglass getting the lid open again.
DAVID M PILCHER
Can life caulk be used over old but stable silicon caulk?
Scott Hampson
thanks....i love this product but Ive discovered that it does NOT have a long shelf live....bought a caulk sized tube at my marina and found it difficult to dispense, cut the tube open and saw that a 1/8 in of caulk had hardened into a "sleeve" around the inside of the tube....
Scott Hampson
Best way to resolve this question is to call boat life and ask them if their caulk will bond to your old silicon.
STEVE CROSS
Thanks
Scott Hampson
No way! Get rid of the silicone before apply caulk.
Paul Munafo
found out it wont. Thanks
Scott Hampson
No.
IRA WAMBLE
Is there any ingredients that are flameable as want to carry on commercial airplane ?
Undisclosed
nah....
ALAN MALNAK
No, it's not regulated but they probably won't allow in a carry on, put it in your luggage in a zip lock bag.
Rick White
Dude,If the plane's on fire, the last thing on anyone"s mind will be the condition of your 5200.
JOHN STAX
When using Life-calk for bedding, should the excess that is pressed from under the fitting be removed before it cures, or would it be best to allow it to cure and then trim the excess off?Thanks,John
John Buckley
Hey John,From my experience with using Boat Life caulk on an antique wood boat I would recommend letting it cure at least for the time recommended and then remove the excess via sanding/trimming. I hope this helps,Pete
PETE BURRS
Life-caulk used to be a polysulfide composition. If this ia the product you use you can allow it to harden and then trim it off...it's quite soft. The cured product cannot be removed with solvents. If you are using Life-Seal this is a polyurethane/silicone composition which I would remove all excess before it cures. This stuff is very hard to cut (and won't accept paint)
JOHN VANWESTENBURG
Hi John,Truth be told, I use Boatlife for the hulls of my wood boats below the waterline and to caulk the deck seams before striping. I use Dolfinite for bedding, trying to minimize the amount that squeezes out and cleaning it up right away with a little mineral spirits. There is a solvent for boat life also but I have never used it on fresh varnish and don't know how safe it would be for young varnish.You might check in and see what the gurus at the Wooden Boat Forum say. They are a great bunch and always helpful.
WILLIAM SCHMIDT
I'm not sure what other users do, buy I wiped the excess before cure. That worked for me.
MARK DIXON
What product would you use to re-attach a fin keel to a Capri 25 ?
John Garner
That's way over my head, but thanks for asking.
BENJAMIN TURNER
I'm assuming that is a fiberglass bottom. If no structural damage was done, I would abrade the bottom boat surface and the keel surface with 80 or 100 grit abrasive. I would use any two part epoxy thickened with milled glass and silica thickener to about peanut butter consistency as the adhesive. Position the in-place keel with some sort of prop until the epoxy cures. I often use some clear, shiny polyethylene film to cover and smooth the excess squeezed out adhesive. This peels off easily when the adhesive has cured and greatly decreases the later sanding/fairing effort. The Thixo Total Boat stuff would also work.
JOHN VANWESTENBURG
I am caulking a wooden lapstrak dingy. Can bright side Interlux polyurethane paint be used over the caulk? If not, what white high gloss paint do you recommend.
John Richmond
It can be, but I recommend using an undercoat of a 2 part epoxy primer before the topcoat
JOHN VANWESTENBURG
Hi Rick,The boat has already had thin epoxy put on and sanded. It was the kind that the wood could absorb.Which method is the most durable to paint the boat. I will keep the Brightside and use theInterlux Prekote if that is a better methodthan using just an enamel finish coat.I would appreciate your advice for the best and most durable finish for the boat bottom and topsides. The boat will be in fresh water, and stored on land. Thanks,John Richmond
John Richmond
Interlux Brightside Polyurethane paint will not work well over Life-caulk according to Interlux. You could use a primer first like Interlux Prekote or use an enamel instead of a polyurethane paint.
Rick White
John,It is recommended that Interlux Pre-kote primer be used first on epoxy, then two coats of Brightsides. I would suggest sanding any excess Life-caulk on the surface down to the wood first leaving only a thin bead on the seam. The problem with the caulk is that it will flex and cause the hard paint to crack.
Rick White
Will this work on rubber pond liner?
Undisclosed
Hello,Life caulk is great bedding material. It also does well exposed to weather like in a joint. Life caulk would stick to rubber pond lining if it were clean and dry when applying. Life caulk would work best with pond liner if the liner was also mechanically fastened. If the caulk is holding the liner together then I thing 3 m 5200 would work better. 3m 5200 is a tenacious adhesive.
NATHANIEL ARNOT
NO
HERB DELOACH
No. The only thing that will work on a pond liner is the glue that is made specifically for that liner. Usually a pvc glue. It has to basically melt the liner together. Anything else would be a waste of time and money.
MICHAEL MATHIS
I think you want Life Seal because it does not damage plastic. LifeCalk may not damage plastic, but it might and it works best when attaching metal or wood to fiberglass.LifeSeal is better to glue plastic to fiberglass or plastic to plastic or anytime you're working with plastic.Boatlife is a good company, use the product soon because if it sits too long, it thickens and is not effective then.I've called Boatlife before for questions and they were helpful. I'm not able to leave a telephone number for Boatlife
Mark Nance
Not sure what Rubber Pond Line is???
KEVIN JOHNSON
Which caulk is better for caulking teak decks, West Marine Multicaulk sealant or Boat Life Calk?
Helpful Herb Helpful Herb
I used Boat Life Caulk on my Catalina sailboat when I replaced all the exterior teak, handrails etc. This has solved all leaks. I used the Life Caulk primer also. I researched on google the best sealant for teak to fiberglass and Boat Life polysulfide caulk is considered excellent for this job. A little messy, but they all are and I'd use it again. I hear it's got a shelf life, so use it as soon as possible. I can't speak about the West Marine product other than my gut tells me to buy Boat Life.
Mark Nance
I am not familiar with West Marine Multicaulk, but I don't care, I'am using Boat Life Calk because of endurance elasticity and I won't have to calk again for life.
CHARLES HISE
I am re-finishing and sealing my 12' wooden sailboat. It's a pretty little thing - but it leaks. There is about 14" of "freeboard" between the hull and the deck, so the centerboard sheath is about 14" high. I am focusing on being sure that the centerboard sheath and the keel are tightly secured and waterproof. I have the proper wood sealer, primer and paint. I had in mind using the Boatlife caulk between the pieces of wood (even though they will be tightly screwed together) to assure that any minor gaps would be sealed. I also intended to put a "bead" of caulk along the joints to further seal the joints and assist in keeping water out. I would not want to have a gap between the pieces of wood, as is mentioned in the directions on line. What do you suggest? Carl Webber
Carl Webber
Hello Carl, I have been using life caulk for many years on the bottoms of my wood boats to caulk seams and have found no product its equal.Now that being said life caulk is a sealant (polysulfide) that cures even underwater not an adhesive/ sealant like 3ms 5200 product,so it will add minimal strength to your structure,but being you are using mechanical fasteners it will work great filling and sealing minor gaps but also giving you the ability to get it apart if the need ever arises.Running a bead along the joints to further seal them this is the right product for that application as well.Life caulk cleans up with mineral spirits and you can run real nice beads wearing a glove dipping your gloved finger into mineral spirits then dragging your finger over the bead....Hope this helps Tom
THOMAS NOORMAE
Boat life is a great product. I have used it in many oodles boat projects. To insure a good seal it should be used between the two surfaces when constructed. It can be used after as in beads but will not be as effective.
RAYMOND LEONARD
Carl,Boatlife caulk has been around forever and is an effective and user friendly product. It will perform well in the application you describe. Be sure that the mating surfaces are clean and free from contaminants that may affect adhesion (oil, etc.). I would also check the fit of the sheath to the keel to make sure there are no major gaps. You could also use 3M 4200 but I like the Boatlife because it doesn't kick off in the tube for months so if you need some later, you don't have to buy another tube.
ALAN HILLS
Hi Carl,You are right, the joint between the keel and the centerboard trunk needs a good layer of sealant, since leaks are common there. Boatlife should work well. It's a polysulfide which is great for sealing but not as strong an adhesive as polyurethanes (3M 5200, Sikaflex). The downside to polyurethanes is that they are a bear to take apart for repairs. So use 5200 if you want maximum strength, but the poor guy who has to fix your boat 20 years from now will curse you trying to pry it apart. If the screws/bolts are plenty strong enough to hold the parts together, stick with polysulfide.Start with a good snug fit. Don't make a "gap" but, if you can, make a small "vee" along the edge of one of the two mating parts, ideally on the outside of the hull, to assure at least an eighth inch thick layer of sealant. The vee doesn't have to be more than 1/4 inch deep. This will give you a "gasket" effect, and the sealant should stay in there forever, as opposed to laying a bead along the outside of the joint, which I've never seen done on a boat, and strikes me as funky and likely to pull off. If the joint is well made and you get a good layer of sealant between the mating parts, you should have a leak-free centerboard trunk.Good luck!PJ
PHIL JANS
I use this to seal between wooden toe rail and deck. After one season the calk dried and cracked. Having to remove and re-due with another product. Would not recommend.
JAMES GREGORY
3.519
Boat life
2
This product is a little too fluid for caulking bottom of boat upside down.
Al
Georgia
Not compatible with traditional alkyd-enamel based paint
1
Not compatible with traditional alkyd-enamel based paint such as Kirby Paint! Painting over the fully cured Life Caulk, including the Kirby Paint Primer, would not dry and the surface remained "wet". Given my observation, it appears that the paint and caulk are having an adverse reaction where the caulk is softened or slightly dissolved. Only option was to remove all traces of the caulk and start over. In my opinion the root cause is a chemical incompatibility and not a surface contamination issue as some have suggested. Other than this compatibility issue, the caulk seals and sands fine.
RLeiter
Alexandria, VA
Life-caulk is great
5
I have an older (1977) sailboat that came to me with multiple small leaks. The life caulk has been my salvation by giving me a strong caulk that is easy to use. I am on my second tube and would highly recommend it.
Wendy
Washington, DC
Sealed my stanchions and stay fittings perfectly!
5
I was getting small leaks in my sailboat. I suspected the stanchion and stay fittings. I bought Boat Life caulk to address the issue. It was easy to use and worked like a gem.
Wendy
Washington DC
This product works
5
This is the only product that will patch a small leak underwater on your hull. I don't know if it works from the inside with pressure behind the leak but definitely works with pressure against the leak underwater. Buy a tube and keep it onboard.
Master Captain Paul
Florida
great stuff
5
This is the best all round sealant for boats (and cars) Jamestown the only distributor that carries certain colors
LEP
south shore MA
Easily Removable Sealant
5
Fittings can be removed with ease, Jamestown did not include feed-tube with product!!!
Cap'n Ed
Toms River, NJ
Great product
5
I used this on my Com-Pac 25 which has cherry wood on the cockpit cowlings under the winches. Water was getting under the wood through failed white caulking, so I scraped that out an put in BoatLife Caulk mahogany color. It was really easy to apply, not messy, easy to clean up, and a beautiful match for the cherry that had been protected with penetrating eppoxy and 6 coats of varnich. Very pleased!!
STEVE at RestHarrow Boatworks
FLETCHER, VT
Reluctant user
3
Disappointed by lifespan of product. Will be looking at non-marine products for above waterline.Not sure if Lifecaulk's formula changed over the years. I have decided to use Lifeseal for rebedding my chain plates since the lifecaulk crumbled out from there as well as at the toe rail/hull connection. I used Lifeseal for solar vents and the seal was perfect. My dissatisfaction with Lifecaulk has also been echoed by other members of the boating community. However, it still may be diesel fuel proof.
Cynical1
Columbia, SC
Life caulk teak
5
Jamestown is the only vendor who carries Life Caulk in teak
Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take 2-4 weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.
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