Fein Starlock Plus Teak Blades for Boat Deck Repair
Fein Starlock Plus Teak Blades are the fastest, safest way to remove old caulking, adhesive or sealant from between your teak deck boards without damage to the wood.
The end of the blade is shaped to scoop out the old caulking, leaving enough room to re-apply new caulking.
To prevent damage to your decking, select a blade that is slightly smaller than the caulk line you want to remove.
Also works to remove caulking in difficult areas such as curves, cleats, and gunwales.
Sold one (1) blade per pack.
Starlock Plus blades and accessories fit OMTs with the Starlock Plus or Starlock Max mounting system directly, including most Fein and some Bosch OMTs; others will require an adapter. Check for compatibility with your OMT manufacturer.
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The Starlock System
Fein's 3D, snap-in Starlock mounting system is the new standard for Fein oscillating multi-tools. This innovative design allows Starlock accessories to be interlocked in three dimensions for better stability, increased efficiency, and greater safety.
Starlock accessories are available in standard Starlock, Starlock Plus, and Starlock Max versions designed for use with specific Fein multitool power ranges for greater longevity of the multitool itself.
Fein standard Starlock blades are compatible with a variety of OMTs; Starlock Plus blades and accessories fit Fein and some Bosch OMTs directly, others will require an adapter. Please refer to Using the Fein Starlock System for details, or check with your OMT manufacturer for compatibility.
Starlock Plus Teak Blades for Boat Deck Repair Fit:
AFSC 18 QSL
AFSC 18 QCSL
FSC 500 QSL
Fein MultiMaster Cordless
Fein MultiMaster Top
Fein MultiMaster Start Q
Fein MultiMaster QuickStart
Fein Cordless MultiTalent QuickStart
Fein MultiTalent Start Q
Fein Professional-Set Caulking
Fein Professional-Set Wood
AFSC 18 QSL - Wood
Refer to Using the Fein Starlock System for other compatible OMTs.
Can these Fein blades be used with a Porter-Cable Oscillating Multi-Tool?
Yes, in fact, that is the tool I use them with. However, you need to use the adaption ring that converts the hexagonal configuration to a matted surface. It comes with the Porter-Cable tool kit but you purchase it at most home improvement stores.
Not sure if it would - it might if it could be properly attached.
don't know....check with Home Depot, or some place like them....great blade....
Will this blade fit on any other oscillating tool? like the skil multi-tool? or is there one made for the skil? I need this blade and the tool but the Fein tool is way too expensive and other manufacturers make a more affordable tool but I can't find the blade. Thank yo so much! ;D
I can't speak for every manufacturer, but we used it on a Rigid multi-tool with no problems. This blade, plus the reefing knife were huge timesavers!
it's about the same price. The Skil Multi tool is $59. That's a significant savings. I'm just gonna go and try the Fein blades on the Skil at the store...if they fit...I know I'm golden! Thanks for your help guys! ;D
I forgot to mention that, not only will Fein blades and accessories fit the Rockwell, nearly all of the other brands of blades will also fit the Rockwell. Again, I personally like the Rockwell Sonicrafter X2 model. This interchangeability is obviously a huge advantage.
The Fein MultiMaster Teak Blades will fit most of the Rockwell line of oscillating tools. I am using the Fein Teak Blades on a Rockwell Sonicrafter X2, which is actually a little more powerful than the Fein MultiMaster and is easier to change bits and accessories with it's tool-less blade mounting system. As you have noted, you can get one of these for considerably less than the Fein, and I am convinced that it is just as high quality after looking at most of the tools on the market.Good Luck
My deck seams are 3/16" what size Fein cutter should I buy?
I have 2 blades - 1 is a little smaller than my deck seam. The second one is equal to the width and it works much better. You can angle the blade slightly to pick up residual caulk. With a little practice, you get pretty good.
I found that the smallest blade works best. I take the seam out in 2 passes so the blade should be a little bigger than half of your total seam width.
I would use a 3/16. The blade needs to touch the wood to remove all of the old sealant. Fein USA lists this number as their 3/16 model, 6 39 03 202 01 9. I think that would be the Jamestown Distributors 5mm blade.
cannt remember what one I bought. Convert 3/16 to inches and go from there. This tool works like a champ
Will this work on my Rockler tool?
I have no idea whatsoever. Sorry. Call Rockler they should be able to tell you.
The fastening pattern on the Fein teak blade fits over the star on the Fein Multimaster. I am unfamiliar with the Rockler fastening pattern so I think you should contact Rockler and ask them the question before you make the investment.
JP, This will work on a rockler tool. You must make sure that the head piece is tightened up enough otherwise the fein blade will break. at the fitting to the head. They are awesome blades. The fein tool is worth it's weight in gold. I do deck work and have for about 20 years and am only on my third fein. These new blades make seems 1/4 of the time. Hope this helps. Cheers Vanessa
Not familoar with that tool. If the holes match up maybe. Best to stock woth what you have. Works great with the Fein tool.
I am not sure as I am not familiar with what a Rockler tool is. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help.
I have an old blackjack in quite good shape however my deck seams are ready to be renewed. I presume I should go for the tool to fit the smallest seam and perhaps use it in both directions on those that are a little wider. Any reason not to?Chip
wassa old blackjack? We have a 40 ft. Albin trawler. The Fein has a been great help. We had lots of teak to do. As far as direction if you go to the grain in stead of down sea the blade will grab material from the sides and splinter the edge. Get two tool blades as they do wear down. Jay aka Mudskipper/
This is a good tool and will remove the bulk of the old caulk. It does make sense to use the tool that will fit in the smallest seam. You do not want to cut the edge of the planks with it. Our caulk (MARITIME TEAK DECK CAULK) will adhere to the old caulk that is left, as long as it is not crumbling or seperating from the plank edge. Be sure to blow out or vacuum the seam to get all of the dirt out of it and then wipe it with alcohol or acetone. If you do want to remove the caulk that the Multimaster didn't get. Take some 60 or 80 grit sticky back sandpaper and put it on a thin piece of plywood that will fit in the seam and work it back and forth. This can also be used to help even out the seams. If you have more questions, don't hesitate to call.Bob SchultzOperations Manager/Maritime Wood Products772-287-2919
That what I did and it worked out ok. If you go too big you take a chance.Be carefull with the fein. It is really easy to start a large splinter if you are too much in a hurryBrad
Chip. Thats exactly what I did for my 36' Albin trawler and it worked out fine. It took a little getting used too but the tool and the job were new to me, and once I got the hang of it, things went along a lot faster than I though they would. I also found the grout removal tool to be by far the easyest way to trully clesn up the sides of the joints. even though it wore out the bit the time it saved and the job it did was well worth it. good luck to you. Peter
It will save alot of time and headache if you spring for the narrowest and widest blade you need. Making two or more passes with the narrow one is too tedious and you will tend to gouge the teak. I have three sizes now for my 1970 Grand Banks. What is a blackjack?
Hi,I don't think so. I used the tool to reef out the deck seams on my GB36, which were all about the same width. Two passes would make the seam wider, but it might be hard to keep the seams straight. If you have a lot of deck with seams to be widened, it might be better to use a small Skil saw with stacked blades and a guide pin on the base for the long runs, and use the Fein Multimaster for the tricky bits. Good luck.Roger
Other than the extra time involved I can't think of any reason not to try it especially if the seams aren't an exact match for the width. I have both sizes but I find the larger size easier to use.
perfectjust go slow until you get the hang of it
Chip, I have a '84 Hans Christian 33T with a lot of teak deck seams. I bought this unique tool to accomplish this very difficult job. It is in my opinion the perfect tool for the job. Use the tool for the narrowest seams and it will trim the wider ones. The tool is sharp and the wood wil trim as easily as the old caulk, but with control and slow speed you can avoid cutting into the wood grain. The tool stays sharp for a long time and I used 1 tool to clear the seams on my boat. as long as you don't hit any metal fasteners in the process. Good luck, Doug
I went with the same approach when I sized the 'teak blade' to match my seams; sizing to the smallest seam. It turns out this was a good way to go. In practice, I would cut along one seam edge, then come back to do the other. While the tool blade is hands down better than reefing the old way, it can grab a splintering edge. Best to go with the grain on each seam edge. BTW, I thought this was a pretty penny to pay for a single blade, but that blade has remained sharp throughout use.
This thing works like a champ. The old caulk just peels right out.
I have not used my tool a great deal, but I think you want the width of the tool as close to the width of the groove as you can get it. That will facilitate removing the caulk all in one swipe, rather than running repeatedly thought the same groove.
Chip, I don't think you are going to like my answer, but since you asked ... I would go for blades that are an exact fit. Yes that might mean buying more than one blade and yes they are expensive. They are also very sharp and I don't think I could hold them in the track if there wasn't the other side of the channel acting as a guide. Even with a close fit it is easy to take some of the teak which gives you a goofy look, unless you sand it out even. There is also a sanding tool which was almost as cool as the Fein blade for getting the last of the residue out. Please don't shoot the messenger.Ol Dave
I would buy and use again.
It requires a steady hand and good eye sight. It will cut the teak just as easy as the old grout.
This tool is great for cutting out old culk
The caulk channels in 1989 my boat are a 1/4" wide. I first tried a utility knife and scrapper. It took way too much time and energy. Then I tried a router. That was way too hard too control. So I bought the Fein 1/4" cutter and found it fit too tight in the channel as it would drift off and start cutting into the teak :-( So then I got the 3mm cutter. I go down one side then down the other side of the channel. Takes longer but is much easier to control. Also the bottom of the cutter has a rounded bottom so you will have to scrap the caulk out of the bottom corners with a caulk scraper.
Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
clean and sharp
Great blade. Stays sharp a very long time. Used it for teak seam caulk removal but also good for cutting coves lines in hull planking. Wish they also made a 60Â° "V" blade and a 2 mm blade.
Excellent Blade! I used it to remove the caulk from the entire deck on my 42' Grand Banks. Big Job and it held up. It works on different oscillating tools. Be sure to choose the correct blade width...too small and you will have to pass twice on groove to fully remove caulk.
Huntington Beach, CA
Fein multimaster teak blades
Just purchased a 4mm blade and used it to remove seam compound on my 36' Grand Banks. It was easy to use, but as I was only repairing a few seams, making the joins to the existing seam compound was a bit tricky. Complete reseaming of the whole deck would be a long task.
Fein Starlock Plus Teak Blades for Boat Deck Repair