Rot Fix is an easy to use, low viscosity epoxy wood sealer, primer, and consolidant for repair and restoration of rotted, deteriorated, dried out or spongy wood. RotFix is a component of The EndRot System. It creates a, sound, waterproof base for repair and restoration filler putty. A unique measuring/application bottle is included with the 1.5 Pint Kit. With this bottle you can accurately measure, mix and apply RotFix in batches from 2 ounces to 7 ounces. 2-to-1 Mix Ratio.
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Mix Ratio by Volume: 100:50
Mix Ratio by Weight: 100:43
Total Solids: 100 percent
Mixed Viscosity: 600 cps
Mixed Color: Amber
Pot Life at 77 degrees F: 60 Minutes
Cure Time at 77 degrees F: 8 Hours
Number Of Parts:
Do l get a measure/application bottle with the 1.5 quart the Rotfix epoxy?Thankyou
A unique measuring/application bottle is included with the 1.5 Pint Kit.
Is this product sold n stores. If so where can I purchase in MA?
HiI never bought this in a store but Jamestown shipping is A+ usually is at my door the next day.
Great company and great products, but they must have a computer sending these questions to a random customer. Good product, but I live in Kansas and have never been to MA, so can not answer your question. I buy from Jamestown Distributors by mail.
I bought mine online but I believe I saw System Three products at our local Woodcraft store.
I am incorporating an old wood Victorian era door into our new Victorian-style home, but the door needs some work. Can RotFix be used to seal door surfaces and edges against moisture intrusion, preventing changes in ambient relative humidity from causing the door to expand and contract?
Barry, Thanks for your prompt response...didn't expect to hear back so quickly.Ed
EdRotFix works will to stabilize distressed areas of wood. The surface of the treated areas will repel moisture. I have always covered the repaired item with a layer of epoxy treated glass cloth. John
Thanks, John... appreciate your feedback.Ed
I use the rot fix on old boats so from that perspective it should work fine it will darken the wood and the epoxy should be protected from ultra violet rays [sun] with at least a UV varnish Figure out you mixing method as the system three is scant on directions
LINCOLN DAVIS 111
From my limited experience, I would say yes. I have an 1870's era home and have used RotFix as a base coat when restoring wood window sash. I strip the sash to bare wood and apply RotFix prior to primer and finish coat paint. I've only been using this procedure for two maybe three years, hence the limited experience qualifier. It seems to be working well.
I remember seeing a chart showing how different finishes did at keeping moisture out of wood and epoxy did the best. Assuming the door has been stripped to bare wood, I would surmise that this penetrating epoxy is probably a good product for what you propose. I'm not sure if it would do better or worse than a coat of thicker epoxy on the surface. However, wood will expand and contract; several coats of finish can only keep the moisture out for so long. Sealing out the moisture may eliminate the impact of short term humidity spikes, but won't totally eliminate the effect of long term seasonal variation. I'm a woodworker; boatbuilders might have deeper insight into the issue.
Thank you, Gregory....much appreciated.Ed
CAn this epoxy also be used to bond wood together,after it is saturated with the epoxy,or can a thicker epoxy be used over this epoxy after it cures?
No, RotFix is a consolident not a bonding epoxy. Once the RotFix has thoroughly cured you can use any bonding epoxy to secure the two surfaces. If you do not want to wait you must use a bonding epoxy manufactured by System Three that System Three recommends and is compatible with RotFix.
This is a very thin epoxy. You could bond wood together after it is saturated, but likely would not be the best bond as it does not fill differences in required thickness very well.However, a thicker epoxy seems to have bonded very well as I used this technique two years ago and it still holding well. I used automobile epoxy for the thicker epoxy as I had that in stock.
We will typically remove rot from the wood using scraping tools and wire wheels/brushes then we will coat the wood with the system 3 and apply thickened epoxy putty which adheres very well so we can get back to the original shape.
Sorry, I used it to build up, but I never tried to bond 2 pieces of wood together.
I do not know. I only used it as a primer.
Is it stainable and paintable?
Paintable, yes. It won't absorb primer and paint like wood will so make sure you give it more time to dry. Stainable, not really. If you try staining it will be lighter in color than the wood getting stained. You can tint the epoxy but try to paint it since most epoxies can be damaged with UV light.
Paintable but not stainable. Paintable with latex paint, still showing good adhesion after three years. Temperature 10 degrees in winter & 100 degrees in summer.
It is paintable. No exigences with staining it
Sand and paint. Stain will lay on the surface if you do not wipe to hard but will not perpetrate the epoxy.
paintable yes, stainable doubtful.
Not stainable because it is basically non porous(plastic when cured). Paintable with a good oil based primer in our experience.
Hello, I have some rot under a fiberglass walk and is loose . Does the wood under the panel need to be dry or is it ok to still be wet when installing this product.? Thanks
if the wood is wet the cell walls are not going to absorb the epoxy. you need the wood dry to effectively use this product.
The wood needs to be dry for best results. I routinely use my wife's hair dryer and an extension cord to dry hard to reach places. The edge of the fiberglass could be raised and held up with a few wood wedges until you get system 3 in place. System 3 is a liquid as opposed to a stiff mixture and will run downhill which makes it very good for areas that are hard to reach.
This product is applied to dry wood not wet. The product works by filling the wood cells with epoxy that was once filled with a normal moisture content. This is why the mfger recommends drilling a pattern of holes to ensure that the epoxy soaks into the effected areas. The epoxy will not displace the water in the saturated wood.
I am in Southern California. Is there a vendor in my area for your Rot Fix kit?
Why ask me? I'm in Massachusetts.
I live on the East Coast and have no idea if there are any local vendors. I ordered the product I used directly from Jamestown
We can get it from our local ACE hardware.
I have three removable plywood floorboats with teak holly vaneer that got wet and are delaminating on the ends in my 21' daysailer. If I drill holes, use suringes and clamp the ends, can I save the pieces? Thanks.
Stand board on end. Fill end voids with epoxy. Keep treating until voids pool and overflow. Wipe up excess epoxy. This process will be a little messy. Use heavy plastic sheet (1 mill or more) between two boards to clamp the treated area. I use wax paper but it will leave places that need to be sanded. This is a slow process as each area of de-lamination must be worked one area at a time. End result will be functional, pretty may not be an option.
I have had great success using rotfix on partially rotted wood. Rather than drilling holes, I think I would stand the piece on end and let the rotfix soak in. It is very liquid and flows quite well. You can start with the suringe if the delamination is farther back from the end. Hope this helps.
Most likely Wood has to be absolutely dry
Good product easy to work with. I think that will work fine. Make sure the plywood is DRY...
I don't think RotFix is what will solve your problem. RotFix penetrates solid wood lignin to consolidate it, but what you're trying to do is to consolidate all the layers back into a cohesive multilayer sheet.Plywood is made by pressing sheets of material together under pressure. Your sheets have lost adhesion/cohesion between the layers. You want to use an adhesive, possibly applying as you mention, but depending on the area that is delaminated, you will need a press like a book binders press or sandwich the ply between two rigid sheets of metal and apply pressure to force the laminations back together. So you need to re glue and reform all the separate layers back into a solid sheet. Try a good epoxy adhesive, but think thru how it will be reformed back into a sheet during the glue up process. Good Luck
Will your product work on the bottom of a redwood drinking water tank?
It will only stick if the wood is dry, not sure it wood be considered food safe if it's going on the interior.We have had great luck with it. it is very thin so penetrates well. may want to use two coats.
Dear Anthony C, Happy New Year!Just to be clear legally, I am not an employee of either Jamestown Distributors or System Three Resins. I am a user of the RotFix products for many years. I have not used the product to stabilize a redwood drinking water tank.The product packaging states that it contains no dangerous solvents and once cured is compatible with most paint systems.There is a two paragraph statement on the same packaging panel that states: Safety Always wear protective disposable gloves when using this product. Avoid skin contact. Skin senitization may result from prolonged and repeated contact. There are specific directions on what to do if use causes soreness, redness, blistering, or symptoms of irritation, stop use and see a physician immediately; there are also directions on what to do if eye contact occurs, or swallowing of Part A or Part B occurs. There is also a bolded WARNING: This product contains chemicals known in the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.Here is the manufacturer's contact info from the packaging side panel. Sustem Three Resins, Inc., 3500 W. Valley Hwy. North Suite 105, Auburn, Wa 98001. Good luck and may the New Year bring a solution to your leaky tank.
Sure will ........we repaired an outside pillar on our home that was rotted about one third around the pillar......we dug it out and filled it in with Rot fix....we let it dry and sanded area then painted area....looks new and repair will never rot...a word of caution. We spilled rot fix on cement and there is nothing that can remove stain....
I used the System Three Rotfix on the interior wood framing members of a 1960's Snipe sailboat and it did a great job in sealing the weathered wood. I cannot say if it would work on redwood, but as it soaks into the pores of the wood, I don't see why not.
I have used this product for many jobs. The product remained water tight even when I used it as a retaining wall for overflow of a hot water heater... the product will adhere and maintain it's shape. I am sorry but I do not know if it is safe for potable water.
If its installed properly.I don't know as far as drinking out of the tank after.I believe its a very good product,easy to use.
where can i buy near Saugus ma.? (north of boston ma
Try Rockler in New Hampshire. They normally stock the product set Rot Fix and Sculpwood. Not as good a price as Jamestown though.
go on-line to Jamestown Distributors, they will send it right to you...
Order it from Jamestown dist excellent material ships out fast. Roy
System Three RotFix Repair Epoxy
Great for application to horizontal or nearly so surfaces. Penetrates well and really solidifies the old wood. Nearly impossible to use effectively on vertical surfaces. Tried drilling near vertical holes on vertical wooden areas product leaked through damaged wood, even after several trials with different mix/application times. Easily applied with shringe or brush.
Overland Park, KS
Hard to usein small amounts
I was disappointed that the latest rot fix I bought did not have the spouts and cap that the product had previously. I found it nearly impossible to mix a small amount pouring it from the large open mouth, whereas it's a piece of cake with the old spouts. I have neither the time nor inclination to be messing around cleaning out the measuring bottle every time I use the product which is often but in small amounts. Otherwise the product satisfactory. I would recommend putting the spout caps back on the bottles and including the mixing bottle as well for those who might want to use it.
Thorny Seiler World Class Yacht Carpentr
Way too much work for meager results.
They lost me when they (the factory) told me to 'excavate' out all the rot and then drill holes and place their special 'capsules' into the holes to prevent further rot. Then paint on their product and wait for it to dry. Then mix powder and liquid together.......Git-Rot is so much easier to use and has remarkable strength. I'll stick with Git-Rot.
I recently used this product for the first time as a replacement for GitRot. I really like the pre-calibrated mixing bottle that is included. As long as you rinse it out with alcohol or white vinegar and water, it can be re-used over and over.I had a large area of mahogany plywood dry rot that was hidden below the surface and I didn't want to lose the exterior contour by digging it all out. I followed the advice on the carton and drilled a pattern of small holes around the affected area; then squirted in some RotFix. The liquid is low-viscosity and seeps rapidly into these holes; thoroughly saturating the damaged wood (just make sure gravity is working for you). You'll probalby need a few applications to get at everything.After the final coat has set-up, use SculpWood or any other epoxy product and filler to finish off the job. Naturally, the best method is to remove all the dry rot and scarf in a new piece but still use the RotFix to seal the old wood pores.