Fits 2 in x 6 in or 2 in x 4 in standard bunk boards
Slide on or off with less effort
Easy to Install (see instructions below)
1. With the boat on the trailer, determine the forward most point where the boat makes contact with the bunks. 2. Unload boat from the trailer. 3. Place Bunk Slick centered on the rear end of bunk so that the bunk slick is even with the end of the carpeted bunk. 4. Space Bunk Slicks on carpeted bunk and space evenly with no more than 12 inches between each Bunk Slick. 5. Area to be "covered" is from the rear end of the carpeted bunk to 5 inches past the most forward point where the boat hull comes in contact with the carpeted bunk (below). 6. Using the screws provided, attached the Bunk Slicks to the carpeted bunks
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3 in x 16 in
1-3/4 in x 17 in
Tie Down Marine
My boat is fiberglass and weighs 3500 lbs., will there work for this weight?
THEY WORK GREAT FOR MY 1100 LB. PONTOON BOAT. SORRY THAT DON'T REALLY ANSWER YOUR QUESTION.
Hi,sorry, I cannot answer I use them for a light wooden sailing dinghy, and they are great...
i don,t know ,i installed them over carpet marerial&it seems i will have to rid or carpet to see if that will work better. im thinkng of putting sotid bungs my boat is a 17 ft catamaran style with full tunnel still not happy with launching boat ,sorry i can,t give more info
They should, they are made of a rigid plastic screwed into the top of your wood bunks. Should be fine if the wood that is attached to is solid.
Yes they would work . If you have bunks on your trailer put the strips on with little to no space between the strips . Your boat will slide easy . Make sure to Strap your boat down on front with winch and rear as if on a hill the boat could slide .
I think so. My boat weighs about the same, and they work fine.
Yes the bunk sticks are indestructible as far as weight and make launching on a boat ramp much easier than slinging on carpet especially if the ramp is not at a ideal angle for sliding off.
Can these be used with an aluminum riveted boat?
The slicks that I have are for the 1 3/4" wide bunk. My 14' aluminum John Boat has no problem sliding on or off the trailer. Although my boat is welded instead of riveted I would not anticipate a problem with a riveted boat.
yes they work well on my 16 aluminum bass boat and I see no reason why they it wouldn't work on riveted models
how many bunk slicks come in a package?
10 I think. They are still in the package up at the lake house. I had a friend that used them for his pontoon boat as I was going to. He needed at least 2 packages as the weight just bends the unsupported portions of the wooden bunkers. He was happy with them once he got them in the right place and they were supported properly.
8 I believe
There are 10 pieces, each 3X 16 inches.
10 - 3 X 16" slicks per package.
I recently rebuilt my trailer. I used carriage bolts for the bunks but now I need to cover the holes where the bolts go down through? What would you suggest?
I tightened the carriage bolts where they sunk into the wood and were flush with the face of the board. I did not try to fill in the small indention were the head of the bolt was. Anyway, the slicks have worked great.
Thanks Doug, I appreciate the response. I did as you mentioned as well but the hole in the carpet is what I was referring to. I will buy a set of the slicks for each end of the bunk where the carriage bolts where installed. That will keep the carpet from tearing open any further.
Not sure what you mean by covering the holes. If you recessed the bolt head and are trying to cover the resulting depression you can either just cover it with all weather carpet again or use bunk slicks.
Are these rubber or plastic?
they are plastic and work very good with my 16' alum. bass boat, very little effort loading and unloading
They are plastic.
Sorry for the delay but I only opened the box today. They appear to be made of a man made material. They are somewhat flexible and will probably work well with some Silcone spray that I have always used on the carpeted bunks.
These are plastic I have them under my 19' Sea Ray didn't notice a lot of improvement over carpet
These are semi-rigid plastic.
they are plastic, not as slick as I thought. Still had a hart time loading my 14 foot pontoon boat.
Can this item be used for a 5000 pound boat?
My boat is 8000lb ,I have had the slicks on for 3 yrs.w/ great results. No failures.
I would think so. Handles my 4,000 +/- lb boat quite nicely. If it were me, I would give it a try first, then maybe buy an extra set and remove all spacing if it does not perform as you like.
J MICHAEL CATRON
JohnIn all honestly I have not had the time to install them. My neighbor used them on a 20 ft pontoon boat and feels they are ok. He had to reinstall them a second time because he spread them equally on his bunks but found that those that were not supported directly by metal supports underneath just caused the 2x4 bunk to bend. He reinstalled them above each metal support under the bunkers and it worked much better, not perfect, but better.
I have these under a 4200 lb Sea Ray that's only 18 ft long They work fine and if you put them at 3 inches apart and use enough should be fine. Don't skimp. They aid but boat still drags but eaiser then before installing pads
Do the bunks have to be carpeted?
Depends on how particular you are about your hull. I am not, and would say no. Especially if you plan to install them in a continuous fashion, with no gaps.
J MICHAEL CATRON
No I did not carpet bunk slicks.It would kind of defeat the purpose. Dave
I have done it both ways. I actually like it better to install the slicks without carpeting underneath. Wood will dry out quicker and probably last longer without carpeting on it. I like sawing cypress for my bunks and then put the slicks straight on top of the boards.
No, I don't think they have got to be carpeted. But be certain to purchase enough of the bunk slicks to keep your hull off the wood bunk surface. The slicks actually keep your hull off the carpet and/or bunk whichs helps with the drying process of your hull and trailer bunks.this product definitely works for me
No, the bunks do not have to be carpeted. Carpeting on the bunks provides a smooth surface for the boat to slide/rest upon and the slicks perform the same function. I've found that applying a bit of cooking spray, e.g. "Pam", helps the boat slide on the slicks. I've used mine for over two years now and they work every bit as well as advertised.
My 16' aluminum boat bottom has corrosion where the boat sits on the 2"x4" bunks especially in the area of the bunk support brackets. There is pitting in the metal where the paint has worn off the bottom. I Have a good grade of carpet on the bunks. Apparently the carpet is holding moisture (salt water) and corroding the aluminum. The support brackets are galvanized steel with stainless steel lag bolts.Are the "Bunk Slicks" the answer or is there a bunk material on the market that does not hold moisture? Can electrolysis be the problem between the SS screws, steel supports and aluminum hull?Ken
Ken,Sounds like any or all of your concerns could be at work. Add to that the chemicals used to treat the 2x4's and you probably have the whole thing acting like a giant battery. I think the only way to ensure there is no electrical flow is to insulate the entire bunk and slicks won't do it. I would head to Home Depot and buy some 4x4 plastic fence posts. Rip them lengthwise on a table saw so that you have covers to fit the entire length of the bunks. Get rid of the carpet and screw the covers on from the side. Use a slightly oversize hole and a screw with a large head or a washer to allow for heat expansion. They're not as slick as the type of plastic used in trailer slicks but should work fine for a light weight boat. I used these on a 15 ft fiberglass sailboat and they work fine.
when you used bunk skids, did you use carpet?
They would have to be higher than the nap of the carpet that is exposed between the slicks so that no portion of the hull is in contact with the wet carpet. If there is any contact between the wet carpet and the aluminum I believe there is the potential to induce a current. You might also consider removing the carpet and placing the slicks directly on the bunk boards if you think they are a better solution.
Donald,I agree. I think the bunk carpet is holding some salt water (I flush with fresh) long enough to cause the corrosion. Also the bunk wood is treated. The corrosion is where the bunk mounts attach to the bottom side of the wood. No metal touches the bottom of the boat. Are the bunk slicks made of a type of plastic? If so do you think they would insulate the aluminum boat from the galvanic action and moisture?Thanks, Ken
Ken I have a 22' pontoon I used bunk slicks in place or carpet., the screws are counter sunk and don't touch the hull. Have not had any corroding and the boat is easy to load and unload. Lannie
Thanks. That is a novel idea. Curious. If the Bunk slicks are plastic and they are mounted on the top of my bunks, wouldn't that insulate the boat from the bunks? The boat sits on the trailers' 2 bunks.Thanks again, Ken
Sounds like stray current to me. If that is the problem, I can't see how bunk slicks would help.
DONALD M FICK
How long are these and how many are included in the pack?
The 1-3/4" comes in 8 pieces and the 3" comes in 10 pieces.
can the bunk slicks be used with a pontoon boat ?
Absolutely, but it takes quite a few if you have a three log pontoon boat.I am not completely sold on the need, however as if you have a ramp with adequate drop off, they aren't necessary in my opinion.Definitely a help for shallow ramps.
Trailer Bunk Slicks
Screws are to short and don't bite the wood well. They can be stripped to easy. I will have to replace with longer screws to be safe